One of our top 10 hikes in the world, Annapurna in Nepal, has had some negative press in the media:
… It is a shame, then, that by 2012 a road will have been built on this path, destroying this experience and, according to many, placing the last nail in the coffin of what was once the greatest trek on earth. …
hmm …
Are these reports of doom and gloom true?
Andrew Ostrowski sends us some notes from last year:
Oct 2010 when we hiked independently (no guides/porters, 10 kg pack plus water, total ~12 kg/person) the combined Circuit and Sanctuary trek in 21 days, hikers age 58 and 62 years old couple with average hiking experience in Canadian Rockies
electricity or back up system was available in all places, cell phones everywhere and carried by most guides/porters and others in case of emergency, expensive internet is readily available at almost all stops at Annapurna Circuit
padlocks and blankets were always provided
free medical high altitude clinic is daily offered at 3:00 PM in Manang in high season
there was no snow in the first week of Oct 2010 and temperature at Thorung La was around zero when we passed it around 11 AM
trekking independently is very easy, providing you do your homework/planning ahead of time
excellent maps are readily available everywhere, very difficult to get lost on the main trail, trails/lodges were busy
used cost effective UV light for water treatment every day with good results
you can take micro bus(Toyota/Nissan van) from Kathmandu bus station to Besisahar trail head (350 Rupees) and further down on the jeep (500 Rupees) if you wish
you can plan and see the whole trek on Google Earth, GPS tracks are easy to find on the web and plot on Google Earth and hundreds of pictures taken every 100 m are also shown
all gear (poles, back pack, jacket, sleeping bag) except hiking boots was rented in Kathmandu and is readily available from dozens of places, total cost for two person/23 days was 8320 Rupees($110) , all gear survived with no problems
daily cost on the trek for two persons (food + room) was 30 to 35 dollars, with no alcohol drinks, can be more if you order most expensive dishes/drinks
flying back 1/2 hr from Pokhara to Kathmandu is definitely worth ~$60 dollars ticket price vs seven hrs on the bus on busy and poor road
had no high altitude sickness problems, with acclimatization as recommended by guidebook only fatique/slow speed while passing Thorung La, we had to slow down and take 2 diamox pills each to speed up hike at critical ascent
overall great experience with no health or any other problems, lost few lbs
… Although people still circumvent the system, trekkers are now required to hire at least one Nepali staff member (a porter or guide) per group. …
… are not true.
Andrew never heard of any such regulation in 2010. They hiked independently. And they loved the adventure, independently.
besthike.com 
That report was pleasant, but I already know it’s a very nice trek and very easy. I remain very concerned and very unclear about two specific questions:
1) “Guide” requirement enforced? I literally hate “guides”. The purpose of such a requirement is to increase income. They are required on the Inca Trail, which makes it a miserable experience; if enforced, this alone would keep me from ever returning to the A.C.
2) Road – how far up on each side? This is a disaster. The A.C. is definitely one of the worlds great treks, and a road next to it would demote it’s status irrevocably. It’s like building a road down into the Grand Canyon.
Continued clarification of these two issues would be very appreciated.
1.No guide, porter or whatever is required or suggested, as of Oct 2010 when we hiked independently Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary having applied for all permits required
2.As to the road to Jomson, it’s there and all the way to Muktinath with larger trucks, jeeps, bikes, etc. traveling there every 15 minutes or so. This road is in use for quite some time, I guess for some few years now, however it’s often damaged by some mud slides and some sections need to be walked across for a couple of hundred meters over the slides to continue on as was a case with us. Just a week or so before our scary bus ride there was an accident when a jeep with 12 people in it went over the edge and rolled down into the river, all died.
The road on the easter side of Annapurna trek, leading someday to Manang is still under construction and only some easier sections are semi complete, we were stopped a couple of times and needed to wait until rock blasting on the opposite side of the valley was completed before being allowed to continue on.
This proposed road leads over extreme and steep terrain and my guess is it will take another 10-20 years to complete, if ever, not to mention constant rock/mud slides in this area. All work seems to be done by manual labour, no heavy equipment seen around, just blasting/scaling crews were visible.
Thanks, your write up releives me, I’m planning to go in April 2011 and had all the apprehensions on the Road being built, and the number of days to availability of Tea Houses and so on.
Thanks for the inputs.
Which is the right place to take the permit,
Are there any holidays for this office which issues permit?.
Is it worth going to Annapurna Base Camp? How many extra days should one plan?
I got my permit in Kathmandu in 2009. Very fast. Very easy.
If you fly in to that city, I’d say that’s the best place.
Hi,
This is Shaurya from Timberland India. We have been following your blog for some time and we would like to share with you a new activity that we have begun for all the nature lovers and admirers called ‘Timberland Trekker’s Tales’.
Do check out this link to know more about the activity.
http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=153107388086642
You can spread the message by sharing this on your blog too.
Thanks!
Dear, we will go hiking the same trek, I was wondering about the flight back from Pokhara: did you buy it in advance? How much in advance and where did you buy it ?
Thanks a lot for the nice review!!Very helpfull
Sabine
No need to buy that flight ticket in advance, Sabine. But get a travel agent in Nepal to book it for you once you know the EXACT date.
I would suggest you can buy it after muktinath, I think its Jomsom. There are plenty of operators.
