Most hiking the Everest region in Nepal fly into and/or out of Lukla, a small village at 2,860 metres (9,383 ft).
You can walk in and/or out, but that requires a lot more time.
Lukla’s very short runway
In order to ease congestion at Tribhuvan International Airport (in Kathmandu) and facilitate ongoing runway repair works … Lukla flights were rerouted to fly from Manthali.
An airport that had barely seen a dozen flights in the last decade began to handle 85 flights daily, and it was ill-equipped to deal with the hundreds of tourists arriving daily. The airport lacks proper parking, a waiting room, toilets and even a restaurant.
More than 800 tourists arrive and depart daily during peak season. About 85 flights a day.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
My best ride EVER.
Jeeps and buses now shuttle up and down the valley all the way to Muktinath, causing some trekkers to dismiss this section of the Annapurna Circuit as ‘over’.
It’s not over. Most who do it still enjoy the hike down.
Still … cycling is better.
Cycling Annapurna is getting increasingly popular. But it is dangerous.
One guide I cycled alongside had 3 clients: all 3 fell over two days, one evacuated back to the U.K. with a broken collar bone.
Here’s the besteasy & inexpensive option, in my opinion.
I did the Muktinath to Tatopani ride in 2014. Enjoyed it so much that I repeated exactly the same trip in 2019.
First you have to make your way to Muktinath (3800m) and be acclimatized to that altitude.
Many offer to rent you a bike. I went again with Mustang, as I like their professionalism. For this trip and 6 years ago the cost was $60 — and you could do the trip in 1, 2, 3, or 4 days for that price. Most do 2 days. They shuttle your luggage to Tatopani.
Muktinath to Marpha (2650m descent)
Marpha to Tatopani (1130m descent)
There are several ways down to Kagbeni, all interesting. This time I took the high route via Jhong (Dzong; 3580m) on the other side of the valley from the motor vehicle traffic. Loved it.
All day long you are staring at impressive Dhaulagiri (8167m).
Day 1 is dry, arid Tibetan landscape.
You definitely need protection from wind and dust.
You reach fantastic Kagbeni without passing any traffic. But road building is ongoing in the so-called Annapurna Conservation Area.
Riding through Jomsom is ugly and un-fun. But there’s no alternative to the busy main road.
Almost everyone stops in lovely Marpha. I followed the guide and her clients to this Guest House. In fact, I got the room of her injured rider.
Next morning I toured Marpha, the apple capital of Nepal.
… a pretty stone lined village which has survived the transition to the current time, by catering to trekkers and tourists. …
Day 2 you can often choose between the main road (bad), the river (hike-a-bike) or the new Annapurna trekking trail (single track with plenty of ups-and-downs).
I enjoyed it much better than 6 years ago.
The final ride down to Tatopani (hot water) is very, very rough. I’ll post video of that section later.
😕
BUT … it is great to hit the hot springs after 2 long, dusty days.
There’s no easy way out of Tatopani. My first time here I continued trekking to Annapurna Base Camp, a serious commitment. This time I got on the local bus … $5.50 for a 7 hour, very bumpy ride back to Pokhara.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
Waking up in Kagbeni, the morning sky was perfect.
Niligiri North (7061m) from the rooftop
I thought I might catch a bus or shared jeep up to Muktinath so started walking the (shockingly paved) main drag.
I ended up on foot for 3-4 hours, but still enjoyed the road walk.
The highlight was weird Serthang Selfie Park. Yep, everyone stops here to take selfies.
Happily, this viewpoint is protected from evil spirits including ZOMBIES.
I stopped too as it was my first look at massive Dhaulagiri (8167m).
Walking asphalt is super easy. And the views kept getting better.
In arid Tibetan lands these solar powered water boilers are popular.
On arrival in Ranipauwa (3710m) I went straight to Mustang Cycle to organize my bike for the next day. They recommended the newest lodge. Probably the best room I’ve had, so far.
Muktinath (3800m) is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in the Nepali Himalaya for both Hindus and Buddhists. There are far more pilgrims than trekkers at any given time.
In the afternoon I walked up to the main temple complex above town.
Muktinath (3800m) looking back to the village.
Many pilgrims choose to ride horseback. Indeed, this seems the biggest industry in town.
It’s easy to get confused as to what’s a Buddhist temple and what’s a Shiva temple.
Vishnu is worshipped here as Muktinath, the Lord of Salvation, while Buddhists associate the deity with Chenresig, the Tibetan bodhisattva of compassion (yes, it’s complicated).
