Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 5

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

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Tunnel Lake to Hunt Lake

I made it through the night without putting the fly on the tent!

DSCN1732UP – as usual – to the next pass. DSCN1735It looked imposing. DSCN1736On the other side are some buildings in Hancock. DSCN1740It was a relief, actually, to make better time walking an old rail line. DSCN1741Everyone loves the under regulation of hiking in Colorado. There are very few restrictive rules. One thing asked is that hikers register in log books as they pass by. Unfortunately each I passed was full. There were no pages left. Seems the system is broken. 😦DSCN1744In 2015 we still walked roads along the Arkansas River head waters en route to Hancock Lake. But volunteers were there in force building the trail which will soon run parallel to the roads. I was impressed with their enthusiasm. DSCN1754Roads – and historical artifacts – exist in unusual places due to mining. DSCN1752I was happy to reach this lovely spot.

Hancock Lake
Hancock Lake

I chatted with a  fisherman. He’d seen a herd of elk cross Chalk Creek Pass this very morning. DSCN1759I didn’t see the elk. But there were three moose at Upper Hancock. DSCN1760 DSCN1767Chalk Creek Pass was glorious. It’s a joy to get good weather up so high.DSCN1773 DSCN1774In the heat, marmots got lazy. DSCN1775 DSCN1791 I happened upon the empty Trail Crew camp. It inspired me to volunteer myself, one day. 🙂DSCN1796 DSCN1803Over the bridge. Up to Boss Lake. DSCN1798 DSCN1807I was keen. The weather was great. But an Austrian couple 3 weeks on the CDT convinced me I didn’t have time to make the final 9 miles so I set up at Hunt Lake. DSCN1810It turned out to be the prettiest campsite of my week. DSCN1812 DSCN1817 DSCN1814 DSCN1821more full resolution photos

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Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 4

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

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Mineral Basin to Tunnel Lake

Good morning from the sunny continental divide. 🙂

DSCN1634I hate starting with a steep climb. Steep climbs like this.
DSCN1637 DSCN1640A lady hiking the opposite direction spotted ptarmigan.
DSCN1643 DSCN1649I celebrated reaching this 12,824ft (3908m) pass. It should be a big deal. Yet this pass has no name, no sign. Not even a cairn.

DSCN1660It was windy, as usual. So I didn’t stay long. Down and down.
DSCN1666 DSCN1670 DSCN1671There are many different species of birds I can’t recognize. Woodpeckers are noisy in forested areas. Those I can identify. 🙂
DSCN1672Glorious.
DSCN1680 DSCN1687 DSCN1692 DSCN1696That’s Tincup Pass Road near St Elmo. ATVs were here in number.
DSCN1697I washed up in the creek.
DSCN1703Then took a siesta for an hour or so. DSCN1711The Tunnel Lake trail ascent more gentle than usual.DSCN1712DSCN1717

Tunnel Lake
Tunnel Lake

Wanting some shelter from (possible) lightning storm, I camped by the lake. Oddly there were almost no established tent sites. In the end I crammed my Hubba into this spot.DSCN1724Another couple set-up in a fairly lousy spot, I thought, up above. DSCN1723At dusk a hare came by to check me out. The first time I can recall any rabbit being curious about my tent.

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Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 3

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

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Texas Creek to Mineral Basin

Wet morning.

DSCN1534I finished my book – Dances with Marmots – a Kiwi’s memoir of hiking the PCT – and left it on the trail for anyone craving an amusing read.

DSCN1541This was the toughest creek crossing. Not bad. DSCN1544 DSCN1546Volunteers are working on this section of the Colorado Trail. I expect there will be a wood bridge here soon.

Despite the wet conditions, I was impressed with my Merrill shoes. No blisters.

DSCN1548This guy goes barefoot in the rain. DSCN1568Water was running high for July. It’s been a wet year.

I was worried, again, about lightning. Happily I’d see no more for the week.DSCN1558The weather improved as I climbed to Cottonwood Pass, a popular tourist stop that I’d visited my only other time in Colorado. DSCN1572I took the high trail approach. And the California couple passed me once again. I saw them climb into a car and drive away. They’d told me they didn’t have enough food to reach their next resupply. So needed to side trip to town for grub.

Cottonwood Pass
Cottonwood Pass

An Austrian couple (I learned later) left the trail here too – their tent and sleeping bags too soaked to continue. It’s a good escape route as many tourists are happy to rescue someone from the continental divide.

