Manaslu Circuit – day 6

by site editor Rick McCharles

This would be the longest day so far. And the most stunning yet.

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Permit check first thing in the morning.

Local people and their landscape grows increasingly Tibetan as you ascend. Each village from here on up had it’s own monastery (Gompa).

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It was well below freezing last night.

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Still, when the sun comes out, hikers strip off their many layers quickly.

Rick, Brion, Betsy, Mike
Rick, Brion, Betsy, Mike

I was astonished at what can still grow at these altitudes.

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We stopped at Lho 3180m for lunch. The pack animals tried to join us at the table.

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Some stayed at Lho for acclimatization. Tempting.

Lho has the very best views of Manaslu!

Gompa

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It’s the cover photo for our hiking guidebook.

Manaslu Guidebook

This is why you hike the Himalaya. 🙂

We all felt good here at 3180m, so we pushed on to Sama 3530m.

The afternoon was fantastic, too. Grasslands of the Tibetan plateau support grazing animals nearly all year round.

Yak, Yak, Yak
Yak, Yak, Yak

There are plenty of mountain ponies, too. Used for transport.

pony

You can rent a pony to carry you up. Or down, if you are feeling altitude sickness.

A doctor on Annapurna told us of a young Japanese hiker who’s guide put him on a pony to carry him over a high Pass there. He died of HACE or HAPE en route. 😦

We unpacked for two nights in Sama. (Samagaon) 3530m This would be our acclimatization rest day.

Sama is a surprisingly big village of about 1000 residents. Big lodges. Well stocked stores. Good restaurants. We even checked email there, the internet having arrived only 3 months prior. (2013)

Speed of the internet was good. But the computers and notebooks available to rent were atrocious. Almost unusable.

Increased tourism is needed in this town, I feel. Check the Samagaun Development Foundation blog.

Rent a tent.

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One downside of sleeping indoors rather than in a tent are rodents. In some guest houses you are kept awake by their scurrying. I even saw one in the dining room at 4470m.

see high resolution photos from this day on flickr

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Kuari Pass trek – day 6

by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

We arose at first light last morning, the coldest yet.

dawn - Kuari day 6

dawn - Kuari day 6-2

frost - Kuari day 6

Our adopted dog was quick to the fire.

dog warming up - Kuari day 6

last morning Camp - Kuari day 6

Nanda Devi - Kuari day 6

I’d have to rate the day before and the two days after Kuari as about as good as hiking gets.

pack mule - Kuari day 6

Kuari day 6

Kuari day 6-2

Kuari day 6-3

Kuari day 6-4

Kuari day 6-5

Our guide was happy to get back to mobile phone service. He confirmed out pick-up time.

Kuari day 6-7

phone service reached - Kuari day 6

We wandered lazily down through huge alpine meadows. Please that the trek had been a success.

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Reaching this Hindu Temple having connection to great epic Ramayana means you’ve almost completed the Kuari.

Hindu Temple - Kuari day 6

We finished at the Auli Ski Resort, India’s finest. (Ski Jan-March.) Asia’s longest Cable Car (4km) is a must. The road to get there is deadly. This was one of the hosts of the 1st South Asian Winter Games in 2011.

Auli ski lift - Kuari day 6

Auli - Kuari day 6

Auli - Kuari day 6-2

Our driver was waiting just outside the gates. 🙂

Red Chili van at Auli - Kuari day 6

It was 10hrs back to Rishikesh with a hotel stop en route.

The most dangerous aspect of Himalaya trekking by far is the drive to and from the trailheads. Washouts and landslides are frequent.

road wash out near Joshimath Kuari day 6

road wash out near Joshimath Kuari day 6-2

OK. The giant spider we found awaiting us at our (Le Meadows) Hotel room might look even scarier. 🙂

BIG spider at hotel - Kuari day 6
Before the trek I knew about the June flooding, but not exactly how bad it had been. More than 5700 dead. 😦

One of the 4 Holy Hindu mountain temples, nearby Kedarnath, was inundated with water, mud and boulders from landslide.  Several died from drowning or being crushed by stampeding pilgrims.

Yet the roads were back to “normal” by October.

See all high resolution photos from this day.

End.

