We enjoyed one of the better toilets here, however.
Sawdust does help reduce odour.
Seems the expensive solar composting toilets (used in the past) are no longer “must have” technology.
Hicham dressing for battle.
We faced the most dangerous section of the West Coast Trail — dread Adrenaline Surge.
Our arrival was perfectly timed for low tide.
Two choices. Down and back up? … Or scramble around?
We opted to stay high rather than risk a freak wave flushing us out to sea. That had happened to a friend of ours in the past. (She was washed back into the Surge on the next wave. And pulled to safety.)
All 11 made the traverse safely. But it was very, very slippery.
If not confident in your agility, take the inland route, instead.
On the other hand, in good conditions, at low tide, the coast can be like a sidewalk. Sandy and myself ALWAYS voted to take the coastal route. Vistas are magnificent.
The first word that comes to mind when describing the WCT is … LADDERS.
There are MANY. Some are LONG and STEEP.
This is no adventure for those afraid of heights.
The second word that comes to mind is … RAIN.
The WCT is no place for those afraid of slipping on wet surfaces.
Nor those who don’t like to get dirty.
Actually, we had only a few hours of rain. This was a relatively dry week on the Wet Coast Trail.
Any idiot can hike when it’s dry. It takes experience and expertise to enjoy camping in the rain.
Warren’s happy too. He knows Chez Monique’s is close.
This was the 4th time over the past 14yrs that I’ve enjoyed this Beach restaurant. This time I took the opportunity to hang out with the Quebecois founder. Still feisty after all these years.
I learned of a new service. The restaurant will transfer 40 pounds of your food by boat for $35. You pick up that package when you get to Chez Monique’s. I’m not sure who to contact to arrange that transfer, however.
One of our best moments was hiking through tens of thousands of gulls.
Of our 11 hikers, only 4 were brave enough to scramble the river inland to see the Canada’s tallest tree, the Carmanah Giant, at 95.836 m (314 ft). It’s the tallest Sitka Spruce in the world, too.
A fair bit of boulder hopping was required to keep our feet dry.
By luck I met my friends at the store in Bamfield, buying last minute provisions. Everyone but myself had arrived by JUAN DE FUCA EXPRESS Water Taxi. (about $135 / person one way in 2013)
They’ll be hiking back to their vehicles in Port Renfrew.
Still clean. Still fresh. But with HEAVY packs. 🙂
It’s not easy to get permits for a group this large. (The maximum group size is 10.) But we somehow managed it, booking by phone the very first minute that reservations are taken.
Famously — this is supposed to be the EASY end of the WCT. Yet Sandy found this the toughest day of all.
Sandy’s catch phrase for our adventure, day-by-day, was from Big Bang Theory:
What fresh Hell is this?
Day 1 was not all that “easy”. New ladders have been added at the Bamfield end.
Still — there are some gorgeous attractions.
When it’s not raining, temperate rain forests are intriguing. So many odd mushrooms, for example.
Trying NOT to accidentally step on huge Banana slugs is a challenge.
At this end, many of the biggest old growth trees have been logged.
How are the toilets, you may ask?
Not as good as on my past trips. Avoid them if you can. Sit in the woods, instead. 🙂
How is the mud?
Not as bad as on past trips. 2013 was a very dry season.
As always, the safest strategy is to plod right through the middle. This is one trek where waterproof footwear and gators are recommended.
Most of our group was from flat, FLAT Saskatchewan. Tidal pools are a big attraction.
All week our timing with the tides was perfect. Hiking the coast when tides are low, weather dry, makes the WCT far, far easier.
On my other trips we camped at Michigan. Trying to avoid the crowds, we kept going to Tsocowis Creek. We found it fairly crowded.
What’s this weird toilet-paper-look-a-like kelp?
For the first time on the WCT (for me), we had a bear lockers at every campsite.
A perfect start to the West Coast Trail. 🙂
… Except that my headlamp failed. New batteries were dead. 😦
Warren advised to put a piece of plastic between the batteries and the contact while in transit. Next time.
My Dad dropped me at the ferry in Port Alberni. Riding the Francis Barkley is my favourite way to start the WCT.
The weather was perfect as it had been for most of the summer of 2013.
arriving Bamfield
Scheduled to rendezvous with the rest of my group next day, I could have taken a trail shuttle out toPachena Bay Campground at the trailhead.
