I woke up surprised to see a winter wonderland outside my window.
October 22nd, Calgary, Canada.
I put on my winter jacket and headed out quickly to enjoy the clean, white fresh stuff — watching for Bobcat tracks. My neighbourhood is the only place I’ve ever seen Bobcat.
The gateway to the wonderful Lofoten archipelago is the town of Bodø, the end of the train line north.
It’s usually cheaper and easier to fly as the train is a 17 hour overnight journey from Oslo. The town is so compact that you can easily walk from the airport to the train station.
On my two trips to the awesome Lofoten hikes, I’ve spent quite a few days in Bodø — supposedly in transit.
Though I had to cancel my planned 3000km bikepacking adventure after SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) left my bike box at Heathrow for over a month 🤨, I still enjoyed my 4-5 weeks above the Arctic Circle.
Tourism is focused on the environment and is centered on Longyearbyen. Activities include hiking, kayaking, walks through glacier caves, and snowmobile and dog-sled safari. Cruise ships generate a significant portion of the traffic …
Inspired by Cam Honan’s 2018 adventure, I set out for the Long Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) hiking route through the spectacular heart of the island chain.
It’s not all that popular yet. In fact, AllTrails doesn’t have it. And it has every trail everywhere.
After one day — 9 hours in perfect weather — I’ve decided to QUIT. That day was too difficult and too dangerous for me carrying a heavy pack.
Olderfjorden pass
It LOOKS easy in the photo. But it’s mostly route finding through marshy terrain. Worst was a risky descent clutching a water pipe and safety ropes. Starting up near the top of the waterfall.
I’ll follow the general path of the Long Crossing. But camp low. And climb high with a day pack. Weather will dictate which established day hikes I choose.
I’ll be following recommendations set out in the Rando-Lofoten guidebook by Souyris & Brede:
Senja is even further north than famed Lofoten archipelago , but is equally spectacular in places.
The jumping off point is remote Fjordgård, not easy to reach by bicycle.
I camped for free along the ocean. A very windy night.
The east side of Segla starts rising gently, whereas the steep cliffs on the west side drop directly into the fjord. The EASY route is still challenging near the top. You’ll be using your hands.
BUT first it’s recommended to do the Hesten hike, rewarding you with the most impressive looks at the peak. 3.7 km return. Hesten is 556m.
Next climb Segla itself, if you have the energy.
Around 4km return. Perhaps 2 hours up, 1 hour down — IF you move steadily. Weather is the main factor. It can switch from sun to rain storm in just a few minutes.
Personally, I wasn’t all that impressed by Blåisvatnet. There are gorgeous lakes everywhere in Norway. For me this wasn’t anything special.
In fact, I preferred another hike even closer to Svensby ➙ I had the Barheia summit all to myself. The much-more-famous Blue Lake was super crowded the day I was there.