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North Coast Trail – day 4

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Shuttleworth to Nissen Bight

My German friends were first out of Camp. Again.

Often I’m slow to depart, hoping trying to dry my gear before packing up.

A pretty morning.

I crossed the Strandby River cable car with the girls.

Many have painful feet by this point in the adventure. Mine were still OK, lucky since I only wore low cut approach shoes without gaiters.

With all this mud, next time on the NCT I’d wear Water Walking Shoes. Like these Five Ten Canyoneers.

Those worked well for me in Paria Canyon, Virgin Narrows and the West Coast Trail.

Downside?

Risk of puncturing them on a sharp branch or rock.

But aside from the rocks, most everything in this climate is soft, rotting, rounded or blunted.

I found only one thorny plant in a week.

Not much flora can harm you on this trek. There is some Cow Parsnip, which might cause skin irritation.

Unless you know what you’re doing, don’t eat any of the amazing lichen or mushrooms.

The walking gets easier and easier as you go West, as promised. You enjoy more coastal sections, less in the trees.

This was my favourite surface — dried sea weed.

You end up walking many beached logs. As a former gymnast, the balance required doesn’t intimidate. 🙂

I wish they could reroute more muddy sections over fallen logs.

Hard packed sand makes for excellent footing, too. You test each beach to find the best sand.

Personally, I try to stay on the coast, even if the walking’s more difficult. On this section I happened upon some nice tidal pools.

Though the North Coast Trail is more difficult, for some reason I fall more on the West Coast Trail.

WCT (3 times) = average 1 fall to the ground / day
NCT (1 time) = fell only twice over 7 days

… perhaps the sample size is too small. 🙂

Best advice — when you fall, pull in limbs, try to land on your pack. You want the pack to take as much of the impact as possible.

The Germans and I decided to skip Laura Creek. And go all the way to Nissen Bight.

For me that was 9hrs on foot. A long day.

At Nissen the water source is at one end of the beach, 900m away from the pit toilet. … Who’s stupid idea was that?

After traipsing back and forth, I ran out of stove fuel in any case … No hot dinner for me. Sheiss.

I really need to get one of the “twig” stoves.

more photos


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North Coast Trail – day 3

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Sutil to Shuttleworth Bight

A short day planned, still I packed up early. Left my backpack with the kayakers. And headed out to explore Cape Sutil off-trail.

From high vantage I saw the girls finally arriving.

Sutil Cape is impressive. I got far enough to see this bird rock.

Bird life?

You spend a lot of time with seagulls. I did see a few distant bald eagles. And visited with a few ravens. But not as many as on other west coast hikes.

I was surprised to see two loons on the ocean at one Bay. I thought they were exclusively fresh water.

The flying highlight for me was the Steller’s Jay, Provincial bird of B.C.

There are entertaining to watch.

Walking is easiest on the rugged coasts of Vancouver Island at low tide.

Tidal pools on my trip were good, but not as good as I’d seen on the WCT or Juan de Fuca. Nor are there as many. The highlight for me was colourful starfish.

There are dozens of assistance ropes hung to assist on steep sections. But the ones everyone remembers best are these.

At times the grade ranges from 70 degrees to vertical. And they are LONG.

Straight UP. Straight DOWN. Straight UP. Straight DOWN.

This excellent video — shot by another group earlier this Summer — at 3min 8sec gives you a good idea of what the ropes are like. That’s the worst the trail throws up to challenge those afraid of heights.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. (3min 8sec)

Ropes are mainly needed for descent. I tended to avoid them on the climbs. Roots are better and more stable.

Those folks were crazy to take dogs out there, by the way. 😦 A really bad idea with so much wildlife here. At least 2 dogs have fought with wolves this summer.

We were tremendously LUCKY with the WEATHER. Seven days, no real rain.
Coastal hiking is paradise when the sun is shining.

This helicopter fly-over Shuttleworth Bight gives you a good idea of the wonderful terrain.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

That’s why I came to hike the North Coast Trail. 🙂

more photos


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running the West Coast Trail

My longtime friend Greg Kolodziejzyk:

I’ve always thought that a person needs to do one thing every year that scares the crap out of them. I’m very happy to have checked that item off my to do list for this year!

