Author: Rick Mc

Career gymnastics coach who loves the outdoors, and the internet.
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Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 2

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

SUMMIT DAY

Tim’s great selfie (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Awoke at the lake before dawn.ย  Went straight to the hotsprings on my own.ย  Had the hot bath to myself.ย 

We packed up camp quickly.ย 

Said goodbye to the lake.ย 

There are only a few bridges on this adventure.  More often you scramble down โ€” and back up.   It must be miserable in the rain. 

Rarely are there stone steps.ย  This ainโ€™t Nepal.ย 

We had about 600m to gain back climbing up to the 2nd crater rim from the lake.ย 

It was tough.

When I say tough, in addition to being technical, we increasingly had to deal with slippery ash. ย 

Once on the ridge, we set-up our tents. Had lunch.ย  Then a short lie down until 2pm. ย 

One of these pests actually went inside Mason’s tent while he was there! Cheeky.

Tim’s photo (tim_de_bruijn on Instagram)

Weโ€™d decided as a group to go for sunset today rather than sunrise the following morning.ย  This turned out to be our best decision.ย 

That means weโ€™d climb another 1100m trying to get to the top before the sunset.ย  A deadline.ย 

It looked doable to me. 

BUT it got increasingly slippery and dusty as we ascended.ย 

Once above the clouds, we were motivated by the amazing vista.ย 

Gorgeous views โ€” though it was dusty plodding in sections.ย 

Very, very slippery โ€”ย we all used systems to keep scrambling slippery scree.ย  I did bouts of 20 steps.ย 

Made it!ย  And well before sunset. ย 

Only 1 other group tried our itinerary.  Perhaps half their group finished, just about sunset. 

In fact, I left the top even before sunset as I wanted some visibility on the scree section at the top before it got dark.  

Descent turned out to be fairly easy.ย  Mostly screeing through the loose dust and rock (scree).

Views on the way down were even better than on the ascent. 

Eventually we had to turn on our headlamps.  I held mine in one hand, finding it easier to direct the beam. 

Exhausted, we had dinner in our tents.  And went to sleep early. 

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Climbing Rinjani, Indonesia – day 3

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Tim posted the BEST 20 photos from our trip in an Instagram story. Scroll through.

7am UP on our final day.  

I actually carried my own tent on this adventure. Air mattresses in the provided tents were not good. ๐Ÿ˜€

The crater rim vistas really are superb. 

The biggest takeaway from this trip for everyone is being impressed with the porters.  Rather than use the more efficient tump system, they balance these loads on one shoulder while doing big step-ups and step-downs.  

They all wear flipflops.  Until they break. 

We were headed down, back to civilization. 

Somewhat slippery โ€” but overall fairly easy. 

We had lunch in a shady forest, monkeys and cows standing by to gobble down what leftovers they could get. 

It was a shock to get to the trailhead.  Noisy motor cycles. 

Perhaps 120 people readying to start.  

Those who sign up for 2 days, 1 night begin and end here close to Sembalun village.  They miss the lake and hotsprings.

It took about an hour to drive back from Sembalun to our start at Senaru village.  We returned rented gear and recovered our luggage left in storage. 

TIPS

  • BEST HIKE is our itinerary (3 days, 2 nights in tent) with an afternoon ascent rather than the crowded, dusty line-up for dawn.  Day 1 is long and hard, however. 
  • WAIT for a good weather forecast, if you can  
  • Green Rinjani looked one of the most professional companies at camp, to me.  Modern tents. Tables and chairs.
  • Grippy and comfortable shoes are the most important piece of gear.  Wear a size larger than normal so your toes arenโ€™t crushed on the descent. 
  • Protection from sun and wind is important.  Sun screen.  I brought a sun hoodie.  
  • Porters provide as much water as you can drink.  
  • I fell about 8 times over the 3 days.  No injuries as I almost always landed on my backpack. 
  • I didnโ€™t bring trekking poles.  And that was a mistake.  Our guide gave me one pole for long down climbs.  
  • Itโ€™s badly littered.  
  • Sanitation standards are low.  No water for washing up.  Not even the expected containers of alcohol gel that Iโ€™ve had on similar trips around the developing world. 

I completely enjoyed Rinjani.  It could hardly have gone any better for our group with the afternoon ascent.  

BUT โž™ Bottom line โž™ I canโ€™t recommend this hike.  Itโ€™s simply too dangerous.  

During the July 2018 Lombok earthquake, multiple climbers and guides were killed by landslides triggered on Rinjaniโ€™s slopes. 

March 2007, seven people died of exposure after illegally scaling the volcano during a ban. 

Be sure to have evacuation insurance, just in case.

Youโ€™ve been warned. 

