Simien Trek Ethiopia – day 3

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Day 3: Gich-Chennek (3600 m), 7-8 hrs walking

A cold night.

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But the sky was blue. People keen to get an early start. This would be the best day of the trek.

I love these high altitude grassy plateaus.

Vegetation changes significantly with altitude. Giant lobelias dominate the landscape from here on in.

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Nadine likes what our guide called Everlast, too. This high altitude plant blooms year round.

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The heart of the mountains. The central viewpoint of the Simien traverse.

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It’s a bit of a scramble.

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It’s from here that some see similarities with the Grand Canyon. Our trip organizer, Nur, joked that Simien is more of a Green Canyon.

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In fact, only South Africa’s Drakensberg were formed in the same manner. That’s the best comparison.

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Spanish Moss. Old Man’s Beard.

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When it’s dry, the trails are easy walking.

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There’s always an EMERGENCY horse waiting. Many fall victim to symptoms of altitude sickness. There are always people selling knickknacks. Their starting price for bartering is usually $8. For anything.

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We stopped for lunch at yet another fantastic cliffside viewpoint.

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The cold encouraged us to get moving again. This is 4000m (13,000+ft).

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I love best the sections of trail walking the escarpment cliff edge.

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The drop is typically 600 – 800m. There is one trail up from the lowlands, using ladders. Park Rangers use it.

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Red Hot Pokers. The prettiest flower on the trail.

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Finally we caught a glimpse of Camp.

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One of the great treats of a guided hike is having hot drinks ready on arrival.

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These are our mule drivers.

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We had hardly seen them as they and their beasts are not welcome at Camp. They were astonished and thrilled with a combined $15 tip. This is likely the only hiking trip they’ll get in a year. There are thousands of horses in the Simien, all waiting their turn to carry tents, stoves and sleeping bags.

At every campsite in the world there’s some camp thief looking to eat your lunch. In the Simien, it’s the thick-billed raven.

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Atypically, the clouds rolled in.

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I felt there was still zero chance of rain. It’s the dry season.

At 5:30pm we headed over to the cliff edge. Waiting.

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At 6:10pm the baboons headed for the cliff.

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Geladas sleep, when they can, on steep slopes for protection from predators, quite near the Ibex. Baboons have excellent hearing. Ibex excellent vision. Either/or may detect a lurking predator above.

I tried to stay up later around the campfire. But it was too smokey.

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Another early night.

more photos

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Simien Trek Ethiopia – day 2

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Day 2: Sankaber-Gich (3600 m), 5-6 hrs walking

I couldn’t sleep.

Tossing. Turning.

My stomach, not perfect on arrival for this adventure, was getting worse.

At midnight I rushed to the filthy toilet with diarrhea.

At about 2am I awoke suddenly, urgent to vomit outside the door of my tent.

Disgusting. But I was too sick and tired to worry about it until daylight.

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Early morning the thick-billed ravens squawked around my tent … eating the vomit. It was entirely cleaned up by the time I finally got up.

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These birds are the biggest and noisiest ravens I’ve ever seen, unique to this region. They mostly travel in male/female pairs.

Breakfast is normally a highlight of these guided camping trips. But I couldn’t eat today. As a test I forced down coffee and a couple of bites of scrambled egg.

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Our gear would ride horseback today. A mob of mule drivers crowded around, hoping they would get work.

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There’s a maximum weight / horse. 45kg or thereabouts.

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Back to the impressive escarpment walk. Amazing views.

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Joshua is smiling here, but his stomach was getting worse by the minute. He and I had eaten fish the evening before. We speculated that it was the fish that made us both sick. Why were we eating fish at 3000m in a land that has little refrigeration?

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The vegetation seemed to get more interesting the higher we climbed.

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We tried resting at the waterfall lookout, but Josh was getting sicker. He spoke, for the first time, of possible quitting the hike. Not only was his stomach bad, but he was feeling symptoms of altitude sickness.

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waterfall Simien - Josh and Nadine

Climbing back up to the road, we discussed our options. With an interested local audience.

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Camp tonight was much higher (3600m) and much more remote. If we continued and Josh was to get sicker, there was no road escape route.

