Nootka Trail trip report

Paul Talbot had some excitement:

I woke up to find a steaming pile of purple bear crap no more than 2 feet from where I had been sleeping….I can only assume that my snoring had put him off coming into our tent!

ClubTread.com – Nootka Trail Hiking Adventure

This is one of their many excellent photos. Low tide sunrise at Skuna Bay.

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Nootka is a coastal hike of 35km (22mi), completely unregulated and, therefore, problematic. It’s on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island.

Nootka Trail – besthike

geotagging photos – cool !

I am liking this new feature on flickr.

First you post a wonderful photo:

Mongolia China Kazakhstan Russia – Where four countries meet.

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original – flickr

Then you add a tag to show where the photo was taken:

geotagging.jpg

Awesome!

Here’s the BIG map of Kit Seeborg’s photos.

By the way, because of this photo I learned that Kit is editor of the WorldChanging website. It looks very interesting. I subscribed to her RSS feed.

This is a great example of how photo sharing can connect people.

hikers rescued by calling 911

Note to self – “remind everyone to bring along their mobile phones”

The 34-year-old had gone hiking on Dec. 24 in East Sooke Regional Park, about 25 kilometres west of Victoria. After losing his way in the heavily wooded area, he called the 911 emergency number on his cellphone. …

The hunt failed to turn up the hiker overnight but searchers continued in the morning and found him at 9:20 a.m. on Dec. 25.

It’s not the only time in the past week that a dying cellphone has been used by someone to facilitate a rescue in British Columbia.

A man trapped by trees in Vancouver’s Stanley Park during recent storms remembered he had a cellphone in his backpack and called rescuers. He had been trapped for six days.

B.C. hiker rescued after 911 call on dying cellphone

(via Hiking News)

best hike in the world NOT on our top 10 is …

The Huayhuash Circuit, Peru

Huayhuash is the best hike this blogger has ever done.

To include it in the top 10, however, is to promote it too lightly.

It’s remote and forbidding. This is where Joe Simpson & Simon Yates climbed Siula Grande in 1985. The book & film Touching the Void were based on that disastrous misadventure.

You need high alpine experience and an excellent guide. People get in trouble in the Huayhuash.

The Circuit is a minimum 140km (87mi) plus numerous sidetrips.

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We spent 11 days with horses carrying our gear. A fantastic experience.

Don’t even think of booking a ticket to Peru without first checking with the experts on the Huayhuash. Start with La Cima Logistics, based in Huaraz, Peru. Then check Peaks and Places.

Why we love it:

  • getting high at Punta Coyoc pass 5490m (18,012ft) !!
  • Peru’s second highest summit, Yerupaja (6634m)
  • non-stop vistas — entire Circuit is above treeline
  • intensely glaciated, intensely beautiful
  • condors and other wild birds
  • fantastic natural hotsprings half way round the Circuit
  • limited road access, few people
  • a trip with pack animals is good value
  • lifetime experience you will never forget

    Considerations:

  • Huayhuash is not a National Park.
  • it is almost completely unpoliced
  • a few hikers are robbed every season
  • best months are May to September
  • many passes over 4600m (15,092ft) will challenge you
  • weather is not nearly as good as in the nearby Cordillera Blanca
  • actually, the weather is terrible
  • prepare for cold & wind. Hypothermia is a risk.
  • no toilets — you should hire a proper toilet tent and shovel
  • toilet tents should be at least 50m from the nearest stream or lake
  • dogs will steal food right out of your tent
  • campsites are badly littered. Carry out your trash.
  • many hikers get lost. Map, compass & guidebooks are essential.
  • May – Sept is spawning season for trout. Do not fish nor buy fish from local herders. The once terrific trout fishing has been decimated.
  • if you like Huayhuash, you would also like Alpamayo and Ausangate in Peru, both easier treks to organize
  • Details on our Huayhuash Circuit information page.

    top10hikes.jpg

    huayhuash.jpg
    larger photo – flickr – craigass

    top 10 hikes in the world

    #1) West Coast Trail, BC, Canada
    #2) John Muir Trail, California, USA
    #3) Tongariro Northern Circuit, New Zealand
    #4) Ausangate Circuit, Peru
    #5) Sunshine to Assiniboine, Alberta, Canada
    #6) Glacier North Circle, Montana, USA
    #7) Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
    #8) Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
    #9) TMB (Tour de Mont Blanc), Europe
    10) Overland Track, Tasmania

    top10hikes

     

    Our highly subjective top 10 for 2006. These are the trekking adventures we feel most likely to “change your life”.

