aerial photography of the Andes

Washington Post Staff Writer Marie Arana got the chance to fly over the second highest mountain range in the world.

What a stroke of luck! Or is it?

Bobby Haas, a seasoned aerial photographer, was on the seventh leg of a year-long project to take bird’s-eye views of all of Latin America for a lavish volume to be released in September.

When, in e-mail correspondence with him, I casually expressed an interest in seeing the mountains of Peru from that vantage, he invited me to go along. Now, I’m no high-risk adventurer and actually prefer the comforts of a good tub to the rigors of the road …

Winging It in the Andes of Peru – washingtonpost.com

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alternative trails to Machu Picchu

Not a bad article on Inca Trail Trek to Machu Pichu in the New York Times:

As it runs through craggy mountain passes and ancient Incan ruins, the fabled Inca Trail in Peru reveals surprise after surprise to travelers hiking its length to the lost city of Machu Picchu. But here’s a new one: To set foot on that fabled Andean footpath, you’ve first got to fight through a three-month waiting list. …

A few years ago, the Inca Trail was becoming the Long Island Expressway of central Peru, brimming with trash, tourists and growing concerns about overuse. So the Peruvian government began enforcing strict limits on the number of people allowed on the trail. Right now, only 500 people a day may enter — about 200 tourists and 300 guides and porters.

And so, “alternative” Inca Trails are gaining popularity with travelers unable or unwilling to book a slot three to six months in advance. These treks can be booked a day or two in advance and can cost less than half as much as a hike on the Inca Trail.

Taking the Back Roads to Machu Picchu – New York Times

We agree that most serious hikers would prefer one of the alternatives to the Inca Trail.

The standard is Salcantay which was good when we did it in 2004, but is degrading rapidly. And now also regulated.

Far better and far more difficult is Choquiquirao to Machu Picchu. Hurry on that adventure, however. Peruvian officials are already looking at it.

At besthike we have high hopes for Bolivia. Trekking there is as yet very little developed due to government instability. But one day …

Check our full list of the best hikes in South America.

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day 2 – Choquequirao to Machu Picchu – Zusk’s trip report

when can I hike Wonderland?

I’ve wanted to hike the Wonderland Trail since first hearing of it from a Washington State friend.

One group took 12 days in 2005 to circumambulate Mt. Ranier 90mi (145km). But they planned for resupply by having a friend walk in to meet them from the opposite direction.

Good idea.

Summerland to Indian Bar was an “incredible scenic route”. And at Indian Bar they saw 3 black bears.

Sadly, terrible flooding in November 2006 wrecked havoc. Hopefully the trail will be passable by summer 2007. But damage had not even been assessed in December.

Check out the trip report and 65 photos from the Wonderland Trail.

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Wonderland Trail – besthike information page

hiking Angeles National Forest, California

Escaping the smog of LA is not so tough.

You could drive up to Mt. Whitney.

Or what about Timber Mountain via Icehouse Canyon in Angeles National Forest?

Modern Hiker posted a terrific trip report with photos, video, Google map, a flickr photo set, … (Is this blog GREAT, or what!)

Theirs was a challenging 10mi day hike with the wind blowing hard. But you could do a multi-day trip via Ice House Saddle if you prefer.

I opened the door to the Mount Baldy Visitor’s Center and walked inside. The warm, dark wood interior was a welcome respite from the howling winds outside. The rangers stood behind their desk – a bearded man and blond woman – smiling at me.

“Hi. I’d like a permit for the Cucamonga Wilderness.”

Still smiling, the woman said, “We are not recommending anyone go up there today.”

“Oh?”

The man chimed in. “We’re measuring wind gusts at 60 miles an hour. I almost got knocked down today.”

“But of course, we can’t do anything to stop you,” said the woman. Still smiles, that one.

I reached for a ballpoint pen and started filling out our Wilderness Permit. “I’m going to try for Ontario Peak. Is it more windy in the canyons, or on the ridge?”

“It’s windy everywhere.” The man with the beard was not smiling. All gravitas, he.

“What about ice?” …

Timber Mountain via Icehouse Canyon – Modern Hiker

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trekking to Everest – recommended

Baxter Gillespie is just back from 3 weeks walking to a trekking peak in the Himalayas.

Yes he encountered the Maoist rebels.

Yes he still recommends Nepal.

In fact, Baxter is planning to return next season to bag another peak.

Our plan was to carry all our own equipment but to hire a guide and stay in the guest houses for the three week trip to the 18,192′ summit of Kala Pataar which overlooks Everest Base Camp.

Over the course of the trip our guide, Depak, became a great friend and ambassador to his mountain world.

The Nepali people were very open and taught us much about their culture. The scenery was overwhelming. Even after seeing photos of the Himalayas for years, I was awed by the magnitude when viewing them in person. …

The trip turned out to be a fantastic experience. We had incredible adventures from snake charmers in Kathmandu to dealing with Maoist rebels on the trail and bargaining with Tibetan traders in the town of Namche City. We are completely hooked on traveling in Nepal and are now planning a more technical climbing trip back for next Fall.

If you are even contemplating going to Nepal, do it. I’ll see you there next year!