We could try descending and see if he improved, but if we waited too long, there may be no vehicles heading back down this afternoon.

There are a few tourists jeeps each day. And these local people movers.

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Finally one of those heading down arrived. Josh made the decision. Hopped up into the truck, paying an absurd $30 for the ride back down to Dabark. Happily one of the hiking guides was in the truck. He promised to get Josh to the mini-bus station and all the way back to Gondar.

It was the correct decision. But it wasn’t easy for Nadine to continue without her husband.

I felt Josh was decided, determined and rational when he scrambled up into the truck.

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Later we learned he couldn’t even remember departing. His mind was confused all the way back to Debarq where he was detained for riding illegally in the truck! 😦

Luckily he was finally allowed to take a cab the 2 hours back to Gondar, all the minibuses having departed.

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At lunch we were visited by hungry goats.

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Baboons live here in conflict with local farmers.

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Farmers grow barley. And it was being harvested. Geladas like to eat barley. Each field has a child who’s job it is to chase away baboons.

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This lovely Muslim village has 1200 people.

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Our scout, Adim, lives here. So he greeted most everyone we met.

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My stomach at this point was 90% OK. I’d eaten almost nothing all day. But I was very tired. It was a huge relief when we finally made camp.

I only wanted to lie down for a nap.

But as I dropped my pack, Paul ran over and said: “What are you doing? The Ethiopian wolf is here.”

We rushed to look.

Ethiopian Wolf

The Ethiopian wolf is native to the Ethiopian Highlands. It is similar to the coyote in size and build …

Unlike most large canids, which are widespread, generalist feeders, the Ethiopian wolf is a highly specialised feeder of Afroalpine rodents with very specific habitat requirements. It is one of the world’s rarest canids, and Africa’s most endangered carnivore. …

Only about 400 survive in 7 different mountain ranges, perhaps 90 in Simien.

Instead of climbing up to the famed sunset viewpoint with Nadine, I crashed in my tent for an hour.

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Africa sunsets are the best anywhere, however. I forced myself to get up with my camera.

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Nadine got the BIG views up high.

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I ate almost nothing for dinner. Went to bed immediately. The indoor campfire was too smokey.

more photos

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Simien Trek Ethiopia – day 1

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Day 1: Gondar-Sankaber (3250 m), 3-4 hours walking

6:30am Ethiopian coffee

7am pick-up at the (recommended) L-Shape Hotel in the tourist town Gondar. Room about $13 in 2014.

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It was an easy 2hr drive to Debarq, the jumping off point for Simien Mountains National Park. Quick stop at the National Park office.

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We had breakfast at the Great Work Hotel. Excellent Mango juice.

Our car returned with gear, guide, cook and … personal armed Park Ranger. They call themselves Scouts. A guard is still required for each trekking group in 2014, though these days it’s more of a make work project for the Rangers.

We drove through the Park gates and continued about another hour.

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This road is rough. Though it was being improved while we were there.

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We’re HERE. Trekking the Simien mountains. What a thrill.

Simien Ethiopia Map

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I’d joined Josh and Nadine, a couple from Edmonton, Canada who have been volunteering in Burundi for the past 2 years.

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Here’s our excellent Guide, Adoo.

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And our Scout, Adim.

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Immediately we headed for the great escarpment.

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It’s a long, long way down. About 800m here.

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Simien - Josh and Nadine horse

Local people are everywhere. This is a shared use National Park.

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We heard that road and power lines being moved further away from the trekking route. I hope that’s true.

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Adoo detoured from the cliff when he spotted a group of 200-400 Gelada baboons. (more photos)

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Geladas are found only in the high grassland of the deep gorges of the central Ethiopian plateau. They live in elevations 1,800–4,400 m above sea level, using the cliffs for sleeping and montane grasslands for foraging. …

Geladas are the only primates that are primarily graminivores and grazers – grass blades make up to 90% of their diet. They eat both the blades and the seeds of grasses. …

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They mate in May, have babies in November. Females were very protective of their youngest. Some looked like newborns.

