On one road trip.
I’m brainstorming a trip for summer 2018.
I could rent a car and do this loop. Vehicle and fuel would be expensive, but I’d camp most nights.
That gets me to Skjeggedal, Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), Rondane National Park, Hardangervidda National Park … as well as the scenic Atlantic Road driving tour.
Leave a comment if you have advice.
trip report by site editor Rick McCharles
Bariloche to Cascada
From Bariloche there are two #55 buses taking two different routes to the ski resort. Check with locals to see where to catch the correct bus.
You need to purchase a SUBE bus card. Local buses do not take cash in Bariloche.
Two choices to start your trek:
1. Ski lift – Amancay to Dientes de Caballo ($24 in 2018)
2. Walk Arroyo Van Titter
Flush with cash, I took the cable car. Everyone else from my bus walked to save money.
(Early in the season the high route via the ski lift may be impassable due to snow and ice. Check with CAB in Bariloche to confirm.)
The cable car is very popular with day hikers. They come up on clear days to see the amazing vista over to Chile. This is called the Las Nubes trail.
From the top of the lift it’s about 4 hours to Frey or to the most popular alternative, Cascada camp.
I was surprised at the challenging ridge walk required. It’s difficult right off the bat. Follow the paint splotches.
It’s a high alpine route, not a trail.
I met an American day hiking who planned on descending via Frey and Arroyo Van Titter. Same day. He would be finishing in the dark.
There’s no water up high. It was hot.
At Cancha de Futbol you either turn left and head for Refugio Frey (the only Refugio which requires a reservation for both dormitory and camping) … OR, turn right towards Jacob and psych up for the long, steep scree descent towards the valley.
I planned to camp down in the green at Cascada as I couldn’t get a reservation for Frey.
First I turned left hoping to see Frey from above.
I could see the pond above the refugio, but the hut itself was out of sight below.
For navigation I was using Lonely Planet Trekking in the Patagonian Andes (out of print) — Nahuel Huapi Traverse PDF on my phone. I’d scanned it.
I enjoyed the great views up high on the ridge before starting down.
The descent was long, hot and somewhat dangerous. But I was happier than some British friends I met who were climbing UP to camp at Frey that night (illegally).
Getting to the tranquil, green, shaded campsite at dusk was wonderful. Plenty of clean water.
Apps and maps.
Viewranger offers no coverage for Chile and Argentina. Sounds like Gaia GPS is best for those nations.
I can download Patagonian maps and use them offline on the trail.
Gaia GPS is free to try for a week. Subscription membership costs $19.99/year while a Premium Membership is $39.99/year.
I joined the lower tier plan hoping the additional maps would help in South America. For Aconcagua Park, Argentina, for example, none of the layers are much good aside from Satellite with Labels. You can see the trails clearly beside water sources, tents, etc.
I’ll try it when I get there in a week or so.
Gaia claims to be superior to AllTrails in most regards, as well. And less expensive.
Without question Paine in Patagonian Chile is one of the finest and most memorable treks in the world.
But the logistics of getting everything booked in advance is daunting.
Backpackers Review posted a detailed trip report of their December 2017 circuit. It includes the latest details on getting reservations:
It is mandatory to attain all reservations for camping and refugio shelters prior to entering Torres del Paine National Park.
If you do not have reservations for your trek, you will not be able complete the Circuit trek. Reservations fill up fast for the prime season (November-March), so you should book several months in advance (for the Circuit trek, the number of trekkers is limited to 80 per day).
Outside of your camping reservations there is no separate permit needed to hike the Circuit. You simply pay the 21,000 peso (~$35) entrance fee when you arrive at the park and show proof of your camping reservations at several spots along the trek.
If you book your campsites early enough, you will have multiple options for itineraries and can decide to hike the circuit over anywhere from 6-9 days.
A map with the various campsites and refugios highlighted is shown below.
Note that there are free campsites run by the Chilean government (CONAF) and there are sites run by two different private companies (Fantastico Sur and Vertice Patagonia).
Prices for the accommodations run by the private companies range from ~$10 per person per night for camping to over $75 per person per night for a bed and meals in the refugios.
Some of the refugios are now requiring people to purchase meals, even if you camp (Chileno and Los Cuernos require full board meals in 2017-2018). This adds a lot of cost and is annoying, but the only other option is to not stay at these sites and adjust your itinerary. …
Which camps you decide stay at will largely depend on how many days you have in the park, how much money you want to spend, and whether you prefer to camp or stay in shared bunks. A few example itineraries are as follows (we hiked the 9 day one):
9 days: Seron > Dickson > Los Perros > Paso > Grey > Paine Grande > Frances > Chileno or Las Torres
8 days: Seron > Dickson > Los Perros > Paso > Paine Grande > Frances > Chileno or Las Torres
7 days: Seron > Los Perros > Grey > Paine Grande > Frances > Chileno or Las Torres
6 days: Seron > Los Perros > Paine Grande > Frances > Chileno or Las Torres
5 days or fewer: good luck! …
BACKPACKERS REVIEW – TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, PATAGONIA – CIRCUIT TREK (~80 MILE LOOP)
That’s the best trip report we know. Read it closely if you want to have a hope of getting a reservation for yourself.
related – our Paine Circuit information page
Apps and maps. For the first time I’m going to try navigating with them on the trail.
First download was Viewranger. It’s free for basics. You pay to download specialty maps.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Unfortunately their shop offers none for Chile nor Argentina.
I’m really keen on augmented reality showing me peaks, towns, lakes, cliffs, ridgelines, mountain passes, and even glaciers up to 20 miles away. That’s the Skyline feature available from within ViewRanger.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
It works with my Apple Watch too, though I may never use that feature.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Click PLAY or watch Alastair Humphreys on YouTube.
The Pacific Northwest Trail is 1200 miles long.
The PNTA has worked hard to develop an entirely new map set for 2017. These new maps feature the most up-to-date primary route and recommended alternates available. In addition, they include notes to support planning and logistics.
This map set is designed for use with The Pacific Northwest Trail Digest, 2017 Edition, by Tim Youngbluth. The guidebook and map set reference a common set of waypoints.