World → South America → Patagonian Andes → Argentina → Nahuel Huapi

One of the best hikes in the world

Nahuel Huapi Traverse

One of the most physically challenging of our best hikes in the world.

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AT A GLANCE

high level ridge walking with scrambles. Some exposure. And route finding unless you have a GPS track to follow.
Nahuel Huapi is pronounced nah-well-wah-pee
translates as “island of the jaguar” from the native Mapuche people
December to March are the best months
Nahuel Huapi National Park is the oldest in Argentina
the tourist mecca jumping off point of San Carlos de Bariloche is a transportation hub
convenient city bus service whisks you 20km from Bariloche to the trailhead at Villa Catedral, a popular ski resort
Villa Catedral to Puente Lopez is only 36.5km (23mi) but they are some of the most difficult trails you’ve hiked
it’s easy to shorten this 4 day adventure by exiting early down a number of different valleys

Why We Like This Hike

craggy peaks
stunning alpine lakes. About 20% of the Park is covered with water.
highlight sections are on high ridges with fantastic views
easy access
sleeping in alpine refugios is an option
eating in the refugios is another option
altitude sickness is not a concern. (max. elevation 2060m)
the days are long in Patagonia during their summer
you can hike nearby Tronador to Otto Meiling on the same Bariloche trip
astounding views of Volcán Puntiagudo (2,493m) across the border in Chile

Considerations

much of this adventure is a route, not a trail
you spend a lot of time looking for the next paint splash
long, steep, dangerous descents through scree and/or unstable boulders
most of the trail is above the tree-line. There’s not much protection from sun, wind and weather.
very little water on the high ridges
speak conversational Spanish if you want to do the trek on your own
July 2017 Refugio Jakob was destroyed by fire. A new building was well underway when we were there February 2018.
refuges are open between October/Novermber to April aside from Refugio Frey which is open year round
snow on the high passes lasts into late November and sometimes into December
you are unlikely to see any mosquitoes, but annoying Andean horse-flies (called los tábanos) may be a pest

Cost

if you tent and cook your own food, there are no costs on the Traverse
it’s easy to spend money if you decide to sleep, eat or drink at the refugios
the bus to and from Bariloche costs a couple of dollars
if you opt to take the lift at Catedral ski resort — Amancay to Dientes de Caballo — the cost was $24 in 2018

Trekking Guides

The easiest and safest way to do the Nahuel Huapi Traverse is with an adventure travel company:

Swoop Patagonia (Traverse to Pampa Linda)

We’d recommend, however, you hike these mountains on your own. There’s no need to hire a guide for a trek accessed by city bus unless you need help on the day 3 climb.

Logistics

This section is for those who would like to do the Nahuel Huapi Traverse independently.

We recommend you sleep in a tent rather than the refuges as they are somewhat crowded, noisy and dirty during high season. Treat all water unless you see it coming out of the mountain high up.

Getting organized for this adventure is fairly easy for the Andes, but there is one likely roadblock. You MUST have a reservation to tent at Frey. It’s usually booked with rock climbers during high season. Assuming you won’t be able to get a reservation, our recommended route suggests an alternative. Instead of going to Frey on the first night, camp close to a place called Cascada Rucaca (day 2) on the map below.

San Carlos de Bariloche is the jumping off point. It’s a climbing, hiking and snow sports mecca.
Bariloche has plenty of tourist accommodations at every price point including dozens of hostels
check in at the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) Mountain Info Center in central Bariloche for advice and recent updates on the trail.
Carrefour is the biggest and best supermarket we found
many outdoors shops are available for last minute gear. Prices are HIGH.
all kinds of camping fuel are available. Try Patagonia Anglers, 205 Moreno street. They have maps, as well.
bus #55 runs hourly during the hiking season from Bariloche to Villa Catedral Ski Resort parking lot. It may be signed “Cerro Catedral” or “Catedral” rather than #55. Ask at tourist information where to catch #55 as it takes two different routes heading out of town.

Free and compulsory registration should be completed each time you go treking in the Nahuel National Park

- write down your intended route (you do not have to stick to it)
- register in person in Bariloche at either National Park Office or the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) Mountain Info Center

- Alternatively you can fill out the confusing form online:
  http://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/intro_registro.html — scroll to the bottom of that page and click the “I’ve read the recommendations” link

Routes

From Bariloche there are two #55 buses taking two different routes to the ski resort. Check with locals to see where to catch the correct bus.

Two choices to start your trek up to Frey:

1. Ski lift – Amancay to Dientes de Caballo

2. Walk Arroyo Van Titter

(Early in the season the high route via the ski lift may be impassable due to snow and ice. Check with CAB in Bariloche to confirm.)

The classic (difficult) Traverse has you sleeping 4 nights in the mountains. No reservation for tenting is required except at Frey

Refugio Frey (alternative Cascada if Frey is booked)
Refugio San Martin (Jakob)
Refugio Segre (Italia)
Refugio López

Unless you are exhausted, there’s no need to stop at López. It’s only 3.5km to the highway bus stop near Puente López, walking distance from the town of Colonia Suiza.

You may need to wait an hour or two for the bus back to Bariloche. Check at the Puente López food kiosk on your arrival at the highway.

From Frey, San Martin and Segre there are easier exits (escapes) down green valleys in case of bad weather, fatigue or injury.

Local Information

Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) Mountain Info Center
Nahuel Huapi National Park Office

Best Trekking Guidebooks

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes (out of print)
- Nahuel Huapi Traverse PDF
Las Montañas de Bariloche by Raul Izaguirre (Spanish) 1996 might be available in town

We LOVE that 2003 L.P. guidebook. But certainly wish LP would update.

Best Travel Guidebooks

Lonely Planet Argentina … or buy just the chapters you need in digital format

Best Maps

ask at Club Andino Bariloche what map they recommend. There are several available.
some hikers with maps felt they did not have enough detail. A GPS track would be better.