Best hikes, treks, tramps in the world.
During the summer of 2011, a group of multimedia artists spent 25 days hiking the 219 mile long John Muir Trail. …
This is the first glimpse into their epic journey, accompanied by the single, ALMOST THERE by Opus Orange.
Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.
The John Muir Trail is our #2 hike in the world.
by Rick McCharles, editor of besthike.com
I’ve hiked many of the best treks of the world. The GR20 compares favorably with the best of the best. But it’s very physically challenging, in fact the toughest hike I’ve ever done.
Read my 7 day trip report.
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
For me the start was extremely grueling. But at the summit of Mt. d’Oro, last day, I was feeling terrific.
If YOU are interested in taking on the “toughest hike in Western Europe”, here’s my advice.
Browse the best websites in English:
• Corsica.forHikers.com/gr20
• le-gr20.com/gb
• Wikipedia GR20
Order one or both of the two best Guidebooks in English:
• Trailblazer Corsica Trekking GR20 by David Abram (2008)
• Cicerone GR20: Corsica: The High-level route by Paddy Dillon (2010)
Both those books describe the trek north to south, but there’s no real reason you couldn’t do it in the opposite direction, leaving the most spectacular and difficult sections to the end.
I also bought Lonely Planet Corsica as a travel guidebook, but was less impressed than usual. The long predicted decline in quality of LP may be proven by this edition. If you are only going for the GR20, you may not need anything more than a trekking guide.
There are no dedicated “hiking maps” for the GR20 that I saw in 2011. The guidebooks are sufficient if you are going to stay on the main trails.
The trail is possible from early June through mid-October.
Best month to hike is June when water (and snow) is more available.
July and August can be VERY HOT. And crowded. Lightning storms frequently drive you off the heights by afternoon.
Keep to the highest (most difficult) route as much as possible.
Due to the wonderful climate, I’d recommend you sleep in a tent. Those can be rented at Refuges, but it’s safer to carry your own. I refused to stay under roof, myself. Refuges are noisy, crowded and unsanitary. That’s just me. Most hikers seem to like them.
Very little English is spoken on the GR20. You’ll need at least a smattering of French to survive.
My biggest mistake was carrying too much food and liquid. My pack was too heavy. Instead I should have carried more Euros and simply bought meals along the way at Refuges.
Most do this adventure independently, but you can sign on with a guiding company. Try …
• Walks Worldwide
• KE Travel Adventure
The easiest, cheapest way to get to Corsica is by Air. Try EasyJet first. Personally I enjoyed taking the overnight ferry to and from the island, saving the cost of accommodation both ways.
Questions? Suggestions?
Leave a comment if you’ve done the GR20 and have advice to add.
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Saturday, July 2nd, 2011
I was up early, following the rush of hikers up the mountain.
By now the 670m (2200ft) climb before breakfast was ho hum. It felt quite easy.
There’s no water (aside from snow) so everyone had bottles maxed out.
Simple. Follow the ridge. Scramble the peak on the left.
From here it’s only another 300m and some tricky scrambling to get to the summit of Monte d’Oro. On this perfect day, nobody opted for the lower (easier) route.
Soon I was caching a Summit Stone.
And enjoying the big view from 2389m.
All I talked to agreed the ascent was surprisingly easy that day. All dreaded the 1469m (4800ft) descent to the train station at Vizzavona.
I managed to find the steeper, shorter route. Knees and ankles feeling strong, it was not all that bad. My motivation was high knowing that I was going to finish today.
A couple of glisadding sections saved time. That’s the famed pyramid of d’Oro directly behind.
Arriving back in civilization, I joined fellow trekkers for an overpriced glass of wine in a restaurant. They had checked in to a hotel for one night, a splurge before continuing south on the GR20.
I, instead, tried to wash up at the (crappy) campsite.
And caught the next train to Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon.
By luck a ferry was leaving that night to return me to Nice, France. I enjoyed the nightlife (VIDEO), had a few too many Gelato cones and got on the boat. …
See more annotated photos from day 7.
Tomorrow I’ll post a wrap-up of the GR20 with advice for anyone who wants to test themselves on the “toughest hike in Western Europe”.
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Friday, July 1st, 2011
Good morning GR20.
Another perfect day. I’m loving the view from this ridge.
Up at elevation, the wild flowers were even better than down in the valley.
From the pass — Bocca Muzella — I could see the trail climbing the ridge across the valley. Sweet.
After scrambling down to Refuge Petra Piana, hikers asked where I had slept. … And were were envious.
The water source there was highly appreciated.
From here it’s a high, dry ridge walk. This is what the GR20 is all about.
I liked the looks of the pig proofed tent area. So decided to stop earlier than any other day.
That’s Refuge de L’Onda. The first campsite where I wasn’t totally exhausted on arrival.
