He’s an Aussie bushwalking guru at Our Hiking Blog.
I’m headed Down Under in January, mate. I’ll bring the duct tape.
hiking Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia
Two places I really want to hike:
1) Bhutan
2) Bolivia
I keep waiting for Bhutan to open to independent trekkers. … sigh …
Bolivia I’ve actually hiked once, but did not have nearly as much time as I wanted.
Bolivia is Peru, but still little visited by trekkers.
… South America’s highest nation is known as the “Tibet of the Andes” for its altiplano, a plateau where valley bottoms sit at 13,000 feet. Above that, mountains are so big and buried in snow and glaciers that you really could mistake them for the Himalayas. And the best place to see it all is western Bolivia’s pristine and barely known Cordillera Apolobamba. Hard against the Peruvian border, the region is home to Andean condors, herds of vicuñas (related to alpacas), endangered speckled bears, and the 65-mile Apolobamba trek, which runs from Curva north across Apolobamba National Park to Pelechuco. The weeklong high route crosses five passes between 15,400 and 16,728 feet. …
Backpacker – CORDILLERA APOLOBAMBA, BOLIVIA
Safety is a real issue in that range. I’d likely sign on with local guides, like trek apolobamba
They are advertising a new adventure, by the way, … the Kallawaya Circuit.
despite regs, people still die on Half Dome
When the new permit system (400/day) went in, we hoped that some of the least capable, least prepared “tourists” would be dissuaded from tackling the cables.
But it’s been a bad year at Yosemite:
… 20 people have died on Half Dome over the decades, nearly all with rain as a factor, officials say. One of the two to perish this year was a Bay Area woman who slipped in a July storm and fell 800 feet. (A total of 13 died in park mishaps this year, the most in decades — including three swept over a raging waterfall on the trail to Half Dome.) …
Surprisingly, helicopter rescues are still free at that Park. But they don’t fly in bad weather — exactly the bad weather that traps people at the top.
Here’s an update on SFgate – Half Dome survivors wish they had taken heed
Note: You can try for a walk-up permit at 7 am the day before you want to climb.
related – Take a Long Hike – Before You Hike, Leave Critical Information
fleeing Mt Yari, Japan
trip report by site editor Rick McCharles
Day 2
I awoke before dawn in one of the best tent sites of my life.
This truly is the land of the rising sun.
Dozens of hikers were already atop nearby Mt Yari. It’s tradition to climb in the dark.
Personally, I was in no rush. The crowds were gone by the time I headed up.
In fact, I had the summit to myself. Nice.
I left a Summit Stone at the Yari summit shrine.
A helicopter arrived. That’s Fuji in the distance.
An elderly gentleman was evacuated. He looked OK to me but had been on oxygen earlier in the morning.
I’m hoping he had insurance. Choppers are very expensive in Japan.
Here are the famous Yari ladders, trickier on the descent than the climb.
Though the weather could not have been finer, the forecast was for rain next day. I gambled, hoping it would hold off long enough for me to finish the Kamokochi – Yari – Hotaka circuit early next morning.
It was too tempting to spend the day walking the ridge towards Murado. Can you blame me?
This region is wrongly compared with Yosemite. In fact, it’s much like the GR20 in Corsica.
The nearest water to Yari I could find was at Sugoruko-goya.
They have quite an elaborate system ensuring a drinking supply for the hiking season. (But you may need to filter out the insects.)
2pm was my turnaround time. It was even prettier on the way back.
I did not see much wildlife. A pair of Rock Ptarmigan were the highlight.
Can you believe this stunning view from Yari-dake-sanso at sunset?
Here’s my last photo of the day — my tent.
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In fact, that was my last photo of the trip.
Going to sleep at 8:30pm, I was awoken at 10:30pm. The storm had arrived.
Wind and driving rain all night kept me up. I listened to an audio book until first light.
It was all I could do to stuff my wet gear and flee back the way I came, the easy way down. This means I MISSED the infamous Diakiretto:
… hole in the ridge
… ladders, chains, big drops …This is, without doubt, the most exhilarating (or the scariest) bit of hiking in Japan that doesn’t require any specialist skills.
Lonely Planet
That route is too dangerous when wet. I’d been warned by Wes Lang, editor of the Hiking in Japan blog.
See all my photos from day 2 of this adventure on Flickr
Or check Day 1 if you missed it.
fleeing the Japanese Alps
by site editor Rick McCharles
Just arrived back to civilization. …
I’m near certain the most popular overnight hiking destination in Japan is Kamikōchi.
People go to walk high ridges and scramble Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳 Yari-ga-take), … one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. … 3,180 m (10,433 ft).
For two days we had perfect weather. (Trip report and photos coming soon.) I put up my tent on a ridge a couple of hundred metres beneath the “spear” (槍 yari).
