Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 2

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

SUMMIT DAY

Tim’s great selfie (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Awoke at the lake before dawn.ย  Went straight to the hotsprings on my own.ย  Had the hot bath to myself.ย 

We packed up camp quickly.ย 

Said goodbye to the lake.ย 

There are only a few bridges on this adventure.  More often you scramble down โ€” and back up.   It must be miserable in the rain. 

Rarely are there stone steps.ย  This ainโ€™t Nepal.ย 

We had about 600m to gain back climbing up to the 2nd crater rim from the lake.ย 

It was tough.

When I say tough, in addition to being technical, we increasingly had to deal with slippery ash. ย 

Once on the ridge, we set-up our tents. Had lunch.ย  Then a short lie down until 2pm. ย 

One of these pests actually went inside Mason’s tent while he was there! Cheeky.

Tim’s photo (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Weโ€™d decided as a group to go for sunset today rather than sunrise the following morning.ย  This turned out to be our best decision.ย 

That means weโ€™d climb another 1100m trying to get to the top before the sunset.ย  A deadline.ย 

It looked doable to me. 

BUT it got increasingly slippery and dusty as we ascended.ย 

Once above the clouds, we were motivated by the amazing vista.ย 

Gorgeous views โ€” though it was dusty plodding in sections.ย 

Very, very slippery โ€”ย we all used systems to keep scrambling slippery scree.ย  I did bouts of 20 steps.ย 

Made it!ย  And well before sunset. ย 

Only 1 other group tried our itinerary.  Perhaps half their group finished, just about sunset. 

In fact, I left the top even before sunset as I wanted some visibility on the scree section at the top before it got dark.  

Descent turned out to be fairly easy.ย  Mostly screeing through the loose dust and rock (scree).

Views on the way down were even better than on the ascent. 

Eventually we had to turn on our headlamps.  I held mine in one hand, finding it easier to direct the beam. 

Exhausted, we had dinner in our tents.  And went to sleep early. 

Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 3

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Tim posted the BEST 20 photos from our trip in an Instagram story. Scroll through.


7am UP on our final day.  

I actually carried my own tent on this adventure. Air mattresses in the provided tents were not good. ๐Ÿ˜€

The crater rim vistas really are superb. 

The biggest takeaway from this trip for everyone is being impressed with the porters.  Rather than use the more efficient tump system, they balance these loads on one shoulder while doing big step-ups and step-downs.  

They all wear flipflops.  Until they break. 

We were headed down, back to civilization. 

Somewhat slippery โ€” but overall fairly easy. 

We had lunch in a shady forest, monkeys and cows standing by to gobble down what leftovers they could get. 

It was a shock to get to the trailhead.  Noisy motor cycles. 

Perhaps 120 people readying to start.  

Those who sign up for 2 days, 1 night begin and end here close to Sembalun village.  They miss the lake and hotsprings.

It took about an hour to drive back from Sembalun to our start at Senaru village.  We returned rented gear and recovered our luggage left in storage

TIPS

  • BEST HIKE is our itinerary (3 days, 2 nights in tent) with an afternoon ascent rather than the crowded, dusty line-up for dawn.  Day 1 is long and hard, however. 
  • WAIT for a good weather forecast, if you can  
  • Green Rinjani looked one of the most professional companies at camp, to me.  Modern tents. Tables and chairs.
  • Grippy and comfortable shoes are the most important piece of gear.  Wear a size larger than normal so your toes arenโ€™t crushed on the descent. 
  • Protection from sun and wind is important.  Sun screen.  I brought a sun hoodie.  
  • Porters provide as much water as you can drink.  
  • I fell about 8 times over the 3 days.  No injuries as I almost always landed on my backpack. 
  • I didnโ€™t bring trekking poles.  And that was a mistake.  Our guide gave me one pole for long down climbs.  
  • Itโ€™s badly littered.  
  • Sanitation standards are lowNo water for washing up.  Not even the expected containers of alcohol gel that Iโ€™ve had on similar trips around the developing world. 

I completely enjoyed Rinjani.  It could hardly have gone any better for our group with the afternoon ascent.  

BUT โž™ Bottom line โž™ I canโ€™t recommend this hike.  Itโ€™s simply too dangerous.  

During the July 2018 Lombok earthquake, multiple climbers and guides were killed by landslides triggered on Rinjaniโ€™s slopes. 

March 2007, seven people died of exposure after illegally scaling the volcano during a ban. 

Be sure to have evacuation insurance, just in case.

Youโ€™ve been warned. 

