Day 4 = 13.8km (± 6 hours) – Oakhurst huts – Bloukrans crossing – Andre huts
Crossing the Bloukrans River is the crux of the trip. It’s extremely important to arrive there before low tide.
At low tide in good weather, you might barely get your shorts wet. But people have drowned here. 😦
Low tide was 9:19am on our day. It takes 4-6 hours to get there.
Therefore, Rod and Jess left at 03am.
The Marques family at 05:30am.
It was 6:45am, in day light, as I walked away from camp.
A mad rush to get to the river crossing in time, I didn’t take many photos that morning. But had to stop for this picture.
We all managed our time well, arriving at the infamous Bloukrans river crossing right at low tide, 09:19am.
From above, I saw Scott checking route A, by far the BEST way to cross the river.
Conditions were perfect.
Low tide. Low river. No wind. 🙂
This family had crossed the Bloukrans the year before in far worse conditions.
They found it EASY this time.
Route A has you wade out via this sandy surge channel.
By contrast, the swim and exit via Route B (mid-tide) looked horrorshow.
You are supposed to haul yourself up out of the freezing Indian Ocean on one of two ropes.
This one gets you to the low traverse.
The other rope leads you to climb up the cliff, instead.
… I wouldn’t want to try either.
There are Routes C and D for very high water. 😦 … Don’t contemplate either.
Best wait up to 12 hours for the next low tide. Take Route A.
If you are too late in the day, be aware that there is a land route up and over the river known by Rangers. Telephone if you want information on that.
Once across the Bloukrans, you are much relieved. Guaranteed to finish the Otter. It’s easy from there.
Studying the near useless map given you at the start. And the look of the coast, … I gambled that it might be possible to stay low and make it to Andre huts along the coast.
After all, it was low tide. Very early morning.
Why not give it a try?
Sadly, the very last headland is impassable. I made it this far — then had to either backtrack. Or scramble up the cliff to regain the trail.
I scrambled.
Some exposure. Not recommended.
Arriving at the Andre huts early, we had plenty of time to explore.
Over 5 days we saw no big marine life. But plenty of birds.
Check the standard facilities.
cold showerloo with a view
My last night. Luxury mattress.
This was the only local visitor to my tent over 5 days.
At one time, the trail was much better signed for distance.
Many of those have gone missing over the years.
I’ve got this trip tagged jungle.
In many parts it’s impassable without following human or game trails. Dense fynbos is the natural shrubland or heathland vegetation unique to this part of the world.
This ocean is cold and choppy. That didn’t stop Scott.
The family had barbecue once again. I shared some of their chicken. And ate my usual meal — smashed potatoes.
The North Coast Trail is the newest (2008) of the WCT alternatives. An alternative way to spend time in this wild coastal temperate rainforest. It’s billed as “the WCT circa 1970“.
Was the WCT this bad in 1970? … Probably.☹️
STANDARD ROUTE:
• the North Coast Trail is a 43.1km extension to the original Cape Scott Trail. The total hiking distance Shushartie Bay (from water taxi) to San Josef Bay & Cape Scott Trail parking lot is a minimum of 59.5km (37mi).
• the only ways to get to the NCT are by logging road (64km from Port Hardy), water taxi or float plane.
• actually, a few masochists have bushwhacked in to Shushartie from Port Hardy. Dumb idea.
• best hike is to decide as you go where you want to camp. An “open” itinerary. Base your decisions each day on tides, weather and how you feel.
• many do 7 days, 6 nights on the standard NCT trail but — if you — instead — start at the parking lot, any number of days works. If you have serious problems, walk out.
• often you can choose between an inland path or a coastal route. The coast is almost always better. Certainly more scenic.
