Amphitheater trek, South Africa

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

Within 36hrs of landing in JoBurg I found myself atop the Amphitheater cliffs looking down at one of the highest waterfalls in the world.

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How did I get here?

It’s easy.

Catch the Baz Bus to Amphitheater backpackers in the northern Drakensberg.

While checking into the hostel, sign up for their most popular guided hike. It’s offered about every 2nd day for about $50 all inclusive.

7:30am departure.

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Here’s our guide “Sim” parking one of the hiker shuttle vans at Sentinel car park 2,500m (8,200 ft). This is the only official day hiking trail leading to the top of the Drakensberg escarpment.

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Yep. That’s the Sentinel. You cannot climb it without ropes. We’ll skirt the base.

The trail zigzags up towards the big peak. Then traverses right.

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Entirely above the treeline, we did not see much in the way of wildlife. Aside from lizards, of course.

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It was an easy start with perfect weather.

One short ladder on the ascent.

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The crux of the hike is up this gorge.

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It’s a 300m scramble. Not too difficult overall.

Atop the Amphitheater cliffs, we stopped for lunch. Our guides were disappointed that clouds obscured the fantastic views.

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Note the big birds that stopped for lunch with us.

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20min further is the top of Tugela Falls.

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The water is quite warm. … I’m told.

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Our guide told us that one hiker fell from here on a winter trek. Slipped on the ice.

Finally I called on the old Gods and new to dissipate the clouds.

Everything opened up. And we were shocked to see where we’d been standing so casually.

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It’s about 1km down.

The Amphitheatre is widely regarded as one of the most impressive cliff faces on earth, over 5km (3.1mi) in length.

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Surprisingly, these cliffs are not much used for BASE jumping and the ilk. Apparently winds are not favourable here.

One girl from Finland had been to Roraima via Venezuela. She said there were definitely similarities with the top of the Tupuis there …

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… But many differences too.

The standard route is a Lollypop loop. Rather than backtracking we descended via long ladders.

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From the bottom, it was another cliff traverse to regain our original trail.

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The vegetation in South Africa is different than what I’m used to. The most interesting plant is this … Pineapple something.

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One intensely scenic day. We all left happy.

This New Yorker was on the last 4 days of 2 years of traveling.

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Back at the car park we enjoyed a gymnastics performance.

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And saw one sleepy snake close to where we parked the vans.

more pics from this trek

I didn’t delete many photos as most up there in the Bergs were cool. 🙂

related – Controversy Between Tugela Falls and Angel Falls as World’s Tallest Waterfall

arrived Drakensberg

Just checked in at Amphitheatre Backpackers in the northern Drakensberg. Superb location. Weather is great for January.

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South Africa is incredibly easy to travel staying in hostels like these. Getting around by Baz Bus.

I’m already booked for the essential Amphitheatre trek tomorrow, guided. That takes us to the top of Tugela Falls (Thukela Falls), a total drop of 947 metres.

The day after we’ll take a cultural hike in Lesotho. Or climb Cathedral peak — if enough people sign up. 🙂

• Thukela Gorge Walk trip report (Sept)

related – India hates tourists

Annapurna Base Camp

Adventure Blog:

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp has long been seen as one of the best hikes in the world. Wandering through the Himalaya in Nepal, the trail takes backpackers through remote mountain villages, over high passes, and through scenic valleys, before eventually arriving at the base of the 8091 meter (26,545 ft) peak. …

Video: Trekking To Annapurna Base Camp

Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.

http://vimeo.com/83984068

Epic Treks

I’ve just subscribed to a site new to me. It lists hundreds of great treks around the world — though I was dubious after seeing the Inca Trail ranked #1. 😦

It’s not even one of the best hikes to Machu Picchu.

Here’s their top 10:

1 Inca Trail
2 Mt. Kilimanjaro
3 Tour du Mont Blanc
4 Torres del Paine Trek
5 Everest Base Camp
6 Annapurna Circuit
7 Routeburn Track
8 West Coast Trail
9 John Muir Trail
10 Tongariro Northern Circuit

full list – epictreks.com

Up front on the site is this truth:

The idea of ranking a trek is ridiculous. To claim that one trek is superior to another is complete conjecture. But everyone loves a good ranking. …

Check it out.

Epic Treks

The now defunct Get Outdoors blog called rankings like this “meaningless lists“. 🙂

researching the Drakensberg

I’m off to South Africa. By the weekend you’ll find me at Amphitheatre Backpackers in the northern ‘berg.