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We sat down and let the group graze past us. Some of the toddlers were curious enough to TRY to touch us.

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What a fantastic 2 hours. This might be the best wildlife encounter anywhere in the world. It was my best wildlife encounter ever. 🙂

Simien was one of the first sites to be made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (1978). Due to serious population declines of some of its characteristic native species, in 1996 it was also added to the List of World Heritage in Danger.

The word Semien means north in Amharic. But the name Simien and the word simian do make a good mnemonic for this hike. Geladas are the highilght. 🙂

Elated, we shuffled another hour or so to Camp 1. Talking about the baboons.

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poison tomatoes
poison tomatoes

It’s a very easy half day, yet everyone was huffing and puffing due to altitude.

Popcorn and hot drinks on arrival were much appreciated.

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I rested an hour. (I opted to use my own tent. Not the one supplied.)

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We headed over to the ridge for the sunset, surprised how cold it was in Africa at night.

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Josh got some great pics.

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Dinner was impressive: soup, bread, fish, salad, spinach, deep fried banana. I skipped the salad (worried about my health) but tried some of everything else.

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We checked the full moon, then retreated to our tents. There was no campfire. I climbed into 2 sleeping bags. The one provided. And my own. Everyone was surprised how cold it was at night in Simien.

Simien - Josh and Nadine

more photos

day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | info

Bale Mountains National Park treks

Ethiopia. Guided.

Nominated in 2009 to the World Heritage Tentative List, Bale Mountains National Park (BMNP) is a national park in Ethiopia with one of the highest incidences of animal endemicity of any terrestrial habitat in the world. …

Bale Mountains National Park is open year-round although the most popular time to visit is November through April when the rains have stopped. The Park can be reached by private car or public transportation from Addis Ababa. Visitors may choose to trek throughout the Park either by horseback or on foot, or alternatively to visit the Park entirely by car. Treks range from one to 12 nights and travel through all the different ecosystems of the Park. …

map

Download the FREE Park guide (PDF):

Treks range from 3,000m to above 4,000m altitude. Explore all habitats of the Bale Mountains National Park as you trek across the home of the Ethiopian wolf, mountain nyala, giant molerat and Bale monkey. Experience stunning Afroalpine mountains and natural scenery while heading deep into the heart of the Sanetti plateau – a floating land.

Explore vast moorland and discover Afroalpine plants as you camp in the wilderness. Hike amongst rock pinnacles etched out of the lava flows by millions of years of ice and winds, and pass waterfalls and alpine lakes. Camping in the Harenna forest may reward you with a sighting of the elusive animals that live there. Wildlife that can be seen along the way includes the olive baboon, warthog, rock hyrax, Starck’s hare, klipspringer, grey duiker, African wild dog, giant forest hog, leopard, lion and birds of prey. …

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coast-to-coast Madagascar

The plan is simple – to be a part of the world’s first group to walk across the northern part of the island from east to west, entirely on foot, a distance of almost 400 km, in the seemingly impossible timeframe of three weeks. …

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Days pass by as we trek west. We camp in rural villages – usually on patchy football fields where, night after night, hundreds of curious children and adults alike surround us, amazed at the presence of a ‘Vaza’, a white ghost – the Malagasy term for westerners. They haven’t seen many before. In fact, in this part of Madagascar, away from the tourist trail in the south, the last foreigners that have entered the foothills of the Tsaratanana were the French army in the late 1940s and occasional mineral prospectors in the 1970s. …

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At exactly the half way point of the journey, after almost two hundred kilometers of uphill slogging, we reach the summit of Maromokotro, Madagascar’s highest mountain. …

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read more – Adventure Travel: Madagascar

(via Hiking in Finland)

Giant’s Cup Trail, Drakensberg – day 3

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

Easy day. Only 12km to finish the Giant’s Cup Trail at Bushman’s Nek Hut.

I departed Swiman hut late.

Glorious. Glorious.

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Skies were clear. The landscape empty aside from me. And THIS GUY.

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I later did some research … but couldn’t confirm the species. Leave a comment if you know.

Again, each time I got saw some significant shade, I cooled off.

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This crude wooden bridge had obviously flooded recently.

