Gosainkund & Helambu – day 3

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Gosankund 4380m – Gopte 3439m

My toughest day in the Himalaya 2014. Up and over the Lauribina Pass 4,610m.

I’d not slept well, getting out of bed 4 times during the night to check the auspicious full moon over sacred Gossankund lake.

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In fact, myself and an Israeli guy had hoped to (early morning) follow a guided group up the popular trekking peak called Surya (Sun) 5145m.

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He was worried that no guided groups were scheduled. And he was right. Later we learned that there is too much snow and ice at the top. Guides were not going up right now.

First light a chopper landed.

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They were evacuating a lady, altitude sick. She looked in rough shape. Could barely walk.

Cost would be something under $10,000. Hopefully paid by insurance.

The chopper crew all rushed to Gosainkund to collect holy water and take selfies. It was this water that Shiva once drank to quench his thirst after having been poisoned.

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So … instead of an extra day scrambling Surya, I headed towards the Pass with everyone else.

There are 108 lakes in this area, actually. You pass a series of them on the trail. They should be frozen by now, but are not.

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For some reason I found this day very, very tough. The Pass was fine. But the long descent to Gopte was taxing.

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On the bright side, I saw a rarely spotted Red Panda en route. Surprising him on the trail itself, he jumped uphill instantly. Then, happily for me, dashed back across the trail downhill. It’s a tiny beast with a huge, unmistakable tail. Two distinct colours.

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But I was a bit of a wreck arriving Gopte 3439m, early in the afternoon.

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I went straight to bed in order to prevent chills.

Happily, I awoke just in time for one of the best and strangest sunsets. People compared this sunset with the best they’d ever seen.

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My preference is to eat as late as possible. This evening, however, chatting with an adventurous couple from Rocky Mountain House, I waited too long. The kitchen shut down about 8pm.

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I begged a chance to join in the Dal Baht feed with the porters and guides, only the second time I’ve ever got the chance to eat with them. It’s not done in the Himalaya. 🙂

see all my high resolution photos from this day

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info | … Langtang

November 21, 2014November 14, 2014

I saw a Red Panda

About an hour down from Gopte 3439m, on the Helambu Trail in Nepal. 🙂

The red panda (Ailurus fulgens), also called lesser panda and red cat-bear, is a small arboreal mammal native to the eastern Himalayas and south-western China that has been classified as vulnerable by IUCN as its wild population is estimated at less than 10,000 mature individuals. The population continues to decline and is threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, poaching, and inbreeding depression …

The red panda is slightly larger than a domestic cat. It has reddish-brown fur, a long, shaggy tail, and a waddling gait due to its shorter front legs. It feeds mainly on bamboo, but is omnivorous and also eats eggs, birds, insects, and small mammals. It is a solitary animal, mainly active from dusk to dawn, and is largely sedentary during the day. …

I saw mine in the middle of the day. I surprised it, walking up the trail quietly.

It dashed uphill, instantly out of sight. Then sprinted back across the trail downhill. It looked tiny. Mostly tail. Two distinct colours.

November 17, 2014November 20, 2014

Langtang Trek – day 5

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Nov 2, 2014

Kyanjin Gompa 3830m – Langshisha Kharka 4110m

Another classic, perfect November day in the high Nepali Himalaya. Blue sky. Bright sun.

I departed Kyanjin Gompa late. As usual.

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Today I would walk as far up the river as possible. Then camp. Only idiots carry their own tents on a Nepali Teahouse trek. I’m one of those idiots.

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Past Kyanjin Gompa there are no houses. No people. Nothing but Yaks. If I wasn’t so hair impaired, I’d swear the Yak is my spirit animal.

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It’s rugged, varied, interesting trekking.

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There are plenty of birds up high. The Golden Eagle looks to take smaller birds on the wing.

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Cake for lunch. Kyanjin Gompa has two bakeries.

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My friends headed back to town. They were saving their legs for an attempt on an even more difficult trekking peak, Tsergo Ri 4984m, next day.

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Most Langtang day hikers stop here at Numthang viewpoint 3940m. To go further is a minimum 1hr, one way commitment including a climb over the big moraine wall on the left.

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I continued up valley.

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Over the moraine, the river valley winds around left presenting a completely new (bleaker) vista. Looking to Tibet.

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This was my favourite part of the hike, so far.

The Yaks get even hairier up high.

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This was as far as I got. In the distance is the source of the Langtang, close to Morimoto Base Camp.

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Perhaps I should have spent an extra day up here. Check a 2009 photo of Morimoto.

Earlier today, my friends caught a glimpse of some kind of wild dog. This scat is from some sort of carnivore beastie. There are no domestic dogs in the high Langtang.

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Finally I set up my little tent in this seasonal Yak herders hut overlooking tomorrow’s adventure, a day hike up towards Tilman Pass the other side of the river.

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A friendly Japanese expedition had already claimed the best tent site, nearby. They would head to Motomoto on the morrow.

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I was ready for a cold, but moonlit, night.

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Just at dusk I saw some grazing animals high above the Yaks. I hope these are Thar.

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Last light on Mt. Urkinmang. (Have I got the correct mountain?)

