alpine – Page 61 – besthike.com

October 22, 2015October 25, 2015

DAY 1 Sierra Nevada Traverse

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

I wasn’t surprised to see Josh and Alisha climb on to the morning bus from Granada to Trevélez. We’d met at Oasis hostel in Granada and discussed the possibility of starting together.

From this trailhead above Trevélez village many do the climb to Mulhacén and back in 10 hours. Having camping gear, we were in no such rush. I planned on 3 days, 2 nights.

Mulhacén is the highest peak in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains and the Alps. It is also the third most topographically prominentpeak in Western Europe, after Mont Blanc and Mount Etna, and is ranked 64th in the world by prominence. …

The scenery was dry, autumn. We were actually happy it was overcast. Heat emergency is just as real a risk on this walk as cold emergency. There’s no shade.

The elevation gain to our planned campground was about 1000m, a relentless climb. Alisha was already worried about her pack weight.

Josh was traveling very light. In fact, he had NO JACKET.

I was feeling terrific. Happy to be here. I ASSumed any mountains in southern Spain had to be much easier than those I’d just left in the Indian Himalaya. 🙂

How bad could it get? We could see the tourists beaches.

Every once in a while sunlight peaked through.

There was no water between Trevélez and this waterfall close to the top.

My Lonely Planet guidebook was quite wrong on this urgent subject:

“Plenty of water from springs, streams and tarns.” (p 279)

Water IS a constant concern on the Traverse late in the season.

We made it at dusk. The “Seven Lakes”.

Gorgeous.

Cold. Crowded. Windy. Josh was forced into his tent. Alisha and I stayed out in the wind cooking tea and food.

I was worried about the weather next morning. The forecast was not good. It could snow. 😦

day 1 | day 2| day 3 | day 4

October 21, 2015October 21, 2015

Greater Patagonian Trail

UPDATE from Jan Dudeck:

During the last Patagonian summer I continued the investigation and publication of the Greater Patagonian Trail. The trail has now a total length of 1400 to 1500 km – depending on the options chosen – and the trail description contains may updates. I.e. section 17 and 18 were added this year and KMZ and GPX files with plenty of waypoints and several alternative routes are published for all sections.

Also the first hikers have completed the trail or parts of if base on this publication. One Israeli hiker walked sections 1 to 16 in about 50 days (all that was published at this time) and at least 8 more hikers did substantial parts of the Greater Patagonian Trail based on this trail description. …

This trail is not finished yet. There is plenty of terrain left till this trail finally reaches the southern tip of Patagonia and ends either on the shores of the Magellan street or even on Tierra del Fuego. But what is published so far can be hiked by a well experienced self-reliant hiker without much seek and search.

I also look forward that other hikers contribute to this trail by verifying some of the options and adding more sections. The publication on “wikiexplora” permits and facilitates such contributions because “wikiexplora” allows like “wikipedia” a collaboration of multiple authors.

Email: jan.dudeck (a) gmx.ch

Website: http://www.wikiexplora.com/index.php/Greater_Patagonian_Trail

___ original post from Sept 8, 2014:

… in South America leads right through the heart of the legendary Patagonian Andes. It’s a stunningly beautiful and diverse trail that crosses volcanic fields, idyllic Andean valleys, snow covered mountain ranges, lush green forests and deep blue lakes and rivers. …

The complete trail can be hiked in one summer season and requires approx. 90 to 120 days …

The generally recommended trekking direction is southbound …

The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that is set up and managed by a government agency. Is simply a compilation of horse trails, minor roads and some cross country sections …

The trail is mostly unmarked, partly not visible and only smaller fractions are documented with maps. Therefore a GPS is essential for navigation. In addition an electronic topographical map is recommended. …

River Crossings are possibly the greatest hazard …

wikiexplora – Greater Patagonian Trail

I’m considering a trip to Patagonia starting January 2016. Certainly I’ll do a section of the GPT, if I can. 🙂

October 17, 2015October 16, 2015

walking to the Banff Film Festival

Kraig Becker:

A few years back, British adventurers Leon McCarron and Alastair Humphreys make an epic journey on foot through the Empty Quarter on the Arabian Peninsula. They made a film about their adventure that was later accepted into the Banff Film Festival. The boys were so excited about this turn of events, that they decided to fly to Canada to attend the premiere of their documentary. But in true adventurous style, they didn’t just want to hop a bus from the airport to Banff, but instead decided to travel their on foot. This short film takes us along with them on that journey …

Video: West on Deerfoot with Leon McCarron and Alastair Humphreys

Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.

