Cam “Swami” Honan – “The most traveled hiker on earth” (Backpacker Magazine, January 2015)
Cam is the hiker I’d trust most with my life.
This is the ideal gift for anyone thinking about getting into multi-day hiking:
Part 1: Getting Started with Hiking Part 2: Gearing Up Part 3: Setting Out on the Trail Part 4: Creating a Home Away from Home Part 5: Prioritizing Health and Safety Part 6: The Part of Tens
Only 4.8km there and back, it’s super popular with families and dog walkers.
It follows the creek up to a pretty waterfall.
Expect mud on the trail, even in summer.
Here’s your destination.
Be bear aware. They are frequently spotted, even on this busy path.
In fact my Fernie friend G-Money had to deploy bear spray on the day I arrived in Fernie. They were mountain biking on a nearby trail when Momma Bear decided to protect her 2 cubs.
Though I’ve driven through Fernie, British Columbia, at least 100 times, I’d never before stopped as a tourist.
It’s fantastic.
A.I.
A year round outdoor recreation mecca.
Hiking. Mountain biking. Rafting. River tubing.
Not to mention world-class fly fishing on the Elk River for cutthroat and bull trout.
Fernie is most famous for Alpine Skiing and Snowboarding.
There are over 300 kilometers of multi-use recreational trails accessible directly out of town.
The owner of Edge of the World snowboard shop pointed out that he can hike or bike in any direction from town — and be on a fantastic trail in minutes. (He also had to deploy bear spray to dissuade a Black Bear on the day of my arrival. There is plenty of wildlife around Fernie.)
There are 4 dedicated bike and outdoor shops in a town of less than 6500 locals!
I stopped by Sun Country Cycle in Vernon to have them top up air in the tires and look over the bike for any potential problems.
The Okanagan Rail Trail leaving Vernon is fantastic. This is not part of the Trans Canada Trail.
As you get closer to Kelowna, the route is not nearly so good. I was hurting, as well, and could barely walk after only about 60km. I checked into the hostel in Kelowna wondering if I’d be able to continue. My muscles were cramping badly.
BUT I did make it to Penticton. Still hurting, but less and less.
AND was able to cycle up to the Myra Canon trailhead — though the 945-meter elevation gain at never more than 2% grade in the HEAT was tough!
I crashed that night.
Myra Canyon Trestles & Tunnels
The 18 trestles and 2 tunnels are one of the highlights of the entire Trans Canada Trail. This was my 3rd time here and I enjoyed them as much as ever.
Fantastic views — though the surface near Kelowna is very sandy & rocky. Those on eBikes were much happier than me. A good mountain bike would be better, as well, than my gravel bike.
On the other hand, I had the trail to myself most of every mile.
I stopped for coffee at Chute Lake, charging my electronics and filling up about 5 lites of water.
Up high on the trail, this was my brightest fire red sky at night. I was lucky to avoid any worse smokey air.
Columbia and Western Rail Trail
The KVR ends at Midway B.C.
I continued on towards the Columbia and Western Rail Trail. It’s about 162 km connecting Midway, Grand Forks, Christina Lake, and Castlegar.
Great sections, but not nearly as good as the KVR.
Highlights for me were sweeping views of the Granby Valley, Christina Lake, and Lower Arrow Lake.
And it offers ideal wild camping — though there are not all that many water sources.
I enjoyed dinner every night, rehydrating meals frozen by my niece. Much tastier than any commercial camping dinners I’ve ever tried.
NEW for me is using a toy drone automatically following my bicycle.
Also new for me while bikepacking, is carrying a portable camping chair.
I love it!
Though rehydrating meals is ideal …
… I eventually had an urge for solid food.
Here I am saying goodbye to the Columbia and Western Rail Trail.
To Nelson & Crawford Bay
As we had a house in Crawford Bay B.C., I was keen to continue on to Nelson and the old homestead. But I was forced on to highways and rural roadways with … HILLS.
