Manaslu Circuit – day 9

by site editor Rick McCharles

Today was the day. We’d cross Larkya La.

nepal-dia.de

  • 2am wake up … plenty of noise in Camp
  • 2:30am packed up my tent
  • 3:00am breakfast … terrible oatmeal, OK pancake, litre of coffee
  • 3:30am intended start

We actually got going nearer to 4am. And it’s plenty cold standing around in the dark.

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I was counting on a bright full moon.

Sadly for me, it had set long before 4am.

Finally setting off, we attempted to catch Tasha and Ivan. Breathing was difficult. Vision was worse. I finally had to step out of line to change batteries in my headlamp.

This first 45min was the worst part of the Manaslu Circuit for me, so far. 😦

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Whilst moving, you are not cold.

Things got better as the sky lightened.

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Glorious when the sun finally appeared atop the high peaks.

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It was good to be alive when sunshine hits you in the face this high up.

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At this point we were completely confident in crossing Larkya. We could relax.

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This was like any winter in my Canadian Great White North.

We were surprised how quickly we reached Larkya La 5106m (16,751ft).

Ivan and Tasha
Ivan and Tasha

We’d started early to avoid severe wind here. Happily, there was very little wind.

Rick Mc
Rick Mc

I left a Summit Stone in thanks for safe passage.

The descent should be easy.

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Actually, it was quite challenging on one long, steep section.

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Porters, in particular, were slipping and falling. I can see why this Pass could be closed after a snow storm.

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It’s a little more treacherous than it looks.

You skirt the glacier before getting back to reasonable footing.

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Some make a side trip to visit the glacial lake. We skipped it.

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Once finally down down, the trail is easy.

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Smiles on our faces, we arrived Bimtang 3720m.

P1260057Civilization.

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That might be the finest guest house we saw on the Circuit. Private cabins. It was booked, of course. By large groups of French trekkers.

It was early in the day. Mike and I were the 3rd & 4th hikers to arrive. Tasha and Ivan were 1st & 2nd.

It takes most hikers 6-10hrs to make the crossing. Much longer, of course, if you start in Samdo rather than Larkya Phedi.

We took the chance to bathe in the sun. The river was flowing, but water taps at our guest house were frozen.

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And do some laundry.

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I again walked the moraine ridge above Camp at sunset. But it wasn’t nearly as inspiring as the night before. Things are a bit anticlimactic after crossing the Pass.

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We chatted through dinner. Went to bed early. I slept 11hrs straight through.

Note: One woman had fallen the day before we crossed the Pass. Hit her head. Though continuing immediately, she had a suspected concussion. She was resting in Bintang. Make sure your travel insurance covers hiking at altitude.

see high resolution photos from this day on flickr

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Manaslu Circuit – day 8

by site editor Rick McCharles

We got an early start out of Samo.

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Manaslu was perfect. Cloudless.

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Not even spindrift, rare for an 8000m peak.

This is why you want to trek in November / early December.

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Mike and I were happy to have the weather. Wanted to get up and over the Pass as soon as possible. If he were to have to backtrack to the start, he’d miss his flight back to the U.K.

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The arid terrain that high up was very Tibetan.

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Not much can live in this climate. Yet Yaks thrive.

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The scenery is fantastic. You hike closer to the big peaks than anywhere else I’ve been in Nepal.

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I was one happy hiker.

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Some trek from Samo only to Samdo 3690m. Then make a long, long day climbing over the 5106m Larkya Pass.

Sounds crazy to me. But it worked for a German couple we had been hiking with.  Their guide doesn’ t like Larkya Phedi 4470m (Dharmsala).

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Larkya Phedi is a harsh place. In every way.

It was closed by MCAP in 2011 for being an “illegal structure”. But open since. Open normally until about Dec 15th each season. Food sometimes runs out before that date, however. Some years hikers eat nothing but potatoes before crossing the Pass.

We knew fresh eggs had arrived.

eggs

Larkya Phedi is the last place you can sleep with a roof over your head. … On the other hand, there were no beds left when we arrived. When the Pass is closed, it gets very crowded here. 😦

We set up my tent on a snow patch.I wouldn’t be getting much sleep anyway. Wake-up time would be 2am.

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Hikers tried to relax in the sun. Nap if they could.

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It got very cold as the sun went down.

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Toilets are overflowing with feces. They don’t stink. They are frozen.