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BABOONS!

This afternoon I saw 4-5 different troops of Baboons in the distance.

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This was my best photo.

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DUNG BEETLE!      … Actually, there are plenty of Dung beetles on this trail.

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Frog.

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I had great views of a big herd of Eland.

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And again saw grey rhebok.

South Africa is a hot, dry country. But there’s no shortage of water in the Drakensberg during the rainy season.

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Civilization.

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I’d held on to a Summit Stone for the entire trip, waiting on some “highlight” of the Giant’s Cups Trail.

IMG_0376 But there was no one highlight. The Giant’s Cup is all good. I left this one in the final cairn before dropping down to Bushman’s Nek.

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I saw a sign pointing to Bushman’s Nek hut, but ignored it as the trail looked faint.

Instead I stayed on the trail more trodden.

Turned out that took me to the KZN Wildlife office. I had to backtrack about 1km in the rain.

Alone again. Bushman’s Nek hut is in a very pretty location.

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It was nice to wash my dusty, hot feed in the nearby waterfall.

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Rather than sleep under a roof, I again set up my tent under cover. And watched the night fall.

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more photos from this day
___
Logistics

Next morning the KZN Wildlife office called a bush taxi from a local hotel. It took me to Underberg town for about $50 (expensive).

I was there for about 4hrs waiting for the mini-bus to Pietermaritzburg to fill. Though tourists are often advised not to take the local transport, in Underberg they are fairly used to shuttling hikers out from the Giant’s Cup.

You might consider starting at Bushman’s Nek and hiking to Sani Backpackers or Sani Pass Hotel. Travel logistics would be easier and cheaper if you don’t have your own vehicle.

If you wanted to hire a guide, I’d recommend booking through Drakensberg Adventures.

related:

Drakensberg Tourism

Giant’s Cup Trail Run 2014

• EKZ’s Giant’s Cup Trail page

• my hiking guidebook – Cicerone Walking in the Drakensberg

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

Giant’s Cup Trail, Drakensberg – day 2

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

Between low clouds, the morning dawned blue, sunny, HOT.

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This was the prettiest of the three days.

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This day I again saw a “wild dog” with one or two young ones. Unfortunately I wasn’t quick enough to zoom the camera in time.

Locals told me they were most likely hyena.

I covered up from the strong sun.

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Arriving Winterhoek hut under the trees.

Hikers are advised to lock everything up against baboon and eland.

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I had lunch here, in the shade.

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My biggest problem on the Giant’s Cup was the strong January sun. Locals thought I was crazy to be hiking in the hot, rainy season. I rested at as many shady spots as possible.

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I was surprised not to see more Dassie. This was one of the few I spotted.

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Late afternoon I slapped at something biting me under my pants. Turned out I’d killed a tic, the first that had ever bitten me. Contrary to common wisdom, I’d kicked it. After that I was quite ‘tic vigilant’. They can carry disease.

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I arrived Swiman hut at dusk, quite exhausted. Too exhausted to set up my tent, I crashed into a bunk. After I enjoyed a HOT SHOWER.

Again I was the only hiker in the hut that night.

I did see a caretaker next morning on my way out.

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more photos from this day

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

Giant’s Cup Trail, Drakensberg – day 1

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

One of Lonely Planet’s South Africa’s top five multiday hikes:

The Drakensberg Mountains, rising to 3482m (11,423ft) on the Lesotho border, are one of Africa’s greatest hiking destinations.

Numerous day and overnight walks crisscross this World Heritage Site …

map

Closest major city is Durban.

The famous path starts in appropriately grand fashion at the foot of Sani Pass, South Africa’s highest mountain pass. Passing through the Drakensberg foothills, the trail takes in the Bathplug Cave with San rock art, streams and pools for swimming and breathtaking mountain scenery.

The Giant’s Cup (3256m/10,682ft), from which the trail gets its name, overlooks the Cobham Nature Reserve’s shimmering expanses of grassland, upland lakes, rivers jumping with trout and slopes carpeted with pink proteas. At the southern tip of the Drakensberg, the Garden Castle Nature Reserve is overlooked by sandstone buttresses, caves and the 3051m (10,009ft) Rhino Peak.

