Guadalupe Mountains TX – Bowl Loop

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

  • 8.5 miles
  • 2380ft elevation gain
  • side trip to climb Hunter’s Peak

The Parks recommends a (strenuous) 6-8 hours. In a rush to finish before dark, I did it in 4.5 hours.

Trailhead is the Pine Springs Visitor Center. I checked in with a Ranger on trail conditions. She neglected to tell me there was a LOT of snow up in the Bowl.

My guidebook recommended to climb up via the Tejas trail.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

A very easy way gain all that altitude. Very well maintained.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

Up top in the bowl it looked like the Canadian winter I’d fled.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

I met only one other hiker. She too was surprised with the snow.

It’s a different ecosystem up here.

A beautiful coniferous forest of pine and Douglas fir … awaits those who are willing to hike up 2500 feet from the Chihuahuan desert below.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

Close to the turnoff for Hunter’s Peak I saw a herd of mule deer. I’m not sure why they are so high this time of year.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

Behind me is the highest point in Texas – Guadalupe Peak. I left a Summit Stone.

Great vistas.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX
flat desert below

From there I needed to either backtrack. Or finish the loop.

Signage in Guadalupe Mountains National Park is not nearly as good as in Big Bend. The free Parks trail map is not detailed enough to do many of the hikes it recommends. Get a better map.

Happily I did find the sign to Bear Canyon Trail. The descent was much different — and much steeper — than how I got up.

water pipe
water pipe

I saw some strange wreckage. An airplane crash, I assume.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

It was much quicker down than up.

Bowl Loop, Guadalupe Mountains TX

In fact, for most people it’s better to climb on Bear Canyon, descend on Tejas. Easier on the knees. We’ve added The Bowl to our list of best hikes in North America.

related – Backpacker – Guadalupe Mountains National Park: The Bowl

South Rim Loop, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

I feel the best hike in Big Bend National Park for most people is one of the South Rim Loop options. You can do those as long day hikes, but I’d recommend one night in a tent on the Rim.

south-rim-aerial

Pick up your camping permit ($12 / night 2017) at the Ranger station near the Chisos Mountain Lodge. There’s a good store for last minute provisions.

img_3540

The trailhead is right there. I started up the Pinnacles Trail.

img_3541

Everywhere is scenic up this high. Great vistas in every direction.

img_3542

A hiker showed me a photo of a bear he’d seen earlier in the morning. Cougar and bear sightings are frequent. They are confined to a small geographic area.

Cougars hunt the Carmen Mountain Whitetail. For the deer it’s either cougars in the National Park or hunters outside the Park.

img_3546

Are these the Pinnacles?

img_3548

Weather was good so I opted for the Emory Peak side trip. It’s the highest mountain in the Park.

Emory is dangerous. A teenager fell 450 feet to his death in 1999. Many turn back at the final scramble to the summit.

For me it was FUN getting up.

img_3550

img_3552
atop Emory Peak

I left a Summit Stone. Enjoyed the vistas … though it was very windy.

img_3553

img_3555

img_3551

Down climbing is often more difficult. It is here.

Foolishly I’d not really paid any attention to my line on the way up. Several times I had to backtrack on the descent to find the safest route.

I picked up my pack on getting back to the Pinnacles Trail. Then carried on up the Boot Canyon Trail.

img_3559

I’ve never seen so many Bear Boxes before. As a result, Big Bend has very few problem bears.

It was late in the day. I needed to hurry to get to the South Rim if I wanted to set up my tent in daylight.

img_3564

img_3565

There are standing pools of water here. You don’t want to drink from them.

img_3566

I started with 3.5 litres of liquids.

Big Bend does an excellent job maintaining trails. #respect

img_3567

At last light I reached the most scenic part of the trip.

img_3573

img_3571

Here’s the vista from the S.E. Rim.

img_3574

In January it was very cold this high. And very windy. I had to cocoon in my sleeping bag to stay warm enough.

img_3576

I woke early next morning. The weather forecast was for rain. I hurried down over the Laguna Meadows Trail taking only about 2 hours to complete the loop.

Recommended.

south-rim-trail-map

related – trip report – Patrick Dearen 2007

Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Note: We were there Jan 2017. Accessibility may change depending on what happens with Trump’s border wall promise.

Santa Elena Canyon is the single most popular spot in Big Bend National Park. Everyone stops here, even those who don’t normally hike.

img_3532

The nature trail crosses Terlingua Creek, climbs several flights of ramps and stairs and then descends into the canyon along the Rio Grande. At this point the canyon walls loom over 1500 feet above the river below. …

In my haste to get over to the Canyon, I took off my shoes and waded Terlingua Creek.

img_3539

That turned out to be a mistake. Everyone else found a way to cross keeping their feet dry.

img_3534

img_3535

img_3536

img_3537

Nobody regrets taking this short hike.

And I did finally get a photo of a desert cottontail. Or is it a small jack rabbit?

img_3530

The best way to see the canyon is by raft or canoe. Local outfitters offer trips from one to three days in length when conditions allow, and river runners of intermediate or better skill level often go on their own. …

Visit Big Bend

Even better for me would be the difficult Mesa de Anguila hike along the canyon rim. Next time. 🙂

related – Texas GOP congressman slams Trump plan for border wall

“Building a wall is the most expensive and least effective way to secure the border,” Rep. Will Hurd (R-Tex.) said in a statement …

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Note: We were there Jan 2017. Accessibility may change depending on what happens with Trump’s border wall promise.

