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Everest trek – day 4

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

Acclimatization day trekking around Namche Bazaar.

Gorgeous.

I was there for the famed Saturday Market. Cheap goods from China were being hawked by colourful Tibetan traders in the main market ground.

… But it seemed to me that there was no difference between Saturday and every other day of the week. The Tibetans were camped out semi-permanently while I was there. (They did a lot of drinking on the Friday night.)

A secondary local market was open Saturday morning, mainly Nepalis selling food stuffs.

I toured fascinating Namche town first. The small Buddhist gompa is lovely.

Next I did an acclimatization hike called Sherpa Villages of Khumbu. (4hrs)

It started with an off-trail scramble up to the quarries of Zarok. Weird and beautiful.

I was keen to see the seldom used airfield above town built specifically for the ill-fated Everest View Hotel. This Japanese project proposed to fly guests into this airstrip at 3800m directly from Kathmandu, using pressurised rooms and piped oxygen to combat altitude sickness. The Hotel was open, but I didn’t see many guests.

Surprisingly, a plane flew in to the Shyangboche airstrip. It unloaded everything, even the wings.

Climbing over a ridge I came upon one of the cleanest, best organized villages in the Khumbu.

Khunde and neighbouring Khumjung were by far the least littered towns I saw. Perhaps it’s the influence of Sir Edmund’s school.

All-in-all this rest day was one of the very best of the entire trip.

all photos from day 4

… on to day 5

days: 1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12-13|14|15|16|17| info page

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trek Choquequirao, Peru – $140

The “new” Machu Picchu is steadily getting developed.

This “lost city” fascinated 19th century explorers, and Hiram Bingham visited it two years before he discovered Machu Picchu. Difficult to reach, the ruins are rarely visited by travellers.

The southern approach to Choquequirao from Cachora requires a steep descent from almost 3200 metres down to the Apurímac river at 1200 metres, followed by an even steeper ascent up to the ruins. The site is perched a magnificent 1150 metres above the Apurímac, surrounded by densely-forested mountain slopes in the shadow of the huge, snowcapped Salkantay massif. In recent years, the ruins have been partially-cleared by Peruvian archaeologists, and can be easily explored by those intrepid enough to undertake the demanding trek required to get there. …

Check out a great looking site (English and Spanish) with a great domain name … ChoquequiraoTrail.com.

They have a tempting offer for a guided hike. Click through to see it.

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Everest trek – day 3

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

To Namche Bazaar.

After 2 days sick, I finally felt great. Ready to make a push up to storied Namche 3,440m (11,286 ft).

First stop was the office of Sagarmatha National Park.

Here you must sign-in if you are hiking independently, showing your TIMS (Trekking Information Management System) card. And also your (US$13.50) Park entry fee.

IMGA0734.JPG

I got mine in Kathmandu in advance. But you could get both at the Park entrance, as well. (So long as you remembered to bring 2 passport size photos with you.)

At the Park entrance begins a series of suspension bridges, the topography much more rugged.

It was explained to me that the Maoists never have bothered trekkers much in the Everest region because this one entrance can be so easily policed.

This section of the trail is crowded and dusty. Best not cross a bridge if you see pack animals coming from the other direction.

Actually, the porters can knock you to the ground, as well. They have limited visibility.

Despite bridge delays, I was psyched to get to Namche. And it did not disappoint. One of the great hiker’s towns in the world.

Here’s the vista from my $3 room.

Finally I felt I was on the way to Mt. Everest. Namche is “the gateway to the high Himalaya”.

This is why I had come to Nepal.

all photos from Everest trek – day 3

… on to day 4

days: 1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12-13|14|15|16|17| info page

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Everest trek – day 2

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

Is it safe to trek independently in Nepal?

Is it safe to trek solo in Nepal?

Yes. And yes.

On the other hand, while I was there posters were up for a missing Russian trekker. And a missing Chinese trekker.

The majority of hikers in the Everest region hire a guide, porter(s) and/or pack animals.

group tent camp

But there are many, many hiking independently. And solo. I feel Nepal is one of the safest places to hike solo anywhere in the world. I met many women traveling solo.

The trails are packed with people! It’s difficult to ever find yourself alone on a trail.

Certainly independent hikers are experienced. They know what they are doing. Have proper gear. And carry a good guidebook.

… No independent hiker takes a suitcase with wheels to Mt. Everest.

Still feeling fatigued, I didn’t go far day 2. I set up camp early afternoon on a sand bank on a side stream, the Monjo Khola. And enjoyed a day hike up the side valley away from the crowds on the main trail. A rough trail leads to Kusum Kangru base camp, the most difficult of the Nepal trekking peaks.

It was an early night reading the one novel I carried up to the mountains. (And later listening to audio books on my two iPods.)

By late evening my stomach was feeling better. I was getting acclimatized.

all photos from Everest trek – day 2

… on to day 3

days: 1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12-13|14|15|16|17| info page

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Everest trek – day 1

Trip report by site editor Rick McCharles.