The first night was fantastic, one of the best spots I’ve ever camped. Both sunset and sunrise.
… but the second night a raucous storm blew in at 10pm. Now I know why none of the Japanese selected such an exposed position.
I listened to an audio book all night, frantic to pack up my soaked belongings at first light, escaping directly to the Tokyo bus.
As a result I missed the infamous “Daikiretto” (die-key-ret-toe – all I see is ‘DIE’).
It will be too late in the season for me this Autumn, but one day I’d love to do the 65km Tate-Yama to Kamikochi traverse of the “Northern Alps”.
It’s somewhat similar to the GR20 in Corsica.
GR20 Trek Corsica – day 5
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Thursday, June 30th, 2011
The woods where I had tented were incredibly chewed up. Seems the forest floor is excavated by 45,000 feral pigs (VIDEO), though I saw none in a week.
Turned out I had camped quite close to the only road I would cross in a week, bringing hikers to Castel di Verghio ski station. There’s a hotel and camping, but most GR20 hikers slept in this Refuge.
Buses do stop here. But I’d decided to continue for at least 3 more days.
I joined the crowds departing at about 8am, descending into a lovely woods.
After about an hour in the trees, an easy trail winds up the hills to this oratory.
Like yesterday, it’s very easy hiking. This was the most rugged section.
I’d been waiting days for my first glimpse of Lac de Nino.
David Abram:
… an exquisite high-altitude lake cradled by 2000m+ peaks. … grazed by herds of wild horses. … this unique spot has an air curiously reminiscent of the Central Asian steppes. …
It’s certainly uniquely different than any other part of the GR20. But are these horses actually wild?
A treat. The only significant section of flat trail I tramped.
You could mountain bike this!
Mangaru Refuge was easily the tidiest of those I checked out.
It even has a modern recycling system.
From there it’s a 650m ascent to Breche de Capitellu 2225m.
The ridge section between the famous Breche de Capitellu (at 2225m the GR’s highest point) and Bocca Muzzela is a non-stop parade of stupendous scenery.
With the clouds blowing in and out, it reminded me of Machu Picchu.
Here’s the night view from my tent, my favourite camp site on the GR20.
GR20 Trek Corsica – day 4
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Wednesday, June 29th, 2011
Surprisingly, I ended up again camping legally.
That’s Refuge de Tighjettu just above my tent.
What do you think ???
After my late arrival the previous night, crossing the Cirque of Solitude, I’d arrived at dusk. And departed early.
Tighjettu is known for it’s popularity (due to location) and ugliness.
Can you blame me for not wanting to sleep at these places?
There’s somewhat better accommodation a bit further on called Bergeries de Vallone. Since I wasn’t spending any money there, I found them unfriendly.
The walk down hill that morning was tranquil. I felt at peace.
In fact, I spent 40min studying the drama happening in a mountain stream pond, something I never do when hiking.
… The baby salamander was trying to eat the tadpole. Unsuccessfully.
The leisurely stroll ended with the trail starting the climb in the direction of Refuge de Ciottulu.
For the first and only time on the trek, I took the lower trail, saving an hour or so.
It was me and the cows down along the pretty river.
This was an amazingly mellow day compared to the 3 previous. The weather could not have been better.
This might be a mouflon, an endangered sheep. (I believe it is, though I saw dozens of the supposedly shy beasts. Fewer than a 1000 remain.)
Feeling strong, I walked until dusk. Finally setting up my tent in some tall trees.
solo in the Cirque of Solitude
by Rick McCharles, editor of besthike.com
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
The Cirque de la Solitude is the crux of the GR20, one of the best and toughest hikes in the world.
Certainly it was the toughest trek of my life.
Tom Fordyce in The Guardian:
… The Cirque de la Solitude is the most notorious single section of the entire GR20. People are so scared of it that they huddle in petrified groups the night before, exchanging horror stories …
The Cirque turns out to be both gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. After 800m of rope-free climbing up, there’s 300m of straight down – straight down as in sheer rock-face, without even any pretense of a path. As a sop to the cowardly, there are some old chains bracketed into the smooth granite. … there’s nothing but the occasional spiky outcrop between you and the valley floor 1,200m below. …
See more Cirque photos on Flickr.
Yet the feared Cirque of Solitude turned out to be the highlight of my GR20.
Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
I arrived late afternoon, the last 3 hikers (rock climbers) of the day having just finished crossing from the opposite direction. Each warned me of the seriousness of the traverse … in multiple languages.
Finally, alone, I dropped into the chasm.
Chain assistance is essential when the rock is wet.
In perfect conditions, I didn’t need them.
But I did need this on the ascent of the far side cliff, a steel ladder.
Moving slowly, carefully, I took about 2hrs to make the crossing, arriving at the far side just in time to ‘turn out the lights’.
Relieved to have achieved and survived, I was even more elated to have done it solitary.
