South West Coast Path – St Ives to Penzance

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.

The South West Coast Path is Englandโ€™s longest established National Trail, stretching 630 miles (1,014 km) around the southwestern peninsula of Cornwall.

St. Ives

Many feel the best section is St Ives to Penzance, taking in Land’s End, the most westerly point of mainland England.

For me that meant:

  • about 41 miles (66km) plus side trips & detours to campgrounds
  • I hiked 3.5 days. It was more demanding than expected.
  • about 3,860m (12,660ft) of cumulative climbing
  • cost for tenting was good value. Average 15 pounds ($20USD)

Click PLAY or watch my highlights on YouTube.

For navigation I used AllTrails – South West Coast Path: St Ives to Penzance offline. About 95% accurate. A few of the trails have changed over the years.

When in doubt, I checked Maps.me offline.

If you want more detailed advice, get the Cicerone guidebook – Walking the South West Coast Path.


I flew in to Cornwall Airport Newquay, the main flight hub for the region.

As a result, ended up staying 2 nights before and 2 nights after in charming Newquay.

I love that tourist town โž™ PHOTOS & VIDEO.

It was easy to get to St. Ives via bus and/or train.

Crowded with tourists, I walked through town to quickly get started.

Day 1 – Sept 15 – St Ives to Wild Camp

This spectacular hike is well posted. But you can get lost by accidentally taking local side trails.

Very quickly I was into dramatic maritime heathland, coves, and steep drop-off cliffs.

Over the 4 days, I was surprised how little beach walking is involved. Mostly you drop down to the ocean โ€” and climb directly back up.

Many historic mine shafts, adits, and engine house ruins sit close to or directly alongside the coastal path. You should respect the frequent warnings.

Weather was terrific for this part of the world. Summer 2026 quite mild here โ€” part of the European heat wave and global warming.

Still … it rains frequently. Sun showers in this case.

By dark, I’d only made it to Zennor Head. So decided to wild camp. For safety.

This was the best spot I could quickly find. Great view.

Actually, it’s very difficult to find places to wild camp. I’d strongly recommend the campgrounds, instead.

Low-growing, wind-swept shrubs like heather and gorse are densely packed. There’s no way to put up a tent on it.

I did put on the fly and tie down the tent thoroughly, just in case typical Cornwall wind & rain happened during the night. It did. ๐Ÿ˜€

Day 2 – Sept 16 – Wild Camp to YHA Land’s End Campsite

Happily, it was very windy when I packed up camp. I could dry the tent quickly.

I felt very lucky with the weather, so far.

Here’s my best photo illustrating how this section goes. See the Path high above the coastline?

And here’s a typical vista from the Path.

I would have enjoyed more beach walking. But you must side trip to reach most of the pocket beaches.

Quite a few people hike with their dogs.

Interesting along the route are old ruins. There’s a lot of history here, of course.

A highlight of the day was exploring the Botallack Mine ruins. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site โ€“ Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape. It had tunnels extending under the sea, in places for half a mile.

You can wander most of these structures. Try not to fall into any shafts.

Onward.

I took plenty of breaks, dropping my full pack. Enjoying the vistas.

I saw less fishing activity than I would have expected. Perhaps it all happens early morning.

The most magical sight was Cape Cornwall. That chimney stack dates back to 1864.

Day 3 – Sept 17 – YHA Land’s End Campsite to Treen Farm Campsite

More strenuous Cornish ups and downs, unfenced cliff edges, and rocky granite steps.

Weather as reliable as a baby’s diaper. ๐Ÿ˜€

Reaching Land’s End was a highlight. The most westerly point of mainland England.

It’s a busy tourist trap.

Scenery got better and better.

I stopped at Nanjizal Cove for some boulder scrambling.

Gwennap Head: A great spot for spotting seals, basking sharks, and seabirds near the National Coastwatch lookout.

I really didn’t see any sea life, aside from birds.

Onward.

I arrived just after the end of a show in the famous open-air Minack Theatre hewn into the granite cliffside overlooking turquoise waters.

The old red British telephone boxes have been repurposed for all kinds of things.

Here’s a typical campsite. Hot showers. Simple kitchen.

A rarity for this part of the world. Clear night sky with plenty of stars.

Day 4 – Sept 18 – Treen Farm Campsite to YHA Campsite Penzance

On this trip I was testing a new tent โž™ WindQuester Horizon Lite 2 Pro.

Heavier and slightly more complicated than my Hubba, but definitely more stable in wind and wet. More room, as well, as it’s a 2 person tent with 2 vestibules. I like it.

Last day different than the rest. I was approaching civilization. And it was more overcast.

Here’s Lamorna Cove.

If you live here, ready for severe winter storms.

Of course there have been many shipwrecks, over the centuries.

I should mention there are some sharp plants that you need to navigate carefully.