… By this point I had resolved to hike only one more day, catching the train at Vizzavona. That would be enough GR20 for me.
See more annotated photos from day 6.
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Shout out for David Abram’s guidebook. Normally I hate cartoon not-to-scale maps, but the ones in this book are excellent. Very descriptive.
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Thursday, June 30th, 2011
The woods where I had tented were incredibly chewed up. Seems the forest floor is excavated by 45,000 feral pigs (VIDEO), though I saw none in a week.
Turned out I had camped quite close to the only road I would cross in a week, bringing hikers to Castel di Verghio ski station. There’s a hotel and camping, but most GR20 hikers slept in this Refuge.
Buses do stop here. But I’d decided to continue for at least 3 more days.
I joined the crowds departing at about 8am, descending into a lovely woods.
After about an hour in the trees, an easy trail winds up the hills to this oratory.
Like yesterday, it’s very easy hiking. This was the most rugged section.
I’d been waiting days for my first glimpse of Lac de Nino.
David Abram:
… an exquisite high-altitude lake cradled by 2000m+ peaks. … grazed by herds of wild horses. … this unique spot has an air curiously reminiscent of the Central Asian steppes. …
It’s certainly uniquely different than any other part of the GR20. But are these horses actually wild?
A treat. The only significant section of flat trail I tramped.
You could mountain bike this!
Mangaru Refuge was easily the tidiest of those I checked out.
It even has a modern recycling system.
From there it’s a 650m ascent to Breche de Capitellu 2225m.
The ridge section between the famous Breche de Capitellu (at 2225m the GR’s highest point) and Bocca Muzzela is a non-stop parade of stupendous scenery.
With the clouds blowing in and out, it reminded me of Machu Picchu.
Here’s the night view from my tent, my favourite camp site on the GR20.
by site editor Rick McCharles
Already in Tokyo, I’m looking at tomorrow heading for the Northern Alps to hike out of Kamikōchi:
… a remote mountainous highland in the western portion of Nagano Prefecture, Japan, which has been preserved in its natural state. …
It is sometimes referred to as the “Japanese Yosemite,” although it is considerably smaller than its American counterpart. …
Lonely Planet Hiking in Japan:
34km
Japan’s classic alpine route.
Leave a comment if you’ve hiked here.
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Wednesday, June 29th, 2011
Surprisingly, I ended up again camping legally.
That’s Refuge de Tighjettu just above my tent.
What do you think ???
After my late arrival the previous night, crossing the Cirque of Solitude, I’d arrived at dusk. And departed early.
Tighjettu is known for it’s popularity (due to location) and ugliness.
Can you blame me for not wanting to sleep at these places?
There’s somewhat better accommodation a bit further on called Bergeries de Vallone. Since I wasn’t spending any money there, I found them unfriendly.
The walk down hill that morning was tranquil. I felt at peace.
In fact, I spent 40min studying the drama happening in a mountain stream pond, something I never do when hiking.
… The baby salamander was trying to eat the tadpole. Unsuccessfully.
The leisurely stroll ended with the trail starting the climb in the direction of Refuge de Ciottulu.
For the first and only time on the trek, I took the lower trail, saving an hour or so.
It was me and the cows down along the pretty river.
This was an amazingly mellow day compared to the 3 previous. The weather could not have been better.
This might be a mouflon, an endangered sheep. (I believe it is, though I saw dozens of the supposedly shy beasts. Fewer than a 1000 remain.)
Feeling strong, I walked until dusk. Finally setting up my tent in some tall trees.
by Rick McCharles, editor of besthike.com
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
The Cirque de la Solitude is the crux of the GR20, one of the best and toughest hikes in the world.
Certainly it was the toughest trek of my life.
Tom Fordyce in The Guardian:
… The Cirque de la Solitude is the most notorious single section of the entire GR20. People are so scared of it that they huddle in petrified groups the night before, exchanging horror stories …
The Cirque turns out to be both gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. After 800m of rope-free climbing up, there’s 300m of straight down – straight down as in sheer rock-face, without even any pretense of a path. As a sop to the cowardly, there are some old chains bracketed into the smooth granite. … there’s nothing but the occasional spiky outcrop between you and the valley floor 1,200m below. …
See more Cirque photos on Flickr.
Yet the feared Cirque of Solitude turned out to be the highlight of my GR20.
Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
I arrived late afternoon, the last 3 hikers (rock climbers) of the day having just finished crossing from the opposite direction. Each warned me of the seriousness of the traverse … in multiple languages.
Finally, alone, I dropped into the chasm.
Chain assistance is essential when the rock is wet.
In perfect conditions, I didn’t need them.
But I did need this on the ascent of the far side cliff, a steel ladder.
Moving slowly, carefully, I took about 2hrs to make the crossing, arriving at the far side just in time to ‘turn out the lights’.