From there I continued over 2 suspension bridges to the village of Jhong (Dzong; 3580m) on the other side of the ‘river’.
Six years ago one huge statue of Shiva was under construction. I sat on the roof at dusk, I recall. It’s finished now.
Great views from up there.
Muktinath in November is also filled with relieved trekkers having successfully crossed Thorung La (5416m) on the Annapurna Circuit, the highest most will ever climb.
That’s it between the peaks. It snowed up there during yesterday’s crossing.
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles – day 1 | 2 | 3/4
One of my favourite places in Nepal. Medieval Tibetan-style Kagbeni village is weird and wonderful.
… closely packed mud houses, dark tunnels and alleys, imposing chortens and a large, ochre-coloured gompa perched above the town. …
I flew from Pokhara 6:15am. Earlier the better for Himalayan flights. They get cancelled when wind comes up.
Arriving Jomsom (2760m)
I had breakfast and hung around until 10am to see if I could buy an NTC sim card for my phone. It’s the best network for the high Annapurna.
No luck. Only Nepalis can buy those in Jomsom, I was told.
I left immediately as Jomsom is a place you only visit because of the airport.
10am I started the easy walk up to Kagbeni (2840m). You can take the dusty road. Or walk aside barren Kali Gandaki, the river separating Annapurna from Dhaulagiri (8167m).
Another reason to come here in November rather than April is being able to stay off the road more.
It was good to be getting back to Tibet. Kagbeni is far more Tibetan than Nepali.
And Kagbeni looks much the same as it did when I first visited in the 1990s. Aside from Yac donalds.
On arrival I immediately headed for another new business – Cafe Applebees. It’s an upscale, modern coffee shop … but with excellent views to the forbidden kingdom of upper Mustang.
I’m still planning on taking a guided trip to Mustang. One day.
One place in Upper Mustang you ARE allowed to visit without a restricted-area is Tiri village. To get there you cross a bridge over the Kali Gandaki and hike about 45min on the west bank of the valley.
I do love the light in Tibet.
Here’s the view looking back to Kagbeni.
On my return I walked the river.
The other highlight of Kagbeni is Kagchode Thubten Sampheling Gompa, a Buddhist Monastery dating back to 1429.
It was guarded by Ram.
Arriving on the 5th day of a 5-day festival, many monks were in attendance. Throat singing, huge horns, cymbals and percussion. I doubt much has changed here since 1429.
Theend of the Khopra Ridge trek (according to Lonely Planet) is Tadapani.
Unexpected rain resulted in a power failure for most of the night.
For trekkers that means Kindle light dinner.
Did you see what I did there? 😀
As usual on this trip, next morning skies were clear.
Annapurna South
This has been the best vista so far of my favourite peak – Machapuchare.
“Fishtail”
After evening rain, the village was washed clean.
Lodges in Nepal are very similar. There’s not much difference between yours and HOTEL MAGNIFICENT.
From Tadapani it’s easy to get back to Pokhara in a day. But I decided, instead, to spend one more mountain night in Ghandruk, a Gurung village, famed starting point for many treks.
Ghandruk was only a couple of hours downhill stroll. A very easy day for me.
Lonely Planet recommended Hotel Trekkers Inn in Ghandruk which had won many hospitality awards over the years. It’s good, but not much different than any other IMHO.
As prices are fixed at all lodges in each village, they try to match each other in features, as well.
Hotel Trekkers Inn did have good food including some menu items I’d not seen anywhere else. I tried the Moussaka … tasty, but unrelated in any way to Moussaka.
And also the local smoked, dried, spiced meat called sukuti,
In the restaurant I met a young American who will be volunteer teaching at the largest school in the area. She’ll be living at Hotel Trekkers Inn for the next 2 months.
We both met a Brit who’s an old Nepal hand. This trip he’s come to photograph the Kulung’ honey hunters‘, men who climb bamboo rope ladders to harvest the world’s largest bees. An interesting man.
Pro tip – bring a tiny luggage lock for your room. What they provide are bulky and awkward.
The Khopra Ridge Trek I just finished is excellent.
In fact, Nepal needs more like it. And there is plenty of opportunity to develop more trails in higher, less developed spurs of the Annapurna massif.