Instead, I stayed at small Centennial Park Campground ($23) in Bamfield.
Having no place to store my food overnight, I ended up leaving it in this shed. Storage for a communal fenced garden.
My new lighter failed. They truly are an unreliable technology. 😦
It was nice to have a final few hours with phone / free internet access (Bamfield Community School Library). And there were OTHER good reasons to spend my last night in Bamfield. 🙂
I enjoyed both meals at Tides and Trails Restaurant.
scenes from the trail has a detailed trip report on the new North Coast Trail on Vancouver Island. These ladies found it easier than I did. 🙂
Distance: 59.5 km (including about 16 km which is part of the Cape Scott track).
Recommended number of days: for average parties 5.5-7, for fast and very fit parties 3.5-5.
Location: Near Port Hardy, BC. Part of Cape Scott Provincial Park.
Logistics: A water taxi is necessary to get to the starting point at Shushartie Bay. The North Coast Trail Shuttle offers a water taxi from Port Hardy and a pick up at the Cape Scott trailhead (about 60 km from Port Hardy).
Bookings: At this stage, it isn’t necessary to book the track. You should book your shuttle/boat in advance. You must also pay a back country fee to BC Parks of $10 per person, per night.
Further Considerations: Make sure you consult a tide chart before leaving, and have one with you. There is only one short section that is truly impassable at high tide, but many of the beach sections are much easier at low tide. Also consider that this is an area in which there is a lot of wildlife, particularly wolves and bears. …
For multi-day wilderness adventures, Rangers told me the higher, dryer east half Olympic National Park was best. Many options depending on how many days you have.
Just looking at a map, I’m thinking to start at Deer Park trailhead (5400ft) because it’s high. Decide where to exit based on Ranger’s advice, weather and the number of days I’ll have.
Leave a comment if you’ve hiked overnight on the East side of the Park.
The North Coast Trail is the newest (2008) of the WCT alternatives. An alternative way to spend time in this wild coastal temperate rainforest. It’s billed as “the WCT circa 1970“.
Was the WCT this bad in 1970? … Probably.☹️
STANDARD ROUTE:
• the North Coast Trail is a 43.1km extension to the original Cape Scott Trail. The total hiking distance Shushartie Bay (from water taxi) to San Josef Bay & Cape Scott Trail parking lot is a minimum of 59.5km (37mi).
• the only ways to get to the NCT are by logging road (64km from Port Hardy), water taxi or float plane.
• actually, a few masochists have bushwhacked in to Shushartie from Port Hardy. Dumb idea.
• best hike is to decide as you go where you want to camp. An “open” itinerary. Base your decisions each day on tides, weather and how you feel.
• many do 7 days, 6 nights on the standard NCT trail but — if you — instead — start at the parking lot, any number of days works. If you have serious problems, walk out.
• often you can choose between an inland path or a coastal route. The coast is almost always better. Certainly more scenic.
• the most detailed route report of the STANDARD NCT was posted in Wild Coast (2008)Shusartie to Laura Creek:
1. Shusartie overland (Shusartie to Skinner)
2. The Nahwitti Stretch (Skinner to Cape Sutil)
3. The Sutil Scramble (Cape Sutil to Irony)
4. Christensen Coast (Irony to Laura)
5. Nahwitti Cone (Laura to Nissen)
… walk out via the easy Cape Scott Trail
Though I had a challenging, terrific experience Sept 2012 (see trip report) … my recommendation is NOT to do what I did. Don’t hike the STANDARD NCT (minimum 61km). You can do better on Vancouver Island.
The new trail is extremely difficult where you start in the east. And gets easier as you head west and then south.
The beaches and trails are “better”, too, I felt, in the older western & southern parts of the Park.
Instead of the standard North Coast Trail: water taxi to Shushartie to Cape Scott Trail parking lot, better itineraries are:
• or — best of all — hiking the North Coast Trail, differently:
_____
HIKE DIFFERENT – option 1 of 2:
~ start Cape Scott Trail parking lot (getting there by personal vehicle or Shuttle Van) -> hiking as far into the North Coast Trail as you wish -> then backtracking to the parking lot.
That in-and-out hike gives you many, many options. You can decide what you want to do, as you go. Keeners in your group can go further east, while others in your group relax on a favourite beach.
The very worst section, in our opinion, is Skinner – Shushartie. You can stop when you get to Skinner, if the going is rough.