On the other side the trail was blocked by snow. Hikers were still detouring to bypass. DSCN1583Here begins my favourite section of the Collegiate West. DSCN1588Miles of continental divide ridge walk. DSCN1592 DSCN1597 DSCN1599 DSCN1600The weather continued to improve. One happy hiker.DSCN1602 DSCN1605 DSCN1608 DSCN1613 DSCN1624It had been a long, tough day, however. And I was happy to finally drop down to find a protected campsite.

DSCN1626I set up in a spot as out-of-the-wind as possible. DSCN1628No water. But good protection.

my dinner vista
my dinner vista

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Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 2

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

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Clear Creek to Texas Creek

I carried my food in an Ursack. Very convenient. The trees here are not ideal for hanging a bear bag.

DSCN1443After a pot of coffee , it was time to do my doodie. A job well done this day. You’d never guess what’s under that flat rock. 🙂

DSCN1442There are no formal campgrounds on Collegiate West. No pit toilets. It’s dispersed camping only.

DSCN1446As so often in the Rockies, you start in the trees and climb to another high pass.

DSCN1448Seems the Collegiate Wilderness has a welcome dog. 🙂 If you want to hike with your dog, Colorado is a great place. I saw many hiking dogs over the week.

DSCN1462These were the only pack lamas I saw. The guys told me they were very helpful. Very good natured.
DSCN1466Mud is a concern in the Colorado Rockies. The Sierras in California are a far dryer alternative.
DSCN1470But I was loving the high altitude scenery.
DSCN1455 DSCN1482 DSCN1473It’s heaven up here when the sun shines.
DSCN1479DSCN1483 DSCN1484Crossing the pass. Again a little snow.

DSCN1491DSCN1498Wow.

DSCN1493 DSCN1505It’s difficult to capture the splendor in a photo.

I dropped down to Texas Creek.

DSCN1507Nice weather. If you are a beaver.

DSCN1525I probably should have stopped in a de facto campground when you first reach the creek. It’s an open field with road access.

Instead I pushed on ending up … here.

DSCN1528It was wet.

DSCN1529Yet … a glorious hiking day, all in all. 🙂

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Colorado Trail – Collegiate West day 1

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

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Twin Lakes to Clear Creek

Absurdly unprepared. But a superb day anyway. 🙂

I had trouble deciding where to hike in Colorado. There are simply too many great options.

The new Collegiate Loop sounded like an excellent and challenging possibility:

… In 2012 the Colorado Trail added an 80 mile stretch of trail that serves as an alternate route around the Collegiate Peaks. The new route, called the Collegiate West, follows the continental divide at much higher elevations. The Collegiate West is above tree line much of the time, which makes for rugged hiking and incredible views. …

The Collegiate East is part of the traditional Colorado Trail that stretches 500 miles from Denver to Durango. The 160-mile Collegiate Peaks backpacking loop is formed by hiking both the Eastern and Western routes of this section.

Clever Hiker

Collegiate LoopWe dropped my friend Betsy at a mountain running race near Aspen. Husband Brion drove me on to Twin Lakes, recommended as one of the best places to start the Collegiate Loop. I was hoping to get information at the General Store.

DSCN1385They sold me a new map covering the entire Collegiate Loop, but the shop-keep had not heard of the new dedicated guidebook.

Historically they’ve considered Collegiate West the Continental Divide Trail, Collegiate East the Colorado Trail.  It’s going to take some years before locals start considering the western side part of the Colorado Trail.

I was excited to get this adventure started. Ready or not.

DSCN1387Brion and Julius started up the trail with me around 11am. Thanks for the send off.

DSCN1393Just after posing for this shot, I knocked my pack into that creek. 😦
DSCN1395 DSCN1397Happily almost everything inside is kept in waterproof bags.
DSCN1398It’s a steep climb to reach the treeline en route to Hope Pass, the highest point on the Collegiate Loop 12,500ft (3810m).

I didn’t suffer much from altitude despite having only one acclimatization hike since flying in from sea level. Smarter hikers than myself would have finished crossing Hope Pass rather than starting here.

On the downside, it was raining.

DSCN1401I took shelter under those far trees with an older couple from California who were section hiking, year by year, Canada to Mexico on the Continental Divide Trail. Like me, this was their first day. They’d also started at Twin Lakes. The twosome and their dog planned to hike to the New Mexico border this summer.

DSCN1402I was embarrassed to admit to them I didn’t know whether I was hiking north or south. That’s how unprepared I was. I hadn’t yet opened my new map.

They’d hiked Collegiate East the previous summer and told me it was much less spectacular. Right then and there I decided NOT to do the entire 160 miles, but rather just the most spectacular half.

