honeymoon on the Annapurna Circuit

Backpacker associate editor Shannon Davis and his wife Emily decided on an outdoor adventure to celebrate their nuptials.

They chose one of our top 10 hikes in the world.

The blissful couple at 17,768-foot Thorung La in Nepal.
The blissful couple at 17,768-foot Thorung La in Nepal.

… The 128-mile horseshoe-shaped route circles Nepal’s heaven-high Annapurna range, and it’s been hailed as the holy grail of trekking since it was first opened to foreigners in the early 1980s. Travel writers and hikers everywhere gush about the trail …

Season
October is the most popular, thanks to reliably pleasant weather (80°F and humid at 2,000 feet; 20°F and dry at 17,000 feet) and clear skies. …

Map and Books
The best trail guide is Annapurna Trekking Map and Complete Guide, by Partha S. Banerjee (Milestone Guidebooks, $10); it can be found at every bookstore in Kathmandu. Use Trails Illustrated map Annapurna #3003 (natgeomaps.com, $17) and Nepal (Lonely Planet, $25) for pre-trip planning.

Permit
Every trekker needs a permit ($25), but no reservations are necessary. Just pick one up in Kathmandu at the Annapurna Conservation Area Project office on Tridevi Marg (open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily). ntnc.org.np/trekking.php

Trailhead
The trek starts in Besisahar (catch a bus at Kathmandu’s Gongabu Bus Park; they leave regularly) and ends in Pokhara (return on a Greenline Tours bus, greenline.com.np).

Cost (Less Airfare & Rental Car) DIY: Less than $500 // Guided: $1,000-$1,499

Cheap and Easy

Annapurna’s teahouses beat the huts on other classic treks in terms of convenience, cost, and local color. Teahouses charge about $12 per day for a room and meals, and they’re never more than three hours apart, making is easy to keep a flexible itinerary. But that’s not to say there aren’t rules. Here are six: Choose a teahouse before 3 p.m. to beat large guided groups to the nicest places; choose a smaller one for better meal service; take showers immediately after arriving (most hot water is solar heated); order breakfast before going to bed to speed your morning departure; and bring a padlock for your room and a ground pad for the beds, which may be foam, straw, or just blankets.

read the trip report – THE PERFECT CIRCLE: HIKING THE ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT

A follow-up article is equally informative – HIKING THE ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT: Q&A WITH SHANNON DAVIS

Want to organize a trip for yourself?

Check our Annapurna information page.

mountain biking the Dolomites

The Adventure Life caught my eye with this compelling photo.

dolomites20

more photos

That article links to this important advice:

Timing Your Visit

Ski Touring : March – May 1
Road Biking : May – October
Mtn Biking : June – October
Trail Running : June – October
Hiking : June – October

So much in the Dolomites depends on the huts being open. To come to the Region and have the huts all closed would mean missing out on a lot of the culture, it would also mean a heavier pack. May and June can have periods of great weather for cycling, and the roads are empty. But, it can be quite wet as well. Again, the huts are closed from late April to 20 June.

The time frames above are not fixed, only general references. Also, for the off season you can visit lower, nearby areas and hit the Dolomites in periods of perfect weather. The Lake Garda area is a fantastic escape when the weather is bad, or the perfect spot to base yourself off season.

An interesting thing occurs in Italy each August. The majority of the country goes on holiday. Literally. Unless you live in a holiday area (like the Dolomites), you go on vacation. The interesting thing is that Italians like to stay in Italy, they see little reason to leave, they know it is about the best place on the planet. Why risk leaving where the food is bad and the coffee terrible (good point)?

So, they pack nearly everything they own into their tiny cars and head to either the Dolomites or the beach. At about the same time, the Germans, who love the German speaking Sud Tirol Region, arrive en masse in campers, big Audi’s and motorcycles.

Given the option – do not come to the Dolomites in August – steer clear. The roads are frightening, the trails have traffic problems, the huts are full and the locals are somewhat grumpy. …

read more – DolomiteSport

best hike in Death Valley is …

Telescope Peak.

Trip Report by site editor Rick McCharles.

Want to see the highest and lowest elevations in the continental USA from one vantage?

Death-Valley

Telescope Peak is the highest point within Death Valley National Park, in the US state of California. It is also the highest point of the Panamint Range, and lies in Inyo County. From atop this desert mountain one can see for over one hundred miles in many directions, including west to Mount Whitney, and east to Charleston Peak. The mountain was named for the great distance visible from the summit.

