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September 9, 2009September 2, 2009

hike Chalamain gap and the Lairig Ghru, Scotland

Love these Scottish place names!

This lesser known hike turned out to be my personal favourite in Scotland.

An energetic walk over a low pass into one of the wildest and most spectacular glens in Scotland …

the Lairig Ghru is widely regarded as the finest mountain pass in Scotland. …

Traditionally, people walked the full 28mi (45km) from Aviemore to Braemar … The walk described here is a day’s outing from just south of Glenmore, through dramatic Chalamain Gap and up to the top of Lairig Ghru then back to Coylumbridge through Rothiemurchus pine woods.

14mi (22.5km)

Lonely Planet Walking in Scotland

Actually, I only did this hike because I was turned back on my attempt to climb Ben Macdui.

The weather alternated between storm and sunshine.

Here was the prettiest purple heather I saw anywhere in Scotland.

But what I most liked about this hike was that I was not much bothered by midges at my two pretty tent camps.

more photos from this hike

September 8, 2009September 2, 2009

attempt to climb Ben Macdui FAIL

The midges of Glen Nevis convinced me to quit the western highlands. And forego the western islands. (sob)

Furious scrutiny of my guide book led me to decide, instead, on the Cairngorms. Perhaps a climb of the second highest mountain in Scotland, Ben Macdui (1309m).

That would make me a right Munro bagger … since I’d already stolled up Ben Nevis with my hands in my pockets.

Scottish hill walking parlance:

• Munros = 3000ft+
• Corbetts = 2500ft+
• Grahams = 2000ft+

Lonely Planet Hiking in Scotland recommends a route they call Cairn Gorm High Circuit … with a side trip climb to the top of Ben Macdui.

The basic circuit is 7.5mi (12km). The much more difficult scramble to the summit is 5mi (8km) return.

Here’s the easier Cairngorm summit. On a good day.

I was first up to the summit of Cairn Gorm. Dense cloud. Howling winds. … What a contrast from Ben Nevis!

I could only barely see the highest cairn.

Weather is everything in Scotland. I was forced to descend to the controversial new funicular complex. It wasn’t open yet for the day. I had to sweet talk one of the employees in order to be allowed entrance.

Ben Macdui will have to wait.

At the bottom I asked the Ranger (the first National Park Ranger I’d seen in Europe) the wind speed. He confidently estimated 50-60 MPH.

The only higher winds I’d experienced were at Paine in Patagonia, the day backpack covers blew off and flew away like Helium balloons. And the unforgettable day I attempted Mt St Helen in Washington State. I was crawling boulder to boulder on that one. Could not stand up.

The Ranger was not at all interested. At that spot was recorded the “greatest British wind speed 150 knots (170 mph or 274 kmh) on 20 March 1986”.

Here’s how it was blowing for me after I descended down into just a lively breeze.

Click PLAY or watch me hiking Scotland on YouTube.

Midges were not a problem!

September 7, 2009September 1, 2009

Mt Everest of Scotland – Ben Nevis

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Ben Nevis (1344m) is the highest mountain in Britain, the trailhead near sea level.

Over 100,000 attempt it every year making it perhaps the most climbed “famous” summit in the world.

Needless to say, many of those have hardly any walking experience.

I was there on one of the finest days of the year. Thousands of people made the top. Some in Crocs. Tiny children in thin coats. Extended families. Elderly couples. They were very, very lucky.

The top of the big Ben is cloud shrouded 6 days out of every 7. But not today.

At the summit it was cold and windy. I felt I was the only one on top with warm enough clothing. (3 under layers, full hooded down jacket, Gortex shell)

The temperature is normally 9C (48F) colder at the top than the base. Not counting wind chill.

Via the standard tourist route, the Pony Track:

9mi (14.5km)

I went for speed making it up in just over 2hrs, walking. Nobody passed me on the climb, not even the trail runners who walked up, ran down.

Each year a race up-and-down is held in September.

1hr 25min 34sec (mens record)

1hr 43min 25sec (ladies record)

See my 30 photos of this most excellent climb.

September 6, 2009September 1, 2009

not recommended – West Highland Way, Scotland

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

I flew into Scotland on a Thursday.

Friday I hopped the train directly to what most consider the best multi-day hike in Scotland, the West Highland Way.

… The West Highland Way, from Milngavie to Fort William, a distance of 95 miles … Hills, dense woodland and wildlife make it one of the favourites with hikers from all over the world. …

Scotland Welcomes You

This kind of hyperbole is typical of the WHW.

I was quickly disgruntled.

Unless you are a Glasweigan bent on bragging rights for walking out the pub door all the way to the top of Ben Nevis, I can’t see any reason to spend a week of your life doing this hike.

Problems:

• midges (Spring and Summer)

• bad weather

• many sections walking on roadways

• litter

• inconsistent signage

• inconsistent trail maintenance

• too few highlights / km

You won’t get lost. The trail is blazed.

But why spend a week on this route when there are so many better hikes in Scotland? And the world.

As many guidebooks recommend, I skipped the first two days and started at Balmaha. On the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.

