South West Coast Path – St Ives to Penzance

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.

The South West Coast Path is Englandโ€™s longest established National Trail, stretching 630 miles (1,014 km) around the southwestern peninsula of Cornwall.

St. Ives

Many feel the best section is St Ives to Penzance, taking in Land’s End, the most westerly point of mainland England.

For me that meant:

  • about 41 miles (66km) plus side trips & detours to campgrounds
  • I hiked 3.5 days. It was more demanding than expected.
  • about 3,860m (12,660ft) of cumulative climbing
  • cost for tenting was good value. Average 15 pounds ($20USD)

Click PLAY or watch my highlights on YouTube.

For navigation I used AllTrails – South West Coast Path: St Ives to Penzance offline. About 95% accurate. A few of the trails have changed over the years.

When in doubt, I checked Maps.me offline.

If you want more detailed advice, get the Cicerone guidebook – Walking the South West Coast Path.


I flew in to Cornwall Airport Newquay, the main flight hub for the region.

As a result, ended up staying 2 nights before and 2 nights after in charming Newquay.

I love that tourist town โž™ PHOTOS & VIDEO.

It was easy to get to St. Ives via bus and/or train.

Crowded with tourists, I walked through town to quickly get started.

Day 1 – Sept 15 – St Ives to Wild Camp

This spectacular hike is well posted. But you can get lost by accidentally taking local side trails.

Very quickly I was into dramatic maritime heathland, coves, and steep drop-off cliffs.

Over the 4 days, I was surprised how little beach walking is involved. Mostly you drop down to the ocean โ€” and climb directly back up.

Many historic mine shafts, adits, and engine house ruins sit close to or directly alongside the coastal path. You should respect the frequent warnings.

Weather was terrific for this part of the world. Summer 2026 quite mild here โ€” part of the European heat wave and global warming.

Still … it rains frequently. Sun showers in this case.

By dark, I’d only made it to Zennor Head. So decided to wild camp. For safety.

This was the best spot I could quickly find. Great view.

Actually, it’s very difficult to find places to wild camp. I’d strongly recommend the campgrounds, instead.

Low-growing, wind-swept shrubs like heather and gorse are densely packed. There’s no way to put up a tent on it.

I did put on the fly and tie down the tent thoroughly, just in case typical Cornwall wind & rain happened during the night. It did. ๐Ÿ˜€

Day 2 – Sept 16 – Wild Camp to YHA Land’s End Campsite

Happily, it was very windy when I packed up camp. I could dry the tent quickly.

I felt very lucky with the weather, so far.

Here’s my best photo illustrating how this section goes. See the Path high above the coastline?

And here’s a typical vista from the Path.

I would have enjoyed more beach walking. But you must side trip to reach most of the pocket beaches.

Quite a few people hike with their dogs.

Interesting along the route are old ruins. There’s a lot of history here, of course.

A highlight of the day was exploring the Botallack Mine ruins. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site โ€“ Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape. It had tunnels extending under the sea, in places for half a mile.

You can wander most of these structures. Try not to fall into any shafts.

Onward.

I took plenty of breaks, dropping my full pack. Enjoying the vistas.

I saw less fishing activity than I would have expected. Perhaps it all happens early morning.

The most magical sight was Cape Cornwall. That chimney stack dates back to 1864.

Day 3 – Sept 17 – YHA Land’s End Campsite to Treen Farm Campsite

More strenuous Cornish ups and downs, unfenced cliff edges, and rocky granite steps.

Weather as reliable as a baby’s diaper. ๐Ÿ˜€

Reaching Land’s End was a highlight. The most westerly point of mainland England.

It’s a busy tourist trap.

Scenery got better and better.

I stopped at Nanjizal Cove for some boulder scrambling.

Gwennap Head: A great spot for spotting seals, basking sharks, and seabirds near the National Coastwatch lookout.

I really didn’t see any sea life, aside from birds.

Onward.

I arrived just after the end of a show in the famous open-air Minack Theatre hewn into the granite cliffside overlooking turquoise waters.

The old red British telephone boxes have been repurposed for all kinds of things.

Here’s a typical campsite. Hot showers. Simple kitchen.

A rarity for this part of the world. Clear night sky with plenty of stars.

Day 4 – Sept 18 – Treen Farm Campsite to YHA Campsite Penzance

On this trip I was testing a new tent โž™ WindQuester Horizon Lite 2 Pro.

Heavier and slightly more complicated than my Hubba, but definitely more stable in wind and wet. More room, as well, as it’s a 2 person tent with 2 vestibules. I like it.

Last day different than the rest. I was approaching civilization. And it was more overcast.

Here’s Lamorna Cove.

If you live here, ready for severe winter storms.

Of course there have been many shipwrecks, over the centuries.

I should mention there are some sharp plants that you need to navigate carefully.

Bigger boulders this day.

I ended up boulder hopping here โ€” perhaps off trail.

You finally get into some trees.

Here’s quaintly named Mousehole.

The Mousehole Rock Pool is a historic, community-built tidal sea plunge.

Once set-up at camp in Penzance, I hopped a bus to see St. Michaels Mount. Though I arrived in time for the low tide crossing, wind and waves made it impossible.

