The Annapurna Circuit
The best trekking region in Nepal.
The first reaction of most hikers: “What about Maoist rebels extorting money from trekkers?”
YetiZone is the #1 website on the Circuit. Editor Ian Johnson says:
“No trekkers have been harmed during the conflict – both sides recognise the need for the revenues that tourism brings. Both sides are taxing tourists. You may therefore find that the Maoists may expect you to pay their trekking tax – keep the receipt! There is, in our opinion, no reason for tourists to be concerned about the Maoists.”
When we were there in 1998 the Maoists were sometimes collecting a “tax”. We did not meet any of them. In 2006 the fee seems to have become a little more structured.
If you decide to go, budget for the “extra donation to the Communist Party”.
Many call Annapurna the best hike in the world, by far. It is fantastic!
The entire Circuit is about 300km (186mi), 3 weeks circumambulating the Annapurna massif of peaks. This region is unique in the Himalaya in that it is relatively easy to get up close and personal with two of the world’s highest peaks.
Surprisingly, hiking here is recommended for all levels of ability and experience. Many non-hikers do the entire Circuit.
You can hike independently with a light pack, staying in wonderful mountain “lodges” and eating at wonderful restaurants. Or sign on with any of hundreds of trekking tours or independent porter guides.
There is not a more relaxed long hike anywhere. But if 3 weeks it too long, shorter sections recommended are the Jomsom Trek and Annapurna Base Camp.
Why we love it:
walk from lush sub-tropic to the highest mountains in the world
the surreal light in the arid Trans-Himalayan region
wonderful cultural experiences with the Tibetan and mountain peoples
Buddhist temples, architecture and tradition
wonderful photographic opportunities
Thorung La 5416m (17,769ft) is the highest altitude ever reached by most hikers
very little gear is needed
you can easily get pack weight down to 10kg (22lbs)
walk with no tent, stove or food. Even books are available on the trail.
stay in lodges, eat in lovely restaurants.
it’s safe and easy to hike solo
no need to speak Nepali, only English
food is good and quite safe
Kagbeni, the gateway to Lo (Mustang) is wonderful
a number of hotsprings en route
walking the Kali Gandaki, the world’s "deepest" river valley, 5500 to 6800m lower than the two peaks either side
Considerations:
crossing Thorung La can be a struggle even if you are acclimatized as the air is thin. Bad weather sometimes causes a build-up of hikers on the east side of the pass.
garbage is a problem in some sections
footwear is critical on long hikes where you have no chance for replacement
sunglasses / eye protection needed
this is not a wilderness hike. The Annapurna Circuit is mostly a road! On the other hand, by departing early in the morning, or hiking late during the afternoon, you can get the trail to yourself.
both men and women are advised to wear modest clothing respecting local culture
we treated water with a filter but boiling is even better
"squater" pit toilets are the norm
many hikers run out of money, tempted by pizza, beer, German bakeries and everything else. Almost everyone spends more money than they expect.
evacuation by helicopter costs about $3000, guaranteed in advance
Details on our Annapurna Circuit information page.
Looking for more inspiration? Start with this, the best of a number of coffee table photography books:
A Nepalese Journey: The Essence of the Annapurna Circuit
I’ve seen video of moose diving for particularly succulent plants. And I understand that new born calves can swim immediately to escape predators who sometimes wait on pregnant cows.
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