World → Asia → Nepal → Mardi Himal

UPDATE. As of April 1, 2023 the Nepal government required that major treks can no longer be done independently. Hiring a guide is mandatory. The obvious alternative is the Indian Himalaya.

High altitude trekking is dangerous – Oct 2014 Nepal snowstorm disaster

Mardi Himal

Hikes often done just prior (for acclimatization to altitude) include:

- Poon Hill
- Annapurna Panorama Trek
- Annapurna Sanctuary (Annapurna Base Camp)

close-up views of Fishtail (Machapuchare)

AT A GLANCE

Most hikers think of Kathmandu and Everest when they hear the word Nepal, but Annapurna (close to Pokhara) has been a more popular destination.

Mardi Himal, an alternative to the Annapurna Circuit is getting increasingly popular. It officially opened 2012.
it’s a short, scenic up-and-back trek for which you should already be acclimatized
ridge walk, great views
few villages, more wilderness
Oct – Nov best months
Mar – May next best
4 days recommended. Total distance about 40km / 25mi depending on start and finish points. Elevation gain about 3274m.
highest point is Mardi Himal Base Camp 4500m

ACAP permit, TIMS card required
many hire a guide, porter(s) and/or pack animal(s) but it’s easy to do independently if you are acclimatized
independent hikers buy food as they go and stay in simple lodges
the Annapurna region is inexpensive, but more expensive than in the past. Many hikers run out of cash. Budget at least $30 / day / person and carry more for emergencies.
be clear — you might have to QUIT if you suffer altitude sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS).
wifi and electricity available at most guest houses, sometimes at no extra cost

Why We Like This Hike

The Annapurna massif has one peak over 8,000m (26,000 ft), thirteen peaks over 7,000m (23,000 ft), and sixteen more over 6,000m (20,000 ft). It’s 55km (34 mi) long.

An amazing part of the world.

you walk from lush sub-tropic to high altitude
less crowded than other Annapurna trails
new airport will be opening in Pokhara 2021. Easier access.

very little gear is needed
you can easily get pack weight down to 10kg (22lbs)
walk with no tent and little food.
safe and easy to hike solo
no need to speak Nepali, only English
food is good and quite safe (compared with Kathmandu)
lodges are fairly new built. Many have gas showers and lights provided by solar power.
the mountain culture is lovely but this particular route goes through fewer village than most other Nepal hikes

Considerations

for sure the worst thing about Himalayan treks is getting to and from the trailheads. Local buses, shared jeeps and private vehicles are all slow. The roads terrible and often dangerous. Best of bad options, for us, is paying for an expensive regular taxi at the start. Taking the inexpensive local bus on the return.
independent hikers need to manage their own health and medical issues. Bring a first aid kit.
you MUST bring footwear you love and trust. Almost everyone brings walking shoes as well as guest house shoes for the evening.
some buy Diamox in Nepal. It’s called Diamox Sequels in the USA.
some even carry a course of antibiotics, just in case
Dengue Fever reached Nepal 2004. Cases increasing ever since. Tourists advised to avoid mosquito bites.

Waterborne diseases are a big concern in Nepal. Treat water. Don’t trust that water used in restaurants is safe. If worried, order a “sizzler“. Your meal arrives very hot, covered with gravy, sometimes in flame. Order vegetable. Meat cannot always be stored safely before cooking. Refrigeration in Nepal is compromised by electricity cuts.

both men and women are advised to wear modest clothing respecting local culture
sunglasses / eye protection needed

Please do not buy bottled water on the trek
mobile phone service access rapidly improving. Get a SIM card from Nepal Telecom Namaste. Data inexpensive.
“squater” pit toilets wer the norm but western sit-down toilets are increasingly available. Bring your own toilet paper.
bring a tiny combination padlock for your door in lodges

Cost

Visa on arrival for most nations at Tribhuvan International, Kathmandu in 2019:

Multiple entry 15 days US$ 30
Multiple entry 30 days US$ 50
Multiple entry 90 days US$ 125

You can pay with credit card or other major currencies. The visa on arrival process is much faster and simpler than in the past. No need to bring passport photos as machines now take your mugshot photo.

In 2019 while on the trail we spent about $30 / day. No alcohol.

You might budget $40 / day / person to be on the safe side.

Very frugal hikers might average $20 / day.

Costs for bed and food tend to increase the further you hike from a road.

Carry more cash than you need for your planned trip in case of emergency. Bring Nepalese rupees. It’s a cash economy in the mountains.

In 2019 the most we could take out of a bank machine at one time in Pokhara was 35000 NPR (about $300). We used Nabil Bank machines withdrawing directly from our bank cards, not credit card, to reduce the transaction fee cost and avoid interest.

