I had a long way to go today. But it was mostly downhill.
Back past Laguna Ánimas, busier than when I had camped here.
Two large water birds seem to spend their nights here.
The easy way to descend snow fields.
Though I’m afraid of riding horses, Chile is ideal country for cowboys.
Back to the green. And some shade.
Impressive Bolsón was packed. This great weather had inspired more folks from Santiago to takes some time off work.
This day I did see two large hares, the only indigenous mammals I found.
Surprisingly I saw no sign of snakes or scorpions. Or rodents. My principle companions were tens of thousands of these guys.
On the trail the only language I heard was Spanish. Foreign hikers do not seem to get here much. It’s another Chilean secret. 🙂
Catching the Parque Inglés bus back to Molina, a tranquil town of about 40,000. I (eventually) found an inexpensive and interesting place to stay in the small town. With a BIG swimming pool.
Hostería Suichi (Suisse + Chile) run by Robert, a (now jaded) Swiss expat.
Robert gave me good information. And cooked up a beef soup typical of the region for me.
In the evening I ate ice cream and hung out in the plaza. As everyone does.
On the street late night I bumped into a Chilean couple on holiday who ended up staying at the Hostería. Next morning we had breakfast together in the popular restaurant. 🙂
Meeting new people is one of the great highlights of travel.
“… Arguably the best hike in all of middle Chile, the full-day Sendero Enladrillado takes you to the top of a unique 2300m basaltic plateau with stunning views. …”
– Lonely Planet
Descabezado volcano
How could I resist? 🙂
I reached Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay from Talca bus station, 65km west of the Park. A sunny summer Friday afternoon, my Buses Vilches contraption headed to the mountains was packed. I was lucky to get a seat, one of the few perks of having grey hair.
From where the bus drops you off after 90min it’s around a 2km walk uphill to the Conaf administration building. Open even though it was after opening hours.
An older gentleman checked me in but – for some reason – charged me double for Park entrance. 10,000 rather than foreigner’s rate of 5000 pesos. I assumed the extra 5000 was for camping. At the time.
I was given a simple map and instructions on the best hike. A counterclockwise loop seeing all the highlights over about 8 hours.
It was dusk by the time I walked uphill another 2km (in crocs) to Camping Antahuara, also run by Conaf. The boys at the campground – after seeing my two Park entrance receipts, did not charge me for camping. Gracias.
Conaf’s Camping Antahuara is an excellent campsite. And I actually had electricity!
I listened to audio books, Spanish lessons. And got to sleep early.
Morning dawned bright and sunny. Again. It was a summer heat wave in Chile.
By 8am I was started up to Enladrillado carrying only a day pack. It felt easy.
This is a popular hike. I saw nearly as many people as lizards.
It’s steep in places. I recommend you hike right to left, climbing more gradually to the Enladrillado, descending from the Laguna viewpoint.
Enladrillado is great. But if you’d climbed all the way up here without seeing Descabezado (“decapitated”), you’d be disappointed. This is a hike for good weather. Phone the Ranger station (71) 220 9517 to check on he visibility before heading up.
It was getting hot.
I hid out in the shade dreaming of hiking all the way to Descabezado base camp. And climbing. Some day.
Cerro Azul
Starting here and continuing to Parque inglés is called the Circuito de los Condores. (Condor Circuit)
That’s what I should have done this trip. 😦
Next I started looping back towards Camp across the dry plateau.
Up high I saw only 3 small water sources. It’s not easy for flora or fauna to live up here.
Some cloud was rolling in down in the valley. Rangers had warned that a “little rain” was in the forecast for the weekend.
Here’s the viewpoint overlooking the laguna.
It’s a lot further down than it looks.
Though all kinds of signage makes clear that camping is not allowed, it appears the rule is not enforced. Many hikers up here were carrying sleeping bags.
This large group did not get to the top of the plateau until 1:30pm. Sadly the clouds were climbing higher. They’d likely miss the views.
I was back in camp before 4pm. The only highlight on my return this fox. In Spanish you can call him “El Zorro”.
