best books on California desert hiking and climbing

I checked into the Needles California office of the Bureau of Land Management. They gave me some excellent advice on “best hikes” in the region.

Two books are recommended and sold there:

Hiking California’s Desert Parks, 2nd edition: A Guide to the Greatest Hiking Adventures in Anza-Borrego, Joshua Tree, Mojave, and Death Valley by Bill and Polly Cunningham

I’ll be using this one over the next couple of months.

Deserts Summits: A Climbing & Hiking Guide to California & Southern Nevada by Andy Zdon

Both are recommended.

Click on either book cover for more information and links to other available books on Amazon

best hikes in Arizona

lucrativetravels.com posted a surprisingly good list:

Wet Beaver Loop
Picacho Peek
Kendrick Mountain
Paria Canyon

We name Paria Canyon the best hike in the entire S.W. USA.

The other three I’m currently researching. … Especially since I’ve just arrived in Arizona. We drove between Tuscon and Phoenix yesterday past impressive Picacho Peak.

Wet Beaver Loop

The Wet Beaver Loop is not a trail that should be hiked by a novice. The trail is a twenty-two mile loop so you should plan on taking a couple of days to complete it. …

Picacho Peak

The Picacho Peak is a hike that that will provide you with the opportunity to admire the Sonora desert. Although the trail is only a seven mile round trip, you need to be aware that much of it is extremely steep and that there are many switchbacks. …

Kendrick Mountain

If Picacho Peak is more than you feel comfortable handling, you might want to consider the Kendrick Mountain hike. This particular hike is 9.2 miles round trip. When you reach the summit you will find a cabin and have an amazing view of Mount Humphreys, Red Mountain, and Sycamore Canyon. On a clear day you will even be able to see the Grand Canyon’s north Rim. …

read more – lucrativetravels.com

hiking Steinbeck Canyon, Baja

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Steinbeck Canyon is the name locals in Loreto use for the most popular hike in the area.

I started at the Puerto Escondido marina. With a bike.

Rick - Puerto Escondido, Baja - cycling and hiking to Steinbeck Canyon

You ride (or walk) from the marina out to main highway #1. There’s the arroyo (watercourse) in the distance just right of the exit road.

Puerto Escondido, Baja - cycling and hiking to Steinbeck Canyon

The turnoff to the trailhead is unmarked but easy to find. Simply cross directly over Highway #1 and follow the dirt road on the other side.

It’s impressive right from the get go.

It’s actually more of a bouldering scramble than a hike. You’ll be using your hands clambering up, over and under smooth river rocks.

Puerto Escondido, Baja - hiking to Steinbeck Canyon

What people like most is the explosion of insect, bird and plant life.

Puerto Escondido, Baja - hiking to Steinbeck Canyon

Some of the pools were so clean, when I was there, that I was tempted to swim.

Puerto Escondido, Baja - hiking to Steinbeck Canyon

Steinbeck Canyon is one of the best hikes in the Baja. Highly recommended.

See all my photos from a March 2010 scramble.

7 crazy, scary, dizzying hikes (VIDEOS)

Rosemary Kitchen on Gadling linked to 8 videos from 7 hikes.

Yikes!

I link to this one, the top of name, because a couple of days before I climbed up there, a Russian hiker was killed by lightning. On this exact spot! Now that’s scary.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Others on the list: Spain’s El Caminito del Rey (“The King’s Little Pathway”), Mount Hua in China, Tennessee’s Mount LeConte, Angel’s Landing in Utah, and Philippines’ Mount Pinatubo.

Click through to see them – Gadling – 7 of the craziest, most dangerous, most dizzying hikes in the world (VIDEOS)

(via The Adventure Blog)

best S.W. USA desert peak scrambles

From Branch Whitney of the excellent Hiking Las Vegas blog:

I am not a big fan of the typical desert peaks. Most have boring approaches, crappy rock, and long drives. I do not consider the peaks in Red Rock or Mt. Charleston as desert peaks. The rock there is much different. So I “cherry pick” the desert peaks I do climb. Here’s a list of my favorite:

Mopah and Umpah Points

Eagle Mountain

Moapa Peak

details – My Favorite Desert Peaks

All of the routes to these peaks and another 350 routes are available for members of HikingLasVegas.

Moapa

Black Butte Trail, California

I love the look of this volcanic scramble

Black Butte Trail

Length: 5.2 miles round-trip

Hiking time: 4 hours

High point: 6,325 feet

Total elevation gain: 1,850 feet

Difficulty: moderate

Season: mid-May through mid-November

Water: none; bring plenty …

Black Butte from the west slope of Mount Shasta. (Photo by John Soares)
Black Butte from the west slope of Mount Shasta. (Photo by John Soares)

The Black Butte Trail is Hike 45 from 100 Classic Hikes in Northern California, third edition. I discuss the same route in Hike 63 of 75 Hikes in California’s Mount Shasta and Lassen Volcanic National Park Regions, revised edition.

Click through to John’s site, Northern California Hiking Trails, for links to his guidebooks.

hiking Picos de Europa, Spain – day 5

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

Trip ReportPicos de Europa Circuit – by site editor Rick McCharles

By morning I had no water. Looking up, my prospects for H2O did not look good.

Picos-stone

Though my guidebook said I could find water in two places in the next few hours, I was not confident. This late in the season I might need to climb up high enough to melt snow.

I passed one trickle. Then – finally – saw a sign that I might find a spring.

flowers

Before I found the man-made spigot, I was approached by an exhausted looking Spanish mountain climber. He and his partner had gotten lost the previous day near the summit. And were forced to bivouac overnight. They had just gotten back to their tent.

He showed me the water source (about 1hr to fill a 1 litre bottle) and gave me detailed advice on how not to get lost on the next section.

