Carrot Quinn was raised in Alaska on welfare by a schizophrenic single mother. A rough life. In fact, she became a hobo riding the rails.
This book reads as a blog. That’s because it started as blog posts from the trail.
reaching the Canadian border
If you are one of those who disliked Cheryl Strayed’s memoir Wild … because it had too little actual hiking … know that this extended trip report is all about the hiking. 🙂
It is the largest gypsum dune field in the world. …
The Monument is completely surrounded by military installations (White Sands Missile Range and Holloman Air Force Base) and has always had an uneasy relationship with the military …
Located on the northernmost boundaries of White Sands Missile Range, the Trinity Site can be found, where the first atom bomb was detonated. …
Backcountry Camping Trail map
There are non-stop warnings about dehydration.
Let’s go.
I wore these lightweight camp shoes. They turned out to be perfect for the soft sand.
Land totaling the size of Connecticut has been targeted in a new bill in the Republican House, uniting hunters and conservationists in opposition
Now that Republicans have quietly drawn a path to give away much of Americans’ public land, US representative Jason Chaffetz of Utah — @jasoninthehouse —has introduced what the Wilderness Society is calling “step two” in the GOP’s plan to offload federal property. …
The bill seems to run in direct opposition to Interior Secretary appointee Ryan Zinke’s (R-Montana) initiatives. In his confirmation hearing earlier this month, Zinke said: “I am absolutely against transfer and sale of public lands. I can’t be more clear.” …
Story goes that ranchers in 1881 got lost in the deserts. Had no water. With their horses failing they spotted the limestone walls of one more canyon. This would be their last chance.
My guidebook author called this “one of my favourite spots in all of New Mexico”.
It has plenty of water year round. A rarity in this part of the world.
I started late in the afternoon as it was only 2.7 miles to the recommended campsites.
The light gorgeous.
Here’s that water that saved the ranchers.
Obviously this canyon floods at times.
I checked out the campsites. Too exposed. It was very, very windy.
Instead I hunkered down in this more sheltered spot.
Having forgotten my bear bag rope, I instead tossed my food bag up into a tree attached to a loose branch. Ingenious improvisation I thought … at the time.
The wind blew it down during the night. Happily my food stayed undisturbed lying on the ground.
Next morning I had the option to try to loop to famed Sitting Bull Falls.
But to save time I opted to backtrack from here, visiting the falls via the front door.
As you probably would guess, the Sioux medicine man Sitting Bull never visited New Mexico.
You immediately drop down into a small drainage following cairns. There’s no signage.
Up the other side the trail is well defined.
I love the desert. And it was a beautiful day … though very windy.
You can go 3 miles out, 3 miles back. Or try to loop via other canyons. Instead I went out about a mile … enjoyed some solitude … then hustled back to my vehicle.
The “unfriendly vegetation” was too often snagging on my favourite hiking pants. It was difficult to avoid.
In the flat desert it’s easy to get lost. Even here close to Carlsbad Caverns and many roads. In 1999 hikers Raffi Kodikian and David Coughlin were lost in Rattlesnake Canyon. Coughlin died.
The Parks recommends a (strenuous) 6-8 hours. In a rush to finish before dark, I did it in 4.5 hours.
Trailhead is the Pine Springs Visitor Center. I checked in with a Ranger on trail conditions. She neglected to tell me there was a LOT of snow up in the Bowl.
My guidebook recommended to climb up via the Tejas trail.
A very easy way gain all that altitude. Very well maintained.
Up top in the bowl it looked like the Canadian winter I’d fled.
I met only one other hiker. She too was surprised with the snow.
It’s a different ecosystem up here.
A beautiful coniferous forest of pine and Douglas fir … awaits those who are willing to hike up 2500 feet from the Chihuahuan desert below.
Close to the turnoff for Hunter’s Peak I saw a herd of mule deer. I’m not sure why they are so high this time of year.
From there I needed to either backtrack. Or finish the loop.
Signage in Guadalupe Mountains National Park is not nearly as good as in Big Bend. The free Parks trail map is not detailed enough to do many of the hikes it recommends. Get a better map.