I’d seen his cousins in Patagonia (10yrs ago) brazenly rob tents. I resolved to be more careful hiding away my camping food in Chile.
Enjoying the campground, I decided to stay another night rather than bus back to the city. It rained all night. 😦 I missed the morning bus by 2 minutes 😦 delaying my exit by about 5 hours.
Still, I highly recommend Sendero Enladrillado in good weather. I’ve added it to our list of best hikes in South America.
The best guidebook I’ve seen is Trekking por Chile 40 Rutas 2015 (Spanish). It’s available in larger bookstores in Chile.
I have been hiking Gran Paradiso National Park since I was 3yrs-old. My parents brought me there 3 months each season, my favourite time of the year. In Gran Paradiso I discovered my passion for the mountains and for nature in general.
After 30 years traveling around the world, exploring many other amazing destinations – including the Himalayas, Andes, Pamir, Andaman Sea – I had to conclude there is no place like home. Gran Paradiso National Park is my favourite place in the world.
Gran Paradiso was the first National Park in Italy and is today the largest. Cogne village is near the heart of this magnificent region. From Cogne there are hundreds of hikes and climbs. The mountains are rugged. Though there are many trails, most of the mountain valley crossings are challenging. Hikers need alpine experience.
Gran Paradiso National Park is two hours far from Turin and 3 hours from Milan, in the top north west corner of Italy.
The mountain environment is stunning with glaciers, alpine lakes and plenty of wildlife including ibexes, chamois, marmot and golden eagles.
Accommodation of all kinds are available: campsites to 4 star hotels. Food here is heavy but amazing with mountain cheese and typical rice and polenta dishes. Delicious food is just one of hundreds of reasons to come to visit this gorgeous park.
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Roberto Calcagno was born in Turin, Italy. He is 30 years old, formerly a Telecommunication Engineer who studied and lived in both Chile and Thailand. He’s always loved Nature, especially the Alps. Roberto switched jobs some years ago to follow his passion and become a hiking guide. Today he’s the owner of trekking-alps.com. Contact Roberto via that link if you are interested in hiking these mountains.
After freezing for 3 nights on the Sierra Nevada Traverse, the nearby Mediterranean coast of Spain appealed.
Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park is Andalucia‘s largest coastal protected area, a wild and isolated landscape with some of Europe’s most original geological features. It is the only region in Europe with a true hot desert climate.
The eponymous mountain range of the Sierra del Cabo de Gata with its highest peak El Fraile is Spain’s largest volcanic rock formation with sharp peaks and crags in red/ochre-hues. It falls steeply to the Mediterranean Sea creating jagged 100-metre (330 ft) high cliffs, which are riven by gullies leading to hidden coves with white sandy beaches, some of the most beautiful in Andalucia. …
I departed Granada by bus at noon. And was sitting down in Cabo de Gata town for Calamari by 4pm.
Cabo de Gata is a popular beach town in “summer”. But by mid-October it looks like this.
Mine was the only open restaurant. I need to wait for siesta to finish so I could buy 6 litres of liquid (mostly Coke Zero) to start the walk. Happily, the tiny supermarket opened at 5pm.
Lonely Planet Hiking in Spain describes a 52km coastal walk from Cabo de Gata to Aqua Amarga. I planned to start. And continue as long as I wanted. Bus transport back from Aqua Amarga is a problem. 😦
Passing retirees enjoying the sun, first stop is the Cabo de Gata tower.
Turns out there is a series of these ruins up and down the coast.
Between the village of San Miguel and the Cabo de Gata point are salt flats. This is an important stopping point for migrating flamingoes and other birds.
saltbird sanctuary
In the distance loomed this impressive church.
The beaches were near empty. Only one fisherman on this one.
It was a steep climb up and over to reach the Cabo de Gata light station.
The rugged geology is impressive.
Many tourists drive out to enjoy the views at dusk.
The only other person left standing in the dark with me was a young German who had rented an apartment in San José for a week. We walked together past the road block, back towards his place.
Together we found this tent spot. Quiet. Peaceful. And much warmer than 3000m in the Sierra Nevada.
