They consume up to 150–300 kg (330–660 lbs) of vegetation daily, including grasses, bark, and fruit.
Most memorable was watching elephants give themselves a mud bath.
Around 90% of African elephants have been wiped out in the past century – largely due to the ivory trade – leaving an estimated 415,000 wild elephants alive today.
One ranger I spoke with in Tanzania told me they no longer have any problem with poachers in his National Park.
Nairobi National Park is exceptionally convenient, located just 7–10 km (about a 30-minute drive) south of the city center. I stayed in an Eco Lodge, nearby.
David Sheldrick Trust runs the sanctuary where orphaned and sick animals from all over Kenya can recover. Many are released back into the wild. Some stay — and people can visit. It’s something of a small zoo — but where individual animals have interestingback stories.
For example, this statue commemorates Sebastian the chimpanzee who lived here 1956 – 1996.
I bought a combined ticket to the orphanage and Safari Walk next door.
The Kenya Wildlife Service manages this small zoo displaying the variety of plants and animals that are in Kenya in a more natural setting than the orphanage.
White rhino, big cats, crocodiles, rhinoceros, antelopes, and primates.
People were hand feeding a small giraffe when I was there.
Like any animal prison, it’s not all good here. But thousands of Kenyan children on school field trips visit each week. Learning to value their indigenous wildlife.
Karura Forest is a beautiful green space in Nairobi, Kenya. It is the second largest urban forest in the world after the Tijuca Forest in Rio de Janeiro.
My hostel recommended I hike there.
Karura Waterfall
The 4.3 km Sykes’ Monkey Trail Loop is highly rated (4.8 stars) for its mix of scenery, caves, and rivers.
Mau Mau Caves
The main entrance for easy access to the Waterfall and River Café is Gate A on Kiube Road. Security looked excellent to me. There are guards posted at all gates.
Trails are well maintained. Good bridges. Plenty of benches and picnic tables.
Recreational facilities are included.
Yet it’s a huge park with plenty of space to get away from other people, should you choose.
I was there at the start of the rainy season. First big rain of 2026 left some trails flooded.
Entry Fees (As of 2025/2026): Non-resident adults KES 850, children KES 450; Kenyan citizens pay significantly lower rates (approx. KES 100-200).
Rules: Plastic bottles are prohibited; bring a reusable bottle. No fires, and strict, eco-friendly policies are enforced.
I was surprised to learn that this was once a very dangerous park, filled with criminals.
BUT climbing one of the many alternatives might be better and far less expensive.
Eibhlis Gale-Coleman lays out some of the options:
Mount Kenya
Mount Meru, Tanzania
Mount Ololokwe, Kenya
Mount Ras Dashen, Ethiopia
Mount Ngaliema (Mount Stanley), Uganda
Oldoinyo Lesatima (Mount Satima), Kenya
Mount Ngaliema is no mean feat. Perched in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, it stands at 16,761 feet (5,109 meters), and is the third-highest peak in Africa. The terrain begins in rainforest and ends with a glacier traverse that necessitates crampons: Arrive expecting a pole-assisted trudge, and you’ll be overwhelmed. …
This is where Mary Leakey worked for decades. Olduvai Gorge. Hominin fossils more than 3.75 million years old.
The Maasai still live in the highlands here, though they are no longer in the caldera nor in the National Parks. Maasai herds can be as impressive as the wild animals.
Kids as young as age-4 are sometimes given responsibility to watch them.
I hadn’t realized how many Impala and similar antelopes roam these grasslands.
We camped in Serengeti.
Simple canvas tents. I used my own sleeping bag and air mattress.
During a 2am pee break, here’s how the sky looked to my iPhone 16 Pro.
We awoke to heavy rain. It seems the “long rains” from March to May have just begun.
Early start dropping down into the crater.
Predators were still working on their kills from the previous night. It seems young zebra are the dinner of choice for most.
These hyenas were almost finished with their kill. A jackal was sneaking in to get quick bites, when it could.
Why did the Wildebeest cross the road.
Animals migrate for grazing and water sources. Predators follow.
There was plenty of water in the crater while we were there. Flamingos a highlight.
Water birds of all species eat well here.
Everyone enjoys the safari experience.
Needing to drop off 2 of our group of 5, we drove all the way back to the Mosquito River hotel. This means I actually spent 2 of the 4 nights in a comfortable hotel, even though I’d signed up for camping. 😀
Last day we had only 2 of our original five signed on for the 5th day.
Manyara was better than expected. A small, well-maintained park alongside a muddy Lake.
We’d not seen many baboons nor monkeys over the previous 4 days. Made up for it here. We saw thousands of entertaining baboons playing, fighting, chasing, grooming.
Plenty of Blue monkeys. And Blackface (Vervet) monkeys, as well. The different species seem to cooperate well.
Back to the hotel for one last lunch from Tony.
His best yet.
And then the 3 hour drive back to Arusha. Our safari ended.
TIPS
It’s confusing to decide on which company to go with. Certainly you’ll be in the same Toyota LandCruiser, on the same bumpy roads, seeing exactly the same animals with most.
The only one that caught my eye for the camping option is Suricata Safaris.
Prices go way up from $200 / day depending on where you sleep each night. Luxury lodges are available. Budget about 10% for tips. And about 10% for unexpected charges.
Private bookings are more expensive, as well.
Though I did 5 days, 4 nights — optimal, I’m thinking, is 4 days, 3 nights. You’ll probably miss Lake Manyara National Park if you do this.
My iPhone 16 Pro was perfect for climbing Kilimanjaro. But it’s a frustrating, crappy option for safari. I constantly wanted more optical zoom. Bring an excellent camera on a short tripod, if you can. Also binoculars.
My only other safari was Addo Elephant Park, South Africa, in 2013. Excellent. My guide provided a checklist of animals and birds we might see ➙ and it was super fun to fill that checklist during the day. I wished I had something similar here.
Power failures are a near daily occurrence in Tanzania. Bring power banks to recharge your electronic devices.
Wifi is slow and inconsistent here. Best get phone data which works quite well.
Many tourists are over-charged. Some cheated. We had a driver for a day who claimed I had shortchanged him $40. I hadn’t. But rather than argue I gave him an extra $20 — and reported to his employer.
Worst story I heard in person was a tourist landing in Zanzibar at 3am who was stopped by two supposed police. They took his passport. Two hours later he bribed them $200 to get his passport back.
Most of the worst stories I heard were in Zanzibar.
BEST is to have transportation from airports arranged in advance with your accommodation.
Second best is to download the ride sharing Bolt app. It worked well for me.
Arguing with taxi drivers is the worst option.
Intercity buses can be OK — but driving is slow in East Africa. Short flights a better option.
Kraig Adams calls this adventure perhaps the hardest and longest hike of his life.
It’s high on my own life list. Cost and logistics are challenging.
By coincidence, I met guide Ian Taylor, the both of us finishing Kilimanjaro on the same day. I talked to him about possibly signing up for one of his K2 & Gondogoro La adventures in 2027.
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