besthike.com

September 30, 2011September 30, 2011

walk, trek, hike, stroll, ramble, tramp, hillwalk …

I really enjoyed this comment from Bruno Blackstone for myoutdoorstore.co.uk:

On UK TV during September 2011 was a really enjoyable and fascinating programme involving two UK comedians Rhod Gilbert and Greg Davies. Their task was to travel across Tibet by car from India to China, a feat that at first thought might not seem very challenging but the programme highlighted the chaos rife on Tibetan roads, from cattle on main highways to a landslide causing the road to literally slide away underneath them as they drove over it.

The programme highlighted the tensions surrounding opposing views on opening up the more remote areas held by tourists and locals but what really grabbed my attention was a quip by Rhod which was “what’s the difference between a walk and a trek – people over 40 go for a walk, if you are under 40 it’s a trek”.

This made me want to think about the terms we use for exploring the countryside on foot; walking rambling, trekking, hiking, strolling. So I tried searching in Wikipedia for walking:

“Walking (also known as ambulation) is one of the main gaits of locomotion among legged animals, and is typically slower than running and other gaits. Walking is defined by an ‘inverted pendulum’ gait in which the body vaults over the stiff limb or limbs with each step. This applies regardless of the number of limbs – even arthropods with six, eight or more limbs.”

That did not seem to capture it so I tried Hiking.

“Hiking is an outdoor activity which consists of walking in natural environments, often in mountainous or other scenic terrain.”

Now I felt I was getting closer. Wikipedia then helped further by informing me that

“Trekking is a long journey undertaken on foot in areas where common means of transport is generally not available. Trekking is not mountaineering; it is days of walking, along with adventure.”

However, I got confused again when I read

“Walking in the countryside is also called rambling, and walking in mountainous areas is called hillwalking.”

So I have decided to stick to strolling –

“Strolling is walking along or through at a leisurely pace”.

Strolling captures everything that I like about putting one leg in front of the other whilst outdoors. Enjoying the beautiful countryside that we are blessed with, looking and listening for wildlife, breathing the clean fresh air and, of course, it’s also good exercise

So as a confirmed stroller I’ll just leave the walking to other over 40’s and the trekking to the under 40’s.

Here’s a well deserved shout out:

Whether you are a walker, hiker, trekker, rambler or like me a stroller you’ll need to be prepared for any weather so click here myoutdoorstore.co.uk for the best deals in Waterproof Outdoor Clothing

All those terms are usable in English. I find that the most common term varies regionally. In Japan, for example, they tend to use “hiking”.

September 30, 2011

fleeing the Japanese Alps

by site editor Rick McCharles

Just arrived back to civilization. …

I’m near certain the most popular overnight hiking destination in Japan is Kamikōchi.

People go to walk high ridges and scramble Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳 Yari-ga-take), … one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. … 3,180 m (10,433 ft).

For two days we had perfect weather. (Trip report and photos coming soon.) I put up my tent on a ridge a couple of hundred metres beneath the “spear” (槍 yari).

The first night was fantastic, one of the best spots I’ve ever camped. Both sunset and sunrise.

… but the second night a raucous storm blew in at 10pm. Now I know why none of the Japanese selected such an exposed position.

I listened to an audio book all night, frantic to pack up my soaked belongings at first light, escaping directly to the Tokyo bus.

As a result I missed the infamous “Daikiretto” (die-key-ret-toe – all I see is ‘DIE’).

It will be too late in the season for me this Autumn, but one day I’d love to do the 65km Tate-Yama to Kamikochi traverse of the “Northern Alps”.

It’s somewhat similar to the GR20 in Corsica.

September 30, 2011September 24, 2011

John Muir Trail – Almost There

During the summer of 2011, a group of multimedia artists spent 25 days hiking the 219 mile long John Muir Trail. …

This is the first glimpse into their epic journey, accompanied by the single, ALMOST THERE by Opus Orange.

Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.

The John Muir Trail is our #2 hike in the world.

September 29, 2011October 10, 2011

advice – the GR20 trek in Corsica

by Rick McCharles, editor of besthike.com

I’ve hiked many of the best treks of the world. The GR20 compares favorably with the best of the best. But it’s very physically challenging, in fact the toughest hike I’ve ever done.

Read my 7 day trip report.

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

For me the start was extremely grueling. But at the summit of Mt. d’Oro, last day, I was feeling terrific.

If YOU are interested in taking on the “toughest hike in Western Europe”, here’s my advice.

Browse the best websites in English:

• Corsica.forHikers.com/gr20
• le-gr20.com/gb
• Wikipedia GR20

Order one or both of the two best Guidebooks in English:

• Trailblazer Corsica Trekking GR20 by David Abram (2008)
• Cicerone GR20: Corsica: The High-level route by Paddy Dillon (2010)

Both those books describe the trek north to south, but there’s no real reason you couldn’t do it in the opposite direction, leaving the most spectacular and difficult sections to the end.