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Here’s a glimpse looking back to where I’d come from. Next morning.
I’d been looking forward to tramping a series of pocket beaches.
If the tides are right, you can scramble between most of them. This was a highlight of the trip.
This time of year you’ll see nude and topless sunbathers at pretty much every near deserted beach.
And artists. 🙂
There’s San José (Almeria) in the distance. The centre of Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata.
I’ve seen cows (Sri Lanka), kangaroos (Australia) and goats (Spain) on beaches. Never once understanding why they would want to be there.
This is a desert. There’s very little water.
This windmill marks the start of town.
I could spend a week or two in San José. It’s lovely. Population about 1000. Plus tourists. And there are very few tourists in October despite daily highs around 28C.
An ideal idyl for cyclists, hikers, artists and photographers, I’d say. Lawrence of Arabia and the Clint Eastwood spaghetti Westerns used this location.
The campground was (surprisingly) closed. On a whim I checked the Aloha Hotel, recommended by Lonely Planet. When they offered me a pool view room for only 40EU, I couldn’t resist. After all … “recovery is an important component of every successful hike”. Plus wine. 🙂
In the afternoon I continued my hike – without backpack – up into the hills beyond San José. Here’s a glimpse back to town.
It’s rough and arid.
But with gorgeous coastal views.
I enjoyed chatting with a very tan elderly couple from GBR before finally stopping at this ruin.
After 2 days rain delay, the morning dawned lovely in Leh.
First stop was the outdoor bakery near the main Mosque.
I picked up 10 flat bread for less than $1. My hiking lunches. With peanut butter. 🙂
At the NEW Bus Station I found the (unmarked) 8am bus to Alchi, about 70km away. It was packed.
Alchi Monastery or Alchi Gompa … is said to be the oldest and most famous. …
The monastery complex was built, according to local tradition, by the great translator Guru Rinchen Zangpo between 958 and 1055. However, inscriptions in the preserved monuments ascribe it to a Tibetan noble called Kal-dan Shes-rab later in the 11th century …
The artistic and spiritual details of both Buddhism and the Hindu kings of that time in Kashmir are reflected in the wall paintings … These are some of the oldest surviving paintings in Ladakh. …
I made the Kora. Let’s hope my hike goes well.
My last meal.
The Italian woman who joined me at the tiny restaurant in Alchi square was hospitalized in Leh the day before. Altitude sickness. She was given 2 shots and 3 different pills!
The restaurant owner pointed me in the right direction at 11am. Wandering though local fields.
I was at an altitude of 3,100m (10,200ft). And needed to climb at least 2km vertical!
Here’s the one and only lizard I saw on the trip. He stayed behind in the sun.
It’s an easy start. Winding up a Himalayan valley.
Still, I was worried. I’d need to cross a huge, difficult pass, about the same height as I could see on the other side of the Indus valley.
Higher and higher.
Up a side valley I spotted Blue Sheep. Here’s the herd at 32x zoom.
That oasis across the Indus is the famed Buddhist temple Likir.
I set up my tent at the last possible site, the highest shepard shelter. My guidebook called it Stakspi La Base Camp. It was 3:30pm.
In the bright Tibetan sunlight, the autumn colours were lovely.
My goal for tomorrow is climbing up and over this 5000m+ wall.
After 2 pots of coffee in a totally empty campground, the first sight of my hiking day was … these.
The river valley continued rocky requiring many boulder hops.
Chockdo 3985m is a pretty place.
Well stocked with dung fuel for winter.
Unfortunately electricity has reached Chockdo. If I see electrical lines or motor vehicles, I quit hiking ASAP.
The homestays here actually look appealing.
Compared with yesterday, this descent was a piece of cake.
I was a little fried, but – like the horses – happy to be reaching the finish line.
At Shang Sumdo I found 2 jeeps packing up. One was already full. The other agreed to drive me back to Leh for $8.
I said goodbye to the Markha circuit.
And goodbye to Sergei.
He decided to walk to the highway. Then hitchhike to somewhere else. Somewhere with more trees. 🙂
Home sweet home. Hotel Chube in Leh.
