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West Highland HIGH Way, Scotland

Pete Lockey is a hiker / cyclist who has done many big trips around the world.

He noted my disappointment with the West Highland Way this past Summer, and recommended an alternative:

I was looking for a decent long distance walk in Scotland. The West Highland Way didn’t really appeal, but I found a book describing a route called the Highland High Way which was a high level version of the WHW, and looked a lot more interesting. The book itself described the route as “a magnificent high-level route through some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery and across some of its finest hills”.

It started in Drymen and finished at Fort William, going in the same direction as the WHW, and sharing many of the overnight stops, but instead of sticking to the valley bottoms it took in high level traverses and summits, including 23 munros. There were 8 one day-stages from start to finish, plus 4 optional ‘day-excursions’ which came back to the same place so could be done without carrying all the camping gear. It all sounded ideal, and I booked a week and a half vacation at the end of May, on the basis that the weather might be OK then, and it would hopefully be too early for the midges. …

read his detailed trip report and see the photos – Highland High Way – May 2009

wild camping near Ben Vorlich ridge

This looks far more appealing than the “regular” West Highland Way:

* Final munro total: 23 munros (of which I actually saw 13 of them)
* Total Distance: 235 km (146 miles)
* Total Ascent: 18000m (59055 ft)
* Average ascent per day: 1636m (5369 ft)
* Average walking time per day: 9 hrs 40 mins
* Hilliest day: Rowardenan to Ben Vorlich – 2505m (8218 ft)

The 1996 book he used may be hard to find.

The Highland High Way: A High-level Walking Route from Loch Lomond to Fort William by Heather Connon (Author), Paul Roper (Author).

Amazon U.K. claims to have 6 copies available right now.

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the sorry campgrounds of Hawaii

Over the past 3 years I’ve checked out or tented most of the official campgrounds on Kauai and Maui.

Despite being an outdoor tropical paradise, the campground situation on those 2 islands is a mess.

Your choices include National Campgrounds, State Campgrounds, County Campgrounds and a few private campgrounds.

Though inexpensive, the problem is actually getting a campsite permit for the State and County locations. You must find an administrative office and get there during office hours. You cannot simply show up at the campground at dusk.

Here are some signs I saw 2009 posted at the Waianapanapa State Park campground office on Maui.

no-permit-no-camping

notice

Looks like morale is low. Budget tight.

In fact, the County of Maui has closed campgrounds recently: Baldwin and Rainbow.

The cabins at Waianapanapa are oft called the the best lodging deal on Maui, but they get mixed reviews.

=== Best for tenting – Kauai or Maui?

Kuaia is generally better and more relaxed than Maui. When I camped without a permit in Kauai I was awoken by a friendly officer who informed me that I needed to go to an administrative office, … then charged me $5 cash instead of the usual $3 permit fee. I was very happy with that compromise.

But both islands could and should offer far better tenting than they do now.

=== Dislaimer:

Before you leave an angry comment, I did find a few good campgrounds. Mostly in the National Parks.

I stayed 2 nights free at the superb Kipahulu Campground on Maui. Loved it … despite the fact that drinking water is not available.

tent

Hosmer Grove I liked too. It’s also free. But why don’t they expand the tenting area?

The two wilderness campsites in the Halekala volcano are both great, especially Paluku.

tent-volcano

The Kokee State Park campground on Kauai is superb.

Kokee

I loved, too, the wilderness campground at the end of the Kalalau Trail on Kauai.

tent-on-beach

Most of the Kauai beach campgrounds, however, are filled with loud party animals. Locals use them as party sites 7 nights a week.

What Hawaii really needs is more private campgrounds. Camp Olowalu on Maui is the best private on the island. It would be great … except for the traffic roaring by all night long. And the big dogs running free that threatened while I was there.

=== Are things going to improve?

The Big Island finally has an online system for buying your Camping Permits. Nice.

Leave a comment if you have an opinion on Hawaiian campgrounds.

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best tenting pillow

by site editor Rick McCharles

Many people I know don’t sleep well in tents. Hikers included.

Myself, I often sleep poorly the first night … and quite well subsequent nights.

Critical for me is the pillow.

Here’s my current system:

air-mattress-and-pillow

I wrap the pillow with a fleece top.

The waterproof orange bag is sold by MEC as a “Pack Liner”. It weighs only 86gms and fits up to a 40litre pack.

Most of the bag is filled with a folded, partly inflated 3/4in, 3/4 length therm-a-rest air mattress, no longer available. (I can use any air mattress.)

therm-a-rest
Some loose clothing, down jacket and stuff sacks are added to the bottom.

I use this therm-a-rest as the frame of my pack, as well.

This pillow is almost as good as the one I use at home.

… more photos

related – video: how I pack my backpack

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Iao Valley day hike, Maui

The easiest walk you might call a “hike” on Maui I would still recommend for everyone.

It’s very pretty.

the-needle
The Needle

… The highlight of the park of course is Iao Needle, a 2,250 foot tall pinnacle. Due to its height, the Needle is often shrouded in clouds of fog, making for interesting photo opportunities.

There is a short paved trail that goes to a viewpoint, but better photos are from the bridge near the start of the trail. An additional short trails loop down along Iao Stream, which I believe offers the best photos.

Also to be discovered, is an inviting trail that leads farther into the lush rainforest. Unfortunately the trail is accompanied by a “No Trespassing” sign. Proceed at your own risk. …

Iao Needle – A 2,250 Foot Tall Pinnacle

The main hiking trail is paved and wheelchair accessible.

There are a number of gardens and historical markers to visit, as well.

statues-Iao-Valley

It was here that I saw more feral cats than anywhere else on Maui.

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getting Nepal trekking permits

If you sign up with a trekking company, they take care of your permits.

