besthike.com

February 7, 2014February 6, 2014

Gxalingenwa hike, South Africa

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

One of the best day hikes in South Africa.

At Sani Lodge Backpackers in the Drakensberg you get everything you need.

Step out the back door, you’re on your way.

After about 250m you reach the perimeter fence of the KZN protected lands. Permit to hike costs about $3.

Every step is beautiful in the Drakensberg. Wide open.

Some African dung beetles are endangered. NOT the ones in these mountains. There are plenty.

Lizards are constant companions.

You see a lot of scat, many interesting prints, yet not much wildlife. Animals here have evolved to be elusive.

I was thrilled to see my first grey rhebok.

Alpha males “cough” at you from a safe distance.

Wild flowers were still in profusion, mid-summer. We’d had a lot of rain.

I left a Summit Stone for some future hiker to discover.

Here’s Gxalingenwa cave. These two spent two nights here, sheltered from the rain.

Later I learned you are not officially allowed to camp there.

From the cave I had to either backtrack … or finish a loop down the river.

I’d been warned that the water was high. That I’d most likely need to wade the creek several times.

Boulder hopping my second crossing, I fell in. 😦

And — since the shoes were wet — I waded 3 more crossings.

Russell at Sani Backpackers wants to improve the trail staying on one side of the creek. One day.

I was glad to have done Gxalingenwa as a loop. It’s very pretty coming down.

Some hike up to these waterfalls from the roadway.

The only downside of the Gxalingenwa loop from Sani Backpackers is a road walk finish.

Happily, I was picked up. Given a lift by University researchers who happened to be staying at the Backpackers.

more photos from this day hike

February 4, 2014

Lake of Eternal Life, Iceland

HANK LEUKART:

Brian and I start by trekking two classic, connected Iceland treks: the Fimmvörðuháls and Laugavegur Trails, the first of which begins at a huge waterfall called Skógafoss on the southern coast.

We feel almost disappointed to be enveloped by the sublime, rolling, green hills and plethora of waterfalls, because it feels like we’re in the most beautiful place in Iceland already — we’re getting a fantastic payoff way too early in our trip. Soon enough, though, as we continue through the snow and glaciers near Fimmvörðuháls Hut, it becomes obvious that there’s no chance Iceland will ever disappoint us no matter where we go. …

Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.

In January 2014, the Icelandic government announced plans to revoke 30-year-old environmental protections, putting Mývatn Lake, the Þjórsá River, and the Highlands in danger of destruction so that new hydropower plants can be built. Three waterfalls on the Þjórsá River — Kjálkaversfoss, Dynkur, and Gljúfurleitarfoss — may be ruined. Now may be the last time in history that hikers can see all of Iceland’s natural, untouched beauty …

read more – Without Baggage – Mission Iceland: A Tale of Two Brothers

Two brothers search for eternal life in the Icelandic wilderness.

February 3, 2014February 3, 2014

Kili’s Machame-Mweka route

Bob Foulkes:

I signed up, raised some money from incredulous friends, some of whom thought it cheaper to give than to have me committed, and started training.

On January 13, 2014, in my 65th year, I joined the group in Amsterdam for the flight to Moshie to start the trek to summit Mount Kilimanjaro. We are 13, 10 women and 3 men, ages varying from mid twenties to mid sixties. We’ve raised almost $100,000 for Outward Bound and have paid our own way here.

Summiting Kilimanjaro is simple but not easy. …

At 5895 meters (19, 340 feet), it is Africa’s tallest peak. It demands a high level of fitness; six to eight hour days of high altitude trekking is demanding. Our well trodden trail, the longer Machame-Mweka route covers 55 kilometers that takes us up a flank of the summit and then traverses slowly across the width of the mountain to the final camp above 4800 meters; from which we strike out for the summit. The longer route allows more time for acclimatization, improving our chances of summiting. …

read more – Climbing to the top of Africa – Part 1

Bob’s book will be available soon — Off the Couch and Out the Door.

February 3, 2014February 3, 2014

West Coast Trail day 6

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

A last minute change in my transportation itinerary required that I finish the West Coast Trail a day ahead of the rest of my group.