Bigger boulders this day.

I ended up boulder hopping here โ€” perhaps off trail.

You finally get into some trees.

Here’s quaintly named Mousehole.

The Mousehole Rock Pool is a historic, community-built tidal sea plunge.

Once set-up at camp in Penzance, I hopped a bus to see St. Michaels Mount. Though I arrived in time for the low tide crossing, wind and waves made it impossible.

Great hike. Highly recommended.


Iceland Traverse (Stages 1 & 2) – Cam Honan

I’d love to hike across Iceland โ€”ย but this is not an adventure for any but the hardiest.

Cam “Swami” Honan did it with Kate โ€œSwept Awayโ€ Pickett in late August/September, 2023.

This post covers the first 2 stages from Hraunhafnartangi Lighthouse to Lake Mรฝvatn.

Finding protection from the WIND is just one of many problems they faced.

Of course there are other routes across Iceland.

IF you ever consider this adventure, study Cam’s trip reports carefully:

A Quick & Dirty Guide to the Iceland Traverse (Stages 1 & 2)

Camino del Norte, Spain. French border to Bilbao.

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.

I had A.I. software remake me into a proper pilgrim. ๐Ÿ˜€

I cycled 300+km of the French Way in 2022. That was terrific. It’s the most popular of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes.

By comparison, the Camino del Norte (Northern Way) totals 817 kilometres (508 mi) across northern Spain from the border with France to Santiago de Compostela. It’s only the 6th most popular of the many Caminos. Over 21,000 pilgrims / year.

SO … in 2026 I did 6 days from French border town Irun to tourist mecca Bilbao.

The red section on the map below.

Click PLAY or get a glimpse of what it’s like on YouTube.

Camino pilgrimage routes attract many different kinds of people. Much different than on other thru hikes, I find. Some are spiritual seekers & reflective travellers. The highlights for others are the food, history, and culture.

Since the Camino del Norte attracts less than 5% of the Camino Francรฉs numbers, accommodations are not all booked. It’s not nearly as crowded.

Many feel Irun to Bilbao is the best and most scenic section of the Camino del Norte.

Steep climbs, rugged coastal cliffs, and longer stretches between services make the START of the Northern Way the most challenging.

I stayed in combination of albergues (pilgrim hostels), hostels, and emergency tent one night. Accommodation is quite inexpensive.

Flying into Bilbao

It’s easy and comparatively inexpensive to fly into Bilbao.

I arrived late night on an inexpensive flight.

More PHOTOS.

Bilbao downtown Guggenheim museum titanium metallic facade by night

I picked up my Camino de Santiago pilgrim passport (credencial del peregrino) at the Cathedral. This gains you entrance into some of the pilgrim accommodation en route.

Bus to Irรบn

It’s easy to find a direct bus to Irรบn close to the the French border.

I stayed at the Jakobi Pilgrim Hostel (Albergue de Peregrinos Jakobi) in Irun, the official starting point for the Camino del Norte. Payment is by donation.

Next morning, off and running.

The rain in Spain falls mainly in the NORTH. Over the coming week I had all kinds of weather, including lightning storm.

The Camino is well signed. I mostly used AllTrails to confirm turns. But it seemed there were many other apps in use.

There’s one ferry crossing – the Pasaia River.

First night I stayed just outside San Sebastiรกn, a tourist city very competitive with Bilbao.

San Sebastiรกn

Some stay 2 nights here as there’s a lot to see. I toured the town one evening and again the next morning.

This is the kind of place in Europe some feel is over-touristed.

San Sebastiรกn is a beach town, popular with surfers.


Onward.

One problem with ALL the Caminos … you end up doing a lot of walking on concrete and cobblestone.

By day 6 I felt one of my feet was bruised.

Zarautz Beach


I did enjoy the coastal sections.

Getaria

I happened upon a hostel in Getaria that was just serving up dinner. I stayed.

Early next morning I wandered the town before many more people were awake.

Got an early start on the hiking day.

It’s a very rural area. Plenty of farm animals to keep you company.

Some vineyards.

And eventually back to the coast.

Mutriku

Sections are very remote.

No bus. You might ride a horse out. ๐Ÿ˜€

Markina-Xemein

Monasterio de Zenarruza

Everyone wants to stay at the Monastery. Paid by donation.

Meals and room are quite basic.

But the place is beautiful.

Guernica

The town of Guernica is infamous for the 1937 painting by  Pablo Picasso.

One of the best known anti-war paintings. Germans had bombed the people here relentlessly.

Many stay over in this historic city.

Bilbao

Early enough in the day, I walked on.

Skies darkened. I decided to wild camp before the rain. This is not legal โ€” except in emergency situations like this one.

Surprisingly, I didn’t hear much about the Basque separatist movement.