The trail ends at Bushman’s Nek Pass, where you can continue into Lesotho on foot or horseback, or unlace your boots in nearby Underberg or Himeville.

The basic 30-person sleeping huts have bunk beds with mattresses, and waking among cairns and circling eagles is an uplifting wilderness experience. With daily distances ranging between 9km (5.6mi) and 13km (8mi), it’s not a strenuous hike and can be managed by younger walkers.

Russell Suchet, author of A Backpackers Guide to Lesotho, is owner of Sani Backpackers where I started.

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Russell and staff agreed that the Giant’s Cup was relatively “tame” for someone of my experience. With a tent.

But I loved it anyway. 🙂

Inexperienced in the Drakensberg, I took every precaution. I purchased maps and ($5ea at Sani Backpackers). And picked up the free “Giant’s Cup Trail Visitor’s Guide” trail description at the KZN Wildlife office at Pholela Hut.

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Hiking alone, it would have been nice to have a phone in case of emergencies. There is mobile service on most of the route. But I hadn’t bothered to pick up a SIM card for my Canadian phone. 😦

I paid about $8 / night to stay in the huts — even though I carried a tent.

Happy to support the KZN trail system, I wanted the OPTION to stay in the huts if necessary. If it poured rain, for example. It pours rain nearly every afternoon in January.

I carried too much food, adding home made cheese from Sani Backpackers.

I skipped the first 5km as I’d done it the previous day. Here are a few photos starting at Gxalingenwa Cave.

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These two ‘mericans had camped 2 nights in the overhang under a waterfall. Later I learned that you are not actually allowed to camp in that particular “cave”.

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Officially, the Giant’s Cup starts on the Sani Pass Road at Ezemvelo KZM Wildlife field ranger outpost at 2847m. I started instead by walking out the door of Sani Backpackers climbing up to intersect the route.

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That’s the Backpacker’s as seen from the parkland area fence.

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The trail is super well marked. You follow white footprints.

Some locals feel there is too much signage.

I missed paying for my trip & filling out the Mountain Rescue Register at the start. Russell advised me to — instead — do the paperwork at the KZN Wildlife Office near Pholela Hut. I arrived there about 1:30pm.

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Pholela Hut is a converted farmhouse offering 30 bunk beds in 4 rooms. Cold showers. Empty.

I carried on to the next hut.

Close to Pholela I saw my first herd of Eland.

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Close to that herd I caught a glimpse of an African dog. Most likely a jackal.

The bridges on this trail are not impressive.

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On the other hand, there’s no need to treat water in the Drakensberg.

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Green. Peaceful. Pretty.

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I arrived Mzimkhulwana Hut late and tired.

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Rather than sleep indoors, I set up my tent under protection.

Alone, I hid my passport, money and credit cards. Just in case some sneak thief arrived in the night. It was a bit spooky.

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Sipped wine. Ate my local cheese. Watched the night fall. Went to sleep early.

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more photos from this day

day 1 | day 2 | day 3

Namibia camping – Brandburg – day 2

We were up early, taking advantage of the cool of the morning.

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A desert garden at the White Lady Lodge.

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After breakfast we made a second “mountain climb” with the kids. 🙂

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The biggest “danger” of Namibian camping so far as I could tell were these deadly acacia thorns. I stepped on one. It went right through my shoe.

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We saw black-backed jackals lurking around the cooking fires a couple of times. And these locals.

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You must be TOUGH to survive this desert climate.

It had not rained at the White Lady lodge in 3 years — but it poured on us. Desert tents are not particularly waterproof.

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Our not particularly waterproof bedding was soaked. 😦

The Ugab River rarely runs.

Here’s the river bed before the rain.

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And after.

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Playing in mud is a big novelty for Namibian kids.

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We climbed yet another hillock.

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And it was back to camp for another gigantic barbecue.

Ugab Wilderness Campground opened 2001. I can recommend it. Particularly if you want a base camp for climbing Brandburg and/or hiking Messum crater.

see ALL my photos from this long weekend trip