DSCN1404When the rain let up a little, I tried to get up and over Hope Pass as quickly as possible. Lightning is a real danger in the Colorado Rockies. The couple told me to go ahead and that they’d plod along behind. (The tortoise and the hare, I thought.)
DSCN1412End of July 2015 the remaining snow was not a problem. Earlier some seasons it would be a good idea to bring an ice axe.

DSCN1413 DSCN1419A couple of trail runners paused to chat. They were changing gears from uphill to downhill. This spot is where some of the Leadville Trail 100 mile racers come to grief. It’s  3,400ft of vertical on the front side, descending about 2,600ft.
DSCN1421 DSCN1420 The southern side  of the Pass was equally scenic. Plenty of wild flowers. It had been a very wet Spring and Summer here.
DSCN1422
DSCN1423I saw all kinds of wildlife: a ptarmigan family, chipmunks, pica, marmot, weasel. The oddest was a group of snakes sunning on trailside rocks. I was so surprised I didn’t manage to get a good photo.

DSCN1425At another stop I carefully set down the pack. Then watched it roll downhill finally coming to rest in the bushes.
DSCN1432Quite quickly, dropping down to the valley, vegetation changes.  DSCN1433You pass a number of old mine shafts. DSCN1434The final few miles to Clear Creek near Winfield were exhausting though the trail was comparatively flat. I’d been running on enthusiastic adrenaline. It finally ran out.

About 6pm I grabbed the first campsite I saw.

Clear Creek CampGood night.

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2 hikers dead on the Kepler Track

Thinking of Étienne Lemieux and Louis-Vincent Lessard today. 😦

Police in New Zealand believe two bodies found in avalanche debris are Louis-Vincent Lessard and Étienne Lemieux, two Quebec travellers who went missing during an outdoor adventure trip. …

The first body was found over the weekend in a field of avalanche debris about 350 metres below the Kepler track, where the two had planned to go hiking. A second body was discovered Monday at about 10:30 a.m. New Zealand time. …

“The majority of people who walk the Kepler track do it in summer and there’s seldom any snow. Totally different story in winter, when large volumes of snow can fall in that area. Not many people at all walk the Kepler track in winter.” …

CBC

louis-vincent-lessard-etienne-lemieux

climbing Mount Sopris, CO

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

I’m arrived Colorado. 🙂 Only my second hiking trip to this fantastic State.

As a warm-up leg stretcher, on Saturday I attempted Sopris, the imposing peak above Carbondale. Elevation 12,953 feet.

Sopris

We were up at 6am. My host, Brion, owner of Independence Run and Hike, wished it had been 5am. The Colorado Rockies are famous for mid-day lightning storms.

At the trailhead Brion took off for a training run. I turned the opposite direction to start up Sopris.

DSCN1315Brion warned me of aggressive cows and possibly even bulls. They weren’t aggressive with us. But they were a bit of a pain.

DSCN1317I met Matt – recently moved to Colorado from the East coast – at the start. He and I walked together to the top.

DSCN1324We took no breaks up to the Thomas lakes. Happy with the speed of ascent, we decided to carry on and have our first break above the treeline.

DSCN1322Lunch  on the ridge was terrific. Big vistas down both sides.

DSCN1327Above the treeline the scramble up Sopris begins. The trail disappears at times up unstable boulders.

DSCN1330Our goal was the first summit. It looked an easy hour from our lunch vantage.

DSCN1331Up on the scree ridge footing gets easier leading to the false summit. Many stop here as the views are just about as good as on the summit. But Matt and I felt good. Wanted to go all the way.

DSCN1332And the weather was holding. Check this blue sky. 🙂

DSCN1336Sadly, in the other direction big scary clouds were rushing up the valley. When we saw the first lightning bolts, we turned back. 🙂

DSCN1338I planned to hurry down to the lakes. And cool my feet in cold alpine waters.

DSCN1339It’s far more dangerous going down than climbing up. Be careful.

DSCN1345A real highlight this time of year is wild flowers.

DSCN1378 DSCN1376 DSCN1367

As the weather worsened, I increased my pace. But still got caught in a downpour the last 20 minutes to the parking lot.

DSCN1381

I hid from the rain at the pit toilet, changing clothes for the long mountain bike ride back to Carbondale.

DSCN1382

I always carry empty dry bags in my pack just for this kind of soaking rain.

DSCN1383

It was a fun, muddy roll down the mountain. The best part of the day.

DSCN1384more photos

related – Hiking in Colorado – Mount Sopris

we love the Pacific N.W.

We’ve just added an information page on the region.