Happily I did find the sign to Bear Canyon Trail. The descent was much different — and much steeper — than how I got up.
water pipe
I saw some strange wreckage. An airplane crash, I assume.
It was much quicker down than up.
In fact, for most people it’s better to climb on Bear Canyon, descend on Tejas. Easier on the knees. We’ve added The Bowl to our list of best hikes in North America.
The arrival of 2017 has opened a new chapter for the National Park Service and the National Park System, one that in the first days of the Trump administration and the Republican-controlled Congress is fraught with concern over both the stability of the agency and the health of the parks.
The administration wants to reduce the size of the federal workforce.
Nominees for key agencies such as the Environmental Protection Agency and U.S. Department of Energy could support initiatives detrimental to natural resources.
Republicans in Congress are pushing to limit, if not entirely do away with, use of the Antiquities Act by presidents to designate national monuments.
Budget increases for the Park Service, feeble during the past eight years, could be even more meager.
It’s too early to say how these will play out, but they all bear watching. …
I feel the best hike in Big Bend National Park for most people is one of the South Rim Loop options. You can do those as long day hikes, but I’d recommend one night in a tent on the Rim.
Pick up your camping permit ($12 / night 2017) at the Ranger station near the Chisos Mountain Lodge. There’s a good store for last minute provisions.
The trailhead is right there. I started up the Pinnacles Trail.
Everywhere is scenic up this high. Great vistas in every direction.
A hiker showed me a photo of a bear he’d seen earlier in the morning. Cougar and bear sightings are frequent. They are confined to a small geographic area.
Cougars hunt the Carmen Mountain Whitetail. For the deer it’s either cougars in the National Park or hunters outside the Park.
Are these the Pinnacles?
Weather was good so I opted for the Emory Peak side trip. It’s the highest mountain in the Park.
Emory is dangerous. A teenager fell 450 feet to his death in 1999. Many turn back at the final scramble to the summit.
For me it was FUN getting up.
atop Emory Peak
I left a Summit Stone. Enjoyed the vistas … though it was very windy.
Down climbing is often more difficult. It is here.
Foolishly I’d not really paid any attention to my line on the way up. Several times I had to backtrack on the descent to find the safest route.
I picked up my pack on getting back to the Pinnacles Trail. Then carried on up the Boot Canyon Trail.
I’ve never seen so many Bear Boxes before. As a result, Big Bend has very few problem bears.
It was late in the day. I needed to hurry to get to the South Rim if I wanted to set up my tent in daylight.
There are standing pools of water here. You don’t want to drink from them.
I started with 3.5 litres of liquids.
Big Bend does an excellent job maintaining trails. #respect
At last light I reached the most scenic part of the trip.
Here’s the vista from the S.E. Rim.
In January it was very cold this high. And very windy. I had to cocoon in my sleeping bag to stay warm enough.
I woke early next morning. The weather forecast was for rain. I hurried down over the Laguna Meadows Trail taking only about 2 hours to complete the loop.
Note: We were there Jan 2017. Accessibility may change depending on what happens with Trump’s border wall promise.
Santa Elena Canyon is the single most popular spot in Big Bend National Park. Everyone stops here, even those who don’t normally hike.
The nature trail crosses Terlingua Creek, climbs several flights of ramps and stairs and then descends into the canyon along the Rio Grande. At this point the canyon walls loom over 1500 feet above the river below. …
In my haste to get over to the Canyon, I took off my shoes and waded Terlingua Creek.
That turned out to be a mistake. Everyone else found a way to cross keeping their feet dry.
Nobody regrets taking this short hike.
And I did finally get a photo of a desert cottontail. Or is it a small jack rabbit?
The best way to see the canyon is by raft or canoe. Local outfitters offer trips from one to three days in length when conditions allow, and river runners of intermediate or better skill level often go on their own. …
I checked out the campsites. Too exposed. It was very, very windy.
Kurt Repanshek posted a comprehensive overview:
besthike.com 