I also bought Lonely Planet Corsica as a travel guidebook, but was less impressed than usual. The long predicted decline in quality of LP may be proven by this edition. If you are only going for the GR20, you may not need anything more than a trekking guide.

There are no dedicated “hiking maps” for the GR20 that I saw in 2011. The guidebooks are sufficient if you are going to stay on the main trails.

The trail is possible from early June through mid-October.
Best month to hike is June when water (and snow) is more available.

July and August can be VERY HOT. And crowded. Lightning storms frequently drive you off the heights by afternoon.

Keep to the highest (most difficult) route as much as possible.

Due to the wonderful climate, I’d recommend you sleep in a tent. Those can be rented at Refuges, but it’s safer to carry your own. I refused to stay under roof, myself. Refuges are noisy, crowded and unsanitary. That’s just me. Most hikers seem to like them.

Very little English is spoken on the GR20. You’ll need at least a smattering of French to survive.

My biggest mistake was carrying too much food and liquid. My pack was too heavy. Instead I should have carried more Euros and simply bought meals along the way at Refuges.

Most do this adventure independently, but you can sign on with a guiding company. Try …

• Walks Worldwide
• KE Travel Adventure

The easiest, cheapest way to get to Corsica is by Air. Try EasyJet first. Personally I enjoyed taking the overnight ferry to and from the island, saving the cost of accommodation both ways.

Questions? Suggestions?

Leave a comment if you’ve done the GR20 and have advice to add.

September 28, 2011October 10, 2011

GR20 Trek Corsica – day 7

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

Saturday, July 2nd, 2011

I was up early, following the rush of hikers up the mountain.

By now the 670m (2200ft) climb before breakfast was ho hum. It felt quite easy.

There’s no water (aside from snow) so everyone had bottles maxed out.

Simple. Follow the ridge. Scramble the peak on the left.

From here it’s only another 300m and some tricky scrambling to get to the summit of Monte d’Oro. On this perfect day, nobody opted for the lower (easier) route.

Soon I was caching a Summit Stone.

And enjoying the big view from 2389m.

All I talked to agreed the ascent was surprisingly easy that day. All dreaded the 1469m (4800ft) descent to the train station at Vizzavona.

I managed to find the steeper, shorter route. Knees and ankles feeling strong, it was not all that bad. My motivation was high knowing that I was going to finish today.

A couple of glisadding sections saved time. That’s the famed pyramid of d’Oro directly behind.

Arriving back in civilization, I joined fellow trekkers for an overpriced glass of wine in a restaurant. They had checked in to a hotel for one night, a splurge before continuing south on the GR20.

I, instead, tried to wash up at the (crappy) campsite.

And caught the next train to Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon.

By luck a ferry was leaving that night to return me to Nice, France. I enjoyed the nightlife (VIDEO), had a few too many Gelato cones and got on the boat. …

See more annotated photos from day 7.

Tomorrow I’ll post a wrap-up of the GR20 with advice for anyone who wants to test themselves on the “toughest hike in Western Europe”.

September 27, 2011October 10, 2011

GR20 Trek Corsica – day 6

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

Friday, July 1st, 2011

Good morning GR20.

Another perfect day. I’m loving the view from this ridge.

Up at elevation, the wild flowers were even better than down in the valley.

From the pass — Bocca Muzella — I could see the trail climbing the ridge across the valley. Sweet.

After scrambling down to Refuge Petra Piana, hikers asked where I had slept. … And were were envious.

The water source there was highly appreciated.

From here it’s a high, dry ridge walk. This is what the GR20 is all about.

I liked the looks of the pig proofed tent area. So decided to stop earlier than any other day.

That’s Refuge de L’Onda. The first campsite where I wasn’t totally exhausted on arrival.

… By this point I had resolved to hike only one more day, catching the train at Vizzavona. That would be enough GR20 for me.

See more annotated photos from day 6.

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Shout out for David Abram’s guidebook. Normally I hate cartoon not-to-scale maps, but the ones in this book are excellent. Very descriptive.

September 26, 2011October 10, 2011

GR20 Trek Corsica – day 5

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

Thursday, June 30th, 2011

The woods where I had tented were incredibly chewed up. Seems the forest floor is excavated by 45,000 feral pigs (VIDEO), though I saw none in a week.

Turned out I had camped quite close to the only road I would cross in a week, bringing hikers to Castel di Verghio ski station. There’s a hotel and camping, but most GR20 hikers slept in this Refuge.

Buses do stop here. But I’d decided to continue for at least 3 more days.

I joined the crowds departing at about 8am, descending into a lovely woods.

After about an hour in the trees, an easy trail winds up the hills to this oratory.

Like yesterday, it’s very easy hiking. This was the most rugged section.