Trip Report

Indonesia – Bromo Volcano at Dawn

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Iโ€™ve long wanted to get to this famous vista.ย  It didnโ€™t disappoint.ย 

Mount Bromo 2,329 meters (7,641ย ft) is an activeย somma volcano andย Hindu pilgrimage site inย East Java,ย Indonesia.

The name Bromo comes from the Javanese pronunciation ofย Brahma, theย Hindu godย of creation.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Getting there is a wild ride. ย  Almost everyone signs up for a jeep tour.ย  Only these small Toyota Landcruiser Jeeps are allowed up the mountain.

I departed my hostel in Malang City at 12:45am.ย  It was a scary Mad Max ride over dirt tracks before reaching the viewpoint at 3:15am.ย 

They get you there so early in case of road problems.ย  And jeep breakdowns.ย  It happens.ย 

They also hope youโ€™ll rent warm jackets and blankets.ย  Or buy some souvenirs. ย 

Itโ€™s well worth being there at very first light through dawn, in any case.ย  The volcano vista keeps changing.ย  Every photo a possible postcard.ย 

Here are just a few of the dozens I shot.ย 

Itโ€™s crowded!ย  Everyone scrambling for the best position. ย 

The adventurous bushwhack down the hillside looking for more unique framing.ย 

Iโ€™ll never forget Bromo.ย 

From here the jeep takes you down to the smouldering caldera for a crowded, dusty climb up stairs.ย  I was disappointed with this and the sea of sand beneath.ย  There are many better volcanoes to climb in Indonesia.


DETAILS

Of a number of 1, 2, or 3 day options, I ended up doing the most popular โž™ Bromo Sunrise Tour. Very inexpensive at CAD $50 which includes entry fees.

Itinerary:

  • 00:30: Prepare for pick-up from Malang hostel by 4ร—4 Jeep
  • 01:00: Journey to Penanjakan (sunrise viewpoint by jeep).
  • 03:30: Arrive at the viewpoint and wait for sunrise
  • 05:00: Witness the magical sunrise from Penanjakan.
  • 06:30: Drive down to the Bromo crater area.
  • 07:00: Free time exploring the Bromo Crater.
  • 08:30: Visit the Sand Sea area and the Savanna.
  • 09:00: Begin the journey back to Malang.
  • 11:30: Approximate arrival back at the hostel.

BestHike โ€“ Tongariro Circuit, New Zealand

Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of our top 10 hikes in the world.

Click PLAY or watch a 1 minute introduction on YouTube.

Tongariro Circuit

Our favourite multi-day tramp in our favourite hiking region of the world โ€” glorious New Zealand.

AND our top volcano hike worldwide.

by Jeff Pang

AT A GLANCE

  • one ofย our top 10 hikes in the world
  • non-stop superb hiking
  • mostly volcanic & desert environs
  • 34+km (19+mi) depending on route
  • 3-days, 2-nights minimum
  • option to climb a volcano, or two
  • medium difficulty hiking, with challenging sections
  • wonderfulย varietyย of scenery
  • Dec – Mar best months
  • maximum elevation Red Crater 1886m (6188ft)
  • very crowded on the Tongariro Crossing section

Read more on our Tongariro Northern Circuit information page.

Timberline Trail – around Mt Hood

Clever Hiker updated details in 2024:

Timberline Trail Backpacking Guide

  • Distance:ย 38.3-mile loop
  • Time Needed:ย 3-4 days
  • Highest Elevation:ย 7,350 ft. Timberline High Pointย 
  • Lowest Elevation:ย 3,300 ft. Near Ramona Fallsย 
  • Elevation Gain (approx.):ย 9,000 ft.
  • Best Time to Hike:ย July-September
  • Permits:ย Yes (May 15th to October 15th)
  • Difficulty:ย Challenging

Permits

Permits are required for overnight trips on the Timberline Trail from May 15th to October 15th, but they are free and can be found at trailheads around Mt. Hood. Simply fill one out before you hit the trail. Some trailheads do require a Northwest Forest Pass for parking.


Jon posted a detailed trip report on their August 2019 circuit of Oregonโ€™s highest peak. It’s close to Portland.

This report is all you need to organize that adventure for yourself.ย 

Plenty of climbs and descents. Quite a few creeks crossings. Not what we’d call an easy week.

They started and ended at Timberline Lodge. And hiked clockwise.

The report includes excellent photos so you really get a feel for what to expect.