That meant I’d need to finish the last 2 days by 4pm TODAY, in time for the last ferry across the Gordon River.

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I packed up in the morning gloom.

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Alone and at low tide, however, I made very good time.

It was just me and these … smelly guys.

Sea stacks are the iconic image of the West Coast Trail.

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I did linger to take some photos at Owen Point.

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In my opinion, the most dangerous section of the West Coast Trail is not Adrenaline Surge, rather the boulder section between Owen and Thrasher.

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These are hikers coming the other direction. In wet conditions, the footing is treacherous.

Walk balanced atop beached logs instead, at every opportunity.

I stopped for brunch at Thrasher, pleased with my time getting there. A brazen mink was making the trip from the safety of the forest to the shore right beside hikers.

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It was trying to tear off chunks of a dead octopus, washed up on the rocks.

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Twice a bald eagle swooped in. First time we assumed it was defending the dead octopus. After the second, we realized it was trying to take the mink, instead.

Ahead of me lay the “toughest” day. Supposedly.

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In 1999 this short section to the Gordon River had taken us 10hrs.

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I’m not sure what’s changed. But it seemed very easy. Very scenic. The footing excellent.

The only real challenge was wasps.

A scrawled paper warned of wasps. I ignored it. And was stung once.

Many others that day and the next were stung, as well. (Some were stung near Chez Monique’s, as well.)

But I had no time to lick my wounds. Here I am happy to have reached the Donkey Engine.

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km 75. We made it in time for the 3pm Ferry.

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Happy. But dirty and tired. Some injured.

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Myself. I felt great. Especially while cooling my feet in the chill Gordon.

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If you miss the 4pm boat, there’s a chance you’ll be spending the night here.

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On the civilization side you can immediately get a hot shower at the campground.

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Transportation clicked. I caught the 5pm WCT shuttle to the downtown Victoria bus station. I was at my parent’s home in Parksville by 10pm.

more photos from this day

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February 1, 2014July 1, 2014

West Coast Trail day 5

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Morning was, again, misty.

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We enjoyed one of the better toilets here, however.

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Sawdust does help reduce odour.

Seems the expensive solar composting toilets (used in the past) are no longer “must have” technology.

Hicham dressing for battle.

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We faced the most dangerous section of the West Coast Trail — dread Adrenaline Surge.

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Our arrival was perfectly timed for low tide.

Two choices. Down and back up? … Or scramble around?

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We opted to stay high rather than risk a freak wave flushing us out to sea. That had happened to a friend of ours in the past. (She was washed back into the Surge on the next wave. And pulled to safety.)

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All 11 made the traverse safely. But it was very, very slippery.

If not confident in your agility, take the inland route, instead.

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On the other hand, in good conditions, at low tide, the coast can be like a sidewalk. Sandy and myself ALWAYS voted to take the coastal route. Vistas are magnificent.

The first word that comes to mind when describing the WCT is … LADDERS.

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There are MANY. Some are LONG and STEEP.

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This is no adventure for those afraid of heights.

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The second word that comes to mind is … RAIN.

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The WCT is no place for those afraid of slipping on wet surfaces.

Nor those who don’t like to get dirty.

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Actually, we had only a few hours of rain. This was a relatively dry week on the Wet Coast Trail.

Any idiot can hike when it’s dry. It takes experience and expertise to enjoy camping in the rain.

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I insisted we finish off my booze.

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Good night.

more photos from this day

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

January 31, 2014July 1, 2014

West Coast Trail day 4

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Another misty morning on the West Coast Trail.

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Look! That head has a tree growing out of it. 🙂

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Happy hikers at the Carmanah Point Light Station.

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Warren’s happy too. He knows Chez Monique’s is close.

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This was the 4th time over the past 14yrs that I’ve enjoyed this Beach restaurant. This time I took the opportunity to hang out with the Quebecois founder. Still feisty after all these years.

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I learned of a new service. The restaurant will transfer 40 pounds of your food by boat for $35. You pick up that package when you get to Chez Monique’s. I’m not sure who to contact to arrange that transfer, however.