Boquillas town is actually the small village in Mexico that sits on the eastern side of Big Bend National Park. It’s where many tourists cross to hike in Mexico.

A guy I met in the hotsprings recommended the Boquillas Canyon day hike. It’s about 1.5 miles return on the American side.

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend

From the parking lot you climb up and over a bluff to walk alongside the muddy Rio Grande.

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend

Supposedly these souvenirs on the beach ($6 each) were a fundraiser for the Boquillas school.

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend

There was a donation box too for the Mexican fishermen who SING for tourists.

The cliff walls loom.

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend

It is an interesting short hike.

Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend

Boquillas canyon is not as steep or sheer as Santa Elena. But it is impressive.

Hot Springs Rim, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Note: We were there Jan 2017. Accessibility may change depending on what happens with Trump’s border wall promise.

One highlight of Big Bend National Park you should not miss are the Hot Springs.

A reminder of the park’s past volcanic turmoil, the Langford Hot Springs (or just “hot springs”; everyone will know what you’re talking about) is a small, jacuzzi-sized pool of naturally occurring 105°F (41°C) water from deep below the earth. …

Edge of the Rio Grande
Edge of the Rio Grande

It’s a short walk from the parking lot. Bring a flashlight at night.

Even better is to hike the Hot Springs Rim trail first. Finishing with a dip.

The trailhead features the amazingly well preserved buildings from the Livingston family days.

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

I started up the Hot Springs Trail.

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

Continued on to the Hot Springs Rim Trail high above the Rio Grande.

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

I left a Summit Stone at a nice viewpoint.

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

Relaxed there looking over the river into Mexico. Very tranquil.

Hotsprings Trail, Big Bend

I backtracked to the Hot Springs just in time for dusk. 🙂

This is the life.

Lost Mine Trail, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Very close to Chisos Basin Campground in Big Bend National Park is the super popular Lost Mine Trail.

  • 4.8 miles return
  • perhaps the best half day hike in the Park
  • starts at 5,650 feet, ends at a dramatic rocky ridge at 6,850 feet

On the way up you can look back to the campsiteLost Mine, Big Bend

Pretty views non-stop.

Lost Mine, Big Bend

Surprisingly large trees.

Lost Mine, Big Bend

This is heaven on a nice day.

Lost Mine, Big Bend

I left a Summit Stone atop this feature. You’ll need to scramble to find it.

Lost Mine, Big Bend

I didn’t spend much time at the end of the ridge. It was too windy.

Lost Mine, Big Bend

There is no Lost Mine I’m afraid. That’s an old legend.

But I do highly recommend this hike. Weather permitting.

 

 

The Window, Big Bend TX

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Chisos Basin Campground is the best in Big Bend National Park. Reserve in advance as it’s very popular.

The Window, Big Bend

Awaking my first morning I found the famed Window hike ran right past my campsite.

I had two mugs of coffee. Then set off down the trail.

The Window, Big Bend

The Window, Big Bend

The moon still out.

The Window, Big Bend

I was first down the trail this morning. My only company were the large, friendly Mexican jays.

mexican_jay_aphelocoma_wollweberi_3

My first trail in Big Bend, I was impressed with construction and management. Check these stairs cut into stone.

The Window, Big Bend

Here’s the Window pour-off. The only outlet for water from the entire mountain basin.

The Window, Big Bend

Don’t get too close. It’s a 220ft drop to Chihuahuan Desert.

related – Trek Southwest – The Window Trail – Big Bend National Park

Tramway Trail, Albuquerque

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

I took the Sandia Peak Tramway trip on one of the snowiest days of the year.

It’s one of the top tourist attractions in New Mexico.

img_3438

I first tried hiking to the top. Planning to ride down on the Cable Car. That would have been GREAT.

The La Luz Trail (Trail 137) … on the west face of the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque, New Mexico. The trail begins at the La Luz Trailhead and proceeds approximately eight miles to either Sandia Crest or the Sandia Peak Tramway. The hike is strenuous, with 3,775 ft (1,151 m) of elevation gain and a grade of 12%. …

click for larger map
click for larger map

I started at the Tramway parking lot on the Tramway Trail (82). Planning to connect to the La Luz.

Tramway Trail, Albuquerque

It’s a pretty traverse above lovely residential homes.

Tramway Trail, Albuquerque

I’d heard a foot of snow had fallen up top. It did not look good for me getting up there.

Tramway Trail, Albuquerque Tramway Trail, Albuquerque

I – happily – backtracked to my vehicle.

Tramway Trail, Albuquerque

At one point I stumbled off trail. Easy to do in the desert. While scrambling an arroyo to regain the trail I kicked a cactus and drove a spine into my foot.

Lesson learned = STAY on the trail in the desert.

The main reason to go to Albuquerque are the 200 miles of Sandia hiking trails many of which are off limits to mountain bikes.

We’ve added the La Luz Trail to our list of best hikes in North America.

 

hiking Big Bend National Park, Texas

I’m planning to hike Big Bend for the first time. In January.

big-bend-park

hiking-big-bend-national-park
The Parks Service recommends:

• Desert Hikes
• Mountain Hikes
• River Hikes

As usual I’ll check with Rangers before deciding which hikes. Local information is critical in the desert. Backcountry Use Permits are required.

I’ll be mostly doing day hikes and one night tenting trips. Water is an issue, I understand, even in winter.

Unless you are walking the Rio Grande, of course.

520px-santa_elena_canyon
Santa Elena Canyon