On July 1, 2020 I cycle toured Gabriola Island, the first time I’d been back to the island since I was a kid on family summer vacation.
Gabriola is about 14 kilometres (9 mi) long by 4.2 kilometres (2.6 mi) wide, about the same land mass as Bermuda.
I caught the ferry over from Nanaimo in the early evening.
Next morning, while celebrating Canada Day, I was reminded that descendants of the original inhabitants are still there — the Snuneymuxw, a First Nation of the Coast Salish People.
Sobering.
First stop was the Malaspina Galleries, a sandstone cliff carved by wind and waves. Lovely shoreline, as well.
I’m just back from Nepal, my first trip since 2014 where I hiked Langtang.
Around 9,000 people diedduring the Nepalearthquake of 25 April 2015.
One tiny village in the Langtang Valley accounted for 243 of them: 175 villagers, 27 local tourism staff (guides and porters), and 41 foreign trekkers.
Yet in the 2018-19 fiscal year, a record 21,945 tourists (16,386 foreigners and 5,559 Nepalis) visited Langtang National Park.
So far as I could see, Nepal trails are busier than ever. And easier than ever as you could connect to the internet almost everywhere with a Nepal Telecom (Namaste) SIM card in my mobile phone. I didn’t once have to pay for electricity in the mountains.
The big 3 trekking areas for those who want to hike independently are
The 2-3 week adventure in green connecting those 3 hikes would be far more enjoyable than the Annapurna Circuit.
You can do all on the same permit.
Best independent hikes – Langtang Region
Our recommended route. Perhaps 14-16 days.
Drive to Syabrubesi, trekking Langtang first (top of the map). Then backtracking to the Gosainkund & Helambu trek, walking most of the way back to Kathmandu.
map via NepalSanctuaryTreks.comOur group atop Kyanjin Ri (4773m) LangtangLaurebina Pass (4600m) on the Gosainkund & Helambu
This will be far less crowded than either Everest or Annapurna regions.
You can easily and inexpensively hire a guide and/or porters on any hike in Nepal for your whole trip … or short sections. But we’d recommend you do those listed above independently.
If we were to do a guided hike we’d choose areas of Nepal where guides are mandatory. For example:
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
My best ride EVER.
Jeeps and buses now shuttle up and down the valley all the way to Muktinath, causing some trekkers to dismiss this section of the Annapurna Circuit as ‘over’.
It’s not over. Most who do it still enjoy the hike down.
Still … cycling is better.
Cycling Annapurna is getting increasingly popular. But it is dangerous.
One guide I cycled alongside had 3 clients: all 3 fell over two days, one evacuated back to the U.K. with a broken collar bone.
Here’s the besteasy & inexpensive option, in my opinion.
I did the Muktinath to Tatopani ride in 2014. Enjoyed it so much that I repeated exactly the same trip in 2019.
First you have to make your way to Muktinath (3800m) and be acclimatized to that altitude.
Many offer to rent you a bike. I went again with Mustang, as I like their professionalism. For this trip and 6 years ago the cost was $60 — and you could do the trip in 1, 2, 3, or 4 days for that price. Most do 2 days. They shuttle your luggage to Tatopani.
Muktinath to Marpha (2650m descent)
Marpha to Tatopani (1130m descent)
There are several ways down to Kagbeni, all interesting. This time I took the high route via Jhong (Dzong; 3580m) on the other side of the valley from the motor vehicle traffic. Loved it.
All day long you are staring at impressive Dhaulagiri (8167m).
Day 1 is dry, arid Tibetan landscape.
You definitely need protection from wind and dust.
You reach fantastic Kagbeni without passing any traffic. But road building is ongoing in the so-called Annapurna Conservation Area.
Riding through Jomsom is ugly and un-fun. But there’s no alternative to the busy main road.
Almost everyone stops in lovely Marpha. I followed the guide and her clients to this Guest House. In fact, I got the room of her injured rider.
Next morning I toured Marpha, the apple capital of Nepal.
… a pretty stone lined village which has survived the transition to the current time, by catering to trekkers and tourists. …
Day 2 you can often choose between the main road (bad), the river (hike-a-bike) or the new Annapurna trekking trail (single track with plenty of ups-and-downs).
I enjoyed it much better than 6 years ago.
The final ride down to Tatopani (hot water) is very, very rough. I’ll post video of that section later.
😕
BUT … it is great to hit the hot springs after 2 long, dusty days.
There’s no easy way out of Tatopani. My first time here I continued trekking to Annapurna Base Camp, a serious commitment. This time I got on the local bus … $5.50 for a 7 hour, very bumpy ride back to Pokhara.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
Waking up in Kagbeni, the morning sky was perfect.
Niligiri North (7061m) from the rooftop
I thought I might catch a bus or shared jeep up to Muktinath so started walking the (shockingly paved) main drag.
I ended up on foot for 3-4 hours, but still enjoyed the road walk.
The highlight was weird Serthang Selfie Park. Yep, everyone stops here to take selfies.
Happily, this viewpoint is protected from evil spirits including ZOMBIES.
I stopped too as it was my first look at massive Dhaulagiri (8167m).
Walking asphalt is super easy. And the views kept getting better.
In arid Tibetan lands these solar powered water boilers are popular.
On arrival in Ranipauwa (3710m) I went straight to Mustang Cycle to organize my bike for the next day. They recommended the newest lodge. Probably the best room I’ve had, so far.
Muktinath (3800m) is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in the Nepali Himalaya for both Hindus and Buddhists. There are far more pilgrims than trekkers at any given time.
In the afternoon I walked up to the main temple complex above town.
Muktinath (3800m) looking back to the village.
Many pilgrims choose to ride horseback. Indeed, this seems the biggest industry in town.
It’s easy to get confused as to what’s a Buddhist temple and what’s a Shiva temple.
Vishnu is worshipped here as Muktinath, the Lord of Salvation, while Buddhists associate the deity with Chenresig, the Tibetan bodhisattva of compassion (yes, it’s complicated).
From there I continued over 2 suspension bridges to the village of Jhong (Dzong; 3580m) on the other side of the ‘river’.
Six years ago one huge statue of Shiva was under construction. I sat on the roof at dusk, I recall. It’s finished now.
Great views from up there.
Muktinath in November is also filled with relieved trekkers having successfully crossed Thorung La (5416m) on the Annapurna Circuit, the highest most will ever climb.
That’s it between the peaks. It snowed up there during yesterday’s crossing.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
The preferred route connects 125+ existing rail-trails, greenways and other multiuse paths spanning more than 3,700 miles. About half of the route is on dedicated trails now, the other half in the works.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.
