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another Inca Trail alternative – Moonstone Trek

First off, this adventure does not have you hiking into Machu Picchu.

It finishes 7mi away in (amazing) Ollantaytambo. From there you take the train to Aguas Calientes. Then the bus up to the ruins.

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larger version – flickr – FranUlloa

On the other hand, it does look pretty good compared with the over-popular, problematic Inca Trail.

It passes through seldom-visited Andean villages, Inca and pre-Inca ruins and heads onto a beautiful altiplano plateau surrounded by glaciated peaks. Most groups won’t encounter any other tourists for the entire trek and the combination of stunning mountain scenery and wildlife, fascinating relics and real isolation is truly rewarding. …

Supported by horses rather than porters. It’s claimed to be a little tougher than the standard Inca Trail, as “it goes higher and covers slightly more distance”.

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Exodus Guide Tours – Moonstone Trek

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larger version – flickr – FranUlloa

(via The Adventure Blog)

The best alternative is still Choquequirao to Machu Picchu.

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scrambling Annapurna Base Camp, NEPAL

My old hiking buddy from South America 2004, Canadian Grant Assenheimer, just climbed down from the high Himalayas. He was on a “holiday” between assignments for Doctors Without Borders.

From Grant’s email:

Just got back from ABC and had a fantastic time. The ‘scare’ tactics used by the tour companies almost had me convinced that I should take a guide but it is TOTALLY NOT NECESSARY. Pass the word! Even if you are only moderately fit, you can easily do any of the teahouse trekking without a guide or porter.

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larger version – flickr

My favorite day was a scramble up from the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). Although most people stop at ABC, I rounded up a couple of New Yorkers and the 3 of us did this great day trip UP to the base camp for Tent Peak, one of the smaller ‘trekking peaks’ in the area. We started at 4100 m, went down and crossed the stone-covered glacier and then climbed to 4800 m via a steep morrain, icy river through a narrow gorge and finally a bit of a slog through steep high-altitude grassy slopes. This gave us GREAT views of the Annapurna Range, Machapuchre and some other ‘lesser’ 5 and 6 thousand meter peaks. The way UP was a bit challenging (ie. GREAT) because we didn’t see the PATH until we were already pretty much at the top. Lets just say that the way down was MUCH easier and didn’t involve navigating that icy river in that steep canyon or the 60 degree grassy slopes…

I also read Annapurna by Herzog during the hike. Wow. All I can say is that the Nepal of today is NOTHING like the Himalayas of the early mountaineers. I mean, they actually walked in from India. No apple pie or internet cafe waiting at 4000 m for them. What a story.

I started in Phedi, walked to ABC and then came out via Gorenpani and Poon hill. Truly spectacular and worth putting up with everyone else for the views. Definitely NOT a wilderness experience but if you go in without expecting one, its a great time.

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larger version – flickr

Thanks Grant.

The Base Camp is the best side trip off the famed Annapurna Circuit.

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how to pack your hiking food

Sectionhiker put up a great post:

Tips and Tricks: How to Pack a Food Bag:

1. When I pack my bear bag at home, I first divide all of my meals into 5 piles: breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks, and drinks.

2. I put each pile into it’s own plastic bag. I find that the best ones to use for this purpose are the plastic bags that I get from the dry cleaners that wrap my folded dress shirts.

3. I place my backpacking towel, bear bag line, and mesh sack at the bottom of my food bag.

4. Then I insert my O.P. Sack into my bear bag and place my long handled titanium spoon and toob tooth brush along the inside, propped up vertically for easy access.

5. Next, I put the 5 bags of food into my O.P. sack, one by one, so that the meal or snack that I want next, is positioned at the top of my food bag. After, I’ve eaten something, I reorder the bags as required, so that food breaks can be kept short if I want to get going again.

6. I always carry my food bag on top of the other gear in my backpack so that it’s easy to access during the day.

Click through for the details – Tips and Tricks: How to Pack a Food Bag – Sectionhiker

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how to hike The Wave

It’s a real pain getting a permit to hike one of the most spectacular geological features in the world.