Why didn’t someone warn me there were HILLS in British Columbia? 😀
After flat rail trails, almost every ascent seems daunting. And HOT.
I love Nelson and checked into the hostel for a night. Happily, my friend Tam happened to be in Nelson at the same time and we were able to catch up for coffee.
Rather than cycle the dangerous tourist highway out of Nelson, I put my bike on the local bus to the Kootenay Lake ferry.
In 2020 the house my Dad built was in rough shape. Six years later it looks even worse.
I’m wondering when anyone actually last lived here.
Like 2020, I stopped for lunch at the fantastic Kokanee Springs Golf Course.
Busy, Dangerous 2-lane Highways
The highway from Crawford Bay to Creston is a favourite of mine. To drive.
On the bicycle it’s dangerous with very narrow shoulders in places.
I stopped at the Gray Creek General Store to inquire whether or not cyclists were taking the Trans Canada Trail up and over the Gray Creek Pass — probably the most challenging section across the nation.
Not many, I was told.
Average of nearly 9% grade for 17 km from Kootenay Lake up to Gray Creek Pass
Average of nearly 6% grade for 12 km from Gray Creek Pass down to Parker’s Creek
No service
Rough surface
Not recommended
As I did in 2020, I chickened out and cycled the highway to Creston.
My first flat tire EVER on this bike. After trying to add air with my (crappy) hand pump, I saw there was a bike shop only 4km distant. Rolling my bike there, the street was shut down by police.
This was a crime scene. Stabbing, I was told. Possibly murder.
The bike shop owner happened to drive past, informing me it was still possible to enter the shop from the back. With no customers coming in the front door, they fixed the flat immediately and at low cost. Whew.
Creston to Cranbrook
Mostly highway. No photos.
Crawford Bay to Cranbook was the least interesting section.
Adventure Ends in Fernie
I got coffee in Cranbrook. And then tried to find the trail out of town.
It’s confusing. And I never found even one good navigation app for the Trans Canada Trail.
The end of my trip on day 11. My rear rack broke off completely going over one of those bumpy cattle guards a few hours after leaving Cranbrook.
GMoney, a ski shop owner in Fernie — who’s a punk musician in his spare time — picked me up while I was hitchhiking.
A big time hiker and cyclist, GMoney hosted me at his house and gave me advice on where I might get the bike fixed.
Turns out none of the 4 bike shops in Fernie had the kind of tools to repair the rear rack.
I stayed at the excellent Angry Elk Hostel, as well, for a couple of nights — enjoying Fernie for the 1st time — until my brother & his wife came to my rescue.
(Same day GMoney collected me, he and a girlfriend were 2 yards away from an angry Black Bear with cubs. Had to bear spray to stop her. That’s the closest bear encounter of anyone I’ve ever known. )
In the end, my cycling distance over the 11 days was around 750 km.
I Missed Fernie to Calgary
I broke down at the end of the worst highway sections, and the beginning of one of the best trail & gravel road parts of the entire Trans Canada Trail.
A shortened version of the trail over 4 days and 3 nights.
This backcountry trek is not for the first time hiker. The trail is in a remote area, and there are many opportunities to get hurt. Do your homework and make sure you are prepared. …
North Coast Trail is an adventure for the hard core.
A much easier itinerary — in our opinion — is starting at Cape Scott Trail parking lot (getting there by personal vehicle or Shuttle Van) -> hiking as far into the North Coast Trail as you wish -> then backtracking to the parking lot.
IF you insist on doing the full bushwhack, watch this video. 😀
Located just southeast of Kelowna, this flat, wide gravel path crosses 18 historic wooden trestle bridges and 2 cliffside rock tunnels over a 12-kilometer span.
I’m cycling the Trans Canada Trail to Calgary for the second time. But this was my 3rd time riding Myra Canyon. In fact, I did it both ways this time. Twice the fun.
besthike.com 