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Overland Track, Tasmania – trip report

Rick McCharles

We named Overland one of the top 10 hikes in the world for good reason.

It’s one of the best walking adventures anywhere.

I could not have been more excited to get started when I arrived in Hobart. I immediately purchased the best guidebook (Chapman) and a map.

Transportation to and from the trailheads is provided by Tassielink bus. An early morning departure would get me to the trailhead and started same day.

This is me trying to hitch a ride after being forgotten by the bus driver en route.

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Apparently I was the first passenger left behind in 7 years.

Not an auspicious start to the hike.

The bus company rerouted me overnight, arranging a bed at a popular backpacker’s hostel. There my chicken lunch for the next day was stolen from the communal fridge — the first time I have ever had anything taken from hostel or campground.

Yeesh.

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Next morning another Tassielink bus arrived at 5:30AM.

But this time things went smoothly and I was delivered to the Cradle trailhead without a glitch. The weather was perfect.

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First priority was to scramble Cradle Mountain, the most photogenic peak in Tasmania.

I had seen many photos of the Overland Track, but the reality was far, far better. Unique, stunning scenery.

The infamous wet, stormy weather … seems to be a fabrication. Hard to believe it can snow here any day of the year.

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One of the best reasons to travel to Australia for hiking is the fantastic, diverse animal life. Friendly wallabies hang out at every hut.

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Much of the talk on the trail is deciding which sidetrip peaks to climb. Decisions are based mainly on weather. (No use climbing up into the clouds.)

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Hikers have the choice to tent … or stay in loud, crowded, smelly huts. (Bring your earplugs if you decide on the huts.)

Since the weather stayed clear, I tented every night.

And when the weather is good this hike is fairly easy. It even provides the most modern solar composting toilets.

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And the Overland Track continues to get more accessible for more hikers as muddy sections are covered with boardwalk.

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Certainly the Overland Track is one of the best hikes of my life. If you want to organize a trip there check our Overland information page.

Check flickr to see all photos from this trip annotated in full resolution

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climbing Aconcagua independently

What does it take to climb the highest peak outside Asia independently?

It took the Pfluegl brothers 2 years of passion, dedication and commitment.

It cost them about US$5000 each.

But how did they feel on summit day?

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Pfluegl brothers Dec. 27th, 2006

To “climb” Aconcagua they trekked 22 days, 70km (43mi) return with pack weights of up to 42kg (92lbs)!

For details positively Teutonic, check the trip report by Manfred Pfluegl.

More information on trekking (not climbing) Aconcagua. – besthike.com

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best bear-proof food container?

There are a number of bear canisters on the market. Be aware that the list of “approved” canisters changes. For the latest information on bear canisters approved by the National Park Service</a.

For tips on how to pack your canister, read The Care and Feeding of Your Bear Canister by Tom Reynolds.

Pacific Crest Trail Association – Bears

Cramming 18 pounds of food into a canister may, at first, seem impossible. However, following these instructions and a little planning and patience will accomplish the task.

source – Tom Reynolds

I am most interested in the “Ursack”, myself. (I could have used one in Australia to keep out pesky possums.)

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West Coast Trail storm damage

The trail we named “best hike in the world” usually opens May 1. As this is the 100 year anniversary of founding, celebrations were planned. But the WCT opening may be delayed — a suspension bridge is missing and two cable-car crossings are out.

The West Coast Trail is one of North America’s best-known and most challenging wilderness treks, but the storm has left it impassible, at least until repair work can be done.

An estimated 2,000 trees are down in the park, one footbridge has been destroyed and three of the five hand-operated cable cars that allow hikers to pass over streams and ravines are out of service.

“It was unbelievable,” Mr. Brand said, recalling the Dec. 11 storm. “We had trees coming down everywhere. The sea was like a giant washing machine. . . . I think the problem was not just the wind, but the gusts. It went from 60 knots to 100 knots in a microsecond.”

STORM DAMAGE: B.C.’s trail of destruction – Globe and Mail

Happily, the Canadian federal government said it will pay for part of the cleanup.

West Coast Trail – besthike information page

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hiking to Rainbow Bridge, Arizona

After doing some research, I opted not to do it — yet. Organizing to hike Paria Canyon was easier.

The best of several options, I thought, was to hike in to Rainbow Bridge, then catch a tourist boat back to Wahweap marina near Page, Arizona. (about US$55)

If you can find transport to the trailhead early in the morning this one-day, light-weight hike is feasible. The hike in is via either of 2 foot trails: from Navajo Mountain Trading Post, 14mi (26km), or from abandoned Rainbow Lodge, 13mi (24km). Details on GORP.

