Ripley & Arethusa Falls to Frankenstein Cliff

Mt Washington maptrip report by site editor Rick McCharles

In the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt Washington, I had an extra half day end of trip.

Having camped on the west side of Washington, I decided to hike nearby Crawford Notch State Park.

Super popular is Ripley Falls, 1mi there-and-back.

I was surprised to find people rappelling Ripley guided by N.E. mountaineering.

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I was told the rappel was fun. But the water VERY cold.

Many turn back at Ripley.

I continued on in the direction of Arethusa Falls, a rough, muddy and rooty track.

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On the 5th of July, that trail was not busy.

Arethusa, at around 140ft high, the 2nd highest falls in the State, was crowded. Dogs, kids, people unprepared for a serious hike. Most had arrived via the Arethusa Falls trail.

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The highest waterfall in New Hampshire is Dryad Falls, which is seasonal. Arethusa is highest flowing year round.

Rather than backtrack, I decided to return via the Frankenstein Cliff trail.

How could you not want to hike something called “Frankenstein Cliff“?

It was the most interesting of the 3 trails.

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Some cliffside vistas.

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On the way up I’d walked across the train tracks. Coming back the trail ducked under the tracks.

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The only downside of my route was a long walk back along the highway to my rent-a-car.

There are better options than the 7mi+ route I ended up doing. 🙂

Reese Witherspoon on the Pacific Crest Trail

It’s here.

With the dissolution of her marriage and the death of her mother, Cheryl Strayed has lost all hope. After years of reckless, destructive behavior, she makes a rash decision. With absolutely no experience, driven only by sheer determination, Cheryl hikes more than a thousand miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, alone.

WILD powerfully captures the terrors and pleasures of one young woman forging ahead against all odds on a journey that maddens, strengthens, and ultimately heals her.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

The film is based on Cheryl Strayed’s wildly popular memoir. Reese Witherspoon optioned the rights to the book for her upcoming movie even before it became a New York Times bestseller and was selected for Oprah’s Book Club 2.0.

Now the trailer is out for the film, Wild, based on Cheryl Strayed’s 2012 memoir Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail. Starring Witherspoon and directed by Dallas Buyers Club’s Jean-Marc Vallée, the film tells the story of Strayed’s 1,100 mile trek to find herself.

Time

I enjoyed the book. Love Reese Witherspoon. And can hardly wait to see this movie.

However, … to real PCT hikers Cheryl Strayed is a joke. My advice is that Cheryl stay away. Reese is welcome to hike with me any time. 🙂

hiking Mt Washington, New Hampshire

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Mt Washington mapBecause the Presidential Range is in the pathway of several major storm tracks, Mount Washington is known to have a severe combination of wind and cold. The average annual temperature is 27.1°F, the summit temperature has never risen above 72°F, and the mountain holds the world-record for a wind speed of 231 mph, recorded on the summit in 1934.

(Barrow Island, Australia, October 4, 1996 had big wind. Gusts might have even been higher speeds.)

Hurricane-force wind, dense fog, driving rain, and snow occur even during the summer months, and sudden and extreme weather variations are common. Although hazardous conditions do not occur daily, it is important to be aware of the weather before you begin your hike.

outdoors.org

Known as the most dangerous small mountain in the world … (over) 137+ fatalities have occurred since 1849.

Most due to hypothermia.

This mountain is accessible to many poorly prepared and inexperienced hikers. About 50,000 people a year climb the mountain.

Having done very little advance research, I arrived at the excellent Appalachian Mountain Club Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on Route 16. Dozens of hikers lounged around, starting or finishing trips. This is the main trailhead for Washington. The 2 most popular trails start here: Tuckerman Ravine Trail and the Lion Head Trail.

Helpful ladies at the information desk convinced me to climb (next day) the less crowded Jewell route from the west side.

Of the major, direct trails, Jewell is the longest, but probably the least difficult in terms of terrain, with moderate grades throughout.

It reaches treeline at about 3.0 miles, and climbs rockily to the Gulfside Trail at 3.7 miles (5400 feet). This route then follows the Gulfside Trail (passing by the Westside Trail and the Great Gulf Trail) and meets the Crawford Path just below the summit of Mount Washington (6288 feet) which it reaches at 5.1 miles (3900 feet of elevation gain).

mountwashington.org

Here’s a chart comparing the different routes to the summit.

I decided to tent at Fourth Iron walk-in campground ($8 / night) …

P1290895… and hang out at the nearby gorgeous, historic Mount Washington Alpine Resort.

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It was pouring rain the morning of the 4th of July. I decided to sleep in.

That meant I didn’t reach the trailhead until about 11am, still uncertain about whether to hike in the rain.

“Worst weather in the world.”

One Jewell trailhead starts just in front of this train station.

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Turned out I quite enjoyed the first 3hrs of the walk. In the rain.

I placed a Summit Stone at one of the tall stone cairns on the way up.

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Through the fog I heard one of the railway cars, assuming I was approaching the top.

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False summit, it turned out. The train was on its way up.

Finally, getting tired, I reached the summit. Celebrating George Washington on the 4th of July.

P1290917The top of the mountain is crowded with suitcase tourists who have arrived by road or train.

Though I tried to resist, it was too tempting NOT to descend by Cog Railway, despite the $46 one way ticket price.

My train brakeman agreed that Jewell was the easiest and best route. That’s the trail he’s going to hike with his his 12yr-old son.

If you hike from Jewell, it’s worth checking out the free museum. The history of the Cog railway is fascinating.

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Though most do Washington as a day hike, it is possible to overnight in some locations on the mountain. Tenting on the summit is illegal, however.

Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park

Whether you hike or drive, the #1 highlight of Acadia in Maine is the top of Cadillac Mountain.