Trip Report

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Top 10 Hiking Destinations โž™ Dolomites, Italy

High altitude adventure and colourful sunsets.

Wow!

At BestHike we rank all mountain vistas in the world against Paine in Chile, and Fitz Roy in Argentina.

The scenery in the Dolomites may be just as good. And there are far, far more stunning jagged peaks in Italy than in all of South America.

Seceda – Odle mountains.

Many, many Europeans get out hiking during the Summer. Trails are crowded everywhere throughout the Dolomites and the Alps. There’s a great shared sense of community here.

Instant gratification. You can ride chair lifts up to the very tops of some of these peaks. How convenient is that? Almost anyone can find a best hike for themselves in this range.

WW I history in the Dolomites is sobering. German, Austrian and Italian soldiers were stuck digging tunnels through these mountains through several winters. This was the “Front”. Needless to say, far more young men died from the elements and falls than by fire fights. There are reminders of the Great War everywhere.

Here is the home of via ferrata (Italian for “iron road”). (In fact, our next trip to the Dolomites will be dedicated to doing some of the best of those assisted climbing routes.)

photo by Away On The Road

Not everything is perfect in the Dolomites. We prefer the Sierra Nevada mountains in California, overall.

In the Sierras I can put up a tent anywhere I want. Fantastic.

Unfortunately, in the Dolomites you are required to sleep in alpine buildings called Refuges. (Refugios – Italian). Their locations are stunning. Many people love them. But – personally – I prefer my tent over sleeping on the floor. Or in bunk beds.

Happily you can reach almost any place in the Dolomites by day hike. Public transportation in the valleys below is good!

The two regions – the Sierras and the Dolomites – are similar in that everywhere is a best hike.

I do like the food and drink at Refugios. Prices are regulated.

The main reason I had not hiked in Europe in 30yrs is cost. Italy can be expensive.

It’s possible to hike on the cheap. Putting up my tent in a campground in Cortina only cost 9โ‚ฌ (US$12.80) / night in 2009.  Ryan tells us it’s up to 44โ‚ฌ / night summer 2023!

Bread, chocolate, soft cheese and wine are inexpensive. What more do you need?

Dan & Janine Patitucci relocated from California to the Dolomites. A good site in English for inspiration. A partner offers Dolomite hiking and biking tours.

For specific information on how to hike these limestone mountains, check our Dolomites Information page.

Leave a comment if you have your own favourite hike in the Dolomites.

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BestHike โ€“ John Muir Trail, California

John Muir Trail is one of our top 10 hikes in the world.

Click PLAY or watch a 1-minute preview on YouTube.

John Muir Trail

If there’s a hiker’s paradise on earth, it’s the JMT in the Sierra Nevadas.

213 miles without a road. Fantastic weather. 11 high passes. Unbelievable nonstop vistas. And Mt Whitney.

AT A GLANCE

Yosemite map
  • Yosemite, Ansel Adams and John Muir wilderness, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks
  • start in stunning Yosemite, Muir’s “Range of Light”
  • 223mi (360km) to Whitney Portal adding sidetrips to Half Dome, Vermillion Resort and Mt. Whitney 14,505ft (4,421m)
  • 15-21 days recommended
  • carry your own food and tent
  • JMT about 10% the length of the Pacific Crest Trail

Read more on our John Muir Trail information page.

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Fastpacking Ireland’s Wicklow Way

Jeff Pelletier:

The Wicklow Way is the oldest and most long-distance trail in Ireland.

Stretching 130 km through the Wicklow Mountains, it winds through forests, open moorland, glacial valleys, and through its largest national park.

Our journey would take us through some of the most remote and scenic parts of the trail over 3 days, passing old villages, farms, and ancient ruinsโ€”offering a unique glimpse into Irelandโ€™s rural past.

related – WicklowWay.com

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

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Campuhan Ridge Trail, Ubud, Bali

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

The Bukit Campuhan Ridge Trail is super popular with Ubud tourists as you can walk there from almost any accommodation in the city.

I went early and saw very few, other than morning trail runners.

You can continue to the end โ€”ย but I turned back after about 2km when the paved-block track ended โ€” at buildings and roadway.

The trail starts at the evocative Gunung Lebah Temple as you’ll see in the video.

The word โ€œCampuhanโ€ itself means โ€œwhere two rivers meetโ€. You’ll be on a ridge between those rivers. Vistas are mostly overgrown so you don’t actually get to see much water. ๐Ÿ˜€

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

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Lofoten Long Crossing, Norway

Inspired by Cam Honan, I started and soon quit the Long Crossing of the beautiful Lofoten Islands.

For me, the route finding through marshy terrain was slow and difficult. Worst was a risky descent clutching a water pipe and safety ropes.