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Tilman Pass is just to the right of that perfect snowy triangle. I believe.

As always at dusk, Yaks come to check if you’ve left anything edible outside.

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TheSnowLeopard During the long, cold night in a cocoon of down and nylon, I listened to one of my favourite authors, Peter Matthiessen, read one of my favourite books, The Snow Leopard.

It’s his classic philosophical account of a November 1973 Nepal trek to Shey Gompa, Crystal Mountain.

If you wonder why I keep returning to Nepal, read Snow Leopard. Matthiessen is most eloquent on the joys and challenges.

Matthiessen had boots that were too small. A leaky tent. And no audio books to enliven the 12hr nights.

My 57th birthday. Under the Himalayan sky.

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see all my high res photos from this day

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | day 8 | info | … Gosainkund

November 16, 2014November 20, 2014

Langtang Trek – day 4

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Langtang Village 3430m to Kyanjin Gompa 3830m

We stayed at the Tibet Hotel in Langtang. But all teahouses in any given location are near identical. It really doesn’t matter which one you choose. Cost and quality are the same.

As usual, I waited until the mob of trekkers, porters, pack animals and guides cleared out of the village. The last thing I want trekking in the Himalaya is rush hour.

I sipped milk coffee and enjoyed the morning sun waiting for trails to clear.

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These Himalayan villages are interesting. Especially after the tourists have disappeared in the morning.

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The stupendous wide Langtang valley runs east-west, parallel to the Tibet border, enjoying a lot of sun.

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A highlight for me are the many different grazing animals, especially the Yaks.

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Long, long mani walls and many stupas remind you that this is Buddhist Tibet not Hindu Nepal.

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In 2014 another one of these superb bridges was completed.

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Kyanjin Gompa. End of the line for many Langtang trekkers.

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I caught up with my group for lunch. Egg noodle soup with extra egg and egg noodle chowmein.

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No meat is sold in Langtang valley. The chickens are here strictly for eggs. Yaks strictly for milk and cheese.

Up, up, up right after lunch.

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We would “sleep low, climb high”. Acclimatization paramount.

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There are stupendous views looking towards Tibet. Monstrous glaciers.

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Kevin and Delphine with their guide BJ. He led my Manaslu Circuit trek last year. And I hope to trek with him again in future.

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We could have stopped here at the first viewpoint. But the ridge walk up was too tempting.

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Vistas got better and better.

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Photos give you just a hint of the magic of the Himalayan light. You feel you can touch the highest mountains in the world, the relief and contrast so striking.

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About 45min up from the first prayer flags we reached the summit of Kyanjin Ri at 4850m. I left a Summit Stone.

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Prayer flags are believed to have originated with Bon, which predated Buddhism in Tibet.

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BJ knew a different and easier way down. We descended via this sandy watercourse.

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That night we learned a guy at our lodge on his own had tried a different descent on Kyanjin Ri, getting lost. Sometimes it’s nice to have a guide. 🙂

On the return we visited Kyanjin Gompa itself, sadly now disused. The monks long gone. Only about 3 times a year do some return for festivals.

An elderly woman unlocked it for a donation.

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I was more interested in the food and fuel being stored away for the coming winter.

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By dinner we were tired and had slight headaches. It had been a big day for altitude. Perhaps we pushed it too high. Some on our exact same itinerary were down, altitude sick.

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The night sky was fantastic.

see all my high res photos from this day

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | day 8 | info | … Gosainkund

October 26, 2014

When They Brought These Wolves Into The Park, They Had No Idea This Would Happen

A clickbait title if ever there was one. It’s worth it, in this case. 🙂
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

October 16, 2014November 17, 2014

Simien Traverse, Ethiopia

I’m hoping to do the famed Simien Traverse in early December 2014. I’ll be in country Dec 1-14th. It’s the best hike in Ethiopia, one of the best in the world.

Click PLAY or watch a some highlights from a 2014 trek on YouTube. It looks spectacular. Scenery and wildlife. Especially the Gelada Baboons.

I’m using the most recent Lonely Planet Ethiopia to start my research.

I plan to fly Addis Ababa to Gondor, buying my ticket when I get to Ethiopia. Spend at least one night in Gondor, acclimatizing, before traveling about 2hrs north to Debark.

The Simien Park Hotel in Debark is reputed to have hot water showers. One night there while I organize my adventure at the National Park Office.

I’m hoping to either join a group headed up or to hire the minimum for a solo trek. That’s one ‘Scout’ (armed park ranger) and one English speaking guide.

No mules. No cook.

The most popular route is 4-5 days to Geech or Chenek and back. I’ll not summit Ras Dashen, the highest peak in Ethiopia.

Leave a comment if you’ve done this trek.

September 25, 2014September 22, 2014

Colca Canyon, Peru

We’ve moved and updated our Colca information page. 🙂

A trip to Colca Canyon is recommended for all hikers, regardless of ability and experience. It offers superb day hiking and immensely popular 2-day trips.

Hard core hikers will love a unique 5-day option descending into the canyon then climbing up over a snowy 5100m (16,732ft) pass to the remote and rarely visited Valley of the Volcanos — weird cones & lava formations!