World → Europe → Iceland → Laugavegur
One of the best hikes in the world is the
(Landmannalaugar to Skógar route)
AT A GLANCE
- Iceland‘s best hike
- weird and wonderful landscapes
- best route is Landmannalaugar – Skógar 77km (48mi) in 3-6 days in either direction. That’s combining the Laugavegur 55km (34mi) with the Fimmvörðuháls route.
- high water can stop hikers (and vehicles). Bring shoes for river crossing.
- sleep in huts or tent
- permits not required
- steep rough, rocky and slippery slopes. Snow, sleet, mud likely. Jagged lava fields.
- in perfect weather, this trek is only moderately difficult. The weather is never perfect.
- around 100 hikers start each day during high season July and August
Why We Like This Hike
- gorgeous, astonishing colours
- otherworldly vistas
- hot springs and thermal vents
- NEW (2017) restaurant at the Alftavatn Hut in the middle of the trail
- hut wardens take care of guests and are keen to give information and first aid even to those in tents
- trail is well marked with wooden posts
- logistics are relatively easy
- wonderful day hiking out of Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk
- side trips to climb volcanic features
Click PLAY or watch some drone footage on YouTube.
- be prepared for rain, rain, rain and fog
- non-bridged river crossings
- be prepared for long snow fields. A few days each year they turn to slush.
- hypothermia can kill. Bring proper clothing and waterproofs.
- sudden changes in weather that can occur in any season. heavy winds, dark fog or even snowstorm
- May 1970 three hikers died in a snowstorm on the Fimmvörðuháls section. End of June 2004, hiker Ido Keinan died just one km from the Hrafntinnusker hut.
- be prepared for anything
- there may be swarms of flying insects, though most don’t bite. Normally it’s so windy that the bugs are not a pest.
- tents need to be wind and weatherproof with good tie downs
- a large pack waterproof liner is recommended as is a pack cover that won’t fly off in high wind
- Compass recommended. Maps can be bought in book shops and petrol stations.
- GPS is also recommended in case of zero visibility on the trail. Coordinates can be found at the huts.
- huts usually open around June 25th and close beginning of September. Weather conditions and snow melt can change those dates
- Meals are not available in most huts. But small shops MIGHT be open in high season. Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk are the most developed campsites.
- huts have shared kitchen with stoves, pots, pans and cutlery
- running cold water
- gas heaters, at times
- some offer 4 minute showers for $5
- flush toilets at most campsites
- no pillows, blankets or bed linen available. You need your own sleeping bag.
- those tenting can use most facilities, aside from hut kitchens
- stay on the main trails as much as possible, this landscape is vulnerable to overuse
- obviously, all water sensitive items must be kept in waterproof bags
- if you can handle the weight, bring a tent as a back-up alternative to the huts
- the 2010 eruptions of Eyjafjallajökull disrupted hiking, but everything is back to normal
Laugavegurinn is maintained and serviced by Ferðafélag Íslands (FÍ), the Iceland Touring Association (www.fi.is).
Limited accommodation is offered in huts (reservations necessary) or in campsites (reservations not needed) near the huts. Wild camping is not allowed within the nature reserves.
- hut bunkbeds cost about cost about $80 / person / night (2018)
- tenting outside the huts costs about $20 / person / night (2018)
If there is space in a hut, tenters could grab a spot last minute, payable by credit card or cash.
Bus Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar is about $90 (2018).
Bus Reykjavik to Reykjavik Skógar is about $50 (2018). It a much better and busier road. Some try to hitchhike that section.
Most hikers are coming to and from Reykjavik. Most do a lollypop loop to and from the trailheads.
Most take a bus from Reykjavik to start. Three main choices:
If you have even less time, do just Skógar to Thórsmörk in either direction. That’s the Fimmvörðuháls route. 22km (13.6mi) in 1-2 days, over 1000m elevation change. Though some feel it’s the most challenging section, many do it as a day hike during good weather.