• the most detailed route report of the STANDARD NCT was posted in Wild Coast (2008)Shusartie to Laura Creek:
1. Shusartie overland (Shusartie to Skinner)
2. The Nahwitti Stretch (Skinner to Cape Sutil)
3. The Sutil Scramble (Cape Sutil to Irony)
4. Christensen Coast (Irony to Laura)
5. Nahwitti Cone (Laura to Nissen)
… walk out via the easy Cape Scott Trail
Though I had a challenging, terrific experience Sept 2012 (see trip report) … my recommendation is NOT to do what I did. Don’t hike the STANDARD NCT (minimum 61km). You can do better on Vancouver Island.
The new trail is extremely difficult where you start in the east. And gets easier as you head west and then south.
The beaches and trails are “better”, too, I felt, in the older western & southern parts of the Park.
Instead of the standard North Coast Trail: water taxi to Shushartie to Cape Scott Trail parking lot, better itineraries are:
• or — best of all — hiking the North Coast Trail, differently:
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HIKE DIFFERENT – option 1 of 2:
~ start Cape Scott Trail parking lot (getting there by personal vehicle or Shuttle Van) -> hiking as far into the North Coast Trail as you wish -> then backtracking to the parking lot.
That in-and-out hike gives you many, many options. You can decide what you want to do, as you go. Keeners in your group can go further east, while others in your group relax on a favourite beach.
The very worst section, in our opinion, is Skinner – Shushartie. You can stop when you get to Skinner, if the going is rough.
Downside?
Some hikers hate backtracking. No worry, in this case. The Trail looks completely different walking in different directions. It changes, too, with the tide. Trust me — you won’t be bored.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, you’ll somehow have to arrange the Shuttle to come pick you up.
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HIKE DIFFERENT – option 2 of 2:
Start at Skinner. Or even Cape Sutil.
… Why doesn’t everyone do that?
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
Shushartie is by far the safest and most reliable place to drop off hikers. It can be reached at all tides by most boats. I completed a survey of the coastline with the Coast Guard and they also recommended keeping Shushartie Bay as the primary access point strictly from a safety perspective. It is also a hardened area that is not negatively impacted by constant boat landings. …
Though more materials for boardwalk has been airdropped alongside the Trail, I heard money had run out. There has been some controversy regarding the funds expended, too.
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If I was going again next year, I’d start at the Parking lot. Not Shushartie.
… Are we being too hard on the Skinner – Shushartie slog?
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
It’s unique due to its rare vegetation and tree species, its endangered (and protected) fish and amphibian species and its ability to positively affect the rest of the park’s functioning ecosystem. All rare and unique. These types of ecosystems are often referred to as the lungs of our environment.
“Park Facility Operators” felt that it was very important to represent this ecosystem as part of the hike. It is very unique and like I say, one of the primary reasons this part of the park was created, from a conservation perspective.
Those upland bogs are interesting.
But visiting them requires one day of your life.
WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE:
• North Coast Trail is like the West Coast Trail without the hassle of getting a “Trail Use Permit”
• west coast of Vancouver Island is fantastic. This truly is one trek that could change your life.
photo by Sam Yeaman
• NCT camping is only C$10/person/night. May to Sept. You can buy backcountry permits online, or pay cash at the trailhead. Honour system.
• no quota on number of hikers (WCT allows only 60/day)
• no reservations needed
• you can hike NCT / Cape Scott year round, weather permitting, while the full WCT is only officially open 5 months a year. (However, the Water Taxi stops running around Sept. 15th each season.)
• gorgeous beach campsites with sunset views. Nel’s Bight beach is 2.4km long and 210m wide at low tide. Sweet.
• some old-growth forest including giant Sitka Spruce & Western Red Cedar
• pretty sea stacks and other fascinating coastal geology
• tidal pools, bogs, riparian areas, …
• good tent pads, far better than on the West Coast Trail
• campfires allowed. Plenty of drift wood.