Widely circulated in local lodges is this 2014 article by Donatella Lorch who lives in Kathmandu:
… The tea-houses and lodges are packed. Hikers have to share the stone steps with Nepal tourism’s unsung heroes: the unending series of mule convoys, loaded down with everything from water and food to cooking propane, kerosene, mattresses, stones and bags of cement to feed the mountain region’s lodge construction boom. …
ACAP faces socio-economic, ecological and political challenges. New roads have jeeps and trucks competing with trekkers and brings with it increased risk of landslides. There is little variety as the vast majority of trekkers stick to a small number of routes that are at times crowded walking highways …
Many trekkers along the route are willing to pay more for a more Nepali experience, and were in search of less crowded trails. …
Nov 4, 2019 – Khopra Ridge tenting 3640m to Tadapani
It was a cold night in the tent. I had to mummify myself in my ultralight sleeping bag and wear all my layers.
I only slept a couple of hours, the rest of the time listening to an excellent audio book.
At first light I packed up the frozen Hubba quickly (no coffee!) and got moving to warm-up.
n about 90 minutes I made it to Bayeli Guest House for breakfast. The sun was out and it looked a beautiful morning. I was happy to get there.
The Annapurna massif includes one peak over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), thirteen peaks over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft), and sixteen more over 6,000 metres (20,000 ft). It’s 55 kilometres (34 mi) long. A monster.
I was a tiny ant climbing up and down ridges at around 3000m.
It clouded up early today. Unusual. November normally brings day-after-day of clear skies. Nepalis told me this was atypical weather. Yet this turned out to be one of my favourite days. Different. The autumn colours brightest.
Walking alone through these high grasslands was wonderful.
I’ll be recommending theKhopra Ridge trek to those who want to get away from roads and development. Most is wilderness, well above farms.
Loads are still brought up by horse or porter.
I heard they sometimes carry up to 90kg !
As clouds descended and I descended some vistas reminded me of the Pacific N.W.
There is still much accessible wilderness within the Annapurna Conservation Area.
Without a guide, I accidentally took a different trail than most. My lower track was empty. Quiet. Tranquil.
Stopping for milk coffee at Isharu, I really enjoyed chatting with the lodge owner. He’d seen Himalayan Black Bear up here.
Everyone expects the Khopra Ridge trek to continue to grow in popularity. It’s part of a trend launched by one man — Mahabir Pun — who was educated at University of Nebraska.
Mahabir is helping mountain communities to promote new trails close to Annapurna & Dhaulagiri. To build eco-friendly lodges. Some distance from traditional villages. The idea is that Income from lodges goes to support schools and local health clinics.
Trails like Khopra Ridge will replace some existing hikes that have been degraded by road building.
Another nice touch in this section are trash bags at regular intervals on the trail. (Those are for locals, not tourists. Hikers don’t litter here.)
I also liked this day in that it was mostly downhill. 😋
I checked into a good room in Tadapani (2710m). My batteries needed recharged. And I needed a bed. It was only 2pm.
When I awoke from siesta the power had gone out. It was pouring rain.
It’s not supposed to rain here in November. Monsoon arrived late this year. Perhaps everything was pushed later.
As Warren often points out, weather should not be a problem for a hiker properly equipped.
Many were not prepared.
I wandered Tadapani in the rain. Yes, I was carrying good wet weather clothing.
Paint cans with different plants.
Tadapani is not a particularly nice village. Yet it’s a super popular stop — a crossroads for many different hikes. In fact, it’s the official end point for the Khopra Ridge trek. From here I have options.
BEST would be starting up to the Annapurna Sanctuary, an amphitheatre of huge Himalayan peaks.
I’ve done that trip before so will head down — instead — to Ghandruk.
I’d stayed at one of two identical lodges at Dhan Kharka (aka Chistibang 3020m).
Mine was profiting local schools, I believe. The other private.
There was not much farming this high. But many sheep.
From there up, up, up several hours. About 640m in ascent.
Today I saw my first yaks. They don’t like grazing below treeline.
I reached Khopra Community Lodge (also profiting schools) about Noon, perched ‘magnificently on a spur with the block-face of Dhaulagiri directly ahead’.
I’d missed the best vistas as clouds had formed during the morning. But I could see a bit of the top of Annapurna South.
Here’s that vista on a clear day.
Game on. I ordered a huge lunch, planning to start up the most challenging part of the Khopra Ridge trek — a possible climb to Khayer Lake (4600m). About 8 hours return for me.
I was excited — but a little worried — as I probably wasn’t acclimatized enough.
