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One of the best hikes in the world

Juan de Fuca Marine Trail

The West Coast Trail is the best hike in the world. Right?

But we recommend neighbouring Juan de Fuca precisely because it is not the WCT. 😎

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. Be ready for serious rain.

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AT A GLANCE

it’s the West Coast Trail ‘alternative’ that does not co$t.
coastal hike of 47km (29mi) sharing one of the WCT trailheads – Port Renfrew
no reservations needed
no quota on number of hikers
you can hike Juan de Fuca year round, weather permitting, while the full WCT is only open 5 months a year
May to October are the best months
we like August and early September best of all
off-season is very cold and rainy

map JdF

Why We Like This Hike

it is easily hiked in segments, unlike the WCT
bald eagles, herons and other coastal birds
we’ve seen whales, sea lions, bears and even a cougar dashing across highway 14

bear-juan-de-fuca

this is a good hike for those who have not done much multi-day hiking
good tent pads, far dryer 🙂 than on the West Coast Trail
fascinating tidal pools at Botanical Beach and elsewhere
pretty sea stacks and other fascinating coastal geology
campfires allowed below tide line and in some campsite fire rings
gorgeous sunsets
leashed dogs allowed
no biting insects
it’s fairly new, opened April 1, 1996

If you love big trees, save time for:

Red Creek fir – world’s largest Douglas fir
San Juan Spruce, Canada’s largest Sitka spruce
Avatar Grove and Canada’s “gnarliest tree.”

Considerations

Critical on this hike: sections of the trail are impassable at high tide. Carry tide tables and check maps posted at each trailhead. Remember to add one hour to the listed tidal times during May to October as Daylight Savings Time is in effect.

Impassable sections at some high tides include:

1. Bear Beach east (west of Rosemond Creek): 8.7 km
2. Chin Beach east: 20.6 km
3. Chin Beach west: 21.3 km
4. Sombrio Beach east: 28 km
5. Sombrio Beach west: 29.6 km
6. West of West Sombrio Bluff: 30.2 km

extreme climbs and descents if you hit the tides wrong
tides can trap you in the wrong place (we waded thigh deep at one point — very dangerous!)
rogue waves can knock an inattentive hiker into the sea
risks of both hypothermia and heat stroke
Emergency phone number is 911. (Unlike the WCT where you should not call 911.)
some mobile phones work some of the time
creek crossings are normally no problem
very muddy in spots
bear-proof food caches available at Little Kuitsche Creek and Payzant Creek. Perhaps other campsites, as well.
you must carry your own pack
gas camp stoves for cooking
pit toilets are available at the campsites
drinking water must be treated (it’s tannin coloured in places)
miserably exposed to the Pacific, rain and wind is the norm. You need a good tent and tie-downs.
small cabin at km20.5 for emergency use only
summer highs around 14C (57F)
this track has many harmless garter snakes not seen on the WCT
bring rope to hang food from a tree or bear pole each night
Juan de Fuca has very little old growth forest compared with the WCT
you must share the trail with day-hikers, dogs, kids, surfers, and bikini-clad sunbathers. You enjoy much more solitude on the West Coast Trail.

Cost

Camping permit 2020 = C$10.00 per person / night ($5 for children 6 – 15)

parking fee of $5 / vehicle at some lots
exact amount of Canadian currency into self-registration envelopes at the trailheads

Routes

coastal hike of 47km (29mi)
we recommend 5 days, 4 nights on the trail for an optimal experience. But you can easily vary the route for shorter hikes, if you are short on time.
we prefer to start at Port Renfrew (Botanical Bay) and hike towards Jordan River (China Beach)

There are 4 main access points and more possible campsites:

all campsites are first-come, first-served except for China Beach

We would not bother making a reservation for China Beach. But if you are interested, check:

BC Parks Campsites Available at China Beach
… or, phone 1-800-689-9025 (604-689-9025 in Greater Vancouver)

decide as you go where you want to camp. An “open” itinerary is best.
often you can choose between an inland path or a coastal route. The coast is almost always better.
you need study a tide chart to plot your best itinerary, hitting specific points at low tide
it’s possible to thru hike Juan de Fuca and the West Coast Trail with a resupply in Port Renfrew

Though Juan de Fuca is always referred to as “easier than the West Coast Trail“, don’t be complacent. Footing can be treacherous. Bear Beach to Chin beach can be as challenging as anything on the WCT.

Gladly, if you have problems it is easier to escape Juan de Fuca. Several emergency trails lead up to the highway. (On the WCT you would be stuck.)

Trekking Guides

Almost everyone hikes Juan de Fuca independently.

Logistics

easy access from Victoria, B.C., a lovely tourist destination
travel by personal vehicle to one of the trailheads, or book with the convenient West Coast Trail Express bus. (If you book a return fare, this company will store your excess luggage until you finish the hike. They also rent gear.)
do some research if you want to park a car en route. Vandalism is not uncommon.
Sooke RCMP (police) 250-642-5241
many hikers park a vehicle at the start, then catch the hiker’s shuttle bus back once they finish
start the hike from either end, or either of the access points in between. You have many options.
highway 14 connects all 4 trailheads. It is clearly signed.

Local Information

BC Parks – Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
MB Guiding – Juan de Fuca
Victoria Club Tread – Juan de Fuca Provincial Park

Best Trekking Guidebooks

Philip Stone’s book is best in 2020. Digital edition available.:

Coastal Hikes

Others:

Giant Cedars, White Sands. Juan de Fuca Marine Trail – Donald Mills
Juan de Fuca Hiking Guide (digital $5) – Pure Outside
Hiking The West Coast Of Vancouver Island – Tim Leadem, 2005
Juan de Fuca Marine Trail – Payne & Vasilevich, 1998

Payne’s book has errors and is out-of-date but is still worth carrying on the trip. It’s small and includes some interesting background detail. The Pure Outside digital resource is most up-to-date.

Best Travel Guidebooks

Lonely Planet – British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies

Other Recommended Books

Hiking on the Edge (2002) – Ian Gill, a charming travelogue with wonderful photos
Plants of the West Coast Trail – Collin Varner
Soaring with the Eagles on Canada’s West Coast Trail – Al Brawn
Back Country Bear Basics – David Smith
Timeless Shore

Best Maps

A good paper map is included with Giant Cedars, White Sands (1:50,000). You can buy the map separately, but that would be crazy. Get both.

Online

B.C. Parks – official map

Best Web Pages

Outdoor Vancouver – Juan de Luca
Stingy Nomads – Juan de Fuca Trail
Offtrack Travel – Juan de Fuca Trail
BC Parks – Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
wikipedia – Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
wikitravel – Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
Giant Cedars, White Sands: Juan de Fuca Marine Trail Guidebook
Club Tread Juan de Fuca – local hiking club
JuanDeFucaMarineTrail.com
Juan de Fuca Marine Trail – Sooke Outdoors
West Coast Trail Express – trailhead shuttle bus
TrailPeak.com – Juan de Fuca
Bear Safety

Best Trip Reports

Matthew Lettington – Canada Day Long Weekend (2014) – muddy!
Brian Payton – Hiking in the Mist
Just Ambling (2014)
Jenny Strong (2012)
Henry Armitage (2011)
Traveling Canucks (2010)
Dan Durston (2009)
Kevin Gong trip report and photos – 2005
Stephen and Carol trip report
Sooke Harbour
CanadaTrails.ca trip report
Ray Siemens trip report – April, 1998

Movies

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. (2020)