The book reached No. 1 on the New York Times Best Seller list, and was the first selection for Oprah’s Book Club 2.0. …
I’m not as keen on the book as most. NY Times DWIGHT GARNER, for example.
But it did keep me going.
She’s a decent story teller. And her story is compelling.
At age-26 her life was a train wreck. Money problems. Divorce. Abortion. Experimenting with heroin. In grief still, 4 years after the death of her mother.
With no long distance hiking experience, she tries for salvation on the PCT.
Trail Angels on the PCT is a documentary currently in production. It will explore the generosity and kindness administered to hikers along the 2600 mile Pacific Crest Trail.
Last day, early morning, climbing out of the tent, I glanced up to see the Marques family high up on the cliff.
A few minutes later, there they were up on a further viewpoint.
… I’m not all that ready to leave the Otter Trail. 😦
I caught up with the Marques just before dropping down to the Groot River and Nature’s Valley.
Instead of bright sunshine, we had a few drops of rain. The first significant rain in 5 days.
The longest 2km were on pavement to the only restaurant in Nature’s Valley.
Otter Trail certificates are available there. And you’ll be offered a traditional ‘shot’ to celebrate.
There are hostels in Pleasant Valley, served by the Baz Bus. But I caught a ride back to the start, Storms River. Scott and family had decided to stay there one more night.
Cost for that shuttle was about 150 Rand / person. ($16)
I collected my stored luggage at the National Parks office. And shared a hot shower with this mantis.
We saw friendly vervet monkeys there, as well.
I’ll never forget the Otter Trail, one of the best hikes in the world. A life changer.
If you’re interested in hiking the Otter Trail yourself, check our information page.
Day 4 = 13.8km (± 6 hours) – Oakhurst huts – Bloukrans crossing – Andre huts
Crossing the Bloukrans River is the crux of the trip. It’s extremely important to arrive there before low tide.
At low tide in good weather, you might barely get your shorts wet. But people have drowned here. 😦
Low tide was 9:19am on our day. It takes 4-6 hours to get there.
Therefore, Rod and Jess left at 03am.
The Marques family at 05:30am.
It was 6:45am, in day light, as I walked away from camp.
A mad rush to get to the river crossing in time, I didn’t take many photos that morning. But had to stop for this picture.
We all managed our time well, arriving at the infamous Bloukrans river crossing right at low tide, 09:19am.
From above, I saw Scott checking route A, by far the BEST way to cross the river.
Conditions were perfect.
Low tide. Low river. No wind. 🙂
This family had crossed the Bloukrans the year before in far worse conditions.
They found it EASY this time.
Route A has you wade out via this sandy surge channel.
By contrast, the swim and exit via Route B (mid-tide) looked horrorshow.
You are supposed to haul yourself up out of the freezing Indian Ocean on one of two ropes.
This one gets you to the low traverse.
The other rope leads you to climb up the cliff, instead.
… I wouldn’t want to try either.
There are Routes C and D for very high water. 😦 … Don’t contemplate either.
Best wait up to 12 hours for the next low tide. Take Route A.
If you are too late in the day, be aware that there is a land route up and over the river known by Rangers. Telephone if you want information on that.
Once across the Bloukrans, you are much relieved. Guaranteed to finish the Otter. It’s easy from there.
Studying the near useless map given you at the start. And the look of the coast, … I gambled that it might be possible to stay low and make it to Andre huts along the coast.
After all, it was low tide. Very early morning.
Why not give it a try?
Sadly, the very last headland is impassable. I made it this far — then had to either backtrack. Or scramble up the cliff to regain the trail.
I scrambled.
Some exposure. Not recommended.
Arriving at the Andre huts early, we had plenty of time to explore.
Over 5 days we saw no big marine life. But plenty of birds.
Check the standard facilities.
cold showerloo with a view
My last night. Luxury mattress.
This was the only local visitor to my tent over 5 days.
Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles
day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | info page
Day 3 = 7.7km (± 4 hours) – Scott huts – Lottering crossing – Oakhurst huts
Crossing the Lottering River at low tide, or close to low tide, decides your day. Time of departure from camp depends on the time of low tide. It’s almost at the end of your hiking day.
Here’s where you need the tide tables handed out at Storms River reception.
Since low tide was 8:46am this day, everyone was up and departed early.
… Aside from me, that was. I took time for 2 more cups of coffee.
The weather was gorgeous. No wind.
I was further delayed, enjoying the beach, at the easy Elandsbos River crossing.
There are at least 2 ways up the other side. An old eroded scramble. And a newer, safer route more upriver.
What a gorgeous day. My favourite of the 5.
I was much late for low tide by the time I got to Lottering.
That’s Oakhurst, my destination, just the other side of the river.
If you are going to miss the tide, at least arrive when the tide is going out. … Not coming in, as it was when I got there.
Happily, I made it across only just barely getting my shorts wet. 🙂
Rod and Jess were late, too. But super organized.
They had individual dry bags for each pack. And a second gigantic (red) dry bag that swallowed both packs.
Those are the individual bags airing out after the crossing.
My own system was simpler. Every item in my pack was in waterproof or water resistant bags.
Don’t underestimate the Lottering. You could drown crossing this river in bad weather. The current is stronger than it looks.
The waves bigger at Oakhurst camp than anywhere else on the Otter.
In 2012 wardens offered to hike in meat and drinks for your last night. A menu with prices and a telephone was available in Day 3’s hut. A small service fee was charged.
By 2013 that service had been cancelled. We heard there was some abuse of the customers. Not all the beer ordered was making it to the last huts.
At one time, the trail was much better signed for distance.
Many of those have gone missing over the years.
I’ve got this trip tagged jungle.
In many parts it’s impassable without following human or game trails. Dense fynbos is the natural shrubland or heathland vegetation unique to this part of the world.
This ocean is cold and choppy. That didn’t stop Scott.
The family had barbecue once again. I shared some of their chicken. And ate my usual meal — smashed potatoes.
I’m at ADZPCTKO. The kick off party for the Pacific Crest Trail.
Pretty inspiring. 🙂
Check the new PCT movie.
Follow a half dozen of the 300 or so hikers who attempt a Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike every year. Armed with cameras, they give us an insider’s view into what it takes to spend half a year living in the wild.