• chance to see whales & other marine mammals, bald eagles, river and sea otters, mink, deer, elk
photo by Sam Yeaman
• everybody loves Guise Bay & Experiment Bight
• few biting insects on the coast (you will find mosquitoes inland out of the wind)
• possibly a few horseflies inland (not to mention millions of weird, but non-biting, beach hoppers on the coast)
• creek crossings are only an issue when in flood.
• two new cable cars propel you over the only major rivers
• theft and vandalism of parked vehicles is normally no problem at Cape Scott trailhead, San Josef. No parking fee.
• wild (dispersed) camping is allowed
• many set up tents protected within “fortresses” (temporary beach shelters made of drift logs). “Park Facility Operators” asks that you dissemble those, when finished
• beach-combing is fascinating, look for wreakage from Japan
• the Cultural Heritage of this area is fascinating. Signage explains the history of native peoples and the failed Danish colonies
• you’ll see BEARS and WOLVES in the wild 🙂
CONSIDERATIONS:
• you’ll see BEARS and WOLVES in the wild 😦
• bears and hikers both love: berries, low tide, trails
photo by Sam Yeaman
• it’s MUDDY, … really, really MUDDY
• did we mention it’s MUDDY?
• prepare for slippery rocks, roots and logs. Eyes blinded with rain, you’ll need to scramble up, over and between giant stumps. With a full pack.
• most wear waterproof hiking boot with high gaiters. It’s a gamble to wear anything else — 5-10 water shoes, for example.
• most hikers get blisters. Bring moleskin, or whatever works best for you
• most hikers bring a second pair of footwear for camp
• consider bringing one or two hiking poles. There are many wooden walking sticks to be found in the campsites, as a back-up
• you must scramble fallen trees, steep slippery slopes sometimes assisted by muddy rope
• expect to fall on your face. Most often at a moment when you’re not paying attention to your footing.
• so far “Park Facility Operators” has recorded more injuries on the “cobble beaches” than any other terrain. Slippery boulders can be ankle busters.
• bring a first aid kid. There are 3 Ranger stations, but many parts of the trail are not regularly patrolled. Plan to be self-sufficient in any emergency.
smilewithyourheart – on the road to Cape Scott
• water is a problem in this Park, sources few and far between. By end of season some sources are reduced to a trickle. Or seep. Boil, filter or treat. Collect rain water with a tarp, if you get the chance.
photo by Sam Yeaman
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
Perennial streams on coastal trails, including the NCT, are hard to predict. With such little relief and few lakes to store runoff, it all comes down to recent rain fall. Even the big streams like Nahwitti and Stranby are tidally influenced and are brackish near their mouths. …
• best bring more water carrying capacity / person (perhaps 4 litres / person)
• signage is terrific on the Cape Scott Trail, but minimal on the new NCT. Most hikers are working off the $10 Wild Coast Map
• when the NCT was built, the signage was combined with the Cape Scott Trail for consistency. Makes sense.
• fishing is permitted as per provincial and federal fishing regulations. Nobody was catching anything when we were there.
• leashed dogs allowed — but NOT recommended. There’s a chance they’ll run into wolves. UPDATE – we’ve heard dogs are no longer allowed on the trail.
• no emergency phone. No phone coverage. (Marine radios can be rented from North Coast Trail Shuttle. If you call, evacuation costs about $1000 … IF they can get to you.)
UPDATE from George of North Coast Trail Shuttle:
Only 2 injured hikers picked up in 2012. at no cost, 1 heli 1 coast guard. We picked up 2 on different days that called in to say they were done. 1 pooped 1 mild knee strain. They paid seat price as we were in the area.
We have only had one group pay the charter rate of $1000.00 in 5 years. Most get picked up next morning for discounted rate after we drop off others.
• bring your own satellite phone if you want to maximize safety. VHF radios are going to work. SPOT locators are fairly unreliable, in my opinion.
