best hikes in Arizona

lucrativetravels.com posted a surprisingly good list:

Wet Beaver Loop
Picacho Peek
Kendrick Mountain
Paria Canyon

We name Paria Canyon the best hike in the entire S.W. USA.

The other three I’m currently researching. … Especially since I’ve just arrived in Arizona. We drove between Tuscon and Phoenix yesterday past impressive Picacho Peak.

Wet Beaver Loop

The Wet Beaver Loop is not a trail that should be hiked by a novice. The trail is a twenty-two mile loop so you should plan on taking a couple of days to complete it. …

Picacho Peak

The Picacho Peak is a hike that that will provide you with the opportunity to admire the Sonora desert. Although the trail is only a seven mile round trip, you need to be aware that much of it is extremely steep and that there are many switchbacks. …

Kendrick Mountain

If Picacho Peak is more than you feel comfortable handling, you might want to consider the Kendrick Mountain hike. This particular hike is 9.2 miles round trip. When you reach the summit you will find a cabin and have an amazing view of Mount Humphreys, Red Mountain, and Sycamore Canyon. On a clear day you will even be able to see the Grand Canyon’s north Rim. …

read more – lucrativetravels.com

AMERICA’S 10 MOST DANGEROUS HIKES

You can tell we are SERIOUS from the all caps typeface.

Kelly Bastone in Backpacker posted this list in 2008:

From a slippery Sierra catwalk to a treacherous Hawaiian paradise, we name the country’s 10 most hazardous hikes. Then we break down the dangers and provide local beta for conquering each route.

The Maze, UT

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ

Barr Trail, Pikes Peak, CO

Mt. Washington, NH

Muir Snowfield, Mt. Rainier, WA

Huckleberry Mtn., Apgar Range, MT

Kalalau Trail, Kauai, HI

Buckskin Gulch, UT

Abrams Falls, Great Smoky Mtns., TN

Mist Trail, Half Dome, CA

click through for details on each – Backpacker

Buckskin Gulch

Flash flood is a greater worry to me than getting lost or being avalanched. Recall April 2008 when 7 of 12 “canyoneers”, most students, were killed in a flash flood in New Zealand.

Hank, you’re our Moses …

This is the second essay of a two-part series about escaping a flash flood while hiking through Buckskin Gulch … Start with the first essay to read the whole story.

PARIA CANYON-VERMILLION CLIFFS WILDERNESS, Utah …

In part 1, Hank Leukart and party were forced to tent up high when caught by a flash flood in the longest slot canyon in the world.

What to do next … ??

… Finally, uncertainly and silence makes the decision for us, as the sun rises and begins to bake us. We reluctantly climb out of the canyon and begin making our way across the trail-less Utah backcountry, in 91-degree heat. We don’t know exactly where we’re going, which, for me, I admit, is my favorite kind of adventure. I use the topographical maps in my GPS device to find our way around The Dive, a stretch of severe, orange and red sandstone cliffs, blocking our route to the closest trailhead. Everyone in the group complains about the sizzling weather, but as I trudge along, I’m find myself enjoying the adventure and extraordinary views of the Utah desert.

Hank, you’re our Moses,” Suzanne remarks as she watches me lead the caravan across the scorching sand.

I also pray that I’m not like Moses, because, after all, in Exodus, Moses dies before reaching Israel. I hope to stay alive all the way to the White House Trailhead. …

Buckskin

click through to read the END of this tale – Without Baggageflat stanley survives the utah desert and learns navajo

Buckskin Gulch – surviving flash flood

Hank Leukart and friends head for one of the 10 most dangerous hikes in the USA, Buckskin Gulch, Utah.

without-baggage-Buckskin

Yup. Worst case scenario. It rained while they were hiking the world’s longest slot canyon:

… I hear the sound of a single thunder clap.

“Did you hear that?!” Rich asks me, nervously.

“Yes,” I say, uncomfortably. “But it sounded like it was very far away. I haven’t felt any raindrops.”

“I think we should turn back now,” says a worried Suzanne. Next to the water-susceptible Flat Stanley, she is the most risk-adverse hiker in our group.

“I am not turning back now,” Wendy says firmly. But our major concern is that there are only two safe places for us to camp: at the confluence of the Paria River and Buckskin Gulch (11.5 miles away) and atop the apparently impossible-to-find Middle Route escape trail (6 miles away). If we choose to continue, we must reach one of these two exits, because camping on the floor of the canyon is a recipe for certain death in the case of a flash flood. …

Part 1 – flat stanley escapes a flash flood in buckskin gulch

It’s a cliff hanger, literally.