With an even more torrential rain storm looming, I caught the first bus I saw on arrival to civilization to the centre of Bilbao. Happily, I made it to my very cool Pod Hostel before the worst of a deluge.

31 litres of rain / square meter in just a matter of minutes. It does rain in Spain.

Here I am at the Bilbao Cathedral. The rest of my clothes in the laundry. ๐Ÿ˜€

Bilbao Cathedral (Basilica of Saint James)

I’m considering a return to the Camino del Norte in future. Perhaps Vilalba to Santiago de Compostela, the final 100km. It merges with the bustling Camino Francรฉs for the final 2 days of walking.

Arizona’s 4th National Park – Chiricahua

Trump is expected to transform Chiricahua National Monument into a new National Park.

I’m surprised as his regime has been mainly hurting the National Park system with defunding, staffing cuts, funding diversions, and widespread censorship of historical exhibits.

He’s expanded the use of public lands for grazing, hunting, and mineral exploration.

BUT Chiricahua seems to be an exception. And โ€”ย for once โ€”ย those who love hiking can praise the ReTrumplican party for getting this done.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

UNESCO High Altitude Ridge, Switzerland

This looks something similar to our favourite day hike in the world, Harder Ridge, Switzerland.

The UNESCO High Altitude Ridge Trail in the Aletsch Arena is an epic adventure for those with a good head for heights and comfortable scrambling up bare rocks.ย 

The views of the Aletsch Glacier are simply stunning and the trail, although challenging, is fun.ย โ€ฆย 

The Photo Hikes

Survival Thriller Film – Heart of the Beastย 

I saw Heart of the Beast (2026) in the theatre.

It stars Brad Pitt and an amazing dog called Odin, portrayed by a canine actor named Uber.

It’s worth seeing.

While the movie is set in Alaska, it was filmed on location across the remoteย South Island of New Zealandย (primarily around Queenstown and Glenorchy). The crew flew via helicopter into untouched, glacial mountainous areas and dense forests that had never been captured on film before. Because they were shooting in actual wilderness, the crew had to physically haul heavy camera equipment through steep ravines and over hills in volatile weather.

Pitt actually swam in an isolated, freezing alpine lake that the crew could only access by helicopter.

HOWEVER, the wildlife attacks were entirely digital. They didn’t look realistic to me.

Reviewers likeย Mark Kermodeย noted that while the survival script format hits familiar narrative beats, the physical set pieces and the incredible performance of the dogs playing Odin make it a captivating watch. Crucially for sensitive viewers, reviews confirm early on thatย the dog does not dieย in the film.

Brad Pitt? … I’d better not say. ๐Ÿ˜€

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Camino del Norte, Spain

Arriving Bilbao, Spain on Oct. 1, 2026.

Planning on some days on the Camino del Norte (Northern Way): Irรบn on the French border back to Bilbao.

The red section on the map below.

That’s about 149 kilometers (92.5 miles) across rugged Basque Country.

Many feel this is the best and most scenic section of the Camino del Norte.

I’ll be an official pilgrim, using the network ofย alberguesย (pilgrim hostels), hostels, and tenting.

I hope to visit Biarritz, France, as well. It’s close to Irรบn.

Quiraing Circuit, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.

It’s possible to hike both Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing Circuit on the same day by bus out of Portree, the main town on the Isle of Skye.

I decided to hike Storr. Then continue by bus to Quiraiing โ€” tenting one night on the Circuit.

The scenery is similar to Storr. Towering basalt cliffs, jagged rock spires, and sweeping green terraces formed by ancient landslips.

More dangerous than it looks. Loose rock. Steep cliff drops. Mud.

It was a rare sunny day late September. No midges.

Sheep pay no attention to hikers.

I used AllTrails The Quiraing Circuit for navigation. Not needed, however.

It’s a simple loop โž™ half walking under the ridge. Half on top. About 7km return.

I opted to start under the ridge, planning to tent somewhere en route. I correctly figured it would be more sheltered for tenting.

Later in the afternoon, I got some terrific light.

This wedding photographer picked the perfect day and time.

This beastly spire is part of the section known as the Prison.

I found a spot for my tent โ€” but climbed up to explore whether or not I might like a cliff edge vista.

Majestic views, but too exposed.

Bizarre pond down below.

I ended up in this lovely spot. No rain and not much wind all night.

No photo editing.

Awaking in the morning, the downpour began.

Unfortunately, I had to climb up on to the ridge in howling wind to complete the circuit.

I took few photos. It was miserable on the return.

After the 2nd time I fell into the mud, I decided to flee to Inverness. Ending my Skye hiking.

Fierce winds.

Too bad. Just the day before I had resolve to try part of the famed Skye Trail for some days. NOPE. That’s just for hard men.

With this harsh climate, I don’t think I’d return to Skye without a motor vehicle. Here are some of the attractions I missed. Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.