    If you have any opinion (especially if you can recommend a better hike than any of these) leave a comment at the bottom of this post. In fact, we would happily post your own Top 10.

    UPDATE: The “California is the Center of the Outdoor Universe” crowd want John Muir Trail to be #1. (They hint at a bias towards Canadian hikes because besthike is based out of Canadia.)

    #1 best hike in the world is …

    The West Coast Trail

    No surprise. We’ve called the WCT the best hike in the world since 1999.

    Its “a near perfect hiking experience in pristine Canadian wilderness.”

    Variety is the main reason we name West Coast Trail the finest walking adventure anywhere. Many hike it every year. On the “Shipwreck Coast” of Vancouver Island, it’s a thrill ride.

    We’ve never taken more photos on any other trip.

    A coastal hike of 75km (47mi) between Port Renfrew (Gordon River) and Bamfield (Pachena Bay), ideally you want 7 days, 6 nights though many do it in less.

     

    • mystic dawns and mind-blowing sunsets
    • pretty beaches, cool caves, hidden pocket coves, weird cliffs and coastal geology
    • WCT is in a well protected National Park, but access is easy from Victoria or Vancouver
    • it’s challenging — though 99% of those who start (somehow) finish
    • evacuation in case of disaster is efficient
    • thrilling boulder and log walking between Thrasher & Owen Point
    • scrambling up slippery Sandstone Creek
    • playing at Hole in the Wall
    • impossibly situated pretty Tsusiat Falls
    • walking in impressive old growth forest
    • share the trip with whales, sea lions, mink. Maybe bear and cougar. Or even wolves!
    • ship wrecks and other historical artifacts
    • cable cars and ladders can be “fun”
    • campfires below the tide line
    • no biting insects
    • excellent hiking guidebooks available

     

    Considerations:

    The biggest hassle is the quota system which limits the number of people starting each day to 52. You need to be organized months in advance to get your hands on a Trail Permit.

     

    • hikers have died on the West Coast Trail
    • rogue waves and surge channels pose the greatest risks
    • this is not a good hike for those who have never done a long multi-day trip
    • though it gets a little easier each season, it is still tough
    • slippery footing causes almost everyone to fall multiple times
    • few finish this adventure pain-free
    • you must carry your own heavy pack
    • you may need to climb 50 huge ladders
    • miserably exposed, rain and wind is the norm. You need a good tent.
    • can you handle 6 inches of rain in 12 hours?
    • summer highs around 14C (57F)
    • risks of both hypothermia and heat stroke
    • river crossing are normally no problem

     

    Get the details on how to organize to hike it on our West Coast Trail information page.

    West-Coast-Trail

    posing on Kilimanjaro




    Almost there!

    Originally uploaded by sarajanidlo.

    If you weren’t already excited enough about Kili, check this photo op on the way to the summit.

    Nothing like getting above the clouds!

    Thanks (and Merry Christmas) to Tom Mangan. I first saw this on Tom’s Two-Heel Drive hiking blog, one of his Flickr pic o’ the day selections.

    John Muir Trail in 15 days

    Jeffrey Hunter, Southeast Trail Programs Director of the American Hiking Society, did the JMT August 11 – 25 this past summer.

    He recommends August as biting insects are in decline, “water is still plentiful, and the days are long”.

    I can do long days, myself. Having never thru-hiked it, I would try for a fast trip like this. For one thing, it reduces the amount of food I would have to carry on the challenging second half.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Check Jeffrey’s blog: Southern Appalachians Initiative

    kings-canyon-np-on-jmt.jpg
    Kings Canyon National Park – Jeffrey Hunter

    This is just one of his 2006 – The Hiking Year in Pictures series.

    John Muir Trail – more information

    #2 best hike in the world is …

    The John Muir Trail

    You can still walk for 2 or 3 weeks without crossing a road in California.

    This is the best hike in the USA and is the best section of the longer Pacific Crest Trail.

    Indeed, many experts rank this is the best hike in the world. It’s a pilgrimage in honour of John Muir, the man who founded the Sierra Club and helped create Yosemite National Park.

    Start in Muir’s “range of light” with a thrilling scramble of Half Dome. Then hike South 223mi (360km) to Whitney Portal. If you make it, celebrate on the summit of Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48.

    As you must carry your own food and tent, book 21 days for an optimal experience.

    The weather and conditions are usually great — but only Aug through mid-Sept. It is a very short window!

    Of course there are shorter section hikes for all abilities and experience levels.