Luke warm shower. Dosa and uttapam for lunch. 3 hours of internet. Then a celebration dinner with friends at Chopsticks, my favourite restaurant in town.
Astonishingly we watched professional wrestling on TV. It’s unbelievably popular in India.
Nearby was a big marmot hole. Currently occupied by this pica.
I packed up sooner than anyone else in camp (aside from Sergei). Nobody arrived to collect my fee.
I’d never seen so many picas in my life as I did this day. The Ladakh population is quite fearless too.
It’s easy to see we were reaching high altitudes again.
Tsigu lake 4690m.
Here’s Kang Yaze peak 6400m.
Looking back down the Markha a gorgeous vista.
I caught a glimpse of Sergei, perhaps a half hour ahead.
He was en route to Gongmaru Pass. Which looks very easy from here.
I stopped at the parachute in Nyimaling 4848m. (VERY high!) If you’re smart, you overnight here in these tents giving more time next day to get over.
I started up towards the pass at 11am.
Looking back to Kang Yaze mountain.
That’s Langthang Valley, the start of the difficult, remote trek to Pang. (My next trip to Ladakh.)
My climb looks easy. But it took a lot longer than anticipated to get to Gongmaru La 5287m.
Surprisingly, I caught Sergei. And this dog.
Sergei started down while I enjoyed the top for some time.
I like that last photo, using it for Facebook.
Every time you reach a high pass it’s worth checking both sides. In this case you could easily climb to 5500m or higher. I didn’t have the energy. Instead dropped down to the other side.
This guy and his horses coming up looked exhausted.
It would be easier to fly.
“It takes 3 1/2 hrs to Chuskyurmo from the pass.”
Kucharski – the author of my guidebook – bungled that estimate. It must take some people 6 hours to make this descent.
“ … steep, slippery, precipitous, stony, … “
Yep. And worse.
Engineers at various times have tried to make a safer trail. But landslides and washouts are difficult to predict.
Boulder hopping is a necessary skill.
The trail seemed to get worse and worse.
I got fed up after this point. Stopped taking photos. When I finally reached Chuskyurmo I plunked down my pack at the first official campsite.
These curious (and common) ground birds dropped by. Are they Chukar partridge?
Sergei packs up his small cycling tent.
We were surprised when a Tibetan woman appeared asking for 150 rupees each. It had seemed the campsite (dirty and without a toilet) was closed for the season. Apparently not.
Official campsites seem to cost 600 Indian rupees in 2015. Unofficial ones 150 Indian rupee. Both overpriced compared with homestays, we felt. (900 rupees including 3 meals)
UP and off.
I tried to keep up with Sergei. It wasn’t easy. Especially since I had been exhausted the day before keeping pace.
On the other hand, we were fairly compatible. Both keen and very independent hikers.
I found the dry Markha valley gorgeous. Sergei missed trees.
River crossings were actually a relief. Heat emergency is a real risk here.
I changed footwear. Sergei plunged through.
We’d anticipated Markha village 3806m to be somehow more impressive than the other villages. But it was very quiet. Harvest was in progress. Everyone in the fields.
So we continued.
Horses are the most popular pack animal here. Followed by donkeys.
I didn’t once see a Yak or Yak hybrid used.
The geology here is stunning.
Sergei is an alpinist, having summited Lenin Peak. He was interested in these formations.
Though there are many impressive stupas and monasteries, it seems Ladakh does not have many monks.
This particular monastery does impress, however. Umlung Gompa 3890m, impossibly situated.
The parachute camp was closed. So we carried on.
Seabuckthorn berries are everywhere. Used for jam and other local products.
Higher and drier.
We considered stopping near Hankar 3990m. But Sergei likes to walk until dusk. So he can set up his tent in the dark (for free) and not be hassled by passing locals. Everyone who walks past asks for 150 ruppee, even a monk … though the monk actually seemed to have “receipts” in his robes for the camping fee.
Exhausted and with sore feet, I finally put down my tent in the official camping at Thachungtse 4250m.
Sergei, lacking firewood to cook his dinner, decided to stay as well and use my gas stove.