BUT โ€”ย Floor Denil survived hiking solo. And she had terrible (typical) wind and rain.

She didn’t much complain about the dangerous descent on the water pipe.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

related – The Hiking Life – The Long Crossing of Norwayโ€™s Lofoten Islands

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South America’s BEST Trek?

We’d argue for the Ausangate Circuit in Peru โ€” BUT it has gotten a lot more popular in recent years.

Many would name the Paine treks in Chile.

The newest of the best hikes in South America is the Huemul Route out of ut ofย ย El Chaltรฉn, Argentina.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. Especially if you want something even more adventurous.

Check out Huemul information page.

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Indonesia – Bromo Volcano at Dawn

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles

Iโ€™ve long wanted to get to this famous vista.ย  It didnโ€™t disappoint.ย 

Mount Bromo 2,329 meters (7,641ย ft) is an activeย somma volcano andย Hindu pilgrimage site inย East Java,ย Indonesia.

The name Bromo comes from the Javanese pronunciation ofย Brahma, theย Hindu godย of creation.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Getting there is a wild ride. ย  Almost everyone signs up for a jeep tour.ย  Only these small Toyota Landcruiser Jeeps are allowed up the mountain.

I departed my hostel in Malang City at 12:45am.ย  It was a scary Mad Max ride over dirt tracks before reaching the viewpoint at 3:15am.ย 

They get you there so early in case of road problems.ย  And jeep breakdowns.ย  It happens.ย 

They also hope youโ€™ll rent warm jackets and blankets.ย  Or buy some souvenirs. ย 

Itโ€™s well worth being there at very first light through dawn, in any case.ย  The volcano vista keeps changing.ย  Every photo a possible postcard.ย 

Here are just a few of the dozens I shot.ย 

Itโ€™s crowded!ย  Everyone scrambling for the best position. ย 

The adventurous bushwhack down the hillside looking for more unique framing.ย 

Iโ€™ll never forget Bromo.ย 

From here the jeep takes you down to the smouldering caldera for a crowded, dusty climb up stairs.ย  I was disappointed with this and the sea of sand beneath.ย  There are many better volcanoes to climb in Indonesia.

DETAILS

Of a number of 1, 2, or 3 day options, I ended up doing the most popular โž™ Bromo Sunrise Tour. Very inexpensive at CAD $50 which includes entry fees.

Itinerary:

  • 00:30: Prepare for pick-up from Malang hostel by 4ร—4 Jeep
  • 01:00: Journey to Penanjakan (sunrise viewpoint by jeep).
  • 03:30: Arrive at the viewpoint and wait for sunrise
  • 05:00: Witness the magical sunrise from Penanjakan.
  • 06:30: Drive down to the Bromo crater area.
  • 07:00: Free time exploring the Bromo Crater.
  • 08:30: Visit the Sand Sea area and the Savanna.
  • 09:00: Begin the journey back to Malang.
  • 11:30: Approximate arrival back at the hostel.

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TOP 10 Hiking Towns โž™ ย Namche Bazaar, Nepal

BAD NEWS.  As of April 1, 2023 the Nepal government required that major treks can no longer be done independently.  Hiring a guide is mandatory.  The obvious alternative for independent hikers is the Indian Himalaya.    

UPDATE April 2024. The Everest region refused to enforce mandatory guides. Hikers are doing Base Camp independently.

Every hiker dreams of trekking in the footsteps of Hillary and Norgay. Climbing to Mt. Everest Base Camp Qomolangma (Tibetan), Sagarmฤthฤ (Nepali) should be on your bucket list.

Here is the finest alpine scenery in the world, we reckon.

Namche Bazaar … at 3,440 metres (11,286 ft) … is the main trading center for the Khumbu region with many Nepalese officials, a police check post and a bank. …

Namche has a permanent population of around 800.

Almost everyone trekking in the Khumbu region will visit Namche Bazaar, as it is the gateway to the high Himalaya.

More interesting photos tagged Namche Bazaar.

Want more information? Check WikiTravel – Namche.

Everest Base Camp – Khumbu Ice Fall

Our favourite hike hikes out of Namche are:

โ€ข Everest Base Camp / 3 Passes
โ€ข Everest Base Camp / Kala Pattar
โ€ข Everest Gokyo

Everest seen from Kala Pattar

Many consider the mountain people and Tibetan culture an even bigger highlight than the peaks.

Flapping

Best months are from October to early-December, cold but normally with clear views of the world’s highest mountains.

Spring is also a good time to visit the Everest region, though the skies may be hazy. Some argue that pastures are greener in the Spring.

Check the trip report posted by besthike editor Rick McCharles, Nov. 2009 – Everest Base Camp / 2 Passes

Or start on our Nepal information page.