That section alongside the lake was OK, especially between Rowardennan and Beinglass Farm. Not one of the great walks of the world, but OK.

From there to King’s House Hotel was disappointing in many ways.

But I must admit, the torrential rain from King’s House over Devil’s Staircase was the quintessential Scottish Hill Walking Experience. Even the Scots called it a “heavy rain”. High praise. My most lasting memory.

Next day the forecast was for clear skies. I hopped a bus at Kinlochleven, giving up on the WHW for good. I wanted good weather to climb Ben Nevis.

Over the 3 days on the West Highland Way I have only 22 photos worthy of posting. That’s sad.

I love Scotland. But why is the hiking so unimproved there?

Why was the first National Park not established until 2002?

That famed son of Scotland, John Muir, must be rolling in his grave. Authorities are trying to promote a John Muir Way, a 73km coastal walk.

As Lonely Planet Walking in Scotland says:

… you can’t help but wonder what Muir would think of a path through two power stations, one of them nuclear …

He would not be amused.

Walk the John Muir Trail in California. Not the one in Scotland.

And don’t make a special trip to hike the West Highland Way. Instead, go to … Spain.

September 5, 2009September 1, 2009

not so Bravehearted in Scotland – MIDGES

by site editor Rick McCharles

Most who have never visited Scotland mainly know the country because of the 1995 Academy-award winning historical action-drama film produced and directed by Mel Gibson, Braveheart.

Mel-Braveheart

Scotland was right irked at the time when Mel and crew decided to move most of the movie shoot to … Ireland.

… Ireland had won by offering a whole basket of measures, including use of the Irish army as extras in battle scenes …

That’s the official story. But a Scottish bus driver who was working during some of the Scottish shoot told me that Mel and the crew could not work outdoors in Scotland … because of MIDGES.

What are MIDGES ??

Click PLAY or watch Scotland’s most ferocious predator on YouTube.

There’s even a Scottish Midge Forecast website.

map

By a terrible coincidence, most of the best hiking in Scotland is in Midge country, the rugged highlands and islands.

For example, one story out of LP Walking in Scotland from the best coastal hike, Cape Wrath:

… We lit the stove for a brew but, within a minute, were reduced to futile, flailing anguish as the black clouds of voracious insects swarmed upon us – even into our mouths. …”

I finally decided to give up on Scotland hiking while attempting the excellent Ring of Steall loop. At the trailhead I saw many of the Scot hikers coming off the trail with mosquito net hats. As you’ll see in the video, I did not have one with me.

Click PLAY or watch me on YouTube.

I’m not Bravehearted enough to face the midges.

They aren’t as bad as the sand flies of western South Island New Zealand, but they are too much for me.

One survey found that 86% of visitors warn their friends not to visit Scotland during the key summer months of July and August. Actually, Scotland is no problem in the summer, so long as you don’t stop moving. The cities are fine. But I’d warn everyone not to hike Scotland between June and September, unless you are much tougher than I.

•midge facts

• How do midges hunt?

September 4, 2009September 1, 2009

Laugavegur Tour, Iceland

After many, many hours trying to find a good deal on airfare. And rent-a-car. I finally gave up on trying to hike the island nation this summer.

I’ll start months in advance next time. And travel off-season.

Here’s what I missed …

… Arguably the most famous hiking tour in Iceland is the Laugavegur Tour. Traditionally done north to south, the trek begins at a drop off point called Landmannalaugar. This tiny launch pad is a destination in its own right, in fact I would argue that it is the single most beautiful place I have ever been.

The area consists of one small hut (sleeps 80), a large campground for trekkers, a small building with sinks, toilets and showers, a covered eating area, an old school bus turned store, and the most coveted of all… a large natural hot spring that serves as swimming pool, meeting place, bath, warming room and of course bar. …

read the trip report on DolomiteSport – Iceland Laugavegur Tour (Aug. 2009)

Check out the PatitucciPhoto Iceland Trekking Photos for inspiration.

I’ve not found a good hiking guidebook for this trek, certainly one of the World’s best.

September 3, 2009September 3, 2018

hiking Jungfrau, Switzerland – day 3

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | 2 | 3

Jungfrau hike – day 3

Descending into Lauterbrunnen valley was amazing. It’s (obviously) a valley of waterfalls, the most famous of which is Trummelbach.

My goal for the day … and for the past 20yrs or so … was carless, careless Gimmelwald. (Not to be confused with Grindelwald.)

“… Once a secret bolthole for hikers and adventurers looking to escape the region’s worst tourist excesses, tiny Gimmelwald is seeing a lot more foot traffic these days. But even even increasing crowds can’t diminish the scintillating … Swiss scenery and charm. …”

The views from there and nearby Mürren are AMAZING.

Sadly, I was too energetic and excited to stay a night or two at Mountain hostel in Gimmelwald. Or at Esther’s Guesthouse next door. I wish I had.

The weather was perfect yet again so I decided to push on, perhaps climb up to Schilthorn 2970m.

Guidebooks say the view from this is even better than that from the TOP OF EUROPE … though it’s a much less expensive ride up. Free if you walk up to Schilthorn.