Ivan saw one Nepali shit into the stream above Camp. The only source of drinking water. That’s how uneducated some of the porters are. That’s why the water is so dangerous in Nepal.

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We walked the ridge above Camp for acclimatization. And to stay warm. There were dozens of Blue Sheep up there. Until hikers scared them away.

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I practiced various speeds walking both uphill and downhill to maintain an optimal temperature. This in anticipation of the Pass, considered much more difficult than Thorung La on Annapurna.

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Wandering alone up there until dark, this was the single highlight of the entire trek for me. 🙂

Wonderful.

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Mike and I lingered in the dining hall as late as we possibly could. Staying warm. And avoiding our cold tents. Mike and our guide were forced to share a rent a tent as all beds were taken. Porters slept on these tables and benches starting 10pm.

Last minute I ordered hot water for my Nalgene bottle, using it inside my sleeping bag to warm my feet. Temperature dropped to at least -15C. (5F)

It would be a very short night …

see high resolution photos from this day on flickr

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Manaslu Circuit – day 6

by site editor Rick McCharles

This would be the longest day so far. And the most stunning yet.

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Permit check first thing in the morning.

Local people and their landscape grows increasingly Tibetan as you ascend. Each village from here on up had it’s own monastery (Gompa).

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It was well below freezing last night.

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Still, when the sun comes out, hikers strip off their many layers quickly.

Rick, Brion, Betsy, Mike
Rick, Brion, Betsy, Mike

I was astonished at what can still grow at these altitudes.

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We stopped at Lho 3180m for lunch. The pack animals tried to join us at the table.

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Some stayed at Lho for acclimatization. Tempting.

Lho has the very best views of Manaslu!

Gompa

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It’s the cover photo for our hiking guidebook.

Manaslu Guidebook

This is why you hike the Himalaya. 🙂

We all felt good here at 3180m, so we pushed on to Sama 3530m.

The afternoon was fantastic, too. Grasslands of the Tibetan plateau support grazing animals nearly all year round.

Yak, Yak, Yak
Yak, Yak, Yak

There are plenty of mountain ponies, too. Used for transport.

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You can rent a pony to carry you up. Or down, if you are feeling altitude sickness.

A doctor on Annapurna told us of a young Japanese hiker who’s guide put him on a pony to carry him over a high Pass there. He died of HACE or HAPE en route. 😦

We unpacked for two nights in Sama. (Samagaon) 3530m This would be our acclimatization rest day.

Sama is a surprisingly big village of about 1000 residents. Big lodges. Well stocked stores. Good restaurants. We even checked email there, the internet having arrived only 3 months prior. (2013)

Speed of the internet was good. But the computers and notebooks available to rent were atrocious. Almost unusable.

Increased tourism is needed in this town, I feel. Check the Samagaun Development Foundation blog.

Rent a tent.

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One downside of sleeping indoors rather than in a tent are rodents. In some guest houses you are kept awake by their scurrying. I even saw one in the dining room at 4470m.

see high resolution photos from this day on flickr

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Kuari Pass trek – day 6

by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

We arose at first light last morning, the coldest yet.

dawn - Kuari day 6

dawn - Kuari day 6-2

frost - Kuari day 6

Our adopted dog was quick to the fire.

dog warming up - Kuari day 6

last morning Camp - Kuari day 6

Nanda Devi - Kuari day 6

I’d have to rate the day before and the two days after Kuari as about as good as hiking gets.

pack mule - Kuari day 6

Kuari day 6

Kuari day 6-2

Kuari day 6-3

Kuari day 6-4

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Our guide was happy to get back to mobile phone service. He confirmed out pick-up time.

Kuari day 6-7

phone service reached - Kuari day 6

We wandered lazily down through huge alpine meadows. Please that the trek had been a success.

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Reaching this Hindu Temple having connection to great epic Ramayana means you’ve almost completed the Kuari.

Hindu Temple - Kuari day 6

We finished at the Auli Ski Resort, India’s finest. (Ski Jan-March.) Asia’s longest Cable Car (4km) is a must. The road to get there is deadly. This was one of the hosts of the 1st South Asian Winter Games in 2011.

Auli ski lift - Kuari day 6

Auli - Kuari day 6

Auli - Kuari day 6-2

Our driver was waiting just outside the gates. 🙂

Red Chili van at Auli - Kuari day 6

It was 10hrs back to Rishikesh with a hotel stop en route.