    Why we love it:

    • crosses Yosemite, Ansel Adams and John Muir wilderness, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks
    • 11 high passes, unbelievable views
    • comparatively moderate and safe walking for a long hike (the scramble up Half Dome being the notable exception)
    • many marvelous waterfalls cascading the huge granite walls of Yosemite
    • the JMT passes through 6 of 7 ecological zones of America
    • you can tent (mostly) where you want. No need to camp near bear boxes.
    • often great weather though afternoon summer thunderstorms are likely
    • Whitney is a beautiful and impressive peak, especially from the summit
    • the warm welcome (and a day off) at Vermillion Resort
    • the Wilderness Permit is free
    • it is easy to solo the JMT but only if you are strong enough to haul your own gear
    • signing the summit register on Whitney is a great culmination to the adventure
    • trying to beat Reinhold Metzger’s record of 5 days 7 Hours 45 minutes without being resupplied

    Considerations:

    • almost everyone starts in Yosemite and hikes to Mt. Whitney
    • water is not a major problem, but it will be dry on the the high passes in August
    • a good water filter is recommended
    • dehydration and heat are more often problems than hypothermia
    • bring a lightweight stove. Fire limitations are in effect usually based on elevation.
    • the smartest bears in the world will be trying to get anything edible or that smells edible
    • Marmots will eat anything and may chew through your pack.
    • mosquitos are a slight problem early in the season though wasps, late in the season, are more painful
    • snakes live there but are usually not a nuisance
    • altitude sickness is a big worry, if you opt to start at Whitney
    • some river crossings may be a concern early in the season. Hiking poles an advantage.
    • Most hikers prefer sturdy footwear on this trek. A second pair of footwear recommended.
    • bears are a concern. Do not hike alone at night.

    Details on our John Muir Trail information page.

    Whitney

    #3 best hike in the world is …

    Tongariro Northern Circuit

    Our favourite hike in New Zealand.

    A fantastic volcanic adventure!

    Most trampers do only the Tongariro Crossing, one of the most popular day hikes in the world. That’s a shame. The Northern Circuit includes the Crossing and is a far richer experience.

    The entire Circuit is 34+km (19+mi) mostly bizarre volcanic & desert scenery. The energetic hiker can sidetrip a volcano or two. Three days, two nights is perfect.

    It’s accessible for all levels of hiking ability and fitness. (In fact, we met an elderly Kiwi couple who do the Circuit as a day hike once every year.)

    The maximum elevation at Red Crater 1886m (6188ft) means there is no risk of altitude sickness. Some hike the Circuit year round, though Dec – Mar are the best months.

    Happily, no reservation is required for huts! They are first-come, first-served. If you carry a tent there is no worry about the hut being full when you arrive. Tenters can still use all the hut facilities.

    Why we love it:

    • circumambulate active volcano Mt. Ngauruhoe
    • boiling mud pools, fumaroles and craters!
    • weird lava features, unique volcanic colours
    • this park attracts over a quarter million trampers a year but most of the circuit is not over-crowded
    • astonishing water-filled explosion craters called the Emerald Lakes
    • Blue Lake (an old volcanic vent)
    • manditory easy sidetrip to the top of Mount Tongariro 1967m
    • difficuly, lengthy sidetrip scramble to the top of Mt. Ngauruhoe 2287m, an active volcano. You know it as Mt. Doom in Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings.
    • scrambling huge volcanic formations in the Oturere valley
    • the Tongariro reserve is a World Heritage Site
    • New Zealand has the best hostels in the world
    • the Maori cultural and spiritual associations
    • the bleak, harsh volcanic landscape
    • well signed, easy-to-follow trail
    • the alpine huts are good: beds, mattresses, gas heating, gas stoves, water, and toilet facilities (during the main hiking season)

    Considerations:

    • on a busy day you will see hikers like ants on the Devil’s Staircase near the start
    • many day hikers are under-dressed, under-prepared. You may be called upon for First Aid.
    • strong wind & poor visibility may ruin this hike. Delay until another day, if possible.
    • weather changes quickly. Be prepared for rain or even snow.
    • carry enough warm clothing
    • the few water sources on the trail all require treatment
    • the ozone layer is thin. Use good-quality sunglasses, sun screen and wear a hat.
    • sturdy shoes for rocky and uneven tracks advised
    • howling winds atop Ngauruhoe even when it is calm below
    • if you are climbing Ngauruhoe, consider bringing good boots and gaiters for the dangerous scree. The slope is filled with ankle-turning-sized rocks.
    • off season, ice axe and crampons may be needed
    • catch an early bird shuttle if you want to beat the crowds

    Details on our Tongariro Northern Circuit information page.

    Photo from the excellent trip report by Benjamin Jones.