Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

World → Asia → Nepal → Langtang

Why We Like This Hike

• mighty peaks of Langtang (7234m) and Ganesh (7446m) as well as a sprawl of endless 6000m+ summits
• sacred lakes of Gosainkund in the nearby Helambu region
• wonderful photographic opportunities
• it’s fun to leave the main trails, take challenging side trips
• very little gear is needed (though I took a ton)
• walk with no tent, stove or food (though I carried all of those)
• stay in simple lodges, eat in simple restaurants.
• safe and easy to hike solo
• no need to speak Nepali, only English

Langtang National Park established 1970 Langtang Region. It was, in fact, the 1st National Park in Nepal.

Langtang is the closest trekking region to Kathmandu. Yet over 5 trips to Nepal, I’d left it to last, opting for the other major areas in previous trips: Everest (2009), Annapurna and Manaslu (2013).

Langtang is considered the easiest of the four. We learned, however, that Langtang is NOT easy.

Langtang is lower elevation … unless you opt to do side trip trekking peaks or base camp hikes, that is. Many do. I did.

The 2014 Nepal snowstorm disaster had just happened, killing at least 43 people including at least 21 trekkers. That was in Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Alarmist news headlines had parents of hikers worried, but on the ground in Kathmandu it was business as usual. Some people did divert from Annapurna to Everest or Langtang.

It was easy to find the trekking permit office in Kathmandu. And to buy my own TIMS card. And Langtang National Park permit.

As with many Nepal hiking adventures, the biggest challenge (and risk) for the independent trekker is getting to the trailhead. Bus rides in Nepal can be more dangerous than high alpine passes. 😦

For Langtang, almost everyone needs to get from Kathmandu to Syabrubesi 1500m.

It’s simple to organize transport back from the small town, but in Kathmandu it’s not so easy to find transport up into the mountains. My guidebook (by Bob and Siân) was useless.

The boss at Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP) told me there were 4 main modes of transport:

• Jeep
• Super Express mini-bus $5
• Express mini-bus
• local bus

They all left from the same area of town – Macha Pokhari.

In Thamel, travel agents seemed disinterested in me paying them a commission for arranging a ticket for the following day. Instead, I ate my free hotel breakfast at 7:30am, then took a taxi to Macha Pokhari arriving about 8:20am.

I’d happily pay for a Jeep, if I could get a seat. Super Express was my second choice.

Unfortunately I missed all modes of transport heading north for the day. 😦 The trip takes 6-11 hours, depending, and it’s dark in November by about 5:30pm.

Feeling stupid, I walked back to Thamel (via the Monkey Temple) as punishment for not showing up by 6:30am, to be sure of getting a seat.

This is one of the challenges for an independent hiker in Nepal. If I had a guide, he would have arranged my travel. (Most likely on the local bus, as it’s a few dollars cheaper.)

I was delayed a day. 😦

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | day 8 | info | … Gosainkund

by site editor Rick McCharles

Updated from my original 2010 post.

This post is for anyone considering a future hiking adventure in Nepal.

Where is the best hike?

If you simply want to sign on with a Trekking Company, start at Exodus U.K., one of the most respected firms.

For example, Mount Everest Base Camp is offered by Exodus at about $150 / day. Or more.

There are hundreds of other Trekking Companies, hundreds of other guided itineraries to consider. Some very cool options.

… However, besthike.com exists (mainly) for the independent trekker. Those who want to organize their own hike, normally carrying their own gear.

Everest Base Camp independently will cost you about $15 / day plus transport. Perhaps 10% of what you would spend with Exodus.

Your best starting point for researching an independent hike is Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya 9th edition (August 1, 2009).

Almost all independent hikers go to these destinations:

1) Everest
2) Annapurna
3) Langtang

My advice is that first time hikers to Nepal should go to Everest. Second best is Annapurna. Last choice, though still excellent, Langtang.

Everest is wonderful. Iconic. Easy to organize. And is reasonably safe as you have plenty of time to acclimatize before reaching Base Camp.

Annapurna was formerly our favourite destination. But the experience has been degraded by road construction — is the Annapurna Circuit dead?

Once you’ve decided on the destination, here’s our advice for best hike for independent trekkers:

1) Annapurna – Annapurna Circuit 21 days
2) Everest – Three Passes 20 days
3) Langtang – … various options 5-15 days

If you insist on going with a guide, consider the trip fastest gaining popularity, the Manaslu Circuit, near Annapurna. Guides are mandatory on Manaslu.

If you are short on time, go to Langtang. It’s close to Kathmandu. Easy and inexpensive to organize.

I did 16 days in both Annapurna and Everest by pushing some long hiking days. That’s minimum, I’d say. I wish I’d had more days on both trips.

You really don’t need a guide in any of these 3 highly developed destinations, but you may want to hire a guide and/or porter(s) to enhance your holiday. My advice is to do that as you go in the villages of Nepal. Almost any Guest House can arrange those for you with just a few hours notice. This way all your money goes directly to the local people. (You might want to hire a porter just for a day or two, for example.)

Recall that you can carry a very light pack in Nepal. Sleeping bag, clothing and personal essentials are all you need. And a stack of Nepali Rupees, of course, to pay for your bed and meals each day.

I saw independent hikers at Everest Base Camp who had never before done an overnight hike. (Tolerance for smelly, freezing pit toilets is the main “talent” required. Not high altitude trekking experience.)

Leave a comment if you have any advice to add.

Or if you have any specific questions.

I was born in Calgary, Alberta. Banff and the Canadian Rockies are my back yard.

When people ask me to name the most beautiful location of all, I tell them Lake O’Hara.

Getting a reservation to camp in Lake O’Hara is difficult. The few tent sites very much in demand.

Lake O’Hara Reservations must be made starting 8am Mountain Standard Time 3 months (not 90 days) before you want to camp.

250-343-6433

If you wanted to Camp Aug 10,11,12 you’d telephone May 10th at 8am. For example.

When you call, please have the following information ready:

Day or dates requested: maximum of 3 nights for camping

Number of people: maximum of 6 people per party for day use

Number of campsites: maximum of 2 sites per party and 1 tent per site

Preferred in-going bus time: reservations are not required for an outgoing bus

Mastercard, Visa, or American Express number: all fees are collected at the time of booking

details

The much more expensive Lake O’Hara Lodge and cabins are an alternative.

Elizabeth Parker Hut is another alternative. Available only by lottery, a year in advance of your stay.