Drakensberg

My only guidebook, so far, is Cicerone Walking in the Drakensberg by Jeff Williams.

That hostel provides a hiker’s shuttle to Royal Natal National Park.

The Bell

Leave a comment if you have advice on best hikes in the Drakensberg.

my next sleeping bag – Backcountry Bed

Sean McCoy:

… Why it took a company so long to figure out this simple design I will never know, but the to-be-released Backcountry Bed from Sierra Designs (which we awarded a Best In Show at the 2013 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market) is a somewhat revolutionary way to sleep outside.

The Backcountry Bed design is so simple it’s silly. Basically a sleeping bag with a large hole cut out of the middle section, the “bed” uses an attached blanket to close the hole instead of a zipper. The blanket can be pulled up around the user to seal the opening.

The Backcountry Bed will hit the market in early 2014. …

Gear Junkie – Not A Mummy: Zipper-less Design Offers New Sleeping Bag Experience

backcountry bed

Mike Howarth – Manaslu Circuit

I spent over 2wks with Mike in Nepal, 10 days on the Manaslu Circuit. Along with:

Brion & Betsy – the not so newly weds.
Tasha & Ivan – the Alaskan powerhouses

A few of his photos:

Summit Stones

Nepali girl

Manaslu

Rakshi

Mike’s a true photographer. I’m more of a fauxtographer. 🙂

Here’s Mike’s trip report on our adventure.

see all of Mike’s Manaslu photos on flickr

Mike’s now down in Patagonia, trekking and cycling north towards the equator.

the Nepalese Royal massacre and the mess today

The governance of Nepal has been sorrowful compared with neighbors India and Bhutan.

The Nepalese monarchy persisted 240 years until 2008.

The 1990s saw the beginning of the Nepalese Civil War (1996–2006), a conflict fought between government forces and the insurgent forces of the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist). The situation for the Nepalese monarchy was further destabilised by the 2001 Nepalese royal massacre, in which Crown Prince Dipendra reportedly shot and killed ten people, including his father King Birendra, and was himself mortally wounded by what was allegedly a self-inflicted gunshot.

As a result of the massacre, King Gyanendra returned to the throne. His imposition of direct rule in 2005 provoked a protest movement unifying the Maoist insurgency and pro-democracy activists. He was eventually forced to restore Nepal’s House of Representatives, which in 2007 adopted an interim constitution greatly restricting the powers of the Nepalese monarchy. Following an election held the next year, the Nepalese Constituent Assembly formally abolished the kingdom in its first session on 28 May 2008, declaring in its place the establishment of the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal. …

 

The monarchy had governed poorly, not modernizing. A Republic will, hopefully, be an improvement.

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The Nepalese Royal Family as seen in this 1989 photo at the Narayanhiti Palace in Kathmandu. The royal members, from left to right, were Crown Prince Dipendra, King Birendra, Prince Nirajan, Queen Aiswarya and Princes Shruti. An eyewitness to Nepal’s palace bloodbath said on June 7, 2001, the late Crown Prince Dipendra staggered and fell occasionally as he drunkenly mowed down most of his family in just over a minute. (Reuters)

The drunken son used 3 different automatic weapons to mow down his family. No doubt American Gundamentalists found a way to defend his access to those weapons.

The Nepalese Constituent Assembly was … formed as a result of the Constituent Assembly election that was held on April 10, 2008 in Nepal. …

The Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) (CPN (M)) was the largest party in the Constituent Assembly, having won half of the constituency seats and about 30% of proportional representation seats. …

Prachanda … is a Nepali politician and Chairman of the Unified Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) (UCPNM). He led a guerrilla war against the government and later served as Prime Minister of Nepal from 2008 to 2009. …

Power corrupts. Once Prachanda was in charge he took residence in a 15-room mansion and started living a wealthy lifestyle. …

Top Maoists called him corrupt.

Bottom line. Prachanda and the (Maoist) (CPN (M)) party was no more effective in leadership than the monarchy.

In the Nov. 2013 election Prachanda and his party came a distant 3rd.

The centrist Nepali Congress, the Himalayan nation’s oldest party, established itself as the largest group in the 601-member constituent assembly, winning 196 seats …

Looks like Prachanda is history.

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Prachanda escapes bomb blast in western Nepal

What does all this mean for hikers?

Nothing, so far. Certainly there’s no security concern.

I do recall being asked to make a donation to the (Maoist) (CPN (M)) party on Annapurna in 1998. They were very polite. 🙂