Very quickly I was lost. His advice was all wrong.

Having climbed far too high, I arrived at another of the mountaineering base camps. Instead of retreating, however, I waited for a climber who was descending rapidly from the summit.

lost but elated
lost but elated

It was Constant, an adventurer from France. He was just as lost as I, … but had a vague idea of how to exit the base camp. And a wonderfully relaxed world view. His topo map did us no good at all. You need a topo and a GPS in these mountains.

Constant

I followed him directly to “civilization”.

Because of the water supply, I decided to camp (for once) close to the Vegarredonada refugio.

Refugio

Here’s the bizarre old refugio, no longer used.

old-refugio

Everyone takes an obligatory 7.5km side trip to the old, old refugio at Mirador de Ordiales, guarded by this calf when I visited.

calf

Here is Pedro Pidal’s (1870-1933) final resting place. He founded this, the first National Park in Spain and was named Commissioner General of National Parks.

…. Eight years after his death, his final wish – to be buried at this natural balcony – was fullfilled at last. Engraved in a nearlby rock are words he wrote:

Lover of the Picos, I would love to live, die and eternally rest here in Ordiales. In the enchanted kingdom of the chamois and the eagles.

I left a Summit Stone with Pedro, placing it carefully between the stones close to the ground.

summit-stone

Somehow Pedro grabbed it from my fingers, pulling it deep into a crack. I guess he wants to keep it for himself.

My view of the famous vista was obscured. Again. By cloud.

cloud-rising

My last night in the wonderful Picos de Europa.

tent-Picos-de-Europa

I was truly sorry to leave these mountains. This is a brilliant hike, one of the very best in the world.

See the rest of my photos from day 5.

The best guidebook in English is sketchy, at best, Lonely Planet Walking in Spain.

Leave a comment if you have any specific questions about this adventure.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

hiking Picos de Europa, Spain – day 4

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

Trip ReportPicos de Europa Circuit – by site editor Rick McCharles

Rick-tent

Here I am, elated to have tented rather than staying under roof at the Collado Jermoso refugio.

Refugio

It’s a long, slow, pretty 1200m (3937ft) descent. Check out the wall looking back up from the valley.

Picos-cliff

My 4km return detour along the river to the town of Posada de Valdeon was well worth the time.

river-Picos

I resupplied at the bakery and two grocery stores.

I took time, too, to visit the Mirador del Tombo.

Mirador del Tombo
more interesting photos of this monument

Ascending back into the trees, I was shocked to see the leaves changing. This was the first time it had dawned on me that my summer of hiking Europe was ending. This was to be my last.

Sept. 12th
Sept. 12th

There were many more Chamois on this section of trail, the largest herds I’d yet seen.

Chamois

Though I had still not found a water supply, I finally set up the tent in a pretty spot well above the Picos mist.

cloud-Picos

Eventually the mist rose up to engulf me.

tent-mist

See the rest of my photos from day 4.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

hiking Picos de Europa, Spain – day 3

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

Trip ReportPicos de Europa Circuit – by site editor Rick McCharles

This was the most photogenic day. Amazing.

I started by climbing up from Bulnes La Villa through high pasture land towards the central summits.

trail-to-mountains

green-pasture

I was looking forward to the iconic peak of the Picos, Naranjo de Bulnes.

Bulnes

It’s a world class climbing destination, obviously. But I was more surprised by the normally shy Chamois that hang about the Vega d’Urriellu refugio (1953m) as if they are domesticated.

Chamois

A cable assisted scramble takes you up and over Torre de los Horcados Rojos.

cable-climber

At the top, this weird silver igloo draws your eye. What the heck is it?

refugio

That’s Cabaña Veronica (2325m), once an American aircraft carrier cannon mount. Three hikers can sleep in it.

The most difficult part of the entire Circuit for me was the section from Veronica to Refugio Collado Jermoso. Here’s the high, bleak terrain. There are cairns at the start. But soon you’ll be guessing wildly, route finding and scrambling for a couple of hours. Convinced that you are hopelessly off route.

A GPS is essential. …

Picos

Somehow I made it. As did a dozen other hikers that day. Many, I noted, arrived late to the refugio.

This was my favourite sunset of the entire summer.

hikers-silouette

I set up the tent in a marvelous spot, very high with grand vistas in every direction.

tent-picos

Curious Chamois came by to check out my tent.

Chamois-tent

Hiking doesn’t get any better than this. .

tent-sunset

See the rest of my photos from day 3.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

hiking Picos de Europa, Spain – day 2

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video

Trip ReportPicos de Europa Circuit – by site editor Rick McCharles

The morning dawned clear. Quickly I climbed up above the valley cloud.

Picos-clouds

I met one of the alpine hut guards … with his free running dogs.

hiking-dogs

Here’s the large sign posted at his refugio, Marques de Villaviciosa:

sign

National Park regulations are somewhat flexible in Spain. And they vary wildly from place to place.

The main “story” of this Circuit are the climbs into and out of the huge Canal de Trea, one of the most spectacular canyons in the world.

descending 1200m of this cliff
descending 1200m of this cliff

There are many slippery and unstable sections before you reach, with relief, the Garganta del Cares gorge at the bottom.

…A remarkable engineering feat, the 3m-wide path running the length of the gorge was gouged out of its sheer walls in 1946 …

bridge

This relatively flat day hike is the best and most popular in the Park.

click for larger view
click for larger view

backpack

I “cheated” and took the Bulnes Funicular (an underground train) part way up the other side of the gorge, avoiding 4.5km distance and about 400m ascending.

My goal for the next day came into view.

Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)
Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)

A long but fantastic hiking day in perfect weather.

See the rest of my photos from day 2.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Kraig Adams video