Love it. … But living in Calgary, I have to tell you that the Deerfoot Trail runs north/south. The lads did not walk west on that section. 🙂

October 14, 2015October 9, 2015

Nepal open for trekking

Sorrow for the earthquake victims is one reason I went to Ladakh in 2015 rather than Nepal.

But Nepal is open for business.

In August, the US and UK lifted their country-wide travel advisories against travel to Nepal, meaning that travellers and companies can once again get travel insurance for upcoming trips. Most western travel companies plan to run trekking trips as normal for the 2015/16 winter and spring seasons and some companies are even offering special reconstruction treks …

In many ways now is a great time for tourists to visit Nepal. The infrastructure that travellers need is in place, but tourism is down by over 50%, which means fewer crowds on the popular trekking routes and discounts for hotels and airfares. More importantly, the money you spend when hiring a guide or porter, staying in a lodge or hotel, or eating in a restaurant will directly help local people. Given that 500,000 Nepalis work directly in tourism, the country needs travellers more than ever to rebuild its economy and bounce back stronger for the future.

Is it time to go back to Nepal?

Langtang is completely closed, however. Helambu badly affected.

October 9, 2015October 8, 2015

Sierra Nevada Traverse, Spain

I’m heading out Saturday by bus from Granada to Trevelez, Andalucia to try for the 3 day, 45km Sierra Nevada Traverse.

Trevelez to Lanjaron.

… It’s a little late in the season.

I should probably be down on the sunny coast. Not up there.

details

October 7, 2015October 6, 2015

Everest – film review

Finally saw the $55 million Hollywood blockbuster – which has grossed $137.4 million, so far.

Everest has received generally positive reviews from critics. On Rotten Tomatoes, the film holds a rating of 72%, based on 178 reviews, with an average rating of 6.7/10. …

Click PLAY or watch the trailer on YouTube.

Jon Krakauer, author of Into Thin Air, denounced the movie, stating some of its details were fabricated and defamatory. …

The widow of Scott Fischer is not happy, either.

Kraig Becker:

Hollywood has a along history of making mostly bad movies about climbing and mountaineering. …

… few films can hold a candle to Touching the Void for instance. But now, the big blockbuster production Everest is set to get a wide release in theaters this week, and if you’re looking for well made, at times harrowing, film about high altitude climbing, you certainly could do a lot worse. …

The film is based on the actual events that took place back in 1996, when one of the biggest disasters in mountaineering history took place. The story is a well known one in mountaineering circles of course, with Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air most famously telling the tale. …

… This is a film that is beautifully made, and seeing sweeping shots of Everest, and the Khumbu Valley that leads up to it, was breathtaking. …

Probably my favorite aspect of the film was Jason Clarke’s portrayal of Rob Hall. He did a great job of selling the character, and was the centerpiece of the entire movie. …

Adventure Blog – Movie Review: Everest Gets It Right – Mostly

I don’t expect Hollywood films to get EVERYTHING right. Anatoli Boukreev – for example – could barely speak English, I understood. Until this film.

I liked it even better than Kraig. (And much better than Krakauer). 🙂

I must have cried for 30 minutes or more.

October 6, 2015October 6, 2015

Alchi Circuit, Ladakh – day 3

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

About midnight I felt droplets of rain on my face. For the first time in Ladakh I got up and put the fly on the tent.

Opening the fly next morning I was surprised to see a winter wonderland.

Yet more new snow dusted the mountains.

I’d tented out of sight in these trees.

Dropping further down the valley I finally saw some people. An elderly couple bringing up their goats to graze.

It’s a nice valley, for sure. Some of the buildings impressive.

My face somewhat burned from reflected snow the previous day, the shade of the creek foliage was appreciated.

I saw some unusual Buddhist flags and scarfs en route. Like wash day at the monastery.

This is some significant Buddhist site. Unusual rock formations.

I know because a foreign tourist arrived by car to take photos. Here. On this excellent black top roadway.

A road? What?! 😦

There are no people in this valley. Yet the Indian government built a road up this valley?

I’d planned two more nights on the Alchi circuit. But right here I decided my trek was over. I don’t hike roads.

Then – despite my protestations – I proceeded to hike the road all the way down to Sumdha Do.

Mountain people want roads and electricity. Both degrade the hiking experience.

AND it’s nearly impossible to maintain these roads. Washouts, rock slides and collapse are non-stop.

At Sumdha Do I had trouble finding out how to escape. Indians feel it’s polite to give strangers an answer, even if it’s incorrect. Finally I collected 3 independent answers that concurred.

This was the road heading in the direction of Leh.

