From Lost to Found on the PCT

Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail is a 2012 memoir by American author Cheryl Strayed, describing her 1,100-mile hike on the Pacific Crest Trail in a journey of self-discovery.

The book reached No. 1 on the New York Times Best Seller list, and was the first selection for Oprah’s Book Club 2.0. …

I’m not as keen on the book as most. NY Times DWIGHT GARNER, for example.

But it did keep me going.

She’s a decent story teller. And her story is compelling.

At age-26 her life was a train wreck. Money problems. Divorce. Abortion. Experimenting with heroin. In grief still, 4 years after the death of her mother.

With no long distance hiking experience, she tries for salvation on the PCT.

wild

Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail

There are plans to have Reese Witherspoon play Strayed in a future film.

The author re-married in 1999. They have two children and live in Portland, Oregon

The PCT worked for her.

She didn’t appear at the PCT kickoff 2013, by the way. There are many REAL thru hikers who resent Strayed being the most famous ever.

Much like the tragically inept Katz and Bryson, the most famous Appalachian Trail hikers.

top 10

Updated January 2019.

top 10 hikes

Top-10#1) West Coast Trail, BC, Canada
#2) John Muir Trail, California, USA
#3) Tongariro Northern Circuit, New Zealand
#4) Ausangate Circuit, Peru
#5) Sunshine to Assiniboine, Alberta, Canada
#6) Glacier North Circle, Montana, USA
#7) Otter Trail, South Africa
#8) Everest Base Camp / 3 Passes, Nepal
#9) Haute Route (Chamonix-Zermatt), Alps
10) Overland Track, Tasmania

Be the first to hike those 10 in series in 5 months.


top 10 hiking regions

Top-10#1 New Zealand
#2 Southwest USA
#3 The Rockies
#4 Sierra Nevada USA
#5 Central Andes
#6 Patagonian Andes
#7 Nepal
#8 Australia
#9 The Alps
T #10 Indian Himalaya
T #10 Dolomites

New Zealand is #1 for us. But the wealth of options in North America make it a more compelling destination for most.


top 10 hiking towns

Top-10#1) Queenstown, New Zealand
#2) Huaraz, Peru
#3) Namche Bazaar, Nepal
#4) Cortina, Italy
#5) Chamonix, France
#6) Banff, Canada or Canmore, or Jasper
#7) Grindelwald, Switzerland
#8) El Calafate / El Chaltén Argentina
#9) Zermatt, Switzerland
10) Moab, Utah

More candidate towns.


top 10 coastal hikes NEW

Top-10#1) West Coast Trail, BC Canada
#2) Otter Trail, South Africa
#3) Abel Tasman Track, New Zealand
#4) Lost Coast Trail, California
#5) Thorsborne Trail, Australia
#7) Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Hawaii
#8) Pembrokeshire Coast Path, U.K.
#9) South Coast Track, Tasmania
10) Great Ocean Walk, Australia

More candidate coastal hikes.


top 10 trekking peaks NEW

Top-10#1) Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania 5895m
#2) Cotopaxi, Ecuador 5897m <wiki><pb><sp>
#3) Imja Tse (Island Peak), Nepal 6189m <wiki><pb><sp>
#4) Mera Peak, Nepal 6476m <wiki><pb><sp>
#5) Chimborazo, Ecuador 6263m <wiki><pb><sp>
#6) Huayna Potosí, Bolivia 6088m <wiki><pb><sp>
#7) Misti Volcano, Peru 5822m
#8) Stok Kangri, India 6153m <wiki><pb<sp><trip><video><info><trip>
#9) Mt. Rainier, USA 4392m <wiki><pb><sp>
#10) Mont Blanc, France 4810m <wiki><pb><sp>

Aconcágua, Argentina 6,960.8m can be a walk-up. But not many would be willing to call it a trekking peak. 🙂

Trekking peaks are mountains under 7,000 metres (22,970 ft) climbable by anyone with a moderate amount of mountaineering experience and minimal gear.