The most dangerous aspect of Himalaya trekking by far is the drive to and from the trailheads. Washouts and landslides are frequent.

road wash out near Joshimath Kuari day 6

road wash out near Joshimath Kuari day 6-2

OK. The giant spider we found awaiting us at our (Le Meadows) Hotel room might look even scarier. 🙂

BIG spider at hotel - Kuari day 6
Before the trek I knew about the June flooding, but not exactly how bad it had been. More than 5700 dead. 😦

One of the 4 Holy Hindu mountain temples, nearby Kedarnath, was inundated with water, mud and boulders from landslide.  Several died from drowning or being crushed by stampeding pilgrims.

Yet the roads were back to “normal” by October.

See all high resolution photos from this day.

End.

If you might be interested in trekking Kuari yourself, start with our Kuari Trek information page. 🙂

 

Kuari Pass trek – day 2

by site editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

Packing up next morning I was surprised to find that we’d added 2 more pack animals. They carried feed for our 4 mules.

Kuari day 2-2

Kuari day 2

So two helpless “Sahibs” needed an Expedition Team of 4 men (guide, cook, 2 mule drivers). A minimum of 4 beasts. This morning, 6 beasts.

To walk.

Dogs hang about Camps waiting on the compost.

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Seems they’ll eat anything except citrus peel and onions.

Up and up.

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We passed many villages. All seemingly prosperous and well maintained.

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Grazing is critical. Stone fences seem to demarcate who grazes where. But I’m not sure those boundaries are often contested.

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We saw a number of the great birds of India.

The Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) soared above and below us for much of the trip.

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Our guide urged us to drink as much water as possible as we acclimatized to altitude.

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On arrival at our night’s Camp we were surprised by a freak hail storm.

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The larger 2-man, 4-season tent was provided by Red Chilli.

But I used my own 1-man tent instead. Alf got the Tent Mahal for himself. 🙂

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We Sahibs read in our tents while our Team got a fire started with wet wood.

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You’ve got to be ready for anything in the Himalaya.

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See all high resolution photos from this day.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6

BBC Natural World – Himalaya

Kraig Becker:

…The video below is a full episode of that series which happens to be focused on one of my favorite places – the Himalaya. If you have 49 minutes to spare, you’ll get a great look at those mountains and the people that live there, with some of the most breathtaking scenery you’ll find anywhere. So sit back, turn up the volume and enjoy the show. It is one of the greatest on Earth.

Adventure Blog

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I’m doing some research for a planned trip to the BIG mountains.

Laugavegur trek, Iceland

James Handlon signed on with adventure travel company Arctic Adventures to finally trek Laugavegur.

After several hours of bumpy off-roading we finally arrived late in the day at the Landmannalaugar campsite, a weird mix of surreal landscape, Glastonbury Music Festival and refugee camp all thrown together creating the most bizarre of places to start a trek .…

Landmannalaugar campsite

Gorgeous.

weird landscape

Read his entire trip report following the links from the bottom of THE LAUGAVEGUR ICELANDIC TREK – DAY 1 page.

Alastair Humphreys – Greenland

In the last 100 years, twelve people have stood on the moon, more than 500 have been into space, and more than five thousand have climbed Everest. Yet the journey Captain Scott and his team died trying to complete a century ago remains unrealised. No one has ever walked from the coast of Antarctica to the South Pole and back again.

… Ben Saunders, Alastair Humphreys and Martin Hartley take on arguably the most ambitious polar expedition in the last century: the four-month Scott 2012 – the first return journey to the South Pole on foot, and at 1,800 miles, the longest unsupported polar journey in history. …

Click PLAY or watch 2012 training expedition on Vimeo.

The Scott Expedition did not go in 2012.

Instead, an expanded Team starts October 2013. Wish them luck.

Dientes de Navarino, Patagonia

The most southern hike in the world on the Chilean Isla Navarino leads you off the beaten track and through unspoiled nature and wild landscapes of Tierra del Fuego, far away from civilization.

From Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino we prepare ourselves for this unique hike around the “Dientes de Navarino” – mountain chain. During this hike we will walk through mystical southern beech forests, cross vast snowfields and have an impressive view over the Beagle channel. …

dragon 2

Dates 2013-14
16-nov – 22-nov-2013
13-dic – 19-dic-2013
15-jan – 21-jan-2014
12-feb – 18-feb-2014

Other departure dates on request.

Price per person (Based on double occupancy)
USD 1890.-

read more …

 

Check out Dientes information page.