Definitions of the Pacific Northwest region vary and there is no commonly agreed upon boundary, even among Pacific Northwesterners. A common conception of the Pacific Northwest includes … Oregon and Washington as well as British Columbia.

AT A GLANCE

  • fantastic coastal adventures including the West Coast Trail, our #1 hike in the world
  • fantastic alpine hiking 
  • easy access via Seattle, Portland or Vancouver
  • best weather June through September. But there are many great options year round due to the comparatively mild climate

GREAT Pacific N.W. hikes include …

We’re hiking the Sunshine Coast this week. 🙂

sunshine-coast-map

 

High Divide Loop (7 Lakes Basin)

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

I was en route to hike the Cape Alava to Rialto Beach “Shipwreck Coast” on the Olympic peninsula end of June.

But when I dropped by the the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles on the way to the trailhead, Rangers informed me that famed High Divide Loop (7 Lakes Basin) was open early this year. Winter had dropped very little snow on the high peaks.

I instantly changed my plan. You can hike the Shipwreck Coast almost any time. But the High Divide Loop window is time limited. Late July to mid-October most years.

The High Divide Loop is very weather dependent. I arrived during a heat wave. Blue skies. Quite rare in the high mountains of the rainy coast.

It turned out to be a good call.

Rick Mt Olympus

AT A GLANCE

  • the jumping off point (and best finish) for the High Divide Loop is Sol Duc Hot Springs in Olympic National Park
  • 20.3mi (32.6km) including sidetrips to Lunch Lake and Bogachiel Peak
  • must carry a tent and be completely self-sufficient
  • cumulative elevation 5200ft

On the advice of a Ranger, I booked 2 campsites:

  1. Deer Lake
  2. Sol Duc Park (near Heart Lake)

Circuit map

I started with the day hikers heading up to Sol Duc Falls.

High Divide - 3

High Divide - 4 High Divide - 2

It’s a steep up,up,up from there to Deer lake. Nice campsite. But it did have mosquitos. I was happy to have carried my mesh bug shirt.

Deer lake

The Park was extremely dry while I was there. Normally you get wet feet on this hike. Boardwalk helps.

High Divide - 6

 

I used the instagator technique to keep pebbles and dust out of my approach shoes.

High Divide - 12

This was my first glimpse of Mt Olympus next morning. I was very pleased the skies stayed clear. This summit is usually cloud shrouded.

High Divide - 11

Though the old growth forest trails are tranquil, it was fantastic to get above the tree line.

High Divide - 10

I love the bear grass, but wildflowers were less prolific than expected.

High Divide - 17

I stashed my pack on the ridge and dropped into  into 7 Lakes Basin for some day hiking.

High Divide - 14

It is marvellous.

High Divide - 18

Climbing back up to the ridge I continued to one of the most famous viewpoints in the Olympics, Bogachiel peak.

High Divide - 19

The ridge walk above the basin is fantastic in clear weather. You look down on the many-more-than-7-lakes.

High Divide - 24

I was exhausted and dehydrated by the time I finally dropped down towards Heart Lake.

High Divide - 25

Rangers there told me where I could find good water. There was none on the ridge. 😦

I had been counting on melting snow. Unfortunately I found no snow.

With relief I set up my tent at Sol Duc Park campsite. Washed my feet. And took an hour siesta.

High Divide - 26

In the late afternoon I made a long day hike past Cat Basin campground to see what my guidebook claimed was the best view of Olympus. I wasn’t disappointed. 🙂

High Divide - 29

Next morning was an easy downhill exit through old growth. Very mellow.

If you’d like to see 7 Lakes Basin and Mt Olympus for yourself, check our new information page.

Jasper vs Banff: Alberta National Park Showdown

Intrepid Escape:

If there’s one thing Alberta Canada is known for, its the stunning National Parks in the Rocky Mountains, an area surprisingly accessible to the UK and Europe. In one corner of the ring we have Jasper, the smaller town but larger National Park, with over 11,000 square kilometres of intrepid wilderness. And in the other it’s Banff, with 6,600 square kilometres to explore, but rich in history and a larger more vibrant town. Both Jasper and Banff are UNESCO World Heritage sites, but which one is best? …

Jasper vs Banff National Park, Alberta Canada
Jasper vs Banff National Park, Alberta Canada

Jasper-vs-Banff-Intrepid-Escape-3.jpg-nggid03962-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010

Click here to see the winner. 🙂

Hiking wise, I’d say Banff is superior. Scenery is slightly better in Jasper. But access and logistics are superb from Banff townsite. It’s the jumping off point for one of our top 10 hikes in the world – Sunshine to Assiniboine.

Thanks Alison.