hiking Angel Falls with Ian Wright

Angel Falls is one of our best hikes in South America. And very high on my personal “to do” list.

I loved the Lonely Planet Globe Trekker: Venezuela TV show. It concludes with a terrific section on host Ian Wright’s travels to the base of the Falls.

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larger version

related post: the top of Angel Falls, Venezuela

the top of Angel Falls, Venezuela

I’d love to get to the top of the world’s highest waterfall.

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original – flickr – Maurício Marques

Two teams at least have climbed the Rainbow Jambaia route up behind the Falls.

Far easier would be to hike up, rapel down.

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more photos of this adventure – flickr – Cathy Beloeil

Cathy did climb nearby Roraima (photos), as well, on that same trip.

Need additional incentive to book a flight to South America? See more wonderful Angel Fall photos on Dark Roasted Blend.

related: Roraima Lost World Trek information page

paradise – the Kalalau Trail in Hawaii

map-kalalau.jpgMost do only the 4mi return from the trailhead at stunning Ke’e Beach through to Hanakapiai Beach (one drowning / year). This is the glorious, but dangerous, Na Pali coast.

Serious hikers definitely want to overnight on the Kalalau Trail, the best hike in Hawaii. The highlight of my 3wks on Kauai.

I was there 3 days, 2 nights.

You need a camping permit ($10 / night). I picked mine up in person at the DOFAW office in Lihue. They sell maps, as well, but a guidebook map is enough. Far better would be to apply for your permit months in advance as the quota is often sold out.

I hiked all 11mi (17.7km) the first day. That’s the best itinerary — but you should get an early start. There’s a public bus on Kauai, but it does not go all the way to the trailhead. The closest campground is Haena Beach Park about a mile from the start.

Kalalau is surprisingly more difficult than it looks.

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I fell once each day. Total, I saw 3 seriously injured hikers. This was in PERFECT weather. It would be very sketchy in wet weather.

The trail is sometimes closed due to rain. But most often storms like this blow in and right over the trail, settling on the high peaks above.

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Even in perfect weather, there are a many places where an unexpected stumble could hurtle you to your death.

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Some say the cliff trails are eroded to the point where the Kalalau should be closed. I wouldn’t go that far. And I did see maintenance guys working on it while I was there.

It’s dangerous. But not as dangerous as the West Coast Trail in Canada, in comparison.

I thought the views might be wonderful, but similar. All massive green cliffs.

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Not at all. It is terrifically varied. Over the 11mi you go from lush rainforest to an almost arid environment.

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I set up camp at the very end of the Kalalau. Paradise?

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The camping area is over a mile long, the beach huge. It was not particularly crowded when I was there.

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Here I had something of an odd experience. Logically I knew, “It doesn’t get any better than this.” Yet I was emotionally unmoved by paradise. (Perhaps being a blogger is making me too analytical on these trips.)

Next day I moved on to investigate side trips including Hanakoa Falls.

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Gorgeous.

Just as good, I thought, but further to reach, is Hanakapiai Falls.

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There’s too much to highlight in one post. If you’ve been waffling about heading to Hawaii for hiking, I say go for it. Kauai, of course.

I did get back safe-and-sound to my rent-a-car at Haena Beach Park campground.

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I used Kathy Morey’s guidebook, the best overall, Kaua’i Trails.

Walks, Strolls & Treks on the Garden Island)

Great on flora and fauna. Less than perfect when it comes to written descriptions of trails.

Here’s what Kathy’s got to say about this hike:

“The Na Pali Coast’s Kalalau Trail is sometimes touted as one of the world’s most beautiful hikes, but I disagree. Those wishing to see the Na Pali Coast as it’s typically shown in calendars, travelogues, and coffee table books may find that helicopter of boat trips are better at providing the experience and scenery they expect. Being on the Na Pali Coast’s Kalalau Trail is a very different experience, often far from idyllic. It’s the difference between looking at a beauful animal from a distance and being a flea on that animal.

… Camping areas are filthy, overused, crowded, and bug-and-toad infested. …

… once notorious for its resident population of hippies and their ultra-casual, clothing-optional lifestyle. Those days are over. Nudity has always been illegal at all Hawaiian beaches. Expect to find a resident caretaker in the Kalalau area who will keep an eye on visitors and educate them …

… Call me an iconoclast, but I regard backpacking the Kalalau Trail … As a poor use of the limited time most visitors probably have on Kauai. … you’re better off day hiking it.” …

I beg to differ. Everyone I’ve spoken with loved this hike. Many told me it was the greatest hike of their lives.