My plan, however, was to tent part way up. And continue with a day pack next morning.
During lunch a couple returned. They’d not made it to Khayer saying it was colder and more difficult than expected. Also, having no views was discouraging.
They talked me down. After lunch I climbed for about 20 minutes. Quit right here.
Plan B was to backtrack to a seldom used high traverse to Bayeli, the next possible stop on the Khopra trek. I’d probably tent en route.
This trail is adventurous. Though mostly above tree line, a bit of route finding is required. It would be slippery / dangerous in snow.
Though the trail is faint, it is marked by white & blue paint.
One highlight was spotting what I think is a Yellow-throated Marten. An animal I’d never seen before in the Himalaya. It leaves scat on the trails. I got some video.
Another highlight is bamboo. I love bamboo.
About 4pm I picked a spot to tent in a seasonal herding encampment (3460m), close to a waterfall.
One downside of trekking Nepal in November is short days. It was dark by 5:30pm. That makes for a long night in the tent.
I set an early alarm. BUT everyone in my lodge had already headed up to Poon Hill before I awoke.
Not having people to follow, I used trusty Maps.me offline to find the trail.
It takes about an hour from Ghorepani (2870m) to climb to the famous Poon Hill viewpoint (3210m).
Though I’d heard plenty of complaints about the crowds, I really enjoyed dawn looking over at Dhalagiri and Annapurna.
An ideal time to use my PeakFinder app: Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Tukuche (6920m), Nilgiri (6940m), Annapurna South, Annapurna I (8091m), Hiunchuli (6441m) and Tarke Kang (formerly known as Glacier Dome; 7193m). And Fishtail, of course.
The Pokhara – Jomson planes zipped past frequently.
One of the last to arrive, I was also one of the last to leave.
My $4 room in Ghorepani had a million dollar view.
After climbing all the way UP to Ghorepani yesterday, I now dropped 900m to the Ghar Khola river. It was fast and enjoyable to descend instead of climbing. The non-motorized trail stays far away from new road building.
And Interesting seeing where the farms were at with winter coming.
Many are trying to encourage farmers to switch to petrotoxin fuels. But everywhere I looked, families and lodges were using free firewood, instead.
Up to Ghorepani the buildings all had blue corrugated iron roofs. Here they have more stone houses, many retaining traditional rock-slab shingles.
After crossing the Ghar Khola it was UP again to Swanta (2270m).
Lonely Planet:
The increasing popularity of Khopra Ridge is evident here with the number of new lodges recently built or under construction.
Swanta is the prettiest village so far. Super clean.
But I carried on up the mountain on a narrow path through bamboo forrest.
I was hungry by the time I reached Evergreen Rest Cottage (2540m) for lunch.
Egg noodle soup is my regular lunch feed.
The restaurant is in an isolated, lovely spot close to waterfall, hydroelectric and lumber cutting yard.
I reached Dhan Kharka (3020m) by about 3:30pm. Happy to stop, I lay down for siesta.
Though Ghoripani had no mobile phone reception for my network, Dhan Kharka did — IF I walked out to a rocky point away from the lodge. I was able to post some things online celebrating my 62nd birthday — November 2nd.
Like most hikers, I started my Khopra Ridge adventure from Pokhara.
Coffee and Eggs Benedict for breakfast. Last city meal.
Khopra Ridge is a fairly new and increasingly popular alternative on the Annapurna Massif. Less crowded than the longer established trails.
Raju, owner of Sweet Dreams Guest House ordered me a cab for 1pm. The jumping off point for Khopra Ridge (also Ghorepani Poonhill) is the tiny turnoff called Naya Pul.
A car cost $25 and took 2 hours. Bus might have been 4-5 hours / $5. It’s a very rough road under constant construction.
From Lakeside (593m) the road switchbacks immediately up to Sarangkot (1592m). This is where paragliding starts.
On reaching Naya Pul I decided to walk up as far as I could towards Tikhedhungga (1638m). This leg stretcher would be good warm-up for days of climbing to come. And acclimatization. I started late in the day so I’d only have 2-3 hours of walking.
It’s a dusty, busy road to start. Several vehicles stopped to offer me a ride.
Still, I was happy to be back in the Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal’s largest (supposedly) protected area. Unfortunately, I don’t see much protection. Instead there are more roads, more development.
About a half hour from Naya Pul you reach 2 checkpoints: TIMS and ACAP.
As an independent trekker I got my permits in person in Pokhara:
besthike.com 