Flash flood strikes. But we must wait until Hank posts part 2 of the trip report to see how they survived. Here’s one clue:

the "Penthouse"

Read more superb hiking “essays” on Without Baggage. They are more akin to magazine articles than online trip reports.

hike Buckskin Gulch … and Coyote Gulch

Wild Backpacker has a good summary of our favourite hiking destination in the American Southwest:

Buckskin Gulch is the longest and deepest slot canyon in the Southwest, and while others are narrower, prettier or more challenging to explore, the length and variety of the terrain in the ever changing narrows make it an amazing experience. The narrows extend for nearly 15 miles, with some parts only 10 feet wide. The cliffs grow steadily higher downstream, reaching a height of 500 feet above the streambed at the confluence of Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon. The walls of both canyons are rather dark, as the sun rarely reaches the bottom of the deep canyons. The walls of the gulch still show interesting swirls and curves worn by floods.

Buckskin Gulch and the Paria Canyon, is located in the Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness Area of Southern Utah. Buckskin Gulch is best done at least as a two-day canyoneering and backpacking adventure, although there are day hiking options …

read more – Buckskin Gulch, Paria Canyon, Kanab, Utah

Challenging. And awesome.

But even more extreme is Coyote Gulch in Escalante, Utah.

coyote gulch eagle

… The most challenging part of this hike is the climb out of Coyote Gulch near Jacob Hamblin Arch. The climb involves scrambling up a 100-foot pitch of slick rock that ascends from the canyon floor at an angle close to 45 degrees. A 100-foot length of rope is useful here for raising backpacks. A compass is also useful for the last part of the hike, which involves a 2-mile cross-country walk from the canyon rim back to Jacob Hamblin Trailhead. Sneakers or other wettable shoes are the most practical footwear inside the canyon, as you will frequently be required to cross the stream bed. …

read more on Wild Backpacker

hiking Fall Canyon, Death Valley, California

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

12mi return

I was the only one on the Trail June 2nd.

Most hikers feel it is too hot in June to do valley hikes safely.

Actually, 100 degrees in the shade and zero humidity is not all that uncomfortable. I took plenty of water. And I love these slot canyons.

Fall Canyon is one of many colorful ravines in the hills surrounding Death Valley in California; shaped by occasional flash floods that flow from the higher mountains beyond, the canyon is remote and little-visited; deep and moderately narrow for many miles, with occasional shaded, cave-like passageways of great beauty. Some of these narrow, twisting sections are enclosed by smooth granitic walls with an unusual bluish tint. As with most other Southwest canyons, the rocks are layered, but quite differently to the orderly slot canyons of Utah – here the strata are multi-colored, buckled, twisted and eroded, the result of ancient geological forces. Fall Canyon is easily reached and offers a perfect wilderness experience, though it should be avoided during the summer months when the weather becomes too extreme.

more photos

The highlight comes 2.8mi in when you reach this 20ft wall.

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Actually, you’d be crazy to scale this wall without ropes.

Instead look for cairns on the right hand side of the cliff. They lead up to a relatively easy path up and over the obstacle.

The next half mile is the best section.

Location: Fall Canyon is located in the Grapevine Mountains, towards the less-traveled north end of Death Valley National Park. It is close to Titus Canyon, another colorful ravine that is popular because of the rough one-way track that extends through it – this is a 4WD route …

The American Southwest

I left my pack behind (carrying only water) before the cliff. My thinking in hanging it was to keep out scorpions and snakes.

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In fact I did see one golden snake further up the canyon. And several chuckwallas.

how to hike The Wave

It’s a real pain getting a permit to hike one of the most spectacular geological features in the world.

the-wave.jpg

Some go to EXTREME measures:

… seeing The Wave on a whim is not easy. To maintain the pristine sandstorm formation and prevent overcrowding, The Arizona Bureau of Land Management allows only twenty people access to The Wave per day. The Bureau allows reservations for ten of the slots four months in advance through its website, but the other ten are given out by lottery at 9:00 AM Mountain Time on the morning before the day of the hike. Since we had decided at the last minute to visit The Wave, we had no choice but to try our luck at the lottery, but we knew our long drive would not be able to get us to the Paria Ranger Station in Utah in time. To deal with this problem, we posted an ad on Craigslist before we left and hired a St. George college student to attend the lottery and obtain our permits for us. …

Hank Leukart did manage to visit The Wave on this trip. (I’m not sure exactly how.)