Certainly in March I saw no mosquitoes, no toads, no bugs. The campsites are littered as is much of Kaua’i, but it in no way ruined the experience for me.

One “hippy” approached me for leftover food. Another I saw fleeing inland. (The police were around organizing the evacuation of a hiker with a sprained ankle.) Since Kathy wrote the book, authorities have cracked down on illegal camping.

I did see both topless and nude women at the beach and in the waterfall — that in no way ruined the experience for me, either.

Had a wild boar checking out my campsite at dusk. I took care of that brute, though.

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Chased after him with my camera. (This pig some hunter had left to dry beside the highway.)

Check the annotated photos from my Kalalau hike on flickr.

If you’re wondering if this trail is safe enough for you, read more on these two posts:

  • Kalalau Trail Conditions – A Kaua’i Blog
  • More Kalalau Questions – A Kaua’i Blog
  • hike Na Pali in Hawaii with kids

    Often included on lists of “best hikes in the world” — deservedly — is the Kalalau Trail on Kauai. It’s widely considered the best hike in Hawaii.

    Many non-hiking tourists get a taste of the Kalalau by doing the challenging first 2mi (3.2km) from the trailhead at Ke’e Beach through to gorgeous Hanakapiai Beach.

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    Ke’e Beach

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    Hanakapiai Beach

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    We took a group of kids. Everyone enjoyed the adventure. All had a great day.

    But I was somewhat shocked how unprepared many are on this day hike. This is a very dangerous adventure in many ways.

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    In fact, on the way out we met one woman with a lower body injury of some kind. The Fire Department was hiking in to evacuate her with this rig:

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    In other spots on the Kalalau Trail they evacuate by helicopter.

    Fantastic hike for everyone, including kids. But please people, be careful on the Na Pali coast.

    See the rest of our photos from that day hike on flickr.

    details on the side trip to Hanakapi’ai Falls – Trailspotting

    more information – Kauai Explorer

    Powerline Trail, Kauai, Hawaii

    Another GREAT Kauai hike with an unappealing name. (Like the Swamp Trail.)

    follows a 13 mile electric transmission line maintenance route and ends near the Keahua Forestry Arboretum in the Lihue-Koloa Forest Reserve. This is a dry-weather, all day hike. …

    Steep, eroded, slippery at saddle. …

    Hawaii Trails

    If you have only one vehicle, do as I did, starting at the south end (Arboretum). Hike to your turnaround time. Then backtrack. (Most of the hiking guidebooks recommend the out and back itinerary, in any case.)

    That’s my rent-a-car parked on the DRY side of the river. In Hawaii you don’t want to drive a rental on to a beach or hunting road. Or across any river.

    powerline1.jpg

    The start of the Powerline Trail is not all that inspiring:

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    But very soon you — like every hiker before you — will be scanning the interior mountains hoping for a clear glimpse of the highest peaks.

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    That’s perhaps the most consistently rainy spot on Earth. In 3wks it did not clear once for me. The summit of Mt. WaiÊ»aleÊ»ale gets 460in (11.7m or 12.87yds) of liquid each year.

    (Rare clear photo on Waialeale.org.)

    Even though you are hiking on a rough “road”, the pristine jungle scenery ensures that every hiker leaves happy. I loved it.

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    On the drive back to the coast, stop at gorgeous Opaekaa Falls:

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    There’s actually a scramble to the base of the Falls. I’d had enough already, and simply enjoyed the view from above.

    See all my photos from an afternoon trail run on the Powerline Trail.

    Kaapoko tunnel hike, Kauai, Hawaii

    A local recommended an excellent, unique — but extreme — hiking adventure:

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    Get used to the mud. Most of the time, it’s easier just to go right through the middle while looking for submerged rocks and logs. If you do have hiking boots, it’s best to avoid overtopping them.

    Maybe too extreme, or too dirty, for me.

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    What’s reassuring is that the 0.9 mile-long (1.5 km) tunnel is perfectly straight and you can see the light at the other end the whole way. It takes 20-30 minutes to reach that light. When you get there it is like a door onto another world.

    details: Kaapoko Tunnel Hike (part 1) – A Kauai Blog

    It’s called Secret Tunnel to the North Shore in the The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook

    There are actually a second. And a third tunnel. Rarely visited. Difficult to find.

    details: Kaapoko Tunnel Hike (part 2)

    Thanks to Andy Kass for posting these trip reports.