A longer alternative is the Rainbow Bridge Trail: a 28mi circuit from and back to Rainbow Bridge. You would boat both ways and spend some quality time close to the spiritual monument.

Any hiking longer than the tourist 90min tour requires you get a Navajo Nation backcountry permit.

While at 275ft (84m) long and 290ft (88m) high it’s neither the highest nor the longest arch / bridge in the world, Rainbow is certainly the most famous.

I’d love to see it … someday.

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Rainbow Bridge National Monument – Wikipedia

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aerial photography of the Andes

Washington Post Staff Writer Marie Arana got the chance to fly over the second highest mountain range in the world.

What a stroke of luck! Or is it?

Bobby Haas, a seasoned aerial photographer, was on the seventh leg of a year-long project to take bird’s-eye views of all of Latin America for a lavish volume to be released in September.

When, in e-mail correspondence with him, I casually expressed an interest in seeing the mountains of Peru from that vantage, he invited me to go along. Now, I’m no high-risk adventurer and actually prefer the comforts of a good tub to the rigors of the road …

Winging It in the Andes of Peru – washingtonpost.com

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Katadyn Combi water filter – trashed

katadyn_combi.jpgI tried.

I tried to embrace the highly touted Katadyn Combi water filter.

But it is simply too “fussy”.

Something always goes wrong with this filter. It won’t pump. It won’t open. It needs cleaned too often.

I give up.

Many like the Combi, but I agree with this review:

I bought this because of its flow capacity, the dual filtering through carbon and ceramic elements, and its rugged appearance. I have taken it on three heavy-duty backpacking trips into the Adirondaks and the Laurentians of Quebec. The filter was quickly clogged by the dark waters in these regions. I was constantly scrubbing the ceramic element. Replacement elements are quite expensive. On the trail, its weight becomes noticeable. The casing of mine eventually broke. Maybe it works well on the kitchen tap, but it’s too expensive, too heavy, too much work, and not tough enough for the wilderness. I believe there are better values available.

rkylepalmer from Cranbury, NJ, USA – on OutdoorReview.com

Just bought a SweetWater – Microfilter on the advice of a local expert.

I’ll report back on how well it works after my next major hike.

SweetWater - Microfilter

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alternative trails to Machu Picchu

Not a bad article on Inca Trail Trek to Machu Pichu in the New York Times:

As it runs through craggy mountain passes and ancient Incan ruins, the fabled Inca Trail in Peru reveals surprise after surprise to travelers hiking its length to the lost city of Machu Picchu. But here’s a new one: To set foot on that fabled Andean footpath, you’ve first got to fight through a three-month waiting list. …

A few years ago, the Inca Trail was becoming the Long Island Expressway of central Peru, brimming with trash, tourists and growing concerns about overuse. So the Peruvian government began enforcing strict limits on the number of people allowed on the trail. Right now, only 500 people a day may enter — about 200 tourists and 300 guides and porters.

And so, “alternative” Inca Trails are gaining popularity with travelers unable or unwilling to book a slot three to six months in advance. These treks can be booked a day or two in advance and can cost less than half as much as a hike on the Inca Trail.

Taking the Back Roads to Machu Picchu – New York Times

We agree that most serious hikers would prefer one of the alternatives to the Inca Trail.

The standard is Salcantay which was good when we did it in 2004, but is degrading rapidly. And now also regulated.

Far better and far more difficult is Choquiquirao to Machu Picchu. Hurry on that adventure, however. Peruvian officials are already looking at it.

At besthike we have high hopes for Bolivia. Trekking there is as yet very little developed due to government instability. But one day …

Check our full list of the best hikes in South America.

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day 2 – Choquequirao to Machu Picchu – Zusk’s trip report

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heli-hiking Berg / Robson in Canada

One of the best hikes in the Canadian Rockies is Berg Lake / Mt. Robson.

Of many highlights, getting a shower under majestic Emperor Falls is special. I’d actually never heard of these Falls before I hiked Mt. Robson. The are the most impressive Falls in Western Canada.

Heli-hiking is the best way to do Robson. A chopper is available twice a week to deliver you to Berg Lake. From there you want 3 days to explore the high alpine and another day to walk out.

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Olivier George – Berg Lake from the Mumm Basin trail – Wikipedia