• sections of the trail are impassable or very difficult at high tide. Check tide tables posted at most official campsites. Get tide tables in advance, as a back-up, in Port Hardy. Jot them down from signs (if posted) in campgrounds, as they may be slightly different
• May to October are the best months
• we like August and early September best of all
• off-season this part of the world is very cold and rainy
• some consider Cape Scott Lighthouse a bit of a letdown. It’s not on the sea.
• rogue waves can knock an inattentive hiker into the sea
• expect torrential rain and wind. You need a good waterproof tent and tie-downs. And clothing for those conditions.
• keep a dry set of clothes in a waterproof bag, for wearing inside the tent
• summer highs around 14C (57F)
• risk of hypothermia
• bring parachute line to hang food from a tree as a back-up, in case you don’t make it to an official campsite, for any reason. There are bears everywhere.
• bear-proof metal food caches are widely available, actually. Near essential in this bear country.
photo by Sam Yeaman
LOGISTICS:
• almost everyone arrives Port Hardy by the only lonely highway. It’s 499km from Victoria, 412km from Vancouver (plus ferry).
• a terrific alternative, would be to arrive or depart by BC Ferry from Prince Rupert. (From Rupert you can catch the Alaska Marine Ferry, something I did once. A superb trip up the Inside Passage.)
• bring stove fuel with you to Port Hardy as stores may be closed
• public transport is convenient
~ one Greyhound bus a day
~ walk a couple of blocks to one of two hostels. There are many hotels, too.
~ walk to the North Coast Trail offices at the Marina, morning of transit
• both the hostel & North Coast Trail Shuttle will store a small bag for you, while you are gone. Your small bag with CLEAN clothes.
• no reservations are needed to hike the North Coast Trail. But you must book both van shuttle (San Josef) and/or water taxi (Shushartie) in advance. To get a good price you need a number of hikers taking that transport at the same time. North Coast Trail Shuttle rents VHF marine radios too ($50+tax).
You can prepay your $10/night/hiker to North Coast Trail Shuttle, as well. Very convenient.
• National Topographic Series Maps, Scale 1:50,000, Index No.102, Sheets 1/9 and 1/16, cover the Cape Scott area. Available at most map retailers in British Columbia.
BEST VIDEOS:
Cape Scott Park has a Flash-based Virtual Tour. Click around to discover highlights.
… The root bridges, some of which are over a hundred feet long, take ten to fifteen years to become fully functional, but they’re extraordinarily strong – strong enough that some of them can support the weight of fifty or more people at a time.
In fact, because they are alive and still growing, the bridges actually gain strength over time – and some of the ancient root bridges used daily by the people of the villages around Cherrapunji may be well over 500 years old. …
… (are) located entirely within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness about 15 miles (24 km) southwest of Leavenworth, Washington in the United States. The Enchantments is regarded as one of the most spectacular locations in the Cascade Range. …
Dawn broke clear and calm. But I did not get out of the tent early, fearing mosquitoes. It’s buggy close to these lakes, even in August. Climbers told me that mosquitoes chase them all the way to the windy summits.
Once on foot, I needed to keep moving briskly to stay ahead of the bloodsuckers. The scenery was gorgeous, though.
This was the only time I got my feet wet all day. (Lucky, I thought, considering I was trekking ‘alpine lakes’.)
The many waterfalls are impressive.
But for me and most, the highlight are the high, stark lakes. And craggy ridges.
I hiked directly to Aasgard Pass. Then — for FUN — returned by scrambling off-trail high above the regular route.
Surprisingly, I made even better time on the return trip … and suffered no roadblocks … until this point …
I tried descending to the far side of the lake and walking the shoreline. It would not go.
Rather than backtrack I scrambled up the cliff. Not too smart. I was lucky I didn’t splash down in the cold lake.
From there it was an easy out back down to my tent. The double traverse took me about 10hrs walking.
Hiking the Enchantments in Autumn (PHOTOS) is highly recommended. The Larch are golden. And there are NO BUGS.
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The most unusual thing about the Enchantments are the tame mountain goats.