I just ran the West Coast Trail – solo.…

Helen and I arrived at the Gordon river by 5:45 am on Sunday morning, and I quietly slipped the cheap $29 inflatable dingy into the dead-calm Gordon river in pitch darkness by the light of the rental car head lights, and my triple A battery powered head lamp. …

… “What the hell am I doing here?” was the question I was asking myself as I started to struggle up the extremely technical trail at 6:15 am by the light of my little headlamp. It was so dark, and I could only see a few feet in front of me – and, it was TOUGH going! The first section is a 600 foot climb through roots, mud, fallen tress, jagged rocks, boulders, puddles – yikes! …

The west coast trail either runs inland through the forest, or along the beach, or both. By both, I mean either, as in the hiker or runner must choose. Sometimes a beach section is faster if the forest trail is muddy, or log strewn, or excessively hilly, or requires climbing up huge ravines by a system of numerous ladders …

… all of which are exhausting and time consuming. Sometimes the beach sections are difficult due to soft, unrunnable sand, sea weed covered slippery rock shelves, impassable headlands due to high tides, or just downright dangerous with evil surge channels that must be vaulted over. Each time I was faced with the forest or beach option, I had to weigh the pros and cons, dangers and advantages, then commit to my decision and go. …

Read the entire trip report on Adventures of Greg

He survived, in case you are wondering. Here celebrating — and recovering — next day.

Helen and Greg

Watch the 7min video of Greg’s run.

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North Coast Trail – day 2

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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Skinner Nahwitti Stretch to Cape Sutil

Skinner Creek – photo via Coast & Kayak

New day. More MUD.

It IS possible to hike along the beach from Skinner Creek to Nahwitti River at low tide. (Start a couple of hours before low tide, if you can.)

Another day. Another BEAR.

Stumbling out of the trees at this beach — there was a bear. Studiously ignoring me.

I quietly scrambled atop this rocky outcropping. No bear could get up there.

I read my book. And then left a Summit Stone in a crack on top. 🙂

Many feel the Nahwitti Stretch is even more difficult than day 1 Shushartie Overland, but I liked it much better. There’s plenty of variety. Plenty of entertainment.

For example, the Nahwitti River Cable Car.

Now that’s FUN. I did not see any sign of spawning salmon, however. Perhaps it’s too early in the season.

FUN too are the longest stairs on the Trail — “Long Leg Hill”.

Hikers praise aloud those who built these, let me tell you. 🙂

The West Coast Trail has ladders. The NCT stairs. Many.

And ropes. … Have I mentioned the ropes, as yet?

So far as I saw, there’s only one truly impassable headland on the official North Coast Trail — at km 43.2.

Late, I arrived at high tide, and was obliged to lie down for a nap.

At some point later the girls arrived, needing to wait as well. They were more than mildly surprised when I popped up out-of-nowhere from my sleep.

As we found out the following day, the girls never actually made it to Sutil that night. Due to knee pain and failing light, they decided to wild camp in one of the pocket coves just short of Sutil, having to “hang” their food from bears, wolves and (perhaps) hyenas. 🙂

If the ladies had known in advance they were too late to get through, they could have stopped at Nahwitti River campsite.

The tent platforms on the NCT are fantastic. If it’s raining, you definitely try to set-up on these.

On arriving at the beautiful big beach at Sutil, I was astonished to find 3 kayaks and 4 kayakers, just dropped by the water taxi, starting a 2wk adventure. (I wished I’d come in with them to start hiking here.)

It was a birthday party. I felt obliged to finish off the leftovers from their heavy dinner. And to drink their heavy wine. And warm myself at their friendly fire.

As dusk fell we sipped wine, … and wondered whatever happened to the girls.

No search party was launched.

more photos


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North Coast Trail – day 1

Sept 2012 trip report by site editor Rick McCharles


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My cost = $256:
$90 – water taxi (6 people)
$75 – shuttle from San Josef (10 people)
$10 – map
$60 – trail fees (6 nights x $10)
… plus 12% tax

Shushartie to Skinner Creek

Sunday morning, Port Hardy. End of the World.

The N.W. corner of Vancouver Island is remote, even for Canada.

I was early arriving at the offices of the North Coast Trail Shuttle at Quarterdeck Marina, allowing time for one LAST restaurant breakfast.

It didn’t take long to load 6 hikers and gear. Departure shortly after 8am.

Skipper, George, filled us in on what to expect. It sounded much tougher than what I’d been thinking.

En route we saw our first bear of many.

On arriving Shushartie Bay, we spot a wolf.


That’s actually the first wolf I’ve ever seen in the wild.

Seas were calm and we stepped ashore easily.