    I think I’ll go lie on the beach instead.

    hiking Waimea Canyon, Hawaii with kids

    The most popular way to see the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” is Canyon Trail, 3.6mi (5.8km) with a short side trip on Cliff Trail to the lookout.

    waimea.jpg

    The goal is Waipoo Falls where Kokee Stream drops into the canyon.

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    I thought the “moderate difficulty” trail might be a bit much for the kids, but there is so much to do and see, they were entertained throughout.

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    Our only problem was worrying about any of them falling hundreds of feet off the edge of the cliff.

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    In the end, they all made it back to the trailhead, almost under their own steam.

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    more photos of our Waimea Canyon Trail hike – flickr

    Guidebook: Hiking Kauai, the Garden Isle

    KauaÊ»i – Hawaiian hiking paradise

    I’ve finally done it.

    Made the trekker’s pilgrimage to the volcanic island of KauaÊ»i (also spelled Kauai). My first trip.

    There are more miles of hiking trails here than on the rest of Hawaiian islands combined. It’s the “Garden Isle”. The one used in the opening fly-in scene for Jurassic Park.

    The most useful website I’ve found is Hawaii Trails:

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    Hawaii Trails – Kauai map

    The second highest peak is Mount WaiÊ»aleÊ»ale near the center of the island, one of the wettest spots on Earth with an annual average rainfall of 460in (11.7m). The resulting floods have eroded deep canyons, including what Mark Twain dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” — Waimea Canyon, 10mi (16km) long and up to 3000ft (900m) deep.

    waimea-canyon.jpg
    NASA

    We’ll head first to Waimea. I’m using Robert Smith’s hiking guidebook:

    Hiking Kauai, the Garden Isle

    Hiking Kauai, the Garden Isle

    Man vs. Wild – Copper Canyon, Mexico

    I’m on the record as boycotting Man vs. Wild, fearing that the TV show will encourage people to do things far more dangerous than those filmed by Bear’s crew.

    But I found myself watching a full episode, lately:

    In Mexico, Bear must find his way out of Copper Canyon, and his only supplies are a water bottle, a flint and a knife. Bear demonstrates how to build a simple compass and climb sheer cliffs safely. For shelter, he uses ancient caves and makes fire with a traditional “fire saw.” Bear also demonstrates techniques for finding scorpions or grubs and fishing without a rod or line.

    Man vs Wild Episodes – Wikipedia

    It’s hard to stay angry at Bear, his boyish enthusiasm is inspiring.

    My real excuse for watching is that I’m planning a very similar adventure, dropping into Copper Canyon from the train tracks and finding my way to Batopilas village.

    (To make up for my sin of watching Man vs. Wild I watched a full episode of a real Survivorman, Les Stroud. Much more impressive in every way.)

    copper-canyon.jpg
    original – flickr

    more of Sam Meztli’s photos photos tagged Copper Canyon – flickr

    jump off the waterfall – are you crazy?

    Would you jump from here?

    waterfall.JPG

    … With myself and 4 others gathered at the top of the fall, our guide dutifully pointed out the best angle at which to jump so as not require the services of either a stretcher or neck brace. Then, whilst waving his arms wildly and delivering something akin to an war cry by an Apache with Tourette’s Syndrome, he promptly disappeared over the edge. I stood for a moment, stunned by what I thought I had just seen. It just didn’t add up. Y’know, for a moment I could have sworn that he just jumped off the edge – but surely he can’t have, that would have been incalculable stupidity.

    As our guide swam toward the shallows (which, I must say, took a reassuringly long time) he flipped over onto his back and shouted up to the 5 bewildered gringos AKA ‘Team Terrified’ yet to make the jump.

    “You must jump out far as you can…!” he hollered, looking exceedingly chuffed with himself and wiping the spray from his hair and face. Almost as an afterthought he followed up with “…And watch out for the rocks!” as if we weren’t already well aware of their unyielding, body-busting presence.

    To see if he survives, read this trip report from a trek in El Impossible National Park, El Salvador: Wetter and Wilder: Impossible Thrills in El Salvador – UberTramp

    If that fall looks too dangerous, consider this leap on the Great Ocean Walk in Australia instead:

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    Frank in Oz