I’ll post a photo trip report of my superb 17 day trek in the Everest region of Nepal, over the next 17 days.

The highlight of the day was flying in to Lukla Airport 9,380ft (2,860m), officially named Tenzing-Hillary Airport since 2008.

That landing is enough to get your heart rate up above 200.

The safety statistics are comparatively good for a short takeoff runway. Comparatively good means planes have only crashed 3 times recently, 1991, 2004 and 2008. Everyone was killed except for the pilot in 2008.

(Actually, the taxi ride from Kathmandu to the Airport is likely statistically more dangerous.)

Immediately the mountain views are stunning. Is that Everest?

The mantra out of Lukla is SLOWLY, SLOWLY. It takes some time to acclimatize to the 2800m elevation. We did not walk far day 1.

This elevation is still surprisingly warm and lush considering the date, Nov. 11th, 2009.

A group of us hiking independently (no guide, no porters) stayed together until the village of Phakding. I checked into a room (less than $1 / night) and crashed for the evening without dinner.

I was altitude sick … complicating my KathmanFlu.

more photos from Everest trek – day 1

… on to day 2

days: 1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12-13|14|15|16|17| info page

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hiking the mountains of Iran

When flying over the country recently I studied for almost an hour the impressive mountains of Iran. Big and mostly empty of people.

Alborz Mountain Range, Caspian Sea

That image by Views of the Earth is posted on an excellent website called Iran Nature.

All useful information you need to visit Iran natural and historical attractions and landscapes. Hiking & trekking Iran nature and ecosystem, Iran mountain, valley, and cave, Iran forest and garden, Iran plain and desert, Iran lake, river, spring, and waterfall, Iran protected and wildlife zone, Iran island.

The most popular adventure in Iran is climbing Mount Damavand, the highest peak 5671m (18,605ft). It’s near Tehran.

Personally I’m more interested in hiking opportunities. But I cannot find much information on the web. Leave a comment if you have any advice about trekking in Iran.

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has many problems these days. Too many problems to think much about the 3 American hikers who entered Iran illegally, accidentally, from Iraq.

He did say that he hopes the punishment dealt out by the Iranian judge is not too severe.

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Climbing the Mountains of Indonesia

Daniel Patrick Quinn wrote to let us know about a new website called Gunung Bagging – Climbing the Mountains of Indonesia.

Two English expats have recently compiled a list of all the mountain and volcano peaks in Indonesia with a prominence of 1000 metres or more.

Thanks to huge advancements in mapping technology, this list of peaks, known humorously as “The Ribus”, represents a new development in our understanding of the mountain areas of the Indonesian archipelago. …

It is hoped that the list of peaks and the website will encourage hikers, whether Indonesian, expatriate or backpacker, to explore this amazing country in more detail and visit incredible areas as yet largely unexplored. …

Check out the site – gunungbagging.com

INTERESTING RIBU FACTS

Highest Ribu: Carstensz Pyramid, Puncak Jaya (4,884 metres elevation and prominence) Papua
Lowest Ribu: Tombia (1,022 metres elevation) Sulawesi Tengah
Most western Ribu: Hulumasen (2,310 metres elevation) Aceh
Most eastern Ribu: Cycloop (2,000 metres elevation) Papua Timur
Most northern Ribu: Seulawah Agam (1,810 metres elevation) Aceh
Most southern Ribu: Wanggameti (1,225 metres elevation) Nusa Tenggara Timur
Province with the most Ribus: Nusa Tenggara Timur (East Nusa Tenggara)

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Summit Stone in Maui volcano

Want to grab a Summit Stone for yourself?

Look for this unique geological feature in Haleakala National Park, Maui. …

It’s very close to the Kapalaoa cabin. (maps)

Climb the trail up past this landmark. Then scramble right up on to the ridge to find the treasure enclosed in two ziplock bags.

What is a Summit Stone?

It’s a hand painted rock by DSD of the SUMMIT STONES & ADVENTURE MUSINGS blog.

There are no real rules regarding where Summit Stones are left to be discovered by future hikers. I place the ones given me in locations of singular natural beauty. Or great spiritual or historical importance.

Book that flight to Maui and go collect this one.

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Rim of Africa trek

A proposed new long hike in South Africa.

Bookings are now open for a guided hike of the first 11 days of the proposed route, one that will eventually require 48 days, 650km.

4 October – 15 October 2010

11 October – 22 October 2010

18 October – 29 October 2010

Be a trail blazer.

… We have opened the first stage of the hike, consisting of 11 days. You will be hiking through mountain wilderness from Pakhuis Pass in the Cederberg to the remarkable Turret Peak in the Koue Bokkeveld, following the length of the Cederberg and the Skurfteberg. …

In association with the Cape Leopard Trust, the Rim of Africa traverses the territory of the icon of freedom – the Cape Leopard. As the trail’s choice of totem, the Cape Leopard asks us to walk with personal integrity and impeccability. How do we approach our lives with compassion and where do we find within ourselves our individual human potential and act accordingly.

Walk the Rim of Africa.