One of our best moments was hiking through tens of thousands of gulls.

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Of our 11 hikers, only 4 were brave enough to scramble the river inland to see the Canada’s tallest tree, the Carmanah Giant, at 95.836 m (314 ft). It’s the tallest Sitka Spruce in the world, too.

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A fair bit of boulder hopping was required to keep our feet dry.

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I left a Summit Stone in tribute.

Another day, more superb and varied hiking.

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Some of our group reached Camp via the inland route. Some took the shore.

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One of the great joys of coastal hiking is the evening fire.

It’s not always easy to find dry wood, however.

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more photos from this day

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

January 30, 2014July 1, 2014

West Coast Trail day 3

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

Though dry, 2003 was a foggy summer on the West Coast Trail.

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I’m trying to dry dew and mist before packing up.

Morning fog typically burns off fairly rapidly on the coast. But not this week.

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We timed our departure to reach Tsusiat Point at low tide.

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We did some gymnastics.

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Warren showed off his mussels.

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In 1999 we could get mobile phone service most every day. In 2013 there was nothing, no matter how you “held” your phone.

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Wealthier folks than I reserve a night or two at the Dididaht tent camp.

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Happy. Happy. We reach Nitinat Narrows.

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The cost of this crossing is built into your hiking fees.

Some of us bought treats on the south side “restaurant”.

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On recommendation of the fisherman, I ordered salmon. It was cleaned in front of my eyes. Then served up with a delicious baked potato. ($25)

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This guy ordered 2 crabs for himself. And ate every bite.

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Onward.

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Onward.

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SOMEBODY got us lost, trying to stay on the coast when it was impassable.

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Who was that, Bill?

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We backtracked. Then made the final push to weird and wonderful Cribs Creek campsite.

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Food tastes GREAT when you are on the Trail, burning a lot of calories.

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more photos from this day

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January 29, 2014July 1, 2014

West Coast Trail day 2

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

To catch low tide we were up and moving as early as possible.

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Of tidal pool creatures, I love starfish best.

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Fishing was lousy out of Port Alberni in 2013. But there were plenty of Sport fishing boats off the WCT.

This is the water taxi bringing yet another group of hikers from Port Renfrew to the trailhead at Bamfield.

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Some of our group had seen a bear off our night 1 campsite. Rare on the WCT. That one had been attracted to the coast by washed up dead dolphins. The most common prints are mink.

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The WCT is the called the shipwreck coast for good reason.

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I stopped by the First Nations Trail Guardian cabin to thank the guys for taking in my friend Greg Kolodziejzyk the year before. At risk of hypothermia during a non-stop WCT trail run, Greg took refuge here for a few hours.

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Boardwalk sections are better than ever.

Still, sections of boardwalk are rotted and/or collapsed.

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Some who’ve never done the WCT wonder why BestHike.com calls the WCT the BEST hike in the world.

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It’s the VARIETY. Every step offers up a wonderful new vista.

The many cable cars are a thrill.

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Climbing ladders with full pack, a challenge.

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We carried a good first aid kit, of course. About 1 of every 100 hikers is evacuated due to injury.

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How do you beat campsites like this? 🙂

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Normally windy on the beach, I prevent Maytagging by putting smooth stones inside my tent.

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We camped at famed Tsusiat.

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Taking a plunge while reaching for the waterfall, I seized the opportunity to wash clothing and body.

Living this close together, the ladies insisted on some standards of personal hygiene. 🙂

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One of the biggest motivations for the trip was to show the West Coast Trail to some young people. Teegan thought it was pretty cool.

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more photos from this day

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

January 28, 2014July 1, 2014

West Coast Trail day 1

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | info page

By luck I met my friends at the store in Bamfield, buying last minute provisions. Everyone but myself had arrived by JUAN DE FUCA EXPRESS Water Taxi. (about $135 / person one way in 2013)

They’ll be hiking back to their vehicles in Port Renfrew.

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Still clean. Still fresh. But with HEAVY packs. 🙂

It’s not easy to get permits for a group this large. (The maximum group size is 10.) But we somehow managed it, booking by phone the very first minute that reservations are taken.

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