But if you hike independently, you’ll need to get your own. The recommended way is to pick them up in Kathmandu in advance of your trek.

Back in 1997 it was a Royal pain to get a permit. Long line-ups. It took a half day minimum. We laughed when, in comparison, it was so easy to make a “donation” to the Maoists on the Annapurna Circuit. The rebels were so much more organized, friendly and efficient. Every donation was issued a receipt.

Times have changed. It’s easy to get your advance permits now in Kathmandu.

The document on the left is my entrance fee to the National Park on the Everest Trek. (US$13.50) Park entry fees vary depending on where you hike.

IMGA0734.JPG

On most of the major hikes, independent trekkers must get a TIMS. That’s the card on the right.

After trying and failing to introduce a trekking permit system that would force independent trekkers to take a licenced guide, the government compromised in 2008 by introducing the Trekking Information Management System (TIMS) …

Lonely Planet

It’s free. But you need bring 2 passport photos and a photocopy of your passport.

more information – timsnepal.com

Get your photo of Edmund and Tenzing near the Entry Permit desk.

IMGA0735.JPG

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best of the Bibbulmun Track, Australia

The Bibbulmun Track is a long distance walk trail in Western Australia, … almost 1000 km long. The name comes from the Bibbulmun, or Noongar people, Indigenous Australians from the Perth area.

Dave Tomlinson gives some tips on best sections, water, fuel and tenting vs shelters:

Our Hiking Blog – Bibbulmun Track – Advice and tips on this long distance hike

Bibbulmun

more photos tagged “Bibbulmun”

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Waianapanapa State Park, Maui

There are a number of day hikes, short and long, out of uber popular Waiʻanapanapa State Park.

The park includes … seabird colonies, anchialine pools, native hala (Pandanus tectorius) forest, caves, heiau (religious temple), a natural arch, sea stacks, blowholes and a small black sand beach….

Waianapanapa-map

You can walk to Hana (3mi) along the coast, if you like. I walked most of that, often closer to the water than the official trail. Some call this the WAI’ANAPANAPA COASTAL TRAIL.

A few pics:

Wainapanapa-Park

rocky-shore-cliffs

chair-on-shoreline

Close to the parking lot, the most popular attraction is this black sand beach.

black-sand-beach

All very pretty. Especially the contrasting bright green vegetation against dark black lava stone.

rocky-islet

see the rest of my photos

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Sliding Sands trail, Maui

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

I’m happy to report that the most popular hike on Maui is one of the best walks in the world. Greeting the dawn atop this volcano is one of the ultimate Hawaiian experiences.

hikers-atop-volcano

I tented at nearby Hosmer Grove Campground so to not need to drive far in the dark.

My down parka was most useful at that cold altitude. (Many tourists are under dressed, wrapped in beach towels and hotel blankets.)

… next day climbed the remaining nine thousand feet, and anchored on the summit, where we built a fire and froze and roasted by turns, all night. …

Mark Twain

Soon after dawn it’s time to begin the famed Sliding Sands trail.

crater

From Trailspotting:

Explore cinder cones and lava flows in the desolate basin of Maui’s Haleakala, possibly the largest dormant volcano on the planet.

Formed by erosion rather than volcanic activity, the valley at the summit of Haleakala boasts much to marvel at, and the packed cinder and soil underfoot makes for a relatively easy hike. Here you’ll find the silversword, an endangered plant found nowhere else on Earth with an alien appearance that compounds the other-worldly appearance of this remote location.

Ascending and looping up the mountain, the road to Haleakala National Park is equally spectacular, climbing through the clouds to the summit. Watch out for tour groups of cyclists on this road who freewheel down the mountain. These popular tours begin in the early hours of the morning so they can witness the sunrise over the island from the summit before they begin their two-wheeled kamikaze return back down the volcano. …

read more (photos, video, GPS, etc.) – Maui: Haleakala Volcano Trail

I went as far as the cinder cone of Ka Lu’u o ka O’o (spelling varies) and backtracked to my vehicle. That’s about 4mi (6.4km).

sliding-sands-trail

No need to go that far, however. The views are great everywhere … if the vista is clear. Go as far as you want. Savvy hikers check the weather report in advance before making the long, dangerous drive to the summit.

On a nice day you can see a big island volcano.

volcano-big-island

Views over Maui are impressive too.

Maui-from-above

Be aware of various dumb, inevitably endangered birds that chase tourists for handouts. They tend to get run over on this highway, as do the downhill cyclists. And cows.

birds

see the rest of my Sliding Sands photos

related caution – Washington Post – Dawn at Haleakala? Think Again

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the future of climbing – buildings

I’ve just subscribed to the CheapTents.com Outdoor Gear Blog.

A very interesting perspective with much original content.

I liked a commentary on the illegal climb of Blackpool Tower, in Lancashire, U.K. this past August.

Blackpool-Tower

… At 158m the Blackpool Tower is pretty high, and for some climbers the thought of climbing an iconic structure is irresistible. Obviously we are not suggesting that anyone should go out and illegally climb a tower. But, if you could climb any tower, legally, in complete safety and with appropriate climbing gear, which tower would you climb?

Blackpool Tower Climb

Another post goes on to speculate …

Three enjoyable things about going hiking are

• getting a great view from the top of a summit,
• being in the countryside and
• getting exercise.

Vertical farms will offer all three of these things! …

What’s a Vertical farm?

vertical-farm

… a proposal to conduct large-scale agriculture in urban high-rises or “farmscrapers”. Using recycled resources and greenhouse methods such as hydroponics, these buildings would produce fruit, vegetables, edible mushrooms and algae year-round. …

The editor of the CheapTents.com Outdoor Gear Blog proposes we build them so they can be used for fitness, as well. Great idea.

Check out that post – The Future of Hiking