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Some go to EXTREME measures:

… seeing The Wave on a whim is not easy. To maintain the pristine sandstorm formation and prevent overcrowding, The Arizona Bureau of Land Management allows only twenty people access to The Wave per day. The Bureau allows reservations for ten of the slots four months in advance through its website, but the other ten are given out by lottery at 9:00 AM Mountain Time on the morning before the day of the hike. Since we had decided at the last minute to visit The Wave, we had no choice but to try our luck at the lottery, but we knew our long drive would not be able to get us to the Paria Ranger Station in Utah in time. To deal with this problem, we posted an ad on Craigslist before we left and hired a St. George college student to attend the lottery and obtain our permits for us. …

Hank Leukart did manage to visit The Wave on this trip. (I’m not sure exactly how.)

Read his trip report on Without Baggage for the details – The travel gods generously deliver orange, alien taffy.

We’ve linked to this trip report from the besthike Information page for The Wave.

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Does getting a permit sound like too much hassle?

Hire someone to get it for you.

Ray Hendricks is an owner/operator of Just Roughin’ It Adventure Company.

They are an authorized hiking and backpacking guide service for the Grand Canyon National Park as well as the Paria Canyon/ Verimillion Cliffs Area which includes the Wave.

Their Commercial Use Authorization (CUA) numbers for the Grand Canyon are 5600-1007 for Backpacking and 5600-1006 for Day Hiking. For the Paria Canyon/ Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, our Special Recreation Permit (SRP) # is AZ-120-2008-032.

If you want a guided hike, check out JustRoughinIt.com.

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superb West Coast Trail trip report

Photographer Hank Leukart penned one of the best trip reports I’ve yet seen on our #1 hike in the world …

WEST COAST TRAIL, Vancouver Island, British Columbia — After our extraordinary Alaskan backpacking experience this past August, my brother and I had become addicted. For months following the excursion, we daydreamed, researched, and gushed about the possibilities for our next adventure. We considered a number of tempting options, including a Grand Canyon rim-to-rim-to-rim hike, a journey along the pristine Lost Coast of California, and even a long trek through remote Patagonia. But then, we read about the Graveyard of the Pacific. …

… When we arrived at the trailhead, Parks Canada gave us and the rest of the “West Coast Trail Class of June 2, 2008” a short presentation about the hike’s dangers. We were warned to use tide tables to time our coastal hiking and avoid being trapped by dangerous swells; we learned that if a helicopter flew overhead dropping tsunami warnings in bottles (seriously!), we would need to immediately drop our backpacks and sprint up towering ladder networks to avoid being swallowed by the sea; we were told to use the cable cars whenever possible to perform river crossings, which made us laugh due to “our extensive river crossing experience”; and we were urged, once again, never to run from a bear (or a wolf or a cougar).

After the park ranger sufficiently scared us, she sold us our trail permits. We donned our 50-pound backpacks (we were arguably overprepared for this trip, with more than two extra days of food and of course, the requisite board games we always take on backpacking trips) and stepped onto the ferry that took us to the beginning of our adventure. …

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read the rest on Without Baggage – Brothers tackle dangerous surge channels on the West Coast Trail.

The annotated photos are spectacular!

West Coast Trail: Days 1 – 3 Photography.
West Coast Trail: Days 4 – 5 Photography.
West Coast Trail: Days 6 – 8 Photography.

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Congratulations to Hank and his brother. That was some adventure!

I instantly subscribed to Without Baggage. And recommend you do too.

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hiking Paria Canyon solo

Benjamin Burner stumbled accidentally on to one of the best hikes in the world, Paria Canyon on the Arizona – Utah border. It’s the best slot canyon hike anywhere.

His photos are excellent. His trip report philosophic:

Advantages of Traveling Alone

Flexibility. This is a nice euphemism for selfishness. Going solo means you set your own pace, your own agenda, meal plan, lodging arrangements etc. In day to day life I find I constantly interact with people who I must accommodate. I need a vacation from this as much as anything.

Nature. With nature as my sole companion I am free from the distractions of society. I find I experience the beauty and purity of nature not as a spectator but as a participant.

Solitude. It is often only through solitude that I truly know myself. I find these times of solitude necessary for deep introspection.