Downside?
Some hikers hate backtracking. No worry, in this case. The Trail looks completely different walking in different directions. It changes, too, with the tide. Trust me — you won’t be bored.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, you’ll somehow have to arrange the Shuttle to come pick you up.
_____
HIKE DIFFERENT – option 2 of 2:
Start at Skinner. Or even Cape Sutil.
… Why doesn’t everyone do that?
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
Shushartie is by far the safest and most reliable place to drop off hikers. It can be reached at all tides by most boats. I completed a survey of the coastline with the Coast Guard and they also recommended keeping Shushartie Bay as the primary access point strictly from a safety perspective. It is also a hardened area that is not negatively impacted by constant boat landings. …
Though more materials for boardwalk has been airdropped alongside the Trail, I heard money had run out. There has been some controversy regarding the funds expended, too.
_____
If I was going again next year, I’d start at the Parking lot. Not Shushartie.
… Are we being too hard on the Skinner – Shushartie slog?
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
It’s unique due to its rare vegetation and tree species, its endangered (and protected) fish and amphibian species and its ability to positively affect the rest of the park’s functioning ecosystem. All rare and unique. These types of ecosystems are often referred to as the lungs of our environment.
“Park Facility Operators” felt that it was very important to represent this ecosystem as part of the hike. It is very unique and like I say, one of the primary reasons this part of the park was created, from a conservation perspective.
Those upland bogs are interesting.
But visiting them requires one day of your life.
WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE:
• North Coast Trail is like the West Coast Trail without the hassle of getting a “Trail Use Permit”
• west coast of Vancouver Island is fantastic. This truly is one trek that could change your life.
photo by Sam Yeaman
• NCT camping is only C$10/person/night. May to Sept. You can buy backcountry permits online, or pay cash at the trailhead. Honour system.
• no quota on number of hikers (WCT allows only 60/day)
• no reservations needed
• you can hike NCT / Cape Scott year round, weather permitting, while the full WCT is only officially open 5 months a year. (However, the Water Taxi stops running around Sept. 15th each season.)
• gorgeous beach campsites with sunset views. Nel’s Bight beach is 2.4km long and 210m wide at low tide. Sweet.
• some old-growth forest including giant Sitka Spruce & Western Red Cedar
• pretty sea stacks and other fascinating coastal geology
• tidal pools, bogs, riparian areas, …
• good tent pads, far better than on the West Coast Trail
• campfires allowed. Plenty of drift wood.
• chance to see whales & other marine mammals, bald eagles, river and sea otters, mink, deer, elk
photo by Sam Yeaman
• everybody loves Guise Bay & Experiment Bight
• few biting insects on the coast (you will find mosquitoes inland out of the wind)
• possibly a few horseflies inland (not to mention millions of weird, but non-biting, beach hoppers on the coast)
• creek crossings are only an issue when in flood.
• two new cable cars propel you over the only major rivers
• theft and vandalism of parked vehicles is normally no problem at Cape Scott trailhead, San Josef. No parking fee.
• wild (dispersed) camping is allowed
• many set up tents protected within “fortresses” (temporary beach shelters made of drift logs). “Park Facility Operators” asks that you dissemble those, when finished
• beach-combing is fascinating, look for wreakage from Japan
• the Cultural Heritage of this area is fascinating. Signage explains the history of native peoples and the failed Danish colonies
• you’ll see BEARS and WOLVES in the wild 🙂
CONSIDERATIONS:
• you’ll see BEARS and WOLVES in the wild 😦
• bears and hikers both love: berries, low tide, trails
photo by Sam Yeaman
• it’s MUDDY, … really, really MUDDY
• did we mention it’s MUDDY?
• prepare for slippery rocks, roots and logs. Eyes blinded with rain, you’ll need to scramble up, over and between giant stumps. With a full pack.
• most wear waterproof hiking boot with high gaiters. It’s a gamble to wear anything else — 5-10 water shoes, for example.
• most hikers get blisters. Bring moleskin, or whatever works best for you
• most hikers bring a second pair of footwear for camp
• consider bringing one or two hiking poles. There are many wooden walking sticks to be found in the campsites, as a back-up
• you must scramble fallen trees, steep slippery slopes sometimes assisted by muddy rope
• expect to fall on your face. Most often at a moment when you’re not paying attention to your footing.