Hikers joke about the name — Cirque of Solitude — as there is normally a log jam of folks bottle-necked at critical points. The main risk, in fact, is rock fall from someone above your fall line.
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This VIDEO gives a better idea of the challenge. Or this VIDEO (1min 30sec), in bad weather.
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Want to start planning your trek to Corsica?
Best Guidebooks in English:
• Trailblazer Corsica Trekking GR20 by David Abram (2008)
• Cicerone GR20: Corsica: The High-level route by Paddy Dillon (2010)
GR20 Trek Corsica – day 3
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
I awoke feeling surprisingly refreshed. But standing up reminded me that my hamstrings had cramped in the middle of the night, in the tent. Severely.
It was essential that I not strain hiking today. That I relax.
… Unfortunately the very start of the day was tough. Crossing the creek on a suspension bridge … and looking at the 750m climb to Bocca a i Stagnu.
This exact spot is where many hikers quit. (There’s an exit back down to the coast via Bonifatu.)
I persisted, scrambling the Spasimata slabs.
You can see that many from the Refuge started together. These kind of rush hour crowds are another reason I prefer tenting in the wild.
There are cables to assist, not needed when dry, but essential when the granite is wet.
It’s a good idea to start up the slabs early, taking advantage of the morning shade.
My obligatory photo of the North American Indian rock …
At the top the GR20 drops down to a ski resort and road — forget that. The high line, instead, is a route finding challenge along the Muvrella Ridge.
I LOVED this section though it was very slow going. That’s the normal GR20 route far below …
Once (eventually) down in the valley, I enjoyed the easiest hiking so far, even taking time to cool my feet.
During the afternoon I pretty much had the trail south to myself as there’s no Refuge before the infamous Cirque de la Solitude, the crux of the GR20.
I was thrilled to be walking so much better today. (It would have been a crushing disappointment to travel all the way to Corsica and miss the Cirque.)
… I planned to wild camp somewhere high and make the famous traverse next morning. It looks pretty thrilling from the photos.
GR20 Trek Corsica – day 2
trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles
» day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | cirque | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | advice |
Monday, June 27th, 2011
I “wild camped” (technically illegal) awaking to the gorgeous vistas of the High Corse.
At this point, I wasn’t sure how strict were the prohibitions against tenting. When I reached the first Refuge, it would be obvious that I must have slept out.
Happily, nobody seems to care on the GR20. There are no “Park Rangers”. But be discrete.
Mountain huts are spaced at regular intervals on the GR20. Hikers are asked to stay at either a Refuge, or at other official accommodation. Bivouacking is not allowed. Surprisingly, I saw no sign that anyone else but me wild camped. People seem to like the Refuges.
Personally, I found Refuge Ortu di u Piobbu quite unappealing. The building sleeps 30. Or you can cram into the cattle proof enclosure with your tent.
Water availability, however, often decides where you can and cannot camp. It’s ill advised ever to walk past one of these water sources …
The trail seeks to stay as high as possible. Wonderful. But physically challenging, especially with a heavy pack. In sunshine, everyone takes the high route. (Low level alternatives are used in winter and foul weather.)
Hot and dry, I cursed my stupidity at carrying so much food when (somewhat expensive) delicious meals are available at the Refuges. It’s very easy to eat at Refuges without sleeping there.
End of June, wild flowers are still a highlight on the GR20.
Day 2 had much less elevation gain, but many tricky scrambling sections, most notably the traverse of Capu Ladroncellu’s south face.
The GR 20 was envisioned as a ridge walk along the spine of the island. As such, the trail often switches from one side of a rocky ridge to the next, maximizing views on both sides.
… slippery rock slabs, through tight corridors, past wind-eroded breaches, overlooking dizzying drops, and down stretches of precipitous, loose shale …
I had hoped to bypass the next campground, Refuge de Carrozzu, but couldn’t quickly find a flat alternative out of sight of the trail. Exhausted, I backtracked and took a tent site.
That Refuge is swarming with ants! Those sleeping under the stars were bothered, but my 1-man coffin (MSR Hubba tent) is secure from insects.
It’s possible to rent-a-tent in case of bad weather … or ant attack. Most rentals are Quechua brand.
At Carrozzu I learned that Refuges are not all bad. Most provide cold showers, for one perk. …
This suspension bridge over an excellent swimming hole is the signature photo op of this Refuge.
It was here too that I saw my first Orchid. Lovely.
See more annotated photos from day 2.
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I slept as if in a coma, again, night 2. But still worried whether or not I was going to finish the entire 180km+ GR20.
Two hikers I spoke with that evening had decided to quit here, both with horrific blisters.
Then in the middle of the night I awoke suddenly, both hamstrings cramped. (… I’ve had a history of muscular cramping after strenuous exercise.)
Will I be able to finish this adventure?
besthike.com 