It was 21km to Nimmu village on the main highway.

Would I have to walk it?

NOPE. 🙂

The second vehicle to pass picked me up. An Indian Army jeep.

They dropped me – after a rough ride – at the highway crossroads. The second vehicle to pass picked me up. Turned out it was a jammed, shared taxi. For $2 it delivered me back to Leh by 1pm.

After a hot shower I was just in time for the closing ceremonies of the annual Ladakh festival. Speeches. Ethnic music and dancing.

I didn’t last long. I headed, instead, to the excellent Leh Ling Cafe & Bookstore for Chai.

See all the high resolution photos from this day.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

October 4, 2015October 6, 2015

Alchi Circuit, Ladakh – day 1

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

After 2 days rain delay, the morning dawned lovely in Leh.

First stop was the outdoor bakery near the main Mosque.

I picked up 10 flat bread for less than $1. My hiking lunches. With peanut butter. 🙂

At the NEW Bus Station I found the (unmarked) 8am bus to Alchi, about 70km away. It was packed.

Alchi Monastery or Alchi Gompa … is said to be the oldest and most famous. …

The monastery complex was built, according to local tradition, by the great translator Guru Rinchen Zangpo between 958 and 1055. However, inscriptions in the preserved monuments ascribe it to a Tibetan noble called Kal-dan Shes-rab later in the 11th century …

The artistic and spiritual details of both Buddhism and the Hindu kings of that time in Kashmir are reflected in the wall paintings … These are some of the oldest surviving paintings in Ladakh. …

I made the Kora. Let’s hope my hike goes well.

My last meal.

The Italian woman who joined me at the tiny restaurant in Alchi square was hospitalized in Leh the day before. Altitude sickness. She was given 2 shots and 3 different pills!

The restaurant owner pointed me in the right direction at 11am. Wandering though local fields.

I was at an altitude of 3,100m (10,200ft). And needed to climb at least 2km vertical!

Here’s the one and only lizard I saw on the trip. He stayed behind in the sun.

It’s an easy start. Winding up a Himalayan valley.

Still, I was worried. I’d need to cross a huge, difficult pass, about the same height as I could see on the other side of the Indus valley.

Higher and higher.

Up a side valley I spotted Blue Sheep. Here’s the herd at 32x zoom.

That oasis across the Indus is the famed Buddhist temple Likir.

I set up my tent at the last possible site, the highest shepard shelter. My guidebook called it Stakspi La Base Camp. It was 3:30pm.

In the bright Tibetan sunlight, the autumn colours were lovely.

My goal for tomorrow is climbing up and over this 5000m+ wall.

Goodnight.

See all the high resolution photos from this day.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

October 3, 2015October 6, 2015

Alchi Circuit, Ladakh – day 0

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

I’d finished the famed Markah Valley trek in 7 days.

What next?

My hiking guidebook by Kucharski detailed a nearby alternative called Alchi – A circuit over five passes.

“… less popular and slightly harder than Markha …”

Sounded good to me.

The trailhead is famed Alchi monastery, about 70km from Leh.

Fit and ready to go, my start was delayed 2 days by … rain.

Rain? It never rains in Ladakh. 😦

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | not recommended

September 30, 2015October 2, 2015

Markha trek, Ladakh – day 7

trip report by besthike editor Rick McCharles

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | info page

Good morning.

After 2 pots of coffee in a totally empty campground, the first sight of my hiking day was … these.

The river valley continued rocky requiring many boulder hops.

Chockdo 3985m is a pretty place.

Well stocked with dung fuel for winter.

Unfortunately electricity has reached Chockdo. If I see electrical lines or motor vehicles, I quit hiking ASAP.

The homestays here actually look appealing.

Compared with yesterday, this descent was a piece of cake.

I was a little fried, but – like the horses – happy to be reaching the finish line.

At Shang Sumdo I found 2 jeeps packing up. One was already full. The other agreed to drive me back to Leh for $8.

I said goodbye to the Markha circuit.

And goodbye to Sergei.

He decided to walk to the highway. Then hitchhike to somewhere else. Somewhere with more trees. 🙂

Home sweet home. Hotel Chube in Leh.

Luke warm shower. Dosa and uttapam for lunch. 3 hours of internet. Then a celebration dinner with friends at Chopsticks, my favourite restaurant in town.

Astonishingly we watched professional wrestling on TV. It’s unbelievably popular in India.

See all my high resolution photos from this day on flickr.

day 0 | day 1 | day 2 | day 3 | day 4 | day 5 | day 6 | day 7 | info page

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