Relieved to have achieved and survived, I was even more elated to have done it solitary.
Hikers joke about the name — Cirque of Solitude — as there is normally a log jam of folks bottle-necked at critical points. The main risk, in fact, is rock fall from someone above your fall line.
_____
This VIDEO gives a better idea of the challenge. Or this VIDEO (1min 30sec), in bad weather.
_____
Want to start planning your trek to Corsica?
Best Guidebooks in English:
• Trailblazer Corsica Trekking GR20 by David Abram (2008)
• Cicerone GR20: Corsica: The High-level route by Paddy Dillon (2010)
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
I awoke feeling surprisingly refreshed. But standing up reminded me that my hamstrings had cramped in the middle of the night, in the tent. Severely.
It was essential that I not strain hiking today. That I relax.
… Unfortunately the very start of the day was tough. Crossing the creek on a suspension bridge … and looking at the 750m climb to Bocca a i Stagnu.
This exact spot is where many hikers quit. (There’s an exit back down to the coast via Bonifatu.)
I persisted, scrambling the Spasimata slabs.
You can see that many from the Refuge started together. These kind of rush hour crowds are another reason I prefer tenting in the wild.
There are cables to assist, not needed when dry, but essential when the granite is wet.
It’s a good idea to start up the slabs early, taking advantage of the morning shade.
My obligatory photo of the North American Indian rock …
At the top the GR20 drops down to a ski resort and road — forget that. The high line, instead, is a route finding challenge along the Muvrella Ridge.
I LOVED this section though it was very slow going. That’s the normal GR20 route far below …
Once (eventually) down in the valley, I enjoyed the easiest hiking so far, even taking time to cool my feet.
During the afternoon I pretty much had the trail south to myself as there’s no Refuge before the infamous Cirque de la Solitude, the crux of the GR20.
I was thrilled to be walking so much better today. (It would have been a crushing disappointment to travel all the way to Corsica and miss the Cirque.)
… I planned to wild camp somewhere high and make the famous traverse next morning. It looks pretty thrilling from the photos.
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Monday, June 27th, 2011
I “wild camped” (technically illegal) awaking to the gorgeous vistas of the High Corse.
At this point, I wasn’t sure how strict were the prohibitions against tenting. When I reached the first Refuge, it would be obvious that I must have slept out.
Happily, nobody seems to care on the GR20. There are no “Park Rangers”. But be discrete.
Mountain huts are spaced at regular intervals on the GR20. Hikers are asked to stay at either a Refuge, or at other official accommodation. Bivouacking is not allowed. Surprisingly, I saw no sign that anyone else but me wild camped. People seem to like the Refuges.
Personally, I found Refuge Ortu di u Piobbu quite unappealing. The building sleeps 30. Or you can cram into the cattle proof enclosure with your tent.
Water availability, however, often decides where you can and cannot camp. It’s ill advised ever to walk past one of these water sources …
The trail seeks to stay as high as possible. Wonderful. But physically challenging, especially with a heavy pack. In sunshine, everyone takes the high route. (Low level alternatives are used in winter and foul weather.)
Hot and dry, I cursed my stupidity at carrying so much food when (somewhat expensive) delicious meals are available at the Refuges. It’s very easy to eat at Refuges without sleeping there.
End of June, wild flowers are still a highlight on the GR20.
Day 2 had much less elevation gain, but many tricky scrambling sections, most notably the traverse of Capu Ladroncellu’s south face.
The GR 20 was envisioned as a ridge walk along the spine of the island. As such, the trail often switches from one side of a rocky ridge to the next, maximizing views on both sides.
… slippery rock slabs, through tight corridors, past wind-eroded breaches, overlooking dizzying drops, and down stretches of precipitous, loose shale …
I had hoped to bypass the next campground, Refuge de Carrozzu, but couldn’t quickly find a flat alternative out of sight of the trail. Exhausted, I backtracked and took a tent site.
That Refuge is swarming with ants! Those sleeping under the stars were bothered, but my 1-man coffin (MSR Hubba tent) is secure from insects.
It’s possible to rent-a-tent in case of bad weather … or ant attack. Most rentals are Quechua brand.
At Carrozzu I learned that Refuges are not all bad. Most provide cold showers, for one perk. …
This suspension bridge over an excellent swimming hole is the signature photo op of this Refuge.
It was here too that I saw my first Orchid. Lovely.
See more annotated photos from day 2.
_____
I slept as if in a coma, again, night 2. But still worried whether or not I was going to finish the entire 180km+ GR20.
Two hikers I spoke with that evening had decided to quit here, both with horrific blisters.
Then in the middle of the night I awoke suddenly, both hamstrings cramped. (… I’ve had a history of muscular cramping after strenuous exercise.)
Will I be able to finish this adventure?
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