Independents need to buy their own hiking permits for Mardi Himal:

2019 $20 (NPR 2,000) / person TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card.
2019 $30 (NPR 3,000)/ person Annapurna Conservation Area Park (ACAP) permit – single entry

It’s easiest to purchase permits in advance of your hike:

Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu
Nepal Tourism Board in Pokhara (faster, easier)

In the past you needed to bring passport photos. In 2019 those offices take your photo while there. No cost.

Evacuation by helicopter is expensive. Payment must be guaranteed in advance. Bring your credit card, just in case.

Consider purchasing good insurance coverage for this trip. World Nomads, for example, offers policies covering hikers up to 3000m, 4500m or 6000m.

In 2019 we bought 30 day visas for Nepal. And World Nomads insurance for those same 30 days.

In 2018 Chase spent $213 including permits & transport to and from Pokhara.

Routes

Stingy Nomads lays out the options for you.

One itinerary they recommend:

Ghandruk to Forest Camp
Forest Camp to High Camp
High Camp to Base Camp back to High Camp
High Camp to to Siding (easier) or Landruk (harder)

Altitude sickness is an important consideration. Do you have enough days to acclimatize?

Popular starting points include Kande, Ghandruk, Landruk.

Popular end points include Sidling and Landruk.

Trekking Guides

This site is mainly for independent trekkers. But if you really want or need a guide compare offers like these:

Discovery World Trekking
Kimkim – Mardi Himal Trek

It is tempting to sign on with an organized international tour from abroad.

Talking to tour group hikers on the trail, however, a good percentage once there wish they had done it on their own. There are a number of downsides to being locked into the group itinerary.

If you wait until you arrive Nepal there are dozens of local companies eager to sign you on. Some are great, others less reliable. We would join up only with a company for which we had personal references.

wikitravel:

Only TAAN registered trekking agencies in Kathmandu and Pokhara can legally organize treks and provide the services of a guide and/or porter with insurance. Be aware that no one else, no hotel, no street broker, no nice person you just met, not even a trekking guide is legally authorized to organize a trek. During the main seasons the agencies run regular group treks, both tea-house and camping styles …

If you do not sign on with a tour, you can still hire your own local guide or porter at any village or lodge en route. We like this option better.

A guide will show you the way, but not carry your gear. They may be Nepali or foreign. Many hikers are happier to be led — though you certainly can do this hike on your own without a guide. A good guide may enrich the trip for you.

A porter guide from the Trekking Workers’ Association of Nepal is a local who speaks English who may also carry a limited load, perhaps 15kg (33lbs). You can hire a porter guide if and when you need one on the trail for something like US$20 / day plus tip (2019). There is often an insurance fee added.

Check the website of one such porter guide to give you an idea of how it works – Devendra Pun.

Certainly, trekkers regularly have trouble with guides:

some can be insistent on where they want you to stop each night. This sometimes leads to conflict.
they ask for more money, or gear they “forgot” to bring
they may want to change / shorten the itinerary
they may ask you hire an additional porter once you get on the trail

Logistics

Most international hikers arrive via Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathamandu. It’s not very good.

Due to severe traffic congestion and the airport running out of its maximum capacity, the government of Nepal decided to construct more international airports, notably, Nijgadh International Airport, Pokhara International Airport and Gautam Buddha Airport.

In 2019 we flew into Kathmandu. Walked over to the domestic terminal. And flew on to Pokhara skipping Kathmandu altogether. Sit on the right (mountain side of the plane) for excellent views.

If you sign on with a guided trip, logistics will be organized for you. This section is for hikers traveling to Nepal independently.

most hikers buy a tourist visa at the airport
a couple of days sightseeing in Kathmandu or Pokhara is standard while you adjust to the time zone change and while waiting to purchase your trekking permits. Don’t stay too long in polluted Kathmandu city as there’s a chance you’ll get SICK from the air and water.
you can rent or buy gear in Kathmandu or Pokhara if needed, though selection is limited
the best bus Kathmandu – Pokhara is Greenline.
- $25 one way in 2019
- buffet lunch at a riverside resort included
- 6-8 hours depending on traffic

Local Information

In Pokhara there are hundreds of commission touts that will tell you anything you want to hear about Mardi Himal.

Instead, ask at the Nepal Tourism Board in Pokhara where you buy your permits. In fact, the very best source of up-to-date information is to hang out at the office talking to other trekkers. Ask if any have done Mardi Himal.

Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN)

Best Trekking Guidebooks

Check to be sure you’re buying the most recent edition. We normally purchase a paper copy for advanced research at home. And a digital copy for use on the trail.