Telescope Peak is also notable for having one of the greatest vertical rises above local terrain of any mountain in the contiguous United States. Its summit rises 11,331 feet (3,478 m) above the floor of Death Valley (Badwater, -282 ft/-86 m) in about 15 miles (24 km), and about 10,000 feet (3,050 m) above the floor of Panamint Valley in about 8 miles (13 km). …

Hiking Telescope Peak by the normal route involves a 14 mile (23 km) round trip hike. The trail starts in the cool western part of Death Valley National Park at Mahogany Flat campground. The trail slowly winds itself up to the summit 7 miles (11 km) later at a steady gradient of roughly 8%. …

This superb, popular hike starts a few miles past the famed Charcoal Kilns.

Charcoal-Kilns

The beehive shaped kilns were built in the 1870s to make charcoal for local mines. Here is the start of the Wildrose Peak Trail, a good alternative to Telescope.

Though often called “challenging”, I found this hike surprisingly easy. Weather is a big factor. And I tented one night rather than doing the entire big trip in one day as most do.

backpack-on-trail

There are some pretty, rolling miles along a ridge walk. Some hikers do not make it to the top due to feeling ill effects from the 3000ft climb.

The lush high alpine contrasts starkly with bleak Death Valley below.

bird-on-tree

At the peak I found an impressive summit box. To the many souvenirs and prizes that had been contributed, I added a Summit Stone on behalf of artist DSD.

Summit-peak-book

Here’s the sunset view from my campsite.

Mt Whitney and the Sierras
Mt Whitney and the Sierras

It’s normally snowed in between November and May. You can still hike, but bring crampons.

No hiking permit required. In fact, if driving in from Lone Pine, California in the Sierras, you won’t even be able to buy a Park Pass ($20 for 7-days) which is supposedly required to hike Telescope. This mountain is on the very edge of the Park.

Tom Harrison Maps are available. And several good guidebooks. But this hike is very straight forward. If you can find your way to the trailhead by personal vehicle, you won’t get lost on the trail.

See all my annotated photos from this highly recommended adventure.

=== Sound too easy? Consider this extreme alternative:

… An established, but more advanced, climbing route is from Shorty’s Well (elevation around -250′) to Telescope Peak. This provides a net gain of elevation of roughly 11,300 ft (3,400 m) The route follows Hanaupah Canyon for over 10 miles (16 km) until Hanaupah Springs is reached. This route can be done in one day by experienced hikers, and has one of the largest elevation gains that can be gained up a single summit. …

Wikipedia – Telescope Peak

One group did this in 12hrs earlier this season.

hike Kearsarge Pass, Onion Valley, California

The 4.0-mile trail to 11,760-foot Kearsarge Pass switchbacks up a sunny slope towards its namesake mountain pass, providing access to a sparkling High Sierra lake basin, the John Muir Wilderness, and the dramatic backcountry mountain scenery of Kings Canyon National Park—superb destinations for any day hiker.

Begin your hike at the trailhead located at the end of Onion Valley Road (Market Street in town), a 13-mile drive from the town of Independence, California—starting at an elevation of 9,189 feet, you might already feel breathless …

Natural Born Hikers

Here’s the winding road that gets you up to over 9000ft.

trailhead

Quickly you reach that wonderful stoney Sierra landscape. I saw far more fishermen than hikers. Dogs are allowed as far as the Pass.

Sierra-waterfall

Rain threatened.

rain-clouds-over-the-mountain

But it just seemed to not be able to get over the mountains.

Sadly, I never made it to the “Pass” itself at 11,823ft. The snow was still heaped close to the top.

snow-on-the-trail

See all my photos from this half day hike.

Onion Valley was named one of the 10 best hikes in the Eastern Sierra.

But famed local author R. J. Secor pooh-poohed this hike, I read. He disparages it as over popular.

review – Trekking in the Everest Region

Caroline from Trailblazer sent me a review copy of the latest edition of their Everest trekking guide. (Published March, 2009)

I read it on high while tenting on Mount Lady MacDonald.

Trekking in the Everest Region

Amazon – Trekking in the Everest Region, 5th

For any hiker wanting to plan a Chomolungma adventure, there is no better resource.

Expedition, Teahouse or Independent?

Route options depending on when you go. And how long you can stay in Nepal.

Terrific maps.

I have no complaints at all. This is an excellent guide.

The author Jamie McGuinness is expert, one of the most experienced trek leaders in the country. Based in Kathmandu, Nepal, he manages a trekking and climbing company. And has summitted Everest three times.

The main alternative, Trekking in Nepal by Stephen Bezruchka, has not been updated since 1997.

My next trip to Nepal will be to the Everest region. I’ll teahouse trek independently, carrying a very light pack, deciding on my exact route once there.

