besthike.com

May 23, 2010May 20, 2010

Lower Muley Twist Canyon, Utah

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

My best hike so far on this Southwest U.S.A. road trip was a little visited slot canyon in Capitol Reef National Park.

It’s now high on our list of the best hikes in North America.

Over a 24hr period I saw no hikers, nor did I see any motor vehicles while tenting at nearby Cedar Mesa campground. The trailhead register showed one or two hiking groups a day, on average.

… a deep, narrow, twisting canyon with large alcoves. The canyon offers many opportunities for side trips and exploring.

From 1881 to 1884, the canyon served as a wagon route for Mormon pioneers traveling south toward San Juan County. The canyon was thought to be narrow enough to “twist a mule” hence the name Muley Twist. The Post cutoff trail is marked with rock cairns and signs, but carrying a topographic map is recommended. It is extremely hot in summer and water sources are unreliable; carry adequate water. Use caution in narrow canyons particularly during flash flood season (typically July-September). …

Best season for hike: Spring and Fall

NPS

The first decision to make is trailhead. I chose the Post parking area. That makes for a perfect “loop” hike of about 15mi.

The trail into the wilderness is well marked.

Looking back one last time at my vehicle. Would I be lost in the canyons, never to return?

Actually, I did not get lost. (much)

Stone cairns led me to the signed intersection with the main canyon trail. If confused, you could always ask one of the locals.

Wildflowers are a good reason to hike the desert in the Spring. They were fantastic when I was there.

But the main attraction of Muley are the massive rock alcoves, as impressive as any I’ve seen anywhere.

You can’t help but wonder how this tiny stream could have carved them.

There is enough water to support some BIG trees.

Here’s where the canyon finally narrows enough to “twist a mule”.

Exiting the “narrows”, you should immediately scramble left out of the canyon. I missed it, wandering further.

Checking my Lonely Planet Hiking USA guidebook, I had to backtrack to continue the loop back to my vehicle.

The final section out in the open is much different, but still interesting …

… and colourful.

Next time … Upper Muley Twist Canyon. Or, perhaps a thru hike connecting the two.

See all my photos of Lower Muley Twist Canyon on Flickr.

All in all, I’d call this a perfect hike. Highly recommended, especially if you don’t like crowds.

The Notom to Bullfrog access road is scenic and (normally) quite safe, even for low clearance vehicles. Don’t let access dissuade you from going.

May 22, 2010May 20, 2010

near Valley of Fire, Nevada

trip report by editor Rick McCharles

I set up camp here …

Hopped on my mountain bike, heading for the hills.

Civilization? A long abandoned dam:

I jumped off my bike upon reaching this rock formation, perfect for scrambling.

Atop the highest point, this guy, seemingly a madman, placed a Summit Stone. Will anyone ever find it?

What a terrific outdoor adventure. No hiking guidebook needed.

May 21, 2010May 15, 2010

best hiking desert park – Death Valley

I’ve been many weeks hiking the deserts of the American southwest.

Wonderful.

The best of all, I’m thinking, is Death Valley.

… the lowest, driest, and hottest locations in North America. Badwater, a basin located within Death Valley, is the specific location of the lowest elevation in North America at 282 ft (85.5 m ) below sea level. …

Big, weird and wonderful.

The best hike is Telescope Peak.

Golden Canyon trailhead up to Zabriskie Point would be the signature day hike.

I’m reminiscing about the Valley of Death already.

Amazon – Hiking California’s Desert Parks

May 19, 2010

Adventure Sports Week LOOMS

I’m looking forward to the second annual ASW. Will you be there?

2010 Dates June 4-13

Each June in Northern Idaho, Adventure Sports Week offers 10 days of racing, training, clinics, gear demos and more. ASW features triathlons, mountain biking, trail running, adventure racing, open water kayaking and swimming.

Our venue is located on the shores of Lake Pend Oreille at Farragut State Park.

home page

• Schedule of Races

• Registration

• Venue

May 19, 2010May 19, 2010

hiking Navajo Knobs, Utah

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

Though May is reckoned to be the best month to hike Capitol Reef, rather than set up a tent I fled to this little “camping cabin“.

Good call. Morning dawned well below zero with plenty of snow on the ground.

The Visitor Center is everyone’s first stop. From there it’s only a few miles to Hickman Bridge trailhead where you have the option of 4 hikes:

• Hickman Bridge
• Rim Overlook
• Navajo Knobs – 9mi return, 1649ft ascent
• Cohab Canyon

These range from “easy” (Hickman Bridge) to “challenging” (The Knobs), ideal for a mixed ability group.