Great hike. Highly recommended.


How to Hike Steep Terrain

Robert posted another deep dive on how we can best hike safely:

HOW TO HIKE STEEP TERRAIN WITHOUT WRECKING YOUR KNEES

Good advice.

Most critical, for me with bunions, is having oversized shoes with a wide toe box. Especially for the downhill sections. I tighten up at the ankle. But have plenty of space up front so I can’t jam the toes.

Mine look somewhat like a clown shoe.

A.I. image

On my recent Balkan Trails hike, we had about 1000m of vertical every day for a week.

My feet were perfect up and down wearing clown shoes. Many in tighter hiking boots suffered.

10 Hiking and Backpacking Myths

As explained by the world’s most travelled hiker, Cam Honan:

โ€œA good lie can walk from Baghdad to Constantinople

while the truth is still looking for its sandals.โ€

~ Arab proverb

  • You Sleep Warmer Naked
  • You Need Boots to Hike
  • Waterproof Gear Is Actually Waterproof (and Breathable)
  • Washing Dishes and Bathing in a Water Source Is Okay if You Use Biodegradable Soap
  • Never Hike Alone
  • Toilet Paper Decomposes Quickly (Same Goes for Fruit)
  • Metal Items Attract Lightning
  • You Can Suck the Venom Out of a Snakebite
  • โ€œIโ€™m Just One Person: The Shortcut Wonโ€™t Cause Too Much Damageโ€
  • Climb a Tree when Confronted by a Bear

Click over to The Hiking Life for details.

10 Hiking and Backpacking Myths You Shouldnโ€™t Believe


My Helinox Chair One for Camping

After being envious for years, I finally purchased a portable chair for camping in 2024.

I take it car camping and bikepacking.

LOVE IT.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I opted for the smaller, lighter Chair One. But compare that against the High-Back option.

Both look extremely durable. I expect them to last for many years.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

My 2nd choice is the Crazy Creek HEX 2.0 Original Chair. NO legs. You can sit in it inside your tent.

My NEXT Bike for Long Distance Touring

My current touring bike is a Trek Checkpoint customized for my good self. And I have had many thousands of enjoyable miles on it. 

BUT it’s nearing end of life for multi-day cycling. I broke off the rear rack on my last long trip.

Right now I’m upgrading my other bike โž™ 2015 Ghost Panamao X 3 Bicycleย  โ€“ CAD$725. It’s in great shape right now now as Brian has been doing the maintenance. BEST about the Ghost is front suspension like a mountain bike. A comparatively inexpensive gravel ride, it carried me from Vancouver to Calgary in 2020.


Next bike?

IF I was to upgrade, my first choice is the somewhat more expensive Priority 600 series with front suspension. More comfort is the main thing I’m looking for.

An option is electronic Pinion Smart.Shift technology, 600% gear range across 12 speeds.

It’s available in titanium and aluminum.

In fact, my guru โ€” Ryan Duzer โ€” switched from a Checkpoint to the Priority. That’s Ryan in the photo.

One of the designers, some call this bike the Duzer Cruiser.  He just rode it from Canada to Mexico on the Tour Divide.

I think I’d prefer the no maintenance belt drive pinion system. And the nearly unbreakable Gates Carbon Drive.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. 

My second choice, so far, is another Trek.

The new (expensive) Check-OUT.

It’s only available in Carbon and Aluminum.

Again, the main reason is front suspension. It also offers wireless electronic SRAM AXS shifting, which is a bit tempting.

I had a test ride on the Check-OUT and it does feel fantastic.

I’ve broken 3 rear racks in the past โ€” and much appreciate the built-in variation invented for the Checkout.

Click PLAY or watch the pitch on YouTube.

WindQuester Horizon Lite 2 Pro Tent – Unboxing & First Look

BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Without reading any instructions โ€”ย or watching any videos โ€”ย I set up the NEW freestanding Horizon Lite 2 Pro. ๐Ÿ˜€

It was easy.

Happy Camper

I like the bright Seafoam Blue colours.

DAC FeatherLiteโ„ข NFL poles, YKK zippers, DAC J-stakes, Dyneemaยฎ core guylines, a stuff sack, and repair kit.

Details.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

WindQuester has asked me to do some testing in the real world on my upcoming hiking trip to the Balkans, Dolomites, and beyond.

It weighs almost 3 pounds (1.33 kg). My 1-person Hubba weighs about 2 pounds, by comparison. But many solo bikepackers (like Ryan Van Duzer) carry a 2 person tent in order to get all of their gear out of sight at night. Worth the extra weight for more space.

The WindQuester pole is shorter than the Hubba. Nice as I bring all my gear on to planes as carry on.

Click PLAY or watch the WindQuester OFFICIAL set-up on YouTube.

Is it good in the wind? See for yourself.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

What Hiking GEAR Does Dan Durston Use Himself?

Dan Durston isย an accomplished Canadian thru hiker, former environmental biologist, and the founder and product architect ofย Durston Gear, based in Golden, British Columbia.ย 

Dan’s Packs and Tents are super popular in 2026.