You’ve seen Schilthorn. It was used in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.

I climbed without my pack up only to the second last station, Brig. What a view!

Then descended quickly so I’d have a chance to make it over the next high pass before nightfall.

It was a beautiful walk in the late day alpine light.

I did manage to clear the next pass, Sefinenfurgge, just at dusk. Not having a proper guidebook, it was a big surprise to find these stairs on the other side.

This valley most visitors to the Jungfrau region never see. It’s more precious for being less travelled.

Click through to see all my photos from day 3

This is the highlight section of what some call the Alpine Pass Route (20 days):

Over the Grosse Scheidegg to Grindelwald

Over the Kleine Scheidegg to Lauterbrunnen

Over the Sefinenfurgge to Griesalp

Over the Hohtürli to Kandersteg

Guidebook – Cicerone Alpine Pass Route, Switzerland, Europe – A Trekker’s Guide. Once again, by Kev Reynolds.

This was my last major hike in the Alps. I headed next to Scotland.

day 1 | 2 | 3

September 2, 2009September 3, 2018

hiking Jungfrau, Switzerland – day 2

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | 2 | 3

Jungfrau hike – day 2

By coincidence, I was in Grindelwald the same time as the annual Eiger Bike Challenge. In fact, I hung out at the main tent two days running.

Hikers, the train and the cycle race all climbed from from the valley to Klein Scheidegg.

Most cyclists had to walk some sections. Fitness and ability level was mixed at this race. Certainly I would have been tempted to rent a bike and join in had I had arrived one day earlier.

My goal. The hotel at Kleine Scheidegg. I remembered the description well from reading The Eiger Sanction 20yrs before. I bought it as an audio download and enjoyed it again on my iPod during this hike.

The train from here to Jungfraujoch 3454m “TOP OF EUROPE” is super expensive. I asked several times if there was somehow I could hike up there instead. … Not without ice climbing equipment, unfortunately.

The short climb up to the glacial moraine was as high as I got, sadly.

There’s a feature there I’d never seen before. Benches in water where you can rinse your feet. It even has a bubbler.

By nightfall I found a fantastic place to put up my tent, on a cliff edge overlooking the lovely, tranquil Lauterbrunnen valley.

That evening when I was cooking supper an Italian hiker stopped by. He and his fiance were doing a long through hike through the Alps. Had been on the trail for a couple of months.

see all my photos from day 2

day 1 | 2 | 3

September 1, 2009September 4, 2018

BestHike Eiger Sanctioned

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

day 1 | 2 | 3

Jungfrau hike – day 1

After completing the High Route in the Alps, what other destination there could not possibly be a let down?

Eiger North Face, of course.

The Eiger Sanction is a 1972 thriller novel by Rodney William Whitaker, written under the pseudonym Trevanian. The story was made into a film directed by and starring Clint Eastwood in 1975.

Click PLAY or watch the trailer to Eiger Sanction on YouTube.

youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tFxmcIrJBU

Travanian (one of my favourite authors) thought the film vapid, by the way. The book is better.

Actually, because of the movie, the Eiger is more famous than dangerous. Just around the corner is the much more difficult Black Monk face.

“Dominated by the famous Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Virgin) … the Jungfrau Region boasts the highest density of dramatic scenery. …”

Over the next 3 days I hiked left to right across the face of the Eiger.

It’s a scenic train journey just getting to Interlaken, the “adventure capital” of Europe. Many Jungfrau hikers base themselves out of this busy tourist trap, but I’d recommend you buy provisions at the huge super market across from the station, and catch the next train up to start at Grindelwald.

Early in my trip a Swiss hiker from Bern had recommended a route, jotting it down in my note book. Since I could not easily get my hands on either of the guidebooks I wanted in Grindelwald …

• The Bernese Alps by Kev Reynolds

• Tour of the Jungfrau Region by Kev Reynolds

… I decided to follow her suggestion using only tourist brochure maps. It turned out to be excellent.

I started by walking up to a ski chalet appropriately named “First” … Here’s the vista.

The Jungfrau region was everything I hoped it would be.

There are supposed to be 90km of signed hiking trails (and roads) about this resort. Intriguingly, for Switzerland, 48km of those are supposed to be hikeable year round.

I stayed up high so long that I actually did not get back to my tent until well after dark, getting lost on the way down. I needed my headlamp to find where I had stashed my pack.

I tucked into the trees discretely above Grindelwald. “Wild camping” is legal in Switzerland, but it’s best not to draw attention to yourself.

all my photos from day 1

day 1 | 2 | 3

August 31, 2009September 2, 2009

great U.K. outdoor photos

Alan (tall-guy) is a photographer from York, England.

Check out his top 50 as favourited by flickr users. There are many excellent waterfall time release pics. Most are from North Yorkshire.

Alan’s work was recommended to me by Stuart of the excellent trailspotting blog. Stuart adds:

Alan’s stomping grounds include most of Yorkshire, Northumberland and the Lake District in Cumbria. All of which are excellent places if you’re looking for hiking spots in England.