If you might be interested in trekking Kuari yourself, start with our Kuari Trek information page. 🙂

 

Kuari Pass trek – day 2

by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

Packing up next morning I was surprised to find that we’d added 2 more pack animals. They carried feed for our 4 mules.

Kuari day 2-2

Kuari day 2

So two helpless “Sahibs” needed an Expedition Team of 4 men (guide, cook, 2 mule drivers). A minimum of 4 beasts. This morning, 6 beasts.

To walk.

Dogs hang about Camps waiting on the compost.

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Seems they’ll eat anything except citrus peel and onions.

Up and up.

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We passed many villages. All seemingly prosperous and well maintained.

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Grazing is critical. Stone fences seem to demarcate who grazes where. But I’m not sure those boundaries are often contested.

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We saw a number of the great birds of India.

The Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) soared above and below us for much of the trip.

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Our guide urged us to drink as much water as possible as we acclimatized to altitude.

Kuari day 2-8

On arrival at our night’s Camp we were surprised by a freak hail storm.

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The larger 2-man, 4-season tent was provided by Red Chilli.

But I used my own 1-man tent instead. Alf got the Tent Mahal for himself. 🙂

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We Sahibs read in our tents while our Team got a fire started with wet wood.

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You’ve got to be ready for anything in the Himalaya.

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See all high resolution photos from this day.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

BBC Natural World – Himalaya

Kraig Becker:

…The video below is a full episode of that series which happens to be focused on one of my favorite places – the Himalaya. If you have 49 minutes to spare, you’ll get a great look at those mountains and the people that live there, with some of the most breathtaking scenery you’ll find anywhere. So sit back, turn up the volume and enjoy the show. It is one of the greatest on Earth.

Adventure Blog

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I’m doing some research for a planned trip to the BIG mountains.

Laugavegur trek, Iceland

James Handlon signed on with adventure travel company Arctic Adventures to finally trek Laugavegur.

After several hours of bumpy off-roading we finally arrived late in the day at the Landmannalaugar campsite, a weird mix of surreal landscape, Glastonbury Music Festival and refugee camp all thrown together creating the most bizarre of places to start a trek .…

Landmannalaugar campsite

Gorgeous.

weird landscape

Read his entire trip report following the links from the bottom of THE LAUGAVEGUR ICELANDIC TREK – DAY 1 page.

Alastair Humphreys – Greenland

In the last 100 years, twelve people have stood on the moon, more than 500 have been into space, and more than five thousand have climbed Everest. Yet the journey Captain Scott and his team died trying to complete a century ago remains unrealised. No one has ever walked from the coast of Antarctica to the South Pole and back again.

… Ben Saunders, Alastair Humphreys and Martin Hartley take on arguably the most ambitious polar expedition in the last century: the four-month Scott 2012 – the first return journey to the South Pole on foot, and at 1,800 miles, the longest unsupported polar journey in history. …

Click PLAY or watch 2012 training expedition on Vimeo.

The Scott Expedition did not go in 2012.

Instead, an expanded Team starts October 2013. Wish them luck.

Dientes de Navarino, Patagonia

The most southern hike in the world on the Chilean Isla Navarino leads you off the beaten track and through unspoiled nature and wild landscapes of Tierra del Fuego, far away from civilization.

From Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino we prepare ourselves for this unique hike around the “Dientes de Navarino” – mountain chain. During this hike we will walk through mystical southern beech forests, cross vast snowfields and have an impressive view over the Beagle channel. …

dragon 2

Dates 2013-14
16-nov – 22-nov-2013
13-dic – 19-dic-2013
15-jan – 21-jan-2014
12-feb – 18-feb-2014

Other departure dates on request.

Price per person (Based on double occupancy)
USD 1890.-

read more …

 

Check out Dientes information page.

trekking the Indian Himalaya

by site editor Rick McCharles

We’ve moved and updated our Indian Himalaya introduction page.

If you’ve trekked there, check it for errors and omissions.

india-map

I’m hoping to do some personal research this Autumn.

Fly Dehli to Leh mid-October. Do Ladadh.

If possible, next do at least one trek in the Nandi Devi region.

Third priority is Nepal (my 5th trip) or Sikkim (my 2nd trip).

My preference is to trek independently. Carrying my own pack.

Wish me luck. 🙂