Others considered for the top 10:

Thanks to Kraig Becker, the Adventure Blog, for help on the trekking peak section.

day 5 – Otter Trail, South Africa

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | info page

Last day, early morning, climbing out of the tent, I glanced up to see the Marques family high up on the cliff.

family

A few minutes later, there they were up on a further viewpoint.

family 2

Andre

… I’m not all that ready to leave the Otter Trail. 😦

Andre huts

cliff view

I caught up with the Marques just before dropping down to the Groot River and Nature’s Valley.

family Natures Valley

beach 1

Instead of bright sunshine, we had a few drops of rain. The first significant rain in 5 days.

beach 2

beach 3

The longest 2km were on pavement to the only restaurant in Nature’s Valley.

ribs

Otter Trail certificates are available there. And you’ll be offered a traditional ‘shot’ to celebrate.

There are hostels in Pleasant Valley, served by the Baz Bus. But I caught a ride back to the start, Storms River. Scott and family had decided to stay there one more night.

Cost for that shuttle was about 150 Rand / person. ($16)

I collected my stored luggage at the National Parks office. And shared a hot shower with this mantis.

insect

We saw friendly vervet monkeys there, as well.

I’ll never forget the Otter Trail, one of the best hikes in the world. A life changer.

Rick on the otter trail

If you’re interested in hiking the Otter Trail yourself, check our information page.

more of my photos from day 5

day 4 – Otter Trail, South Africa

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | info page

Day 4 = 13.8km (± 6 hours) – Oakhurst huts – Bloukrans crossing – Andre huts

Crossing the Bloukrans River is the crux of the trip. It’s extremely important to arrive there before low tide.

At low tide in good weather, you might barely get your shorts wet. But people have drowned here. 😦

Low tide was 9:19am on our day. It takes 4-6 hours to get there.

Therefore, Rod and Jess left at 03am.

The Marques family at 05:30am.

early morning

It was 6:45am, in day light, as I walked away from camp.

A mad rush to get to the river crossing in time, I didn’t take many photos that morning. But had to stop for this picture.

Bones

We all managed our time well, arriving at the infamous Bloukrans river crossing right at low tide, 09:19am.

From above, I saw Scott checking route A, by far the BEST way to cross the river.

Bloukrans crossing

Conditions were perfect.

Low tide. Low river. No wind. 🙂

stairs to Bloukrans

This family had crossed the Bloukrans the year before in far worse conditions.

family Bloukrans

smiling

They found it EASY this time.

Route A has you wade out via this sandy surge channel.

surge channel

By contrast, the swim and exit via Route B (mid-tide) looked horrorshow.

You are supposed to haul yourself up out of the freezing Indian Ocean on one of two ropes.

This one gets you to the low traverse.

rope Route B

The other rope leads you to climb up the cliff, instead.

… I wouldn’t want to try either.

There are Routes C and D for very high water. 😦 … Don’t contemplate either.

Best wait up to 12 hours for the next low tide. Take Route A.

If you are too late in the day, be aware that there is a land route up and over the river known by Rangers. Telephone if you want information on that.

Once across the Bloukrans, you are much relieved. Guaranteed to finish the Otter. It’s easy from there.

rocky shoreline

Studying the near useless map given you at the start. And the look of the coast, … I gambled that it might be possible to stay low and make it to Andre huts along the coast.

After all, it was low tide. Very early morning.

Why not give it a try?

Sadly, the very last headland is impassable. I made it this far — then had to either backtrack. Or scramble up the cliff to regain the trail.

Rick headland

I scrambled.

Some exposure. Not recommended.

Andre

Arriving at the Andre huts early, we had plenty of time to explore.

rocky

bird rock

Over 5 days we saw no big marine life. But plenty of birds.

shells

Check the standard facilities.

cold shower
cold shower
loo with a view
loo with a view

toilet

My last night. Luxury mattress.

tent mat

This was the only local visitor to my tent over 5 days.

deer

A female “buck“, I assume.

We celebrated our last evening with a bonfire.

bonfire

Washed completely away by morning.