Deciding which direction to hike may depend on your transportation logistics. Easiest place to find a ride is Skógar on the ring road highway, therefore it’s safest to finish there. Bad weather sometimes stops buses from getting to the other two trailheads. ☹️
The bus schedule is posted on the toilet in Skógar if you’ve not written it down in advance.
We like the longest option, taking the bus Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar to start.
If you want to stay in huts, you’ll need to book those well in advance. Here’s one popular itinerary finishing in Thórsmörk:
Day 1: Landmannalaugar – Hrafntinnusker 12km, 4-5hrs
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker – Álftavatn 12km, 4-5hrs
Day 3: Álftavatn – Emstrur (Botnar) 15km, 6-7hrs
Elevation decrease: 40m
Day 4: Emstrur (Botnar) – Thórsmörk 15km, 6-7hrs
From Thórsmörk you can bus out. Or do the extra 1-2 days to Skógar.
Day 5 : Thórsmörk – Fimmvorduhals hut … or on out to Skógar where tenting is available near the highway.
We prefer to tent. That way no reservations are needed. We’ll stop where we want when we want, depending on the weather and our energy level. Allow extra days, just in case. We were held up one day by storm warnings in 2018.
Take the bus back to Reykjavik from Skógar. There’s plenty of traffic on the highway. You may be able to find someone willing to drive stinky hikers back to town. If not, buy a ticket on the bus.
If all that sounds too complicated, consider signing on with a trekking guide.
Many carry very heavy packs on this adventure.
But you can hike with a light day pack if you hire the right guide. They’ll transport your pack day-by-day, hut to hut.
- Icelandic Mountain Guides (expensive)
- Nordic Adventure Travel
- Utivist (72,000 ISK or $540 for 5 days in 2015)
- Iceland Tours
- Volcano Huts (68,500 ISK or $514 for 4- 5 days in 2015)
- Trek Iceland
- Landmannalaugar.net – Laugavegur trekking and Fimmvorduhals
If you’ve signed on with a guide, let them take care of the logistics. This section is for independent hikers.
Flying to and from Iceland in the hiking season has been expensive. But WOW Air started a new discount service, putting pressure on the others.
We recommend tenting and hostels. One cool option is a package with rent-a-car and hostels both included. Decide where to stay as you drive around the island. There is a LOT to do and see in this tourist paradise.
If you are only doing the Laugavegur, however, you won’t need a rental vehicle.
- Ferðafélag Íslands (FÍ), Iceland Touring Association – Laugavegurinn
Best Trekking Guidebooks
- Laugavegurinn – the Laugavegur hiking trail, a booklet by Ferðafélag Íslands, is available in Iceland. And is for sale at each hut. That should be enough for most hikers to survive.
- Cicerone Walking and Trekking in Iceland 2013 by Paddy Dillon
- Iceland – The Southern Highlands by Uwe Grunewald
- The Laugavegur Trail: A Hiking Companion to Iceland’s Famous Trek 2014 by Brian W Zimmer
In 2018 we used the excellent Brian Zimmer book. We downloaded it to phone and read from the Kindle app.
If you are doing more hiking in Iceland, get the Cicerone, a very respected company
Best Travel Guidebooks
Be sure you get the most up-to-date edition.
Other Recommended Books
- Iceland (Insight Guides) 2014
- Top 10 Iceland 2014
- Iceland: Land of the Sagas 1998 by Jon Krakauer and David Roberts
- Landmannalaugar, Porsmork, and Fjallabak Hiking Map by Mal Og Mennig
Best Web Pages
Best Trip Reports
- Northern Adventures – Fimmvörðuháls & Laugavegurinn
- besthike editor Rick McCharles Laugevagur (2018)
- Andrew Skurka – About the Laugavegur
- David Leffman – Extreme hiking in Iceland: the Laugavegur trail 2013
- Without Baggage – Mission Iceland: A Tale of Two Brothers
- The Hiking Life – Skogar-Landmannalauger 2000
- Jennifer Pharr Davis – Dream Trip: Hike Laugavegurinn Trail
Click PLAY or watch Alastair Humphrey’s highlights on Vimeo.
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