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One of the best hikes in the world

Villarrica Traverse

You want volcanos? This is the place. 😊

AT A GLANCE

jumping off point is Pucón, 780km south of Santiago
Villarrica, still active, last erupted 1971, almost reaching town
Lanín volcano is highest and most impressive of the group
Traverse is 81km (challenging)
non-stop views of a series of volcanos
lava fields and ash trails
late December to March
recommended 5-6 days
interesting birds, including large woodpeckers
alpine lakes

Why We Like This Hike

stark, weird and beautiful volcanic vistas
mostly above the tree line
monkey puzzle forests

notros – a springtime fire-red flower
easy access out of the adventure tourism mecca of Pucón
Villarrica 2847m is the most climbed volcano in Chile
relatively uncrowded
no risk of altitude sickness
the days are long in Patagonia during their summer — it is light until at least 9pm
no fees for the campsites
hot springs en route
we did see condors … but no indigenous mammals aside from large hares
screeing volcanic ash is FUN
wildflowers in the desert are astonishing

Considerations

Horseflies are numerous and bothersome in January – but we didn’t see many other biting insects. No mosquitoes. And only a few sand flies.

Called the Tábano by locals, these guys could ruin your entire hike. 😟

They don’t actually bite very successfully. Covering up and wearing headphones reduced the annoyance considerably.

finding clean drinking water is a challenge. Carry at least 4 litres capacity.
plan for terrible weather — rain, sleet, even snow is possible
snow field crossings

tent & camp stove essential
no toilets at the wild camps
the “Puelche”, a strong wind from Argentina, could blow you off the mountain
burrs cling on to your clothing at lower elevations

Cost

Chile is one of the most expensive countries to travel in South America. Budget a minimum of US$40 a day. Days on the trek will save you money.
In 2016 the cost for the Traverse was Ch$5000 for Chileans or Ch$7000 (about $10) for foreigners
Back country campsites are free. Those near roadways may charge 3-4000 pesos / person / per night.

Routes

In fact, the Traverse is two hikes separated by a road walk. There’s no need or reason to do the two hikes connected. Both are great. But if you only have time for one or the other, pick the second half.

The first half is best hiked from the ski resort as you start high, finish low. That’s about 29kms from road to road. Possible as a day hike. But challenging.

The second half could be hiked in either direction.

Trekking Guides

Travel Aid out of Pucón

Logistics

Most arrive from and depart to Pucón. Wait on good weather. There’s no use slogging through fog on the volcanos.

To do the full Traverse, ask at Tourist Information how to get to the Ski Center on Volcano Villarrica. There will likely be no public transit so you’ll need to hire a cab. Or hitchhike.

From the highway the road to the volcano is paved for the first two kilometers then becomes rough gravel. At 9km check in with Conaf. Register and pay your entry fee. A cab will possibly take you only this far.

There are 8 more kms to the Ski Center where you start. Try to hitch a lift to the top.

It’s not difficult to find the trailhead. From there, follow the stakes. Simple.

At the end of the first half you’ll reach a second Conaf building. From there you could walk about 7km of road to Palguin hot springs, an alternate entrance/exit. Especially if the weather turned bad.

Or you could detour there for a wash and restaurant meal as we did.

Otherwise, take the steep climb up from Conaf and regain the Traverse. To the end. The paved roadway – International Pass Mamuil Malal or Tromen. Here you can try to hitchhike or walk 3,4 kilometers to Puesco where there is another Conaf office. Regular local buses can return you to Pucón from there.

You could keep hiking. Google the “Momolluco” Trail and “Lagos Andinos” Trail.

Local Information

Conaf (Corporación Nacional Forestal) is responsible for Parks in Chile. Spanish.

Best Trekking Guidebooks

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes 2009 does include this route. While not perfect, it’s the english language guide we used. Unfortunately it’s not available for sale online – not even in digital format.
- - LP Villarrica Traverse PDF
Trekking por Chile 40 Rutas 2015 (Spanish) … widely available in Chilean bookstores does include the Traverse.

Best Travel Guidebooks

Lonely Planet Chile (get the most up-to-date edition)

Related Books

Enduring Patagonia – Gregory Crouch

Crouch is ideal reading when tentbound due to weather. 🙂

In Patagonia – Bruce Chatwin
Baja to Patagonia – Larry Rice
Nowhere Is a Place: Travels in Patagonia – Bruce Chatwin, Paul Theroux, Jeff Gnass
Patagonia: Wild Land At The End Of The Earth – Tim Hauf, Conger, Jr. Beasley, Gregory Crouch

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Central Andes 2003

Best Maps

la cumbre

While a map is not essential, we wished we had one for better calculating distances, times … and possible escape routes.

Best Web Pages

wikiexplora – Villarrica Traverse
Travel Aid – 1st half – Ski Center to Chinay
Travel Aid – 2nd half – Chinay to highway
Trek Bariloche

Best Trip Reports

besthike editor Rick McCharles – Jan 2016
Chris Vervaeke – Hiking the Villarrica Traverse 2015 (last half)

Click PLAY or watch a 2019 Traverse on YouTube.

Click PLAY or watch a Traverse on YouTube.

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