I’d been waiting days for my first glimpse of Lac de Nino.

David Abram:

… an exquisite high-altitude lake cradled by 2000m+ peaks. … grazed by herds of wild horses. … this unique spot has an air curiously reminiscent of the Central Asian steppes. …

It’s certainly uniquely different than any other part of the GR20. But are these horses actually wild?

A treat. The only significant section of flat trail I tramped.

You could mountain bike this!

Mangaru Refuge was easily the tidiest of those I checked out.

It even has a modern recycling system.

From there it’s a 650m ascent to Breche de Capitellu 2225m.

The ridge section between the famous Breche de Capitellu (at 2225m the GR’s highest point) and Bocca Muzzela is a non-stop parade of stupendous scenery.

With the clouds blowing in and out, it reminded me of Machu Picchu.

Here’s the night view from my tent, my favourite camp site on the GR20.

See more annotated photos from day 5.

September 26, 2011September 26, 2011

Kamikochi – Yari – Hotaka Circuit, Japan

by site editor Rick McCharles

Already in Tokyo, I’m looking at tomorrow heading for the Northern Alps to hike out of Kamikōchi:

… a remote mountainous highland in the western portion of Nagano Prefecture, Japan, which has been preserved in its natural state. …

It is sometimes referred to as the “Japanese Yosemite,” although it is considerably smaller than its American counterpart. …

Lonely Planet Hiking in Japan:

34km

Japan’s classic alpine route.

GR20 Trek Corsica – day 4

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

Wednesday, June 29th, 2011

Surprisingly, I ended up again camping legally.

That’s Refuge de Tighjettu just above my tent.

What do you think ???

After my late arrival the previous night, crossing the Cirque of Solitude, I’d arrived at dusk. And departed early.

Tighjettu is known for it’s popularity (due to location) and ugliness.

Can you blame me for not wanting to sleep at these places?

There’s somewhat better accommodation a bit further on called Bergeries de Vallone. Since I wasn’t spending any money there, I found them unfriendly.

The walk down hill that morning was tranquil. I felt at peace.

In fact, I spent 40min studying the drama happening in a mountain stream pond, something I never do when hiking.

… The baby salamander was trying to eat the tadpole. Unsuccessfully.

The leisurely stroll ended with the trail starting the climb in the direction of Refuge de Ciottulu.

For the first and only time on the trek, I took the lower trail, saving an hour or so.

It was me and the cows down along the pretty river.

This was an amazingly mellow day compared to the 3 previous. The weather could not have been better.

This might be a mouflon, an endangered sheep. (I believe it is, though I saw dozens of the supposedly shy beasts. Fewer than a 1000 remain.)

Feeling strong, I walked until dusk. Finally setting up my tent in some tall trees.

See more annotated photos from day 4.

September 24, 2011October 10, 2011

solo in the Cirque of Solitude

by Rick McCharles, editor of besthike.com

» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |

The Cirque de la Solitude is the crux of the GR20, one of the best and toughest hikes in the world.

Certainly it was the toughest trek of my life.

Tom Fordyce in The Guardian:

… The Cirque de la Solitude is the most notorious single section of the entire GR20. People are so scared of it that they huddle in petrified groups the night before, exchanging horror stories …

The Cirque turns out to be both gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. After 800m of rope-free climbing up, there’s 300m of straight down – straight down as in sheer rock-face, without even any pretense of a path. As a sop to the cowardly, there are some old chains bracketed into the smooth granite. … there’s nothing but the occasional spiky outcrop between you and the valley floor 1,200m below. …

Europe’s toughest trek: Corsica’s GR20

See more Cirque photos on Flickr.

Yet the feared Cirque of Solitude turned out to be the highlight of my GR20.

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

I arrived late afternoon, the last 3 hikers (rock climbers) of the day having just finished crossing from the opposite direction. Each warned me of the seriousness of the traverse … in multiple languages.

Finally, alone, I dropped into the chasm.

Chain assistance is essential when the rock is wet.

In perfect conditions, I didn’t need them.

But I did need this on the ascent of the far side cliff, a steel ladder.

Moving slowly, carefully, I took about 2hrs to make the crossing, arriving at the far side just in time to ‘turn out the lights’.

Relieved to have achieved and survived, I was even more elated to have done it solitary.

Hikers joke about the name — Cirque of Solitude — as there is normally a log jam of folks bottle-necked at critical points. The main risk, in fact, is rock fall from someone above your fall line.

_____

This VIDEO gives a better idea of the challenge. Or this VIDEO (1min 30sec), in bad weather.

_____

Want to start planning your trek to Corsica?

Best Guidebooks in English:

• Trailblazer Corsica Trekking GR20 by David Abram (2008)
• Cicerone GR20: Corsica: The High-level route by Paddy Dillon (2010)