Skipper, after unloading, maneuvered his boat to capture some unique footage. A moma bear with 3 cubs.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

She’s training them to hunt for small crabs. (VIDEO)

Moma finally “puts the run” to the wolf. (40sec)

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I assume the wolf was hoping to nab one of the cubs.

Skipper’s spent a lot of time in these wilds, but he’d never seen anything like that before.

So here we are. Still clean and healthy.

3 young ladies from Calgary & Victoria. A couple from Germany who had done this same hike in 2011 — and returned in 2012 because they enjoyed it so much. And one hiking blogger, already out of line.

Most on this trail are from BC, Alberta and Germany. As we were.

We did the “standard” North Coast Trail — starting at km 58.1 and working backwards. … Yes — counter-intuitive for a Trail officially opened in only 2008.

Enjoy the view at km 57. That’s the last time you’ll see the Ocean for many hours.

Enthusiastic to get started, I was quickly depressed by MUD.

The only fun sections this day are new boardwalk, this being one of the best.

Plenty more construction material has been helicoptered in — with which to build more boardwalk. But I heard the budget had run out. Even with cash I’m not sure this stretch of trail will ever be worth hiking.

No sea views, a mud slog of 8.7km from Shushartie to Skinner Creek has little to commend itself. Avoid it if you can. It can take 9hrs or more for some groups!

… Yep. An hour / km. That’s dead slow.

That photo’s actually from the infamous South Coast Track in Tasmania. This hike rivals for infamy.

Another hiker, JT, calls this the “North Coast Swamp“.

The girls had rented a marine radio from North Coast Trail Shuttle. If they called for help, rescue costs $1000.


But what do you do if someone is injured far inland, hours from the sea?

😦

How can you avoid the day 1 mud slog, you ask?

Request the water taxi to drop you at Skinner. Or even Sutil, instead.

They can — IF sea conditions allow. The water taxi can make it to Shushartie almost every day, but not necessarily any further.

There was a bear on Skinner when we finally arrived — as there often is — our 6th bear of the day. But I was too tired even to notice.

Good night.

More photos.


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6 nights, 6 beach camps – North Coast Trail, BC

No rain for a week in Cape Scott Provincial Park. How about that?

See the high resolution versions on flickr.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

My hiking buddy Damien, trained as an officer in the Swiss Army, hates sand. Especially tenting in sand. It ruins zippers and gets into everything.

This dry, fine sand was no problem. It was a joy to camp on sand every night.


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starting North Coast Trail Sunday

by site editor Rick McCharles

The North Coast Trail is a 43.1 km wilderness hiking trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park on northern Vancouver Island …

With essential sidetrips my distance will be at least 61km. …

The NCT is new, official grand opening held on May 10th, 2008.

Itinerary:

Bus Saturday to Port Hardy. I’ll stay at the North Coast Trail Backpacker’s Hostel.

Sunday morning 8am the North Coast Trail Shuttle water taxi departs for Shushartie Bay.

I’ll hike East to West.

Wild Coast Magazine has the best maps.

I’ll finish at Cape Scott Provincial Park, San Josef River trailhead. Returning to Port Hardy over 64km of logging roads by North Coast Trail Shuttle van.

… This is a very challenging route and is not recommended for inexperienced hikers. Many sections require hikers to climb over or along fallen trees, to cross through deep mud, and to use fixed ropes to climb up and over steep sections. It is not recommended for those with a fear of heights. …

… a wilderness area with minimal supplies or equipment of any kind. It is not regularly patrolled, so hikers should be completely self sufficient. …

Wish me luck. 🙂

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The Way – Randall St. Germain

The Way of St. James … (Spanish: El Camino de Santiago) … is the pilgrimage route to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the apostle Saint James are buried. …

… existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times, together with Rome and Jerusalem, and a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned …

.. many pilgrims continue from Santiago de Compostela to the Atlantic coast of Galicia, to finish their journeys at Spain’s westernmost point, Cape Finisterre. …

… pilgrim’s hostels with beds in dormitories dot the common routes, providing overnight accommodation …

Staying at hostels usually cost between five and ten euros per night per bed in a dormitory, although a few hostels … operate on voluntary donations. Pilgrims are usually limited to one night’s accommodation and are expected to leave by eight in the morning to continue their pilgrimage. …

Canadian Randall St. Germain did the 500mi (800km) French Way averaging 26mi (40km) a day.

Camino de Santiago in 20 Days: My Way on the Way of St. James is essential reading for anyone foolish enough to fancy the French Way.

Randall is not a professional writer. Unlike more poetic pilgrimage reports, Randall details the awful weather, dog bites, exhaustion, bed bugs, … 😦

It’s unvarnished.