In recent years, they have become a little too friendly with people, in some cases acting aggressively. These are large, powerful animals, and need to be treated with caution. Enjoy them from a distance and don’t encourage them. They are also very attracted to human urine; please use the toilets where provided, or urinate into gaps between boulders or other places that will prevent them from pawing up plants and soils …
• 28mi (45.1km)
• moderate difficulty
• free backcountry permit
• 4 passes all higher than 12,000ft
For years I’ve wanted to get to this, one of the most photographed idyls in the Rockies.
The Maroon Bells is a mountain in the Elk Mountains that consists of two peaks, South Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, separated by about a third of a mile.
… about 12 miles southwest of Aspen. Both peaks are counted as fourteeners …
The Maroon Bells 4 Pass Loopstarts here, high at 9580ft (2920m), mostly above the treeline.
The wildflowers were still quite good mid-August.
As usual in late afternoon in the Rockies, weather was iffy.
It was an emergency tent site I finally found just at dark. Happily, next morning dawned brilliantly clear:
The trails are fantastic, … aside from one much cursed section I called THE QUAGMIRE. Once you reach the biggest waterfall on the Crystal river, the track disappears into a bog of mud and fallen trees.
Who’s responsible?
Here I am cleaning my shoes (deliberately) on a creek crossing.
When I met an oncoming hiker who had heard about THE QUAGMIRE, he decided to bushwhack on the opposite side of Crystal river. It couldn’t possibly be worse.
See the next high pass?
That’s #3, Trail Rider.
It was a long, exhausting climb. Yet gorgeous.
Hikers on Trail Rider pass:
The vistas of Snowmass Lake on the other side were all that was keeping me going.
Tenting is super popular at Snowmass. I decided to carry on until dusk, approaching the 4th and final pass. …
Next morning I was up at first light, first human at pass #4 Buckskin. It was just me and the mountain goats.
I’ll always remember the big open vistas of the Maroon Bells. And the wildflowers.
Highly recommended. One of the best hikes in the world.
This lollypop loop circuit, as recommended by Lonely Planet Hiking in the USA, starts and (supposedly) finishes at the Island Lake trailhead on the intensely scenic Beartooth Highway, an access to Yellowstone National Park.
The wildflowers here in early August are insanely great.
Unfortunately, the horseflies and mosquitoes are insanely awful. Fish food, I guess.
For all the wildlife in nearby Yellowstone, I was surprised to see nothing larger than this marmot. … Perhaps the mosquitoes drove them out.
The High Lakes hike is aptly named. You trek from one remote lake to the next. With all the granite, at times it reminded me of the Sierra Nevada.
You are going to get your feet wet, for sure. But normally there is a way across the widest streams.
Many love this wilderness for the remote tenting options. Set up wherever you want.
Lonely Planet rates this adventure easy-medium, the worse misranking of any hike in the book. It is correct here:
… Waymarkings and signposts are unreliable. …
The Beartooth High Lakes circuit is very challenging due to the many rocky and wet scrambles. The snow that stays into late July. The lack of signage. Trails that often fizzle out completely.
In fact, I’d not recommend you try it without a good topo and GPS. One lake looks like the next up here.
Here I am wandering out through charming alpine meadows, looking for a good spot to leave a Summit Stone.
Though I was blissfully unaware at the time, I was far lost.
I ended up at the Clay Butte lookout tower, miles from my vehicle. … It was a long highway walk back to my car.
I loved the High Lakes hike. But I’d never do it again until after the mosquitoes are mostly gone. Perhaps September.
The best day hike is the section up to Becker or even Albino lakes.
Astonishingly, Oregon has kept it’s coastline mostly undeveloped.
… 1967’s Oregon Beach Bill allows free beach access to everyone. This Bill allows private beach landowners to retain certain beach land rights, but it removes the property tax obligation of the beach landowner. In exchange, the beach landowner grants an easement passage to pedestrians. …
besthike.com 