And I’ll be using the Trailblazer Guide.

scrambling Lady MacDonald, Canmore, Alberta

I was looking for a good first hike of the season. And a chance to test my full set of gear.

My original plan of scrambling Ha Ling, then wild camping, was abandoned after I heard about a better option from local hiker Kelly Mock.

In fact, I walked out Kelly’s front door directly to the trailhead and up the mountain to this gorgeous vista.

teahouse-view

… Just above the treeline you’ll find a large helicopter landing pad, a steel ramp for paragliders, and the remains of a teahouse that was being constructed but is now abandoned. A gazebo just to the east of the teahouse sits on the edge of a large cliff. The views from here are spectacular. A number of hikers end their hike here as it’s already been a hard push to get this far, and the scree slope above can be daunting for non-scramblers. …

TrailPeak – Mount Lady MacDonald

Actually, it’s an easy and popular hike straight up to the ill fated teahouse. Most do not go higher as it’s recommended you have mountaineering skills on the ridge.

That’s not far wrong. The slippery scree takes you up to a knife edge ridge with killer views into the Cougar Creek drainage. In summer it’s merely daunting.

Lady-MacDonald
flickr – Marc Shandro – larger version

In the Spring it’s hairier. It looks like you might fall right through the melting cornice at spots.

MacDonald-in-April
flickr – iHeartDimSum – larger version

I stopped when I got to the snow.

Lady MacDonald is a terrific option for fit hikers. Each in your group can stop where they want. Most will relax at the teahouse or the gazebo until the adventurous return from the ridge.

This is a good hike with dogs. Don’t let them chase after the resident mountain sheep.

Tour de Mont Blanc trip report

The Tour of Mont Blanc is one of our top 10 hikes in the world.

Marc Sebastian Pelzer has done 3 TMBs since 2003, in 2007 remembering to bring his wife Romana.

hikers

Marc posted an excellent trip report of their 2007 adventure:

Approximately 175 kilometers and 12,000 vertical meters ascent and descent around the mountain massif of Mont Blanc in the triangle of France, Italy & Switzerland. This is Europe’s most beautiful trekking tour. The “Tour Du Mont Blanc”. …

Marc

… Each stage was different than the previous one and had its own unique character. Each stage was a sporting challenge. On average, we went about 15 kilometers per day and completed to 1000 meters of altitude ascent and descent. …

trip report – original German

trip report – Google translated to English

10 best hikes in the Eastern Sierra

Local expert Dave McNeill picks his favourites for Along Highway 395.

The Eastern Sierra provides a lifetime of places to hike. The terrain ranges from very challenging to a mellow walk in the woods and extends for nearly 250 miles along the great eastern escarpment of the mighty Sierra Nevada Mountains.

1. Horseshoe Meadow
2. Onion Valley
3. Taboose Pass
4. Big Pine Canyon
5. North Lake
6. Pine Creek
7. Rock Creek
8. Sherwin-Valentine Trail
9. Red’s Meadow
10. Gem Lake

A must see highilght is the Devil’s Postpile out of Red’s Meadow.

Devil's Postpile
Devil's Postpile

flickr – Sean94110 – larger version

Click through for details – Along Highway 395

hiking Canmore, Alberta this weekend …

Sunday night. Perhaps Monday night, as well.

I’ll check with locals before deciding on the best trails this early in the season.

My preliminary plan is to scramble Ha Ling as I’ve never been up there before.

Ha Ling AKA Chinaman's Peak - by Aperture Design
Ha Ling AKA Chinaman's Peak - by Aperture Design

flickr – larger version

Trekking The Lebanon Mountain Trail

Have you ever heard of hiking in Lebanon?

Is it safe?

What is the Lebanon Mountain trail?

The Lebanon Mountain trail is the first long distance hiking trail in Lebanon and the Arab world (www.lebanontrail.org). It extends 440km. from Qbaiyat in the north to Marjeyoun in the south. It traverses 75 towns and villages at altitudes from 600m to 1900m. The LMT showcases the natural beauty and cultural wealth of Lebanon’s mountains.

The Lebanon Mountain Trail Association organized the first complete thru-walk of the LMT during the month of April 2009. The core group of 7 hikers explored history and culture, as well as the natural beauty of Lebanon.

Lebanon-hikers

They blogged the journey, an interesting read with plenty of photos.

header-trekking-Lebanon

TrekkingLebanon.com

official trail website – lebanontrail.org

Time Magazine posted a short video on this Adventure.

This could be the start of something much bigger in the Middle East. Just as soon as Peace breaks out there.