What happens when an African American woman decides to solo-hike the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine during a summer of bitter political upheaval? Everything you can imagine, from scary moments of racism to new friendships to soaring epiphanies about the timeless value of America’s most storied trekking route.
Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles | day 1 | day 2
day 2 – 6:45 am I hoisted the pack.
Unsure of exactly how I was going to get back for my 4pm ferry departure , best get an early start.
In my dreams I’d hoped to get all the way to Palamutbuku … but there is one earlier exit if I am running out of time.
The first section is scrambling over headlands. A series of deserted coves.
Rocky beaches. Much of the stone is conglomerate.
My sunrise.
I was lost briefly several times. The official guidebook and map are not sufficient to keep you on the trail. GPS is pretty much essential on the Carian Trails. And I didn’t bring my GPS to Turkey. Doh!
So few hikers pass this point I left the next one a Summit Stone. There’s no way to miss it.
If you like this kind of solitude and scenery, plan a hiking trip to Turkey.
The beaches are not littered. But they are full of plastic and junk washed ashore.
Here’s the toughest headland. My guidebook authors nicknamed this scramble Death Valley.
Whew. Civilization.
I was slow getting here. But the only other walkers I saw on the trail were even slower.
This village was the end for me. I’d need to find the mini-bus back to town to be sure not to miss my ferry.
During lunch at a pleasant restaurant I learned that the mini-bus does not run on Sundays. I’d need to hitchhike. A crazy dentist in a beat-up van picked me up.
I was tired on the ferry home. The two days had taken more out of me than they should.
Bodrum castle is most impressive from the sea.
Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles | day 1 | day 2
Only 2 days on the Carian Trails. But it was enough.
I decided to return April / May 2019 for 2-3 weeks most likely on the even more remote Bozburun Peninsula section. (141km)
I’ll have two GPS devices and several downloaded routes. I’ll carry the right gear. And I’ll bring some of my food from home. Turns out they don’t sell dehydrated mashed potatoes in Turkey.
I wandered Datça town for an hour enjoying the peace and quiet after busy Bodrum.
Eventually I found the official trailhead in Eski Datça. This is the start of the 240km Datça Peninsula section.
People visit to see traditional old stone houses on cobbled streets.
Follow the red & white paint.
There are some signs on the Carian Trails, but not many.
I wore long pants due to thorny, stinging vegetation on the overgrown trails. In fact I should have had even thicker pants.
Traditionally this region is famous for fish, almonds and honey.
Most of the day was on logging roads. Good footing.
Alarmingly, the only water source was swarming with wasps. I couldn’t get close.
First glimpse of the ocean.
I was very happy to see my destination — Pig’s Hollow Camp (Dumuzcukuru). Wild boars visit occasionally.
It’s something of a commune. When I was there 3 Turks were in residence. One had been coming for 6 years.
They take care of the garden. Keep the place clean. Maintain the solar power rig and water purification system.
Anyone can stay and probably eat dinner with the guys. By donation.
My pasta dinner, home grown salad and wine were excellent. I was HAPPY to donate.
The guys told me very few Carian Trail hikers pass by. It truly has not caught on yet in Turkey though the nearby Lycian Way is booming. The Carian Trail was only launched in 2013.
I saw one big black snake. They guys said they see about one snake a day at the Camp.
My last night in the tent in Turkey. A nice spot. I had the beach to myself.
I read my kindle as dusk fell.
Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles | day 1 | day 2
On arrival in Göreme someone will hand you a FREE hiking map.
Most wander around with this thing … frequently getting lost. We could find no decent map nor guidebook in 2017.
For 6 days I hiked and cycled many of these trails, often lost, before finally deciding on what I felt was the best hike.
Ask the people at your accommodation in Göreme how to get to the Rose Valley Panoramic viewpoint. They’ll likely recommend a taxi and tell you the price. It’s about a 15 minute drive uphill from town.
There is a small entry fee for Panoramic viewpoint. The taxi may drop you outside the gates.
Most feel Rose Valley trail. 5km to Caveusin is the best hike of all. And I’d agree.
Note that most of the trail signage is in Turkish.
There are many twisting and turning trail options. All are good but the very bottom of the valley might be muddy.
The city was captured by Persians after they conquered Asia Minor, and was later captured by Alexander the Great. …
In fact they handed Alexander a golden crown with the keys to the city.
Many others conquered Phaselis. Hadrian was one other prominent lord visitor.
Citizens did not care much who was overlord. They kept making money from their ideal trading route location.
The tourist site was just opening when I reached the front gates. Ticket agents kindly pointed me on to the Lycian Way. They are used to hikers arriving from the wrong direction at odd times.
Today I would have to leave the coast and climb inland. Big elevation gains.
Not so keen on the idea, I toyed with the idea of taking the cable car on high. And hiking back down to the Lycian.
But it turned out to be a 9km side trip on pavement to get to the cable car. I decided against that plan.
Many decide to quit the Lycian right about here. When the trail reaches the main highway.
I continued on a parallel trail, passing one tent of hikers. And one nude sunbather.