Regards
Ananth
I just got back from trekking a section of AC Nayapul – Muktinath – Jomson, as mentioned the road is all the way to Muktinath with buses going as far as Jomson and then by jeep to Muktinath. I noticed that a lot of people are opting to finish the trek or use road transport from Jomson which sems to be an unfortunate consequence of the road. There track is still in good condition from Dana (just after Tatopani if going clockwise around the circuit) to Ghasa which we walked on one of our day’s. We only saw one other group going in the same direction as us and no others going the traditional way (anti-clockwise) however saw quite a few trekkers using the road sadly the guesthouses reflect the downturn in trekkers walking this section. If anyone is reading this researching their trek I strongly recommend you walk this section. If you are doing the trek anti clockwise like most people heading out of Ghase approx 10-15 minutes out of town you will come to a small shop on left hand side of the road just in behind this is the entrance to a large draw bridge that takes you across the Kali Gandaki the track is on the other side quite clear and easy to follw as you are following the river anyway it will take you all the way to Dana Just before Tatopani where another suspension bridge will take you back to the road again. Hopefully this will save you the dust and boredom of trekking this section by road and I’m sure the locals will be grateful to see more trekkers back their way.
Cheers Simon
Thanks Simon.
Perhaps other “alternate trails” will evolve to take walkers further from the road.
Forgot to mention if you are thinking of flying out from Jomson I would book your ticket in advance we bought our tickets on the way up to Muktinath about 4 days in advance and just after all tickets for the day we purchased had sold out. There were a number of dissapointed trekkers in the Sita (Yeti) airline office at Jomson who thought they would get a ticket a day in advance.
Cheers Simon
Everest base camp with Mani Rimdu festival
Mani Rimdu festival is one of the most interesting High Himalayan Buddhist festivals observed every year, usually in November (date fixed by lunar calendar) in Tengboche monastery. It is an old Buddhist monastery located on a ridge top. Mani Rimdu is a colorful festival. This festival depicts the victory of Buddhism over the ancient Bon religion. The monks with elaborate masks and costumes perform series of ritualistic dances.
The monks perform the masked dance, to usher some of the protective deities as manifestation of the legendary saint Guru Rinpoche, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism; the dance numbers also display the defeat of demons and the initiation of Buddhism to Tibet. Thus, Tengboche Monastery and Mani Rimdu are major attractions for tourists in Nepal. The number of tourists visiting the monastery is said to be about 15,000 per year and during peak tourist season the number is said to be 600 per week
Himalayan High Spirits adventures organizes trekking specially for Mani Rimdu festiva since 1998. For this trekking you take a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. After we get down at Lukla airstrip our trekking starts to Phakding, the first overnight place, following Dudha Koshi River. Next day we walk through forest of rhododendron and magnolia and arrive to Namche, that’s a junction for trekkers. We have to stay one more extra day at Namche for acclimatization. On that day we hike to Syangboche, one of the major spot for the view of Mt. Everest, Mount Lhotse, Mount Amadablam, Mount Thamserku, Mount Kwangde etc. Then we walk down to Khumjung village, a typical Sherpa village and overnight stay at mountain lodge in Namche Bazzar. Next day we start our trek towards Tyangboche. We stay Tyangboche four nights for mani rimdu festival. During those days we observe Mani Rimdu festival. Then on 10th day we will be back from Tengboche and follow the same previous route to Lukla.
Itinerary
Day 1.Arrival kathmandu and transfer to hotel/Eevening walk to durbar square
Day2. Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley
Day3. Kathmandu to Lukla by flight and trek to Phakding 2600m
Day4.Phakding to Namache bazzar 3440m
Day5. Namache-rest and day hike
Day6.Namache to Tengboche monastry 3900m
Day7-Wong (blessings)
Day8-Chham (masked dance)
Day9-Jhinsa (Fire offerings)
Day10-Lokpar (destruction of the sand mandala)
(After observing the Manirimdo festival some trekkers continue to them trek to Base camp and some return back down to Lukla)
Day11.Tengboche to Dingboche 4400m
Day12.Dingboche to Laboche 4900m
Day13.Labuche to Gorek shep 5100m.Lunch and explore to Everest base camp
Day14.Gorek shep to Kalapather 5500m in the morning for sunrise view same day trek back to Pheriche 4200m
Day15.Pheriche to Tengboche
Day16.Tengboche to Monjo
Day17.monjo toLukla
Day18. Lukla to Kathmandu by flight and free afternoon.
Day19 shoping and sightseeing
Day20 Departure
Cost: Request
Minimum Group size: Any
Included:
A. Kathmandu airport pick up, medium standard accommodation with attached bathroom(on twin sharing basis), a day guided tour.
B. In trekking, flight from Kathmandu- Lukla-Kathmandu, daily itinerary as described, all inclusive camping or lodge trek with English speaking guide and porters, all meals on trek, tea, all fees and land transportation, coffee and boiled water.
Not Included:
Bottled beverages, tips, items of a personal nature, delay due to weather, rescue flight, equipment failure or situations beyond our control.
Himalayan High Spirits Adventures-Nepal
http://www.highspirits.com.np
High Spirits Adventures-Australia
http://www.highspirits.com.au
Adventures Traveling-Germany
http://www.adventures-traveking.de
Hi
June- Aug is the monsoon season in Nepal.
So it is not advisable to do trekking, is that right?
Early June.
November – December would be too cold? Yet I have read about treks being organised by some UK based companies.
Understand May, and perhaps October are the two best months for the trek up to Everest Base Camp.
What about if I plan to add in the Gokyo Lake in my trip?
Please advise.
Thanks
http://www.superfitandhealthy.com
For Everest and most of the high peaks, there are two recommended seasons.
Personally I like Nov/Dec — clear skies. But cold.
April/May is warmer. But not quite such good weather.