Goodnight Otter.

Otter

more of my photos from day 4

on to day 5

day 3 – Otter Trail, South Africa

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles
day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | info page

Day 3 = 7.7km (± 4 hours) – Scott huts – Lottering crossing – Oakhurst huts

Crossing the Lottering River at low tide, or close to low tide, decides your day. Time of departure from camp depends on the time of low tide. It’s almost at the end of your hiking day.

Here’s where you need the tide tables handed out at Storms River reception.

Since low tide was 8:46am this day, everyone was up and departed early.

family departing

Aside from me, that was. I took time for 2 more cups of coffee.

coffee

The weather was gorgeous. No wind.

I was further delayed, enjoying the beach, at the easy Elandsbos River crossing.

Rick at Eladsbos River

There are at least 2 ways up the other side. An old eroded scramble. And a newer, safer route more upriver.

What a gorgeous day. My favourite of the 5.

beach rocks

balancing stone

I was much late for low tide by the time I got to Lottering.

Oakhurst

That’s Oakhurst, my destination, just the other side of the river.

If you are going to miss the tide, at least arrive when the tide is going out. … Not coming in, as it was when I got there.

Lottering

Happily, I made it across only just barely getting my shorts wet. 🙂

Rod and Jess were late, too. But super organized.

water crossing

They had individual dry bags for each pack. And a second gigantic (red) dry bag that swallowed both packs.

red dry bag

dry bags

Those are the individual bags airing out after the crossing.

My own system was simpler. Every item in my pack was in waterproof or water resistant bags.

Don’t underestimate the Lottering. You could drown crossing this river in bad weather. The current is stronger than it looks.

The waves bigger at Oakhurst camp than anywhere else on the Otter.

waves

In 2012 wardens offered to hike in meat and drinks for your last night. A menu with prices and a telephone was available in Day 3’s hut. A small service fee was charged.

By 2013 that service had been cancelled. We heard there was some abuse of the customers. Not all the beer ordered was making it to the last huts.

I had another very early night. No beer.

early night

more of my photos from day 3

on to day 4

day 2 – Otter Trail, South Africa

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | info page

Day 2 = 7.9km (± 4 hours) – Ngubu huts to Scott huts

stairs

Easy day. No rush.

I stopped often to read and contemplate.

Rick

At one conspicuous rocky outlier — the Skilderkrans Quartz Promontory — I left a Summit Stone.

summit stone

This place is remote.

Looking back.
looking back

Looking ahead.
looking ahead

You’d swear you were alone on a lonely coast.

Yet there are emergency escape routes all along the Otter marked E for Evacuation.

escape route

I caught up with the Marques family stopped for lunch and a swim.

lunch

Like so many similar coastal hikes, the water is stained with tannin.

water tannin

That’s not dangerous to drink. But it does have an interesting flavour. 🙂

At one time, the trail was much better signed for distance.

Otter KM signage

Many of those have gone missing over the years.

I’ve got this trip tagged jungle.

jungle

In many parts it’s impassable without following human or game trails. Dense fynbos is the natural shrubland or heathland vegetation unique to this part of the world.

This ocean is cold and choppy. That didn’t stop Scott.

swimming in ocean

The family had barbecue once again. I shared some of their chicken. And ate my usual meal — smashed potatoes.

mashed spuds

more of my photos from day 2

Sadly, I missed stopping at Bloubaai beach, the recommended lunch spot. I
a detour off the main trail.

beach

on to day 3

Tell it on the Mountain – PCT

I’m at ADZPCTKO. The kick off party for the Pacific Crest Trail.

Pretty inspiring. 🙂

Check the new PCT movie.

Follow a half dozen of the 300 or so hikers who attempt a Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike every year. Armed with cameras, they give us an insider’s view into what it takes to spend half a year living in the wild.

Click PLAY or watch a sneak peek on YouTube.

Available for purchase on Tellitonthemountain.com and Amazon.

I’m doing research for a future PCT adventure. Likely just the California section.