1808005751_ba0bdc072f_zOverlooking Bar Harbor.

more interesting photos

…  magnificent views of a glaciated coastal and island landscape. …

… the tallest mountain along the eastern coast of the United States. During certain times of the year, it is the first place in the U.S. to see sunrise.

National Park Service

hiking Sargent Mountain, Acadia

I’d planned to hike Giant Slide Trail & Grandgent to Sargent Mountain based on this list of best hikes in Acadia National Park.

Without hiking guidebook or map, Acadia trails can be confusing.

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There are many, many ways to get to the top of Sargent. (also spelled Sargeant)

My particular route was pretty.

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By luck, I happened upon a Ranger who recommended Sargent Mountain via Sargent Ridge.

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Soon after, I zigged instead of zagged.

And was off on another trail instead.

Acadia Mountain Trail, Maine

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I’d long wanted to hike Acadia National Park in Maine. It wasn’t quite as good as I’d hoped.

In advance, I looked at this post – Five Favorite Hikes in Acadia National Park.

The blogger systematically worked through the local hiking guidebook, A Walk in the Park by Tom St. Germain, arriving at these best hikes:

  • Jordan Cliffs & Bluffs to Penobscot Mountain
  • Giant Slide Trail & Grandgent to Sargent Mountain
  • The Precipice to Champlain Mountain
  • Acadia Mountain
  • Beech Mountain
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    Acadia Mountain is short and sweet.

    Well trod.

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    Well blazed.

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    With terrific vistas from the top.

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    photos

    hiking Acadia National Park – meh

    Don’t get me wrong. I liked Acadia National Park in Maine. But as a hiking destination, you can do better.

    Why?

  • The most famous hike, the Precipice Wall, is closed every year from March 15 – August 15th. Peregrine falcons are nesting.
  • Valley Cove Wall, Jordan Cliffs and Beech Cliffs are also closed March 15 – August 15th.
  • no legal backcountry camping
  • it’s often crowded, over 2 million visitors a year in a very small area. Only about 120 miles of official trails.
  • only two campgrounds in the National Park: Blackwoods and Seawall
  • On the bright side, there’s no need to hike to and from your vehicle. Using the free Park bus shuttle opens up all sorts of interesting options.

    And the trails are good. The views excellent.

    Acadia map

    I spent only 2 days in Acadia. Then set off for Mt Washington, New Hampshire.

    … But if I went back to Acadia, I’d plan to mountain bike the Carriage Roads rather than hike.

    Dual Survival – Reality TV show

    Dual Survival is an American reality cable television series aired on the Discovery Channel. The show features a pair of survival experts in challenging environments …

    The current survivalists are Joe Teti and Matt Graham.

    Click PLAY or watch their first meeting on YouTube.

    official website

    Related TV shows:

    Survivorman, a similar series hosted by Les Stroud

    Surviving Urban Disasters, another series hosted by Stroud.

    Beyond Survival, another series hosted by Stroud that looks at the survival techniques of the last indigenous tribes.

    Man vs. Wild, a similarly themed Discovery Channel series hosted by Bear Grylls.

    Man, Woman, Wild, an American survival-themed series showing Mykel Hawke and his wife Ruth England surviving in the wild.

    I like Stroud more than Grylls.

    And – for some reason – I like Dual Survival. 🙂

    Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

    Guest post by Benjamin Biancini:

    A fusion of hiking and canoeing. The BWCA Wilderness is unique to all other US national parks.

    There is nothing that comes close to the uniqueness of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, located in Northern Minnesota.

    In the USA mountains are plentiful, oceans and hiking trails are all over the place, then what makes this place so special? In the BWCA there is just as much lake coverage as there is solid ground, this makes trekking it a biathlon of hiking, canoeing, and repeating it again and again.

    There are no motorized vehicles allowed in the 1,000,000+ acre wilderness. This means you must park at the edge and paddle onto the first lake with your hiking and trail gear in hand. Once the first body of water is crossed you are expected to jump in the water at the landing (yes, you must get your feet wet) pull the canoe on shore, throw a pack on your shoulders and carry a canoe over your head while hiking long distances to the next lake.

    So why is the BWCA so unique? It’s a balance act of paddling, followed by hiking through the forest with 50+ lbs of weight on your shoulders. Watch out for boulders because there’s no easier time to sprain an ankle. The vast differences in area to cover between lakes also make each portage exciting, they can be anywhere from 100 yards across to 10 miles, lakes apply to the same rules. You can canoe across a pond then plan on hiking miles and miles through the woods until you get to the next one.

    Here’s a tip that I learned from experience. When it’s windy make sure you stay near the shore, not out in the middle of the lake. You’d think this would be common sense, but it isn’t. Several years ago we tipped our canoes over in the middle of a 7 mile lake and lost some of our gear. We learned from that mistake and certainly won’t repeat it.

    So why does anyone engage in such a hiking-canoeing expedition?

    The BWCA is home to some of the most deserted lakes in North America. With freshwater fish species booming and ready to be caught and grilled over the fire, there really is nothing like it. Hunting permits are granted during season however no firearms are allowed, only archery. All food must be backpacked in on each trip and of course all trash items have to be taken back out.

    The bonus of the BWCA is that you can endlessly paddle and hike into the wilderness. If you want peace and quiet plan on moving in at least eight lakes and eight portages because it will separate you from the Boy Scouts that only scratch the surface. There are survivalists that go into the wilderness during the spring, and don’t come out until fall time. The BWCA is an endless maze of wilderness.

    My favorite part of trekking the BWCA is this: after a long day of juggling rocky portages and windy lakes, anything over the campfire tastes good.

    Ben Biancini of The Reliable Series – helping outdoor enthusiasts find locally made gear

    Bwca_map