Gosainkund & Helambu – day 5

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Mangengoth 3420m – Chisapani 2165

Though I struggled to wake in time, I did walk back up to the Green View viewpoint for dawn.



This morning the teahouse owner led the trip up to point out all the mountains from Annapurna to Everest. In fact, this might be the very best of many famed Himalayan viewpoint hills.


This same owner told the story of a big stupa near Phedi. One like this.


He’d been commissioned to build it in 1992 by the family of a young Japanese man who’d been killed when a Thai Airlines plane crashed into the mountain.

I talked most to 3 young Germans just starting their adventure, hiking the opposite direction. (The wrong way.)


One keener was planning to cycle from Munich to the Rio Olympics.

This day I got on the trail as quickly as possible. I had a long, long way to go to get to the famed viewpoint of Chisapani, a hill station popular with residents of Kathmandu.

It looked pretty easy on the map. Long but mostly downhill. Unfortunately Nepali down = equal ups and downs.



Quite quickly I was back in summer. Rice was still being harvested!




The ridge walk went on and on.


I stopped only twice this day, once here for lunch.


My dogs were barking.

Down. Down.


The sun was failing. I was worried. Late in the afternoon there’s nobody left on the trail.


Exhausted, I finally stumbled up hill in the dark to the relatively luxurious lodges of Chisapani 2165m. You should never hike the Himalayas in the dark. I’d done it 3 times so far this trip!


see all my high resolution photos from this day

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info | … Langtang

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