Mount Hood (photo credit: Dan Nevill, CC 2.0)
Ramona Falls (photo credit: Dan Nevill, CC 2.0)

Check it out:

TIMBERLINE TRAIL โ€“ MOUNT HOOD WILDERNESS, OR (40 MILEย LOOP)

ย 
Similar adventures in the Pacific N.W. include the Wonderland Trail around Mt Ranier and / or a partial circuit around nearby Mt Adams.

#6 best hiking region in the world is the …

Patagonian Andes

Patagonia is massive and bleak. Yet we love the Patagonian Andes, 2000km (1243mi) in length, but averaging less than 100km (62mi) in width. You could take years exploring just the eastward (drier) side of the mountains.

Towering granite peaks, untouched lakes, massive glaciers, huge volcano trekking peaks. This land is phenomenal.

Trekkers target five areas:

  • The Araucania
  • Lakes District
  • Central Patagonia
  • Southern Patagonia
  • Tierra del Fuego

Start in Mendoza, Argentina and visit the highest mountain outside Asia, Aconcagua. Next bus to the Switzerland of South America (Lake District). Some of the highest volcanoes of the world are here. Finally, work your way south by air and ferry to the granite spires at the south tip of the continent.

Trekking season here is Nov-Apr. (Feb-Mar often the best weather) That said, the wind and weather in Patagonia is notorious. Independent hikers need be prepared for anything and everything.

Conversational Spanish highly recommended for those travelling independently.

More information on our new Patagonia information page.

Our favourite hike in the Patagonian Andes is the Paine Circuit in Chile.


John Grey Pass, Paine Circuit – flickr – Patagonia set – Michael Bollino

See our Paine Circuit Information page.

Click PLAY or see how to trek Aconcagua Base Camp independently on YouTube.

BEST Hikes in the World

According to one AllTrails list.

It includes both challenging multi-day and short single-day adventures.

Our favourites from this list are in bold.

These lists are far from definitive. They are more conversation starters to get you thinking where you might want to go next.

For example, the Tonquin Trail is a 4.0-km out-and-back trail near Tofino on Vancouver Island. I’m on the island right now and can name easily a dozen better hikes close by. ๐Ÿ˜€

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Laugavegur Trail, Iceland

Solo Tenting Late Season

One of our BEST VIDEOS.

Laugevagur Trail is the BEST HIKE in Iceland.

I hiked it twice September 2023 โ€”ย but edited THIS video to show รžรณrsmรถrk (Thรณrsmรถrk) โž™ Landmannalaugar.

Trip report.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

BestHike – Skรณgafoss Waterfall Way, Iceland

One of our BEST VIDEOS.

Perhaps 25 waterfalls and spectacular canyons in series.

I can’t recall better anywhere else in the world.

Trail starts at massive Skรณgafoss and continues 8km (5 miles). The views just as good on the way back.

I waited about 5 days for a good weather window. Hiked the Waterfall Way twice, up-and-down, over 3 days.

I wanted the trail as empty of people as possible. And to catch the sun low in the sky.

Trip Report

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Amazing Stuรฐlagil Canyon, Iceland

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

When the construction of Kรกrahnjรบkar Hydro Dam was finished 2009, Stuรฐlagil (Studlagil) Canyon became fully visible.

The water level in the river Jรถkla, that runs through the canyon, dropped and amazing basalt columns have since become one of the most popular tourist attractions in eastern Iceland.

Click PLAY or get a glimpse on YouTube.

The landowners were still building tourist infrastructure in 2024.

I stayed at the simple campground on the northern side of the river.

A German couple โ€” world travellers โ€” in a camper van, offered me lamb dinner with locally picked mushrooms. And wine! It was my best meal in Iceland. ๐Ÿ˜€

Once the tourists were gone in the evening, I climbed down a long set of stairs to have the northern viewing platform all to myself.

Next morning, I cycled over to the southern side of the river. It’s the better experience. Go to both sides, if you can.

Stuรฐlagil (Studlagil) is a canyon in the Eastern Region of Iceland.

It is known for its unusual amount of large columnar basalt rock formations and the turquoise coloured river that runs through it.

The canyon also has an interesting story as it became an unexpected tourist sensation in 2016 after Einar Pรกll Svavarsson published an article in August of that year on hiticeland.com with spectacular photos.

A year later Einar also wrote an article about Stuรฐlagil in WOW air magazine in June 2017 and after that the canyon became a popular tourist destination.

It’s an easy detour off the Highway 1 Ring Road. About a 19km/11.8mi sidetrip along road 923. Mostly paved in 2024.

related – All you need to know before visiting Stuรฐlagil Canyon

official website – studlagil.is