Randall:

Never to be included on the final list of Pulitzer Prize nominees, or in Oprah’s Book Club, Camino de Santiago in 20 Days is not your granddaddy’s Camino book, either.

I wanted to maintain the integrity of my Camino from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. My writing had to be honest and based on events which actually happened. I know some of it may be dry, but I wanted to keep my journey intact and not make up anything, including dialogue. Believe me, if I made sh*t up, this book would be far more entertaining.

Randall carried a tent the entire Way — and never slept in it. Yet he hates the hostels. Hates smokers, snorers and farters. … In fact he’s not all that fond of people.

Randall’s foot problems alone are enough to turn away most pilgrims. Not to mention the lack of toilets.

Still interested? …

Check his website – Camino My Way

Or friend him on Facebook. As you might have guessed, Randall went back to the Camino …

Me? … I’m still leaning towards mountain biking The Way. Inspired and informed by Randall, I’ll be tenting it every night.

Mine was a review copy. Thanks Randall!

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The Way – the film

The Way is a 2010 American drama film. It is a collaboration between Martin Sheen and his son Emilio Estevez to honour the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) and promote the traditional pilgrimage. …

Plot

Thomas Avery is an American ophthalmologist who goes to France following the death of his adult son, killed in the Pyrenees during a storm while walking the Camino …

Tom’s purpose is initially to retrieve his son’s body. However, in a combination of grief and homage to his son, Tom decides to walk the ancient spiritual trail where his son died. …

He reluctantly falls in with three other pilgrims …. Joost is an overweight man from Amsterdam who says he is walking the route to lose weight … Sarah … is fleeing an abusive husband, who says she is walking the pilgrimage to quit smoking. Jack is an Irish travel writer who when younger had desires to be great author like Yeats or Joyce but never wrote the novel he dreamed of. …

The film has been well received. It has garnered a “Certified Fresh” rating of 82% on the review aggregator website Rotten Tomatoes …

The consensus description is: “It may be a little too deliberately paced for more impatient viewers, but The Way is a worthy effort from writer/director Emilio Estevez, balancing heartfelt emotion with clear-eyed drama that resists cheap sentiment.”

It is pretty good. I’m still leaning towards mountain biking The Way, however, rather than walking it.

I joined Netflix.ca in order to FINALLY watch this film. 🙂

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Desolation Wilderness – Bayview to Echo

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

In 2008 I linked to John Fedac’s Tahoe Rim trip report:

… Hands down the best TRT leg is the 35 miles between Barker Pass to Echo Lake in the Desolation Wilderness over Dicks Pass. (With a side trip to summit Mt Tallac for its unparalleled Tahoe view) …

This summer I finally got the chance to walk a couple of days out of Tahoe myself.

Desolation Wilderness is a 63,690-acre (257.7 km2) federally protected wilderness area located along the crest of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, just southwest of Lake Tahoe …

… a popular backpacking destination, with much barren rocky terrain at the edge of the tree line: it has extensive areas of bare granite. …

Fedak and I dropped my vehicle at the Echo Lakes Trailhead. Then he drove me to pay for my overnight Wilderness Permit.

Finally, after some consideration of how much time I had, he recommended I start at Bayview trailhead.

climbing up out of Bayview

The weather was terrific, so, the day I was there, everyone was scrambling Dick’s Peak as a side trip.

Rick on Dicks

I left a Summit Stone.

The view was terrific. But I spent most of my time trying to capture photos of the dozens of butterflies blown up top.

I camped that night at Gilmore Lake campground for easy access to Mt Tallac. The lake is only 1400ft (427m) below the summit.

I sprinted that ascent, in any case, early next morning … pursued by hordes of mosquitoes.

vista over Lake Tahoe from Tallac

Mosquitoes are bad here. At some lakes. Some times. I got a bit unlucky. These were the first mosquitoes I’ve ever seen during many hiking trips in California.

Fedak had warned me. So I had a head net.

The highlight of my trip was the section passing Lake Aloha, a stunning glacier carved granite basin.

Here’s Pyramid Peak, the highest point in Desolation.

I finished here at Echo Lakes Trailhead.

A superb day hike is catching the boat. Romping around Aloha. And returning same day, either catching the boat back to your vehicle … Or walking the last bit, time and energy allowing.

See the rest of my photos from this 2 day hike.

Thanks John Fedak. 🙂

Check his annotated photo trip reports at Fedak.net.