Best hikes, treks, tramps in the world.
YouTube superstar Kraig Adams headed for Peru to do the fantastic Huayhuash Circuit.
Unfortunately it was June 2021. Peru had become the nation with the highest COVID related death rate.
As a result, Kraig needed to switch to famed Laguna 69 out of Huaraz, one of our top 10 hiking towns in the world.
As always, his video is fantastic. By far the best I’ve seen on Laguna 69.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.
Day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | gear | video | WCT info
I awoke in the morning wondering whether my injured leg could get me out in time for the 3:30 ferry across the Gordon river.
I had ALL DAY to make 10km.
My leg felt no worse. And no better. Every step hurt but it seemed full strength.
Two choices, both challenging:
I headed for the shelf.
First challenge — many surge channels.
Happily, the tide was very low. Waves almost non-existent.
Best weather of the week.
I was able to jump or walk around all surge channels without trouble.
Plan worked. I reached Owen Point at exactly lowest tide.
A highlight of the West Coast Trail.
Next challenge: HUGE boulders and log walking.
As a former gymnast, I enjoy scrambles. No problems.
I arrived Thrasher Cove before Noon.
From here my guidebook estimated 4 hours for 6km all inland. It could’t possibly take me that long, even injured. 🤫 Could it?
The Thrash is a steep, switchbacking scramble from the beach up to the high inland trail.
It seemed to take forever to reach the famed Donkey Engine.
I started to worry about time. There is some gorgeous easy trail walking on the final 5km, as well. Nobody understands WHY this section takes so long.
Donkey engines were used to pull huge logs, back in the day.
I didn’t reach the final ladder down to the Gordon river until 3:25pm, 5 minutes before the (supposed) deadline to cross.
Whew.
As required, I waltzed into the West Coast Trail office to check off the trail. Relieved.
I had a second permit to start the next day BACK to Bamfield. A WCT yoyo. But had to cancel due to injury.
Easiest was to simply change the reservation. Out of the blue, I decided on July 3rd out of Nitinat.
Once the excitement of finishing ebbed, my leg really started hurting on the slow plod 5km into Port Renfrew town.
Just before I got to the hiker’s hut I had booked, 3 friends from the trail stopped to ask me if I wanted a ride to Nanaimo.
Sweet.
That was exactly what I wanted to do.
I collected my resupply. Cancelled my reservation at the hiker’s hut.
Got home before 9pm.
And I’m already looking forward to another West Coast Trail week in July.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.
Day 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | gear | video | WCT info
Wow. What a fantastic campsite.
Protected from the rain by the cliff, I had my own personal kitchen.
Here’s the impassable headland at Cullite.
Therefore everyone heads up the the ladders. Those at Cullite highest of all.
Top of the stairs is a quagmire of mud and trippy roots.
But the inland trail can be beautiful.
Wild and weird mushrooms.
One of the most interesting creatures is the Banana slug.
If you could eat them, you’d never starve. And they have been eaten by humans — but are not appetizing. Remove the slime first.
DAMN. I slipped in a mud pit — face first — badly bruising my thigh on a hidden root.
The leg seemed to work … but was painful. I limped on with the logic of walking it off.
I can’t go on, I’ll go on.
Our plan had been to camp on the beach Km 65 . Cross Owen Point at low tide next morning. And out to Port Renfrew.
Km 65 is only 8km from Cullite — but the short day sounded good since I was now injured and moving slowly.
Unfortunately there was no place to set up a tent near Km 65. 😕
I decided to camp right on the trail. A good spot, actually.
I was able to secure my food because I’d carried it in an Ursack.
No campfire.
Went to bed early hoping the leg wouldn’t hematoma.
by BestHike editor Rick McCharles.
Click PLAY or watch a short preview on YouTube.
I’d planned to YOYO in celebration of our #1 hike in the world reopening after the pandemic:
June 10 starting SE from Bamfield.
June 15 starting NW from Port Renfrew.
As happens so often on the WCT, plans changed.
I broke my main camera on day 3 of a planned 12 day adventure. Then bruised my thigh badly 😩 on day 5 — landing hard on a root in a mud bog.
I felt forced to reschedule my second West Coast Trail to start July 3, 2021.
I’ll put together detailed info-tainment videos for the WCT once I’ve done it twice. 😇
Reservations opened April 30, 2021. Open only to Canadians.
Due to computer system glitches, I wasn’t able to start day 1 ~ June 4, 2021.
The earliest I could reserve was June 10th out of Bamfield.
As the ferry Port Alberni to Bamfield was still closed to hikers, I booked by phone on the West Coast Trail Express.
CAD $125 Nanaimo to Bamfield one way. I was the only passenger.
Excellent service. I recommend them.
Highest priority for hikers is foot care.
Know that your feet expand while hiking — especially in hot weather — so many of us buy walking shoes a size larger than what we wear in the city.
I loved Christopher Mcdougall’s book …
Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen
That said, I’ve never hiked barefoot or with minimal shoes. Raised in cold Canada, my feet are wimpy.
If you have time, go back to the beginning. Listen to an audiocast about the history of footwear.
Jeff “Legend” Garmire is an adventurer who climbed the Colorado 14ers, survived The Great Western Loop, broke the Arizona Trail self-supported FKT, Long Trail Unsupported FKT, and the Colorado Trail Unsupported FKT and much more.
Free Outside is his telling of his Calendar Year Triple Crown: Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail.
I listened to the audio version which Jeff reads himself.
Fast paced. No dull moments.
8000 miles averaging over 30 miles a day.
I enjoyed the book.
It’s real to his experience. So real that no editor seems to have corrected spelling nor typos.
Seemed to me the CDT would be my least favourite of the three — overall. Too many cows. Too much dirty drinking water.
Nicole Qualtieri:
I embarked on my first solo backpacking trip in 2014. It’s no small admission to say that the effort changed the course of my life.
That trip was — perhaps — overkill for my first shot at backpacking solo. I completed 150 miles, combined over multiple trips on the Continental Divide Trail in Montana and Wyoming. But I dialed in my system and wilderness skills, powered through blisters, and faced my fears over the course of those miles.
In a world filled with noise, constant companionship, phones that never power down, and internet advice coming at us incessantly, here’s one more bit of advice I’d like to impart — turn it all off. Take a walk in the dirt.
This summer, go backpacking alone. …
Backpacking Alone Is for Everyone
When nature calls (and it will), the Kula Reusable Antimicrobial Pee Cloth keeps your hands dry on one side while sopping moisture into the absorbent, antimicrobial side that won’t show stains.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Billy Yang put together a terrific documentary on their 2020 John Muir Trail.
But it was a sufferfest for many miles.
Plenty of life philosophy.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
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