Independence. I have been blessed with a few great friends who have always been there for me, but I believe it is important for me to survive on my own from time to time. As a man, I use this independence to take risks, test my strength, and assert my silly inner boy. However, regardless of your sex or what independence means to you, I believe the confidence gained from this independence is vital in shaping us and who we will be around others.

Spiritual Growth. Perhaps it is partly because I am religious, but I often feel the presence of god more keenly when I am alone in the wilderness. God speaks to me through the mountains and the trees, and sometimes I only hear it when I am alone and free from distractions.

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Read the rest of the post on Burner Photography – Traveling Alone through the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Besthike information page – PARIA CANYON

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The Great Eastern Trail

From Section Hiker:

I love the Appalachian Trail, but on weekends and in the summer time, it can feel really crowded.

In fact, the ATC estimates that 4 million people hike on the AT each year, and a lot of their trail maintenance and stewardship efforts go toward mitigating their impact on the surrounding environment and other visitors’ experiences. Repairing overuse damage, building privies, and adding more campsites is necessary to contain an ever increasing number of visitors each year.

So when I learned about the Great Eastern Trail (GET), I was intrigued. It’s a new 2000 mile, long distance trail that will lie west of the AT and pass through Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virgina, Maryland, Pennsylvania and New York, linking the Florida Trail to the North Country Trail. …

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larger version

click through for more information on this terrific under construction thru hiking adventure – The Great Eastern Trail

It will (eventually) link the Florida National Scenic Trail in the south to the North Country National Scenic Trail in New York.

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TOP 7 THOUSAND-MILE TREKS

A headline in ALL CAPS ??

Am I CRAZY !!

A list this over-the-top deserves them.

Adventure Journey — The Extreme Traveler’s Handbook — makes 7 bold picks … DESERVING OF ALL CAPS.

7) Heysen Trail – Cape Jervis to the Parachilna Gorge, South Australia
6) Pacific Northwest Trail – Cape Alava, WA to Glacier National Park
5) Tarifa, Spain to the border of Switzerland
4) Nouakchott, Mauritania to Timbukto, Mali
3) San Carlos de Bariloche to Rio Gallegos, Argentina
2) Jammu > Srinagar > Leh > Shimla, India
1) North-south full traverse of Madagascar

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details – TOP 7 THOUSAND-MILE TREKS

Actually, I am quite impressed with their list. It’s gutsy and informed. That walk in Argentina would be FANTASTIC.

I’d like to subscribe to Adventure Journey … but they have no RSS feed. Ah ha, Google Reader could not discover an RSS feed … BUT, it’s right there on the top of the page. (if I had only looked.)

Thanks MadMardigan.

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Survivorman – publish, not perish

… how do you like that headline, Tom?

From the sun-scorched sands of the Kalahari to the snake-infested jungles of the Amazon, Les Stroud has survived it all. Now, the creator, producer, and host of the hit television show Survivorman shares his field-tested expertise and gives you a no-nonsense look at the real world of survival. …

Survivorman.ca

Now he’s an author. I’m adding his new book to my Christmas wish list:

Essential Skills and Tactics to Get You Out of Anywhere - Alive

Survive!: Essential Skills and Tactics to Get You Out of Anywhere – Alive

I’ll add my thanks to the many others who love the reality TV show that Les Stroud did SOLO for three season. That’s impressive.

The first two seasons are available on DVD:

  • Survivorman
  • Survivorman: Collection 2

    • (via The Smoky Mountain Hiking Blog)

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    Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Peru

    When I was there, I was immensely reminded of the Mediterranean.

    I’m thinking of South America now as it’s Spring in Patagonia.

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    Lake Titicaca south of Yampupata

    Gorgeous.

    The best trip report is found on Photodiary of a Nomad:

    Our walk started from the Hostal Imperio del Sol, our accommodation on the island with views across the Isla de la Luna to the snow-capped 6000m plus mountains of the Cordillera Real. This magnificent range, crowned by the 6429m peak of Cerro Jankhouma, was a constant companion on our wanderings up and down the island. …

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    read more – Lake Titicaca and the Isla del Sol

    Isla del Sol is one of our best hikes in South America.