Read his trip report on Without Baggage for the details – The travel gods generously deliver orange, alien taffy.

We’ve linked to this trip report from the besthike Information page for The Wave.

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Does getting a permit sound like too much hassle?

Hire someone to get it for you.

Ray Hendricks is an owner/operator of Just Roughin’ It Adventure Company.

They are an authorized hiking and backpacking guide service for the Grand Canyon National Park as well as the Paria Canyon/ Verimillion Cliffs Area which includes the Wave.

Their Commercial Use Authorization (CUA) numbers for the Grand Canyon are 5600-1007 for Backpacking and 5600-1006 for Day Hiking. For the Paria Canyon/ Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, our Special Recreation Permit (SRP) # is AZ-120-2008-032.

If you want a guided hike, check out JustRoughinIt.com.

hiking Paria Canyon solo

Benjamin Burner stumbled accidentally on to one of the best hikes in the world, Paria Canyon on the Arizona – Utah border. It’s the best slot canyon hike anywhere.

His photos are excellent. His trip report philosophic:

Advantages of Traveling Alone

Flexibility. This is a nice euphemism for selfishness. Going solo means you set your own pace, your own agenda, meal plan, lodging arrangements etc. In day to day life I find I constantly interact with people who I must accommodate. I need a vacation from this as much as anything.

Nature. With nature as my sole companion I am free from the distractions of society. I find I experience the beauty and purity of nature not as a spectator but as a participant.

Solitude. It is often only through solitude that I truly know myself. I find these times of solitude necessary for deep introspection.

Independence. I have been blessed with a few great friends who have always been there for me, but I believe it is important for me to survive on my own from time to time. As a man, I use this independence to take risks, test my strength, and assert my silly inner boy. However, regardless of your sex or what independence means to you, I believe the confidence gained from this independence is vital in shaping us and who we will be around others.

Spiritual Growth. Perhaps it is partly because I am religious, but I often feel the presence of god more keenly when I am alone in the wilderness. God speaks to me through the mountains and the trees, and sometimes I only hear it when I am alone and free from distractions.

paria.jpg

Read the rest of the post on Burner PhotographyTraveling Alone through the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Besthike information page – PARIA CANYON

America’s 10 Most Dangerous Hikes

New on Backpacker:

From a slippery Sierra catwalk to a treacherous Hawaiian paradise, we name the country’s 10 most hazardous hikes.

The Maze, UT

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ

Barr Trail, Pikes Peak, CO

Mt. Washington, NH

Muir Snowfield, Mt. Rainier, WA

Huckleberry Mtn., Apgar Range, MT

Kalalau Trail, Kauai, HI

Buckskin Gulch, UT

Abrams Falls, Great Smoky Mtns., TN

Mist Trail, Half Dome, CA

America’s 10 Most Dangerous Hikes

Buckskin Gulch looked very dangerous, I thought, when I took a sidetrip hike part way in from Paria Canyon. No one has yet died there, though.

The Maze really appeals to me. But rather than do the long, difficult drive to get there … I’m thinking of rafting across the river from the Needles. (I’m not sure that’s actually allowed.)

cany_map.jpg

The Maze is huge and sprawling. It would be difficult to see many of the rarely visited arches in one trip.

tibbett.jpg
Tibbett Arch – NaturalArches.org

National Outdoor Book Awards 2008

The winners were just announced.
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes was — predictably — chosen. It’s been nominated for a Pulitzer, as well.

The second most interesting book to me was in the History/Biography Category, as well:

Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of Grand Canyon

Winner. Grand Obsession: Grand Obsession: Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of Grand Canyon. By Elias Butler and Tom Myers.

Harvey Butchart was the legendary hiker and canyoneer who explored more of the Grand Canyon than any other person. He was largely known through his sparse and somewhat cryptic hiking guidebooks. But even more cryptic was Butchart himself. Who was this man, and why did his interest in the canyon become an obsession that consumed his life? You’ll find out in this uncommonly well researched, well-structured and well-written biography.

See the rest of the Winners – National Outdoor Book Awards