• so far “Park Facility Operators” has recorded more injuries on the “cobble beaches” than any other terrain. Slippery boulders can be ankle busters.
• bring a first aid kid. There are 3 Ranger stations, but many parts of the trail are not regularly patrolled. Plan to be self-sufficient in any emergency.
smilewithyourheart – on the road to Cape Scott
• water is a problem in this Park, sources few and far between. By end of season some sources are reduced to a trickle. Or seep. Boil, filter or treat. Collect rain water with a tarp, if you get the chance.
photo by Sam Yeaman
“Park Facility Operators” by email:
Perennial streams on coastal trails, including the NCT, are hard to predict. With such little relief and few lakes to store runoff, it all comes down to recent rain fall. Even the big streams like Nahwitti and Stranby are tidally influenced and are brackish near their mouths. …
• best bring more water carrying capacity / person (perhaps 4 litres / person)
• signage is terrific on the Cape Scott Trail, but minimal on the new NCT. Most hikers are working off the $10 Wild Coast Map
• when the NCT was built, the signage was combined with the Cape Scott Trail for consistency. Makes sense.
• fishing is permitted as per provincial and federal fishing regulations. Nobody was catching anything when we were there.
• leashed dogs allowed — but NOT recommended. There’s a chance they’ll run into wolves. UPDATE – we’ve heard dogs are no longer allowed on the trail.
• no emergency phone. No phone coverage. (Marine radios can be rented from North Coast Trail Shuttle. If you call, evacuation costs about $1000 … IF they can get to you.)
UPDATE from George of North Coast Trail Shuttle:
Only 2 injured hikers picked up in 2012. at no cost, 1 heli 1 coast guard. We picked up 2 on different days that called in to say they were done. 1 pooped 1 mild knee strain. They paid seat price as we were in the area.
We have only had one group pay the charter rate of $1000.00 in 5 years. Most get picked up next morning for discounted rate after we drop off others.
• bring your own satellite phone if you want to maximize safety. VHF radios are going to work. SPOT locators are fairly unreliable, in my opinion.
• sections of the trail are impassable or very difficult at high tide. Check tide tables posted at most official campsites. Get tide tables in advance, as a back-up, in Port Hardy. Jot them down from signs (if posted) in campgrounds, as they may be slightly different
• May to October are the best months
• we like August and early September best of all
• off-season this part of the world is very cold and rainy
• some consider Cape Scott Lighthouse a bit of a letdown. It’s not on the sea.
• rogue waves can knock an inattentive hiker into the sea
• expect torrential rain and wind. You need a good waterproof tent and tie-downs. And clothing for those conditions.
• keep a dry set of clothes in a waterproof bag, for wearing inside the tent
• summer highs around 14C (57F)
• risk of hypothermia
• bring parachute line to hang food from a tree as a back-up, in case you don’t make it to an official campsite, for any reason. There are bears everywhere.
• bear-proof metal food caches are widely available, actually. Near essential in this bear country.
photo by Sam Yeaman
LOGISTICS:
• almost everyone arrives Port Hardy by the only lonely highway. It’s 499km from Victoria, 412km from Vancouver (plus ferry).
• a terrific alternative, would be to arrive or depart by BC Ferry from Prince Rupert. (From Rupert you can catch the Alaska Marine Ferry, something I did once. A superb trip up the Inside Passage.)
• bring stove fuel with you to Port Hardy as stores may be closed
• public transport is convenient
~ one Greyhound bus a day
~ walk a couple of blocks to one of two hostels. There are many hotels, too.
~ walk to the North Coast Trail offices at the Marina, morning of transit
• both the hostel & North Coast Trail Shuttle will store a small bag for you, while you are gone. Your small bag with CLEAN clothes.
• no reservations are needed to hike the North Coast Trail. But you must book both van shuttle (San Josef) and/or water taxi (Shushartie) in advance. To get a good price you need a number of hikers taking that transport at the same time. North Coast Trail Shuttle rents VHF marine radios too ($50+tax).
You can prepay your $10/night/hiker to North Coast Trail Shuttle, as well. Very convenient.
• National Topographic Series Maps, Scale 1:50,000, Index No.102, Sheets 1/9 and 1/16, cover the Cape Scott area. Available at most map retailers in British Columbia.
BEST VIDEOS:
Cape Scott Park has a Flash-based Virtual Tour. Click around to discover highlights.
besthike.com 