Long video โ€”ย but I found it interesting.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

GEAR for Bikepacking British Columbia 2026

My gear for a couple of weeks cycling the Trans Canada Great Trail out of Kelowna, British Columbia.

I’ll be day hiking and camping en route.

My ride is a Trek Checkpoint ARL 4. I’ve done thousands of KMs on it already.

Front Pannier 1 – Camping

  • Hubba NX 1 Tent
  • NeoAir XLite NXT Max Sleeping Pad
  • NeoAir UberLite Sleeping Pad (pillow)
  • Revelation Quilt
  • FLEXTAILGEAR Portable Air Pump
  • Inflatables glue & patch kits
  • Helinox Camping Chair
  • Red Nike quick dry t-shirt / pillow case
  • Tent socks

Front Pannier 2 – Clothing

  • New Balance 1260s 4E 9.5 w additional insoles
  • Crocs Camp Shoes ??
  • Janji Transit Tech Pant
  • Lifaloft Insulator hooded Jacket with stuff sack
  • Mountain Hardware Jacket & stuff sack
  • Baleef Running shorts x 3
  • City Shorts Janji
  • Black summer Buff x 2
  • Radar Pocket Cap
  • Long Brim cap
  • Wool blend t-shirts x 3
  • Best Hike t-shirt ??
  • Danish Endurance Socks x 2
  • Cycling Shorts
  • Cycling Vest
  • Cycling Beanie Cap
  • Cycling Helmet
  • Frogg Toggs Rain Pants
  • Frogg Toggs Rain Jacket
  • Towel ??

Rear Pannier 1 – Electronics

I have 3 cameras. iPhone 17. Action Camera. And a Drone.

HIGH priority for me is ensuring I can keep ALL the batteries charged. Here’s how I could recharge with just one electrical plug. In a library, for example.

  • Matein day pack
  • Anker Wall Plug & Charging Station
  • Neo 2 Drone & Case
  • Action Camera
  • Jaws GoPro Clamp Handlebar Mount
  • Cloth Shopping Bag
  • iPhone 17 Pro Max and cable (camera)
  • Flexible Tripod
  • iPhone 16 Pro and cable (phone) for Navigation
  • QuadLock iPhone 16 Pro MAG, Screen Protector
  • EarPods & cable
  • Extra EarPod for sleep
  • Apple Watch & cable
  • INIU 20000mAh battery x 2
  • AirTag in Hip Pack
  • AirTag in Laptop Bag
  • Air Tag in Bike
  • Razor and cable
  • M5 Macbook Air Laptop
  • External Hard Drive for Time Machine
  • Long Anker cables USB-C x 2
  • Laptop Dongle
  • Nitecore Headlamp & Cable
  • Unit 1 Batteries for Bicycle Lights
  • Electric Shaver & Cord
  • Red Electronics Accessories Bag
  • AllTrails Pro app
  • Gaia GPS Pro app
  • Trailforks Pro app

Rear Pannier 2 – Everything Else

  • Duffle (for airline / bus /car gear transport)
  • Waterproof Ditty stuff sack (green)
  • Denture tablets
  • Fingernail clippers
  • Asperin
  • Tums
  • Vitamin Gummies
  • Creatine Gummies
  • First aid kit
  • Sun screen?
  • Hand sanitizer x 3
  • Prescriptions
  • Toilet paper
  • Toothbrush & toothpaste
  • Bandaids
  • Soap paper
  • Vaseline
  • Moisturizing Cream
  • Garbage bags
  • Fire Starter
  • Orange Cord
  • Mosquito Head Net
  • Zip ties
  • Orange Flagging Tape
  • Bike Pump
  • Electrical Tape pencil
  • Medical Gloves
  • Bike Tube x 1
  • Bike gear attachment cords x 2
  • Tiny Handlebar Bike attachments
  • Combat Wipes
  • Extra bike light?
  • Duct tape
  • Acquatabs

Top Bag – Food

  • Ortlieb Rackpack 31 Top Bag
  • Tent Poles
  • Bear Vault
  • Ursack
  • FOOD
  • Fuel
  • Water Purification Tablets
  • Pot scrubber
  • PocketRocket Deluxe Stove
  • Titan Kettle
  • Mug
  • Bowl
  • Long Lighter x 2
  • Wash Cloth

Handlebar Bar

  • Ortlieb Ultimate Six Free 5L Handlebar Bag
  • Cameras
  • Snacks
  • Bike Lock
  • Sunglasses
  • Magnetic Knife & Fork
  • Combat Wipes
  • Sametop Clamp Tripod – NO
  • Magnetic Lights & Clip-on Attachment
  • Wristband Rear Mirror

Repair Kit Under Saddle

  • Repair Tool
  • Army Knife
  • Tire Levers x 2
  • Oil
  • Plastic Glove

Hip Pack – Valuables

  • 2 Credit Cards & Bank Card
  • Cash
  • Driver’s licence
  • Wallet
  • Travel insurance
  • Health insurance card 
  • Metal Spoon

Clothing for Cycling

Varying day-by-day, most of the time I’ll be wearing this kit.

Hydration is CRITICAL. ๐Ÿ˜€