Backcountry Blog: Nepal Trek – A Journey to Everest

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video – Huayhuash Circuit trek in Peru

by Rick McCharles, editor

When we named our top 10 hikes in the world, #11 was the Huayhuash Circuit.

Personally, it’s been my most dramatic, inspiring hiking adventure, of all.

While there my camcorder / camera broke half way around the 11-day trip. The tape was somewhat damaged, as well.

Happily, I’ve salvaged a few clips. (Featured are our pack horses and fantastic mule driver who spent his days worrying about getting us back alive.)

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Interested?

WHY WE LOVE HUAYHUASH

* PERU, all things considered, offers the best alpine hiking in the world

* the remote, forbidding Huayhuash range was made famous when Joe Simpson & Simon Yates climbed Siula Grande in 1985. The book & film Touching the Void were both hits.

* getting high at Punta Coyoc pass 5490m (18,012ft) !!

* Peru’s second highest summit, Yerupaja (6634m)

* non-stop vistas — entire Circuit is above treeline

* intensely glaciated, intensely beautiful

* condors and other wild birds

* fantastic natural hotsprings half way round the Circuit

* limited road access, few people

* travel in Peru for as little as US$20 / day

* a trip with pack animals is good value

* lifetime experience you will never forget

CONSIDERATIONS

Huayhuash is dangerous. Hikers have died there. This is arguably the best hike in the world but is appropriate only for robust, experienced high altitude trekkers.

The greatest danger is altitude sickness. We hired horses instead of mules so we could evacuate by horse, if necessary.

Huayhuash Circuit in Peru – besthike information page

pioneering a trek to Kachenjunga, Nepal

Søren Viit Nielsen hosts a wonderful website documenting his many trekking adventures. (Danish and English)

In 2002 Søren hiked to both south and north basecamps of Kachenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. (map)

He used Cicerone: Kangchenjunga: A Trekker’s Guide by Kev Reynolds.

Even if your Danish is rusty, the gorgeous pictures tell the story.

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Søren returned in 2004 to guide 10 Danish clients and a Nepalese staff of about 30 people (guide, cook, sherpas, kitchen staff, and porters). But this time he chose a new route, just opened because new suspension bridges were built in 2003-04 across the Tamur River. None of his group had been this way before. (map)

Tibetan culture and interactions with mountain peoples were big highlights.

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BlueDandelion.net – Søren Viit Nielsen

best hike in the world NOT on our top 10 is …

The Huayhuash Circuit, Peru

Huayhuash is the best hike this blogger has ever done.

To include it in the top 10, however, is to promote it too lightly.

It’s remote and forbidding. This is where Joe Simpson & Simon Yates climbed Siula Grande in 1985. The book & film Touching the Void were based on that disastrous misadventure.

You need high alpine experience and an excellent guide. People get in trouble in the Huayhuash.

The Circuit is a minimum 140km (87mi) plus numerous sidetrips.

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We spent 11 days with horses carrying our gear. A fantastic experience.

Don’t even think of booking a ticket to Peru without first checking with the experts on the Huayhuash. Start with La Cima Logistics, based in Huaraz, Peru. Then check Peaks and Places.

Why we love it:

  • getting high at Punta Coyoc pass 5490m (18,012ft) !!
  • Peru’s second highest summit, Yerupaja (6634m)
  • non-stop vistas — entire Circuit is above treeline
  • intensely glaciated, intensely beautiful
  • condors and other wild birds
  • fantastic natural hotsprings half way round the Circuit
  • limited road access, few people
  • a trip with pack animals is good value
  • lifetime experience you will never forget

    Considerations:

  • Huayhuash is not a National Park.
  • it is almost completely unpoliced
  • a few hikers are robbed every season
  • best months are May to September
  • many passes over 4600m (15,092ft) will challenge you
  • weather is not nearly as good as in the nearby Cordillera Blanca
  • actually, the weather is terrible
  • prepare for cold & wind. Hypothermia is a risk.
  • no toilets — you should hire a proper toilet tent and shovel
  • toilet tents should be at least 50m from the nearest stream or lake
  • dogs will steal food right out of your tent
  • campsites are badly littered. Carry out your trash.
  • many hikers get lost. Map, compass & guidebooks are essential.
  • May – Sept is spawning season for trout. Do not fish nor buy fish from local herders. The once terrific trout fishing has been decimated.
  • if you like Huayhuash, you would also like Alpamayo and Ausangate in Peru, both easier treks to organize
  • Details on our Huayhuash Circuit information page.

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    larger photo – flickr – craigass

    John Muir Trail in 15 days

    Jeffrey Hunter, Southeast Trail Programs Director of the American Hiking Society, did the JMT August 11 – 25 this past summer.

    He recommends August as biting insects are in decline, “water is still plentiful, and the days are long”.

    I can do long days, myself. Having never thru-hiked it, I would try for a fast trip like this. For one thing, it reduces the amount of food I would have to carry on the challenging second half.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Check Jeffrey’s blog: Southern Appalachians Initiative

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    Kings Canyon National Park – Jeffrey Hunter

    This is just one of his 2006 – The Hiking Year in Pictures series.

    John Muir Trail – more information