The route is well marked with cairns.

Views are wonderful throughout though there’s not much protection from wind and sun.

Pectols Pyramid is the first highlight of many.

My first rattlesnake ever! (They’ve seen me, but I’ve never seen one of them.)

… Apparently it’s too early in the Spring for this guy. And a Ranger told me they are only very rarely found on this trail.

Was he looking for this guy?

The route climbs parallel with the highway. Here’s the valley far below:

That’s them?

The Navajo Knobs?

A bit of a let down. They’re simply 2 bumps of limestone atop the Waterpocket Fold. The main reason to go the extra miles is to see around the corner. It’s impressive!

I left a Summit Stone atop one Knob, reward for anyone keen enough to get up there.

Rangers were pushing this guidebook: Capitol Reef National Park – The Complete Hiking and Touring Guide.

I used my trusty Lonely Planet Hiking in the USA.

As both a driving tour, and hiking destination, I highly recommend Capitol Reef.

See the rest of my photos from this day hike.

May 18, 2010January 7, 2013

USA hikes with Gorgeous Finales

A good list from divine caroline by Vicki Santillano:

Kalalau Trail, Hawaii
Half Dome, California
Conundrum Creek Trail, Colorado
Bright Angel Trail, Arizona
The Hollywood Trail, California
Mount Riga State Park Trail, Connecticut
OldRag Mountain Hike, Virginia
Raven Cliff Falls Trail, Georgia
Mount Whitney Trail, California

… The ends of these popular hikes can replenish the most tired and weary of walkers and instill an invigorating sense of accomplishment in them. … the more motivation you’ll have to keep walking when the trails get tough …

click through for details and photos of each – Nine U.S. Hikes with Gorgeous Finales

(via Chris Weiss on uncooped who adds Angel’s Landing, Utah)

I’m liking Conundrum Hot Springs.

… located at a staggering 11,200′ within the famous Maroon Bells in the Snowmass wilderness. These steamy pools are 8.5 miles up the Conundrum Creek trail just outside of Aspen. …

May 17, 2010May 15, 2010

Anniversary Narrows, Lake Mead, Nevada

trip report by site editor Rick McCharles

As beautiful a slot canyon as any other on earth.

How could I resist?

That claim made by one of my guidebooks, Afoot and Afield Las Vegas, the best of those I used.

Simple.

Drive to this trailhead. …

An easy 2.5mi out-and-back.

Unfortunately, I didn’t do that.

Instead I parked on the highway, not trusting my low clearance vehicle to make it to the trailhead. This added about 2.5mi to the trip.

En route a couple of hikers told me I was off-route. They could not find the trailhead. (It was there.)

I diverted to the only other possible watercourse, following footprints down a dry creek. It looked feasible.

WRONG.

I circumambulated a minor peak on a scramble soon dubbed the DANGER MINE trail.

There must have been a dozen old mine shafts up there, right to the top of the peak.

Finally I spied hikers far below. On my original, correct route.

Anniversary Narrows are lovely.

Recommended. But another cautionary tale of how easy it is to get lost in the desert. It’s possible to fall into an abandoned mine shaft out there, too.

The crumbling ruins of the mining operation are a historical attraction.

see all my photos from this trip

May 16, 2010May 9, 2010

Facebook is EVIL … alternatives?

This has nothing to do about hiking.

It’s only of interest if you are on Facebook. And disgruntled.

I’ve posted a rant on my personal blog – Rick McCharles – Facebook is EVIL … alternatives?

May 14, 2010May 6, 2010

Monument Valley, Wildcat Trail

Phoenix is more than 300 miles distant. Las Vegas more than 400 miles.

Yet Monument Valley is always packed with tourists, many of them European.

I found the Park badly managed. Perhaps they’ve no need to do better as it’s a must see attraction, as is.

No independent hiking is allowed save one track, Wildcat. The American Southwest had given it an underwhelming review, so my expectations were low.

Turned out I loved it, the only hiker on the trail.

As the sun dropped in the sky, shadows became interesting.

See all my photos from this day hike.

Don’t drive by without doing this hike. Only $5 entrance fee. There’s a rough $10 dry campground at the trailhead. I recall 2 Germans telling me, years ago, that waking up in the morning with Monument Valley outside the window was one of the real highlights of their visit to the Southwest.

Jamie Compos posted an excellent trip report with photos. They were followed on the walk by a “tourist dog”, looking for handouts.

And check Hank Leukart’